Roy vd M.

Right..! I could use one of those (jig), thanks for the idea Furthermore, nice idea to make your own rotary table. Wheel hubs look nice too, this should enable orderly rigging. Do you already know how to make the tyres?

Windshield and horn are excellently represented. Dit you create a custom cutting tool for the horn?

@JeroenS yes, unless they break... happened to me once with hand brake cable. By merely touching one of both broken parts, it broke once more. Spent time: 47 hours

Glad to see the great progress in this topic since I last visited it. It seems you have managed to retain the extremely high quality of other builds as well as this one. Watching this work in progress makes me long for reprising my work on the Delage 15-S-8 I plan to do this summer, after finishing the Miniart bus. Oh yes, and: beautiful headlights!

Thanks Nick, yes they do! 44. And sometimes they use mould lines to add detail... I have to pay attention what to scrape away and what to ignore. 45. Example of a beautifully moulded part and the challenges it offers. Micro saw is almost a requirement. 46. IRL these leaf springs did not have these 'seams'. Some leaf springs did, but these did not. So I'll have to scrape and file them smooth. 47. Shock absorber. 47. Most difficult part to remain intact, is this part of the differential housing with on-moulded cables. Very fragile. Removing the moulding tabs cost me patience, energy and thought. 48. This is only one part, beautifully designed. 49. And the rear axle subassembly consisting of 9 parts, ready. You can see how everything was designed to fit perfectly (after some TLC in filing / sanding). 49. Photo etch rings for the exhaust, pressed flat. 50. Safe for replacements in brass / copper, 91 kit parts. Spent time: 28,5 hours.

Looking great so far!

Thanks Moa, thanks Nick for following... it's been awhile 43. Large update this time, as I spent 2 hours and 50 minutes preparing and joining 15 parts, largely seen here. After careful cleaning / deburring, it all fits together astonishingly well. Kudos to Miniart for that part. These photos make me spot flaws, like the one regarding the crank support. Once noticed, I tend to correct them. Ok perhaps not as grand an update as I thought... but as much time as these works do cost me, it's a great way to spend that time! I'm having fun. Spent time: 19 hours.

Thanks Moa, Harvey and Alan. Alan, these kits are here to stay for a bit longer, in the end when you'll have finalized your works in progress, it'll be a joy to start one of these 28. For those who intend to build this kit... don't forget drilling 4 chassis holes (it's easily overlooked on the instructions). Ideal diameter is 0,75mm. 29. After the big cleanup, sorting parts. 30. Applying liquid poly by paintbrush, glueing one side. 31. Aligning the chassis on a perfectly flat surface. 42. The result thus far, with dryfitted engine. Spent time: 16 hours.

Looking good and going forward gloriously.

My heart skipped a beat when I saw this, remembering all the research we did and the images we found, resembling this so much. For the sake of extreme excitement, it's not a bad thing after all to not follow a forum section for some months... you present us with the true shape of this beautiful car, I'm positive.

I have the Quad gun truck (Gaz AAA), a Kolibri heli-plane that I won't build, a Mercedes-Benz 170 and a bulldozer in the stash... given that this stash of mine never features many kits (probably 20 or so) that shows how much appreciate Miniart as a kit maker. There's not a strict deadline, we're supposed to finalize it in 6 months but if that won't work no problem Well regarding checking every part in the box, unfortunately there's some truth in that. Although this work on the valve pushrods is, I expect, incidental and it will be a 95% OOB build, each and every part needs to be cleaned from mould lines. Given that the plastic is ultra soft, this is a project of patience. Thanks Harvey, I'll come and have a look in your Fiat 806 topic soon. Very curious to see how you're doing there! Alan I can imagine, but it's not all hunky-dory... you'll find out by reading this thread because I tend to describe everything that goes ok as well as everything that fails / goes bad / is detrimental in any way. I'd like to summarize the build thus far and the feeling I have regarding it, by saying that 'there's a beautiful model inside that box, somewhere, to be found and managed using plenty of effort'. 15. Homemade tool (lathe-turned) to center the nut holes before punching the nuts. 22. Many parts of the kit have flash. Yes, what you see below really is flash. Usually easy to remove (although the plastic is soft so you'll have to be careful) but sometimes... not! 26. A lot of work, but the pushrods subassemblies are done. 27. A dryfit is made On an average computer screen this photo shows the engine true to scale. Cilinder valve 2 is about to tumble. All springs have the same amount of windings. Macro: Spent time: 12 hours

You mean the Miniart kit? Or do you mean the FWD B-type truck? Moa, progress is looking good! Unfortunately this topic is still in the Aircraft section, best to send a PM to Mike, he'll surely move it.

Hey thanks for following guys! Brian, no idea but I think the Miniart kit probably has around 800 parts. Jeroen... did you build this too? I haven't been on this part of the forum for quite some time, having been involved in other projects... guess I'm a bit outdated as regards forum-info Thanks for following. Yeah Miniart... gotta love it (hate is totally possible and acceptable too though). 5. Checking the valve system, to verify whether Miniart designed this the right way. 6. It appears to be wrong in three ways. Summary: the indicated nut should be higher, the springs aren't correct for several reasons and one spring is way too high. 13. Hour of testing makes for this result. The rings ('nuts') should be smaller and straighter but other than that, it looks better. Bestede tijd: 3 uur

Ha it seems this bus is becoming a popular subject of modelling! As announced, today I started the build. See here the build report. Regarding photos, there are a lot on Flickr regarding the recent restoration. Many restoration pics too. It seems they did a lot of research, so as for my own build I'll confide in their choices. Have a look at their photo stream: https://www.flickr.com/photos/ltmuseum/

For a group build on another forum, we're to build a model by the renowned kit producer Miniart. This company makes kits of high accuracy, often exceeding a part count of 500 and sometimes approaching the 'magical number' of 1,000 parts. We'll submerge both in luxury and annoyance, for sure... in brief, adventure. I participate using the recently issued LGOC double decker bus (B-type) of the beginning of the 20th century. This build report is a summary of the report elsewhere, leaving out stories, technical stuff, building tips and caveats and replacing them with short descriptions for enhanced easy reading. Quite a few sprues... my hand is 1:1-size. 1. The sprues are first assorted and hung in order, for easy finding and to prevent damage. 2. Holes for the push rods need to be drilled (they are 1,05mm. but should be 1,3mm.), otherwise they won't fit. 3. Under 1. you see a dryfit of the pushrods. Under 2. an ugly seam, caused by cement glue. 4. Here that seam is scraped clean, after drying. To clean up the heads, costs time and energy. Very fun kit so far, notwithstanding it taking energy and time. Spent time: 2 hours

Following this, as by coincidence this Friday I’ll start on the Miniart 1/35 equivalent of this kit, for a group build! Good luck!

Thanks for your reactions fellows! @JohnHaa best way to make a glass nose like that is probably vacuforming. It's not that hard, I think I showed how I do it in my Dornier 17 topic. @Bigglesof266 it was a delight to try something out of my comfort zone.. that also applies to the oil canning effect. I realise I have not shown that too well on the above photos. Here a close-up:

Thanks for the support guys! Some remarks and own perceptions led to slight amendments (6 in total) regarding the build. Cutting decals (rudder) and reapplying wash: Sanding stuff, filling holes... Airbrushing once more, some details. Next, correcting some green overspray on the yellow. 15 layers of paint, I was begging the gods to finally make this opaque. It wasn't even clearly visible but all the more difficult to fully remove. Bad, bad yellow paint... And finally, isolators on the antenna. Dots of aged white paint. End photos can be seen here. Thanks to everyone who has followed, commented and liked this niche topic! Total spent build time: 77 hours.

To read the build report, see here. Point of view:

This baby's ready. Some end progress pictures to follow soon, but I wanted to share the end photos (safe cutting the marking decals near the rudder).

For reference: the oil canning effect on a Yokosuka Ginga. Before the final step in the process (getting rid of the sharp edges and contrasts): As well as the last step having taken place: Before and after: Symmetrical workflow: Masking sharp 'corners', you can use a punch & die. Nacelle to the right already masked. In front with, behind without OC. 84. Propellers in dryfit. But unless you look closely, you just can't see the effect (lol): Several things yet to be done... but approaching the end of this build.

Thanks guys, I really appreciate your comments! They always work motivational for me Taping... Tamiya XF70. Starting the oil canning (OC). You'll really have to look close to notice: Zoomed: In action View in daylight. More contrast for the outer part (test). This looks better so I'll bring them in correspondence with one another, tending towards the outer part. Zoom-in: Meanwhile the final details are not forgotten. Tyres: Vallejo Model Air 57 (black) with some white, ratio 20:1. Propellers: Vallejo model Air 71.038 (camouflage brown with 71.003 (scarlet red), ratio 10:3. Spent time thus far: 58 hours.

I'm glad there's finally a start to some activity in this topic... a few posts here and there, likes and more views. Good! I understand this is not your everyday BF109 or Hurricane, so I appreciate the rising interest. Priming and sanding. Night fighter clothing... Sanding the black, as there were many dust particles drawn onto the highly sticky black paint. Left wing (=right on photo) sanded. And the first phase of the oil canning. Tension rises! How would the final looks of this plane become? Atypical preshading cloud-style. Next: after varnishing, applying green paint for the top half of the plane.

Thanks John! Not sure what you mean by 'primer thread' but I hope it's a compliment Talking about primer... ready to be primed!!

Milling the exhaust holes. Making the oil cooler exhaust opening is especially rewarding. The engines in full sight. With cowlings on... reduced visibility of the engines. Ok no comment haha But it was fun detailing the engines. Time for one more feel-good dryfit before the bonnets are glued on.