Roy vd M.

I really like those mini-tutorials Dan, reminds me of your epic Talbot-Lago build. The pins within the wooden ring are dots of paint I presume?

Highly interesting exchange of points of views regarding sanding / polishing lacquer vs clear coat. Following along!

As I mentioned before, don’t buy a 150. You’ll regret it before too long; it really is too small for your purposes. It’s the kind of machine a watchmaker uses.

Thanks guys! Meanwhile I've spent approximately 60 hours of research on the tyres and wheels. I'll spare you the details and will get to the conclusions. The 1927 wheel had 70 spokes (28+28+14) rather than the current 60 spokes (20+20+20). All 1927 tyres had a fictional diameter of 30 inch. The markings read "30 x 4.75". However, the tyre was moreover marked (in smaller print) " actual size 31.8 dia" so that the real diameter of the tyres were 31,8 inch. This corresponds with extensive photogrammetry I performed on several 1927 photographs. That photogrammetry led to the conclusion that the tyres were approximately 31,6 inch in diameter (=not fully pressurised tyres). Furthermore, the wheels were 21 inches rather than 19 inches (=current size). Rim width was 4 inches rather than 4,5 inches. Tyre width was 4,75 inches. Revs Institute has been informed of these findings. Hopefully they will decide to install 70 spokes 21 inch wheels rather than the current 60 spokes 19 inch wheels; and hopefully 31,8 tyres can be produced. They are not currently produced, as the size has been unknown/forgotten and literature on the Delage only stated the (incorrect) 30 inch size. The difference is substantial (starting with the correct -large- wheels and then switching a few times from small to large): So the wheels and tyres will have to be drawn in Fusion 360 once more.

Yes why don’t you start reading some literature on the subject and then decide whether or not it’s for you. If you want I can send you a copy of a novice manual for milling and lathe-machining.

It's very difficult to advise on this matter. I don't even know whether I'd advise you, at all, to purchase a lathe. You'll have to make a large investment unless you'll fetch a very good deal second-handed. But you'll start gathering add-ons etc. along the way. Or you'll make them. And once you have purchased a lathe you'll want a milling machine... look at my situation. I had a milling machine on top of the lathe, but decided to purchase a separate bed for the mill only weeks after my original installation. It's addictive to purchase extras. I'm not sure you're at this moment ready for such an adventure, but you know best of course, as you know yourself. Explanation of lathe and extras: For basic tools, I'd recommend beside the lathe itself: - Collet chuck (5E) - Collets (5F) - Accessories for the tailstock (5G) if they aren't already included - Cutting tools (5K) that, by the way, don't need to be Proxxon (but they should fit) With that selection of tools, most work can be done comfortably.

I think I answered most of these questions, if not all, in my previous three posts, from here: Please also follow the hyperlinks to the contents in the Delage topic.

Each 1/8 build is much welcomed on the forum. Moreover it's good to see you back Roy!

Not sure where that is not perfect..!

Here a list of accessories I purchased for my lathe: Here an overview of the total costs for lathe + mill. I think at least 2/3 was what I paid for lathe + accessories. As regards precision work on small scale, this is an almost-finished carburettor I made for a Volkswagen Beetle in 1/24 and for which I made use of the lathe in several subparts.

I realized I only answered one question. Trying to type as fast as possible (I'm off in a few minutes), here we go. In modelling, if you want to do something as nice as possible, it's never easy. Including work on the lathe, which in itself is not so hard. You'll make errors and will need to restart. I'm not sure what you mean by 'floating effect' as I have not read all content of the last posts. Seeing these buttons I do know you'd have to make them in more than one part, to have optimal result. Yes, several. It's a good idea to read this post I wrote about that: Don't purchase the FD150, it's way too small and it will annoy you that you'll only be able to do the tiniest of jobs. The main difference between the 150, 250 and 400 is size. You'll have a 'work width' of 15, 25 resp. 40 centimeters. Beside that the 400 is stronger, makes use of larger chucks and has more possibilities overall. The larger your lathe the less limited you are. Precision-wise there should be few differences. I expect less so than with Fusion 360 and 3D-prints, depending on the machine. If you buy a Chinese lathe you'll have to realise there's more settings you'll have to manage. You'll have to install and, in a way, customize it, whereas the Proxxon is ready for use. As with everything, you'll first have to learn the machine before you can use it. I read a book and watched Youtube-videos. In the end I didn't think it was that hard to learn, but then again I didn't think Fusion 360 was too hard to learn. It's a matter of spending 10-15 hours intensively learning the software / the lathe and then practicing. If you think you're not going to do that.. best not to buy the lathe. If you feel like learning this beautiful tool, for sure you'll enjoy it. If you're at one point in time in the vicinity of Amsterdam (for whatever reason), please be invited and we could spend a few hours working the lathe. After that you'll know how to use it and what kind of lathe you need / want.

In my Delage topic I present my large. I’m glad I chose it. I originally thought I would not need that size (but just to be sure... it’s a once in a lifetime purchase... I’d better opt for that one rather than the 250). Not long after, Codger encouraged me to change scale to 1/8 and THEN I found out that the 400 would enable me to turn the Delage’s tyres. But only just. With the 250 that would not have been possible. Plenty more to be said, but this is the basis. I know several modellers (also on this forum) who first chose their lathe too small or too Chinese. Before too soon they regretted their purchase. But for 1/24 scale the 250 is excellent. Ask yourself if you’ll never wish to create something in 1/8. In my opinion I think you will. I have been wondering often, while reading this thread, why you haven’t started scratch building cars like this in 1/8. That way you really get an eyecatcher; I feel you’re more than capable of doing something like this.

I can see where they're coming from though. Lovely improvement.

@Graeme Studying a video of the engine being cranked up it shows that at any given time at least three springs are decompressed and a maximum of one is compressed. Therefore, Miniart's representation is wrong (=two springs would be compressed on both sides of the engine simultaneously, so a total of four, whereas that should be a total of two out of eight). Beside that, as you can see on the above video, the positions of springs / bolts are wrong, as I described before in my post as quoted by you.

Looks like I need to follow this Great progress so far Wayne!

Looks great @Torbjörn Hanö, how did you paint / make the b2273 sheet on the bonnet? First black paint, then sanding? And upper railing = copper / brass wire? Or did you use the kit part?

Really like what you did to that engine. Nice smooth body too.

There's a three people audience.

Regarding Delage project: I'm awaiting some final answers as regards true tyre size. Drawing of the wheels is wrong so I'll have to draw again. Not only tyres but also the wheels, which are incorrect even on the #1 chassis. Should be 70 spokes, current wheels are 60 spokes. Some exciting research results, will post in due time. Regarding the inlet slots... not sure which method I suggested. If they are only slots (rather than louvres), you could photo etch them; but it's a lot of work for a little part. However you could consider it as an educational exercise. Never too old to learn new techniques, right? 2D drawing of the part would be very easy in Qcad for example.

Hopefully this is clear enough. It's 3 pages A4 so I have to photograph it. If a better version is required I'll photograph it tomorrow in daylight.

Good to see you back on this monster project Olivier. Recent corrections look very promising.

Looks amazing Harvey. Blue/black question also regards the Delage. That car too had definitely black wheels in 1927.

Thanks for all the likes gents! Before making the tyre colour choice I had searched for photographs and videos of the time and although I have found some evidence that some buses were fitted with slightly lighter grey tyres, most of what I saw resembled dark grey c.q. black. In the thread you refer to (thank you for that, interesting read), Black Knight -whose opinion I respect- says this: Hard rubber solid tyres were vulcanised to the wheel rim and could range from a dark grey to black. In the referenced thread, Das Abteilung says: Period photos suggest from colour contrast that the majority of pneumatic tyres in WW1 were still grey, but that solid tyres were black. Understandable as the carbon black increased the tensile strength 10-12 times, a considerable advantage for solid tyres. The tyres on the LGOC B-type bus were hard rubber solid tyres, so anything between dark grey to black should suit it. Also the new tyres (modern restauration) are of dark grey-blackish colour. So I'm quite confident that the tyres are of approximately time period-correct colour. Here's a video of London traffic in 1914 to 1918. Lots of LGOC buses in view all the time, the city had around 2500 of them buzzing around. There are motorcars with white tyres which clearly differ from the LGOC tyres. Some LGOC's seem to have different coloured rear tyres (a tad lighter grey) but most of them appear to have dark grey tyres. Well you can safely use micro saws (for example sold through Radubstore.com), it just takes a bit longer... but you'll have a bigger chance of success! Really a modeller who builds Miniart kits can't realistically live without micro saws I think. Or they can, just in the way they can do without cutting mat. Or acrylic paint. Or an airbrush compressor (just use an inflated rubber tyre). So I'd invest in a few of those if you don't have them already. Lovely model by the way, that D7, I also have the one with blade in my stash. Not sure if I'll ever build it though...

Thanks guys for your kind replies! @Biggu I can't say the plastic is very easily processed. The thinnest / longest parts are cut using a micro saw. Most other parts can be used using a high quality sprue cutter such as the one referred to by @Torbjörn Hanö. Regular sprue cutters will destroy the parts. Because I prefer the kit parts to be ultra smooth (my fingernails act as judges), after cutting I file them and only then do I sand them. The thin long parts such as linkages can be more easily replaced by copper or brass wire. If you're not after perfection in smoothness, things go much easier and faster. I'll never forget spending one hour (=one hour!) cleaning one extremely delicate part. I understand your frustration. 108. Weathering still required on radiator and wheels. Spent time: 78H.

Took me about a month to go through all pages and posts of the original thread. The fact that I did, while having no plans to build this Pocher model, says it all. I learned a lot going through it. Even if you used 5% of its knowhow it’d be worthwhile. Remember, it’s there and free to behold. Other sites would charge you $ for similar or lesser info. That being said, you’ve made a decent start at this equally complex and rewarding kit.