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Trenton guy

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Everything posted by Trenton guy

  1. That back seat console was vertical to make room in the forward fuselage for the Navy style retractable refueling probe. It wasn't there on Air Force Phantoms because they had a fuselage top receptacle for the flying boom refueling system favored by the USAF, leaving room for a more normal console. Built the Airfix Phantom back in the day when it was new. Found it to be a good kit by the standards of the day. Great to se one still around
  2. Upon further reflection and o troll through the Internet photos, it seems as though it might be possible to use F-16 gear and gear bays, if you really want aT-50 and I do. Should not come as a great surprise. The T-50 doesn't just resemble an F-16, General Dynamics/Locheed Martin was heavily involved in the design of the T-50. Might have to acquire an Academy 1/48 T-50 for reference and an F-16 for parts. Pretty good return for Academy on a simple little kit.
  3. Oh dear, where's the landing gear?
  4. Colourcoats is a favorite of mine too. If you can find a way to ship it to the US you will be a hero.
  5. While I believe strongly in supporting my local hobby shop, the only answer to the very high cost of high quality Japanese kits (ie, the Hasegawa B-24) is HLJ - Hobby Link Japan. Here I the States, I save 50 to 60 percent, even after taking account of postage. Postage from Japan to here is actually less than from Hannants, provided you choose the SAL shipping method (some sort of space available air mail). Parcels come in two to three weeks. Now the dollar is very strong against the yen right now, but I suspect the pound sterling is as well. The HLJ website is very easy to use. If you want a cheap (relatively) high quality B-24 then give it a try.
  6. Mr Surfacer 500 is my filler of choice. I use little plastic microbrushes (the orange handled ones) or toothpicks to apply. It can be used for gaps large and small. It has no real structural strength so I back it with super glue when the gaps are large. It can be wiped away,even when cured using Mr Color acrylic lacquer thinner. It's alcohol based so that should work as well. Sometimes it is advantageous to sand it. It sands really well and doesn't clog your sandpaper so the sand paper lasts a lot longer. It shrinks a little on drying. I just apply several layers before before wiping or sanding when I need to fill deeply. I'll never go back to putty. It is a marvelous product. By the way, it thickens over time. You can thin it with the same Mr Color thinner but I leave it thick and open a new bottle. Sometimes the super thickened 500 is superior ( ie, big gaps or thick layers). I agree that the 1000 product is more like a primer than a filler - still useful for very tiny cracks such as those between a canopy and the surrounding fuselage. No, my real name is not Fred Gunze. I just think it is a great product.
  7. Probably the best weathering I have ever seen, not overdone but very realistic. Thanks for giving us a look at it.
  8. AC-47's and A-1 Skyraiders were based together at Pleiku AFB during 1968. C-130's and C-7's were regular visitors - eyewitness report.
  9. Given that the Garret nacelles share a sprue with the wings I doubt that we will see a T.1 or a T.2 and that's a shame. Magna engines and nose do seem to fit well. I think I'll wait a couple of months on A Model and then have at it with the Magna parts.
  10. Why? It's a great question. I, too, have the book and am just about to use it to try to mix up some Light and Dark Mediterrean Blue using Modelmaster paints; an exercise made necessary by the embargo on the international shipment of my paint of choice, Xtracolor . Yes, it's that Trenton. I would expect an RAF Museum publication to be quite accurate but confirmation is always welcome. Bill
  11. I always thought that X-396 was way to dark. Perhaps the lighter one is the long needed correction. I would go over to the Hannants website and buy one right away, if I wasn't an American. Apparently, possession of even one tinlet of Xtracolor by an American poses an existential threat to civil aviation and ocean going vessels and so their purchase is absolutely prohibited.
  12. Reportedly, the T-34A/B and the T-37C will come in the same box.
  13. Out in the States again. Got my second on Feb 13th. No defects this time. I'll be needing more based on the great news from Freightdog . I can't wait. My plan to try the same thing with off cuts from never built Magna kits now scrapped.
  14. Not sure for the A-7, but the inside of the flaps and slats of the A-4 Skyhawk were red so be careful with assumptions.
  15. Built mine from the original Hasegawa release. Hasegawa kits come with a seperate engine compartment. Two versions are provided that are of two different lengths, presumably to account for two different nose lengths found in Hurricanes. The Mk II being about 4 or 5 inches longer. The length of fuselage piece that extends from fire wall to tail is the same in both Mk I and Mk II kits. Unfortunately, the length difference between the two marks of Hurricane wasn't in the engine compartment. It was between the back of the engine compartment and the cockpit, the so-called "accessories " compartment. This can be seen very clearly in photos of the two variants, the spacing of the dzus fasteners results in three even gaps for the Mk II but two equal and one shorter on the Mk I. Hence, the shorter if the two engine compartments provided by Hasegawa is correct for all mark of Hurricane, the longer being incorrect for any hurricane. The common fuselage is correct for the Mk II but needs to be shortened for a Mk I. About the thickness of the plastic bulkhead at the front of the fuselage seems right. If you do that and mate the two resulting sections you will find that the wing will not seat properly. That is because Hawkers lengthened the forward wing fairing on the MkII so that it would reach the pushed forward engine. Hasegawa supplies this Mk II faired wing in all versions of their kit. You just have carefully sand back the front fairing until everything fits ( reversing the process undertaken by Hawkers all those years ago. And there you have it, the easiest way to an accurate Hurricane. How you feel about corrugations is, of course, a personal matter. I'm quite happy with mine. A final note, it is really quite amazing how few modern plans or publications correctly show this basic difference between the two Marks of Hurricane. It was all laid out quite clearly in the IPMS Magazine in the early 1990's, which is where I got the information from for my Mk I Hurricane . Good luck with yours.
  16. I wonder if Airfix will just give up, at some point. What chance does a 50 year old tool have against a brand new Revell item coming out at virtually the same time. Built mine around 1970 and still have an unbuilt one purchased in 1980. This speculation about the release date reminds me of an old New Yorker cartoon that I keep posted on the wall next to the phone. The picture is of a man holding a phone and obviously discussing a potential appointment . Tha caption: "No, Tuesday isn't good for me. How about never, does never work for you?" If, on the other hand, if tonyot is right about the undercover project , I'll believe to if it will help it to materialize.
  17. On a sad note, Randy "Duke"Cunningham, one of the crew members of Showtime 100 , later became a US Congressman and went to jail for corruption. Kind of takes the luster of the scheme for me.
  18. In my opinion, you can't beat Modelmaster II . You have to be careful because regular Modelmaster is much grainier, leaves a rough finish and it is very hard ( maybe impossible ) to cut a fine freehand edge with it. Modelmaster II , on the other hand, leaves a very smooth finish and sprays to a very fine freehand edge. Fortunately ,most WWII colors (RAF, USAAF, Luftwaffe, etc) are in the Modelmaster II line. Modelmaster tends to feature USAF Southeast Asia, European I and other colors of that generation ( they came out in the 1970's). In the US they can always be found in seperate racks in the Hobby Shop. Modelmaster colors are identified with four digit numbers that begin with 17(ie, 1706 or 1726). Modelmaster II shades begin with the number 2 (ie, 2054, RAF Dark Earth or 2110, Italian Sand). I noticed the difference between the two lines when II came out 25 years ago. It continues to amaze me that Testors has never reformulated the original colors to match the clearly superior Modelmaster II.
  19. Photos taken at Nuremberg tend to confirm my earlier suggestion that the Revell Halifax molds were optimized for the Mk III with its slightly wider engine nacelles. The general aspect of the Nuremberg photos look very much like a Halifax unlike the "oh no!, I can't believe they did that" appearance of the Merlin Halifax. The overwing fairings remain and are still not correct for either version but not so much so that the model does not look like a Halifax. I think I shall be satisfied to make this one with a minimum of angst.
  20. Superb as always. Don't ever stop building for publication. Your articles are always worth the price of the publication . Ihadn't planned on acquiring the Valiant Fw-189 book but know I shall have to do so.
  21. Here in Trenton, New Jersey, I'm using Testors Modelmaster "rattle can" lacquer no. 28105 "Grabber Orange" overlaid with Tamiya TS-65 Pearl Orange. I've tested it on a spare wing and it looks good. I suspect this isn't much help in the UK as Modelmaster spray lacquer is probably as difficult to come by over there as Xtracolor is over here and for the same reasons. I understand that some not very knowledgeable bureaucrats believe that a tiny tinlet of enamel presents a mortal threat to a giant airliner. They don't understand hazardous materials or airplanes very well but they are calling the shots. How will I ever lay my hands on that light and dark Mediterranean blue? Sigh!!!
  22. Great job, I have been working on the same additions to the Hobby Boss kit. I would have forgotten the the inner wheel well doors so thanks for the assist. Spectacular job on the wheel wells, especially considering the scale.
  23. The plans that I have are the K. A. Merrick plans. The same ones you mention. The major joint that I referred to is at dihedral break. There is a cover plate that runs from the leading to the trailing edge at that point. Looking at the upper plan views of both marks you will observe that the Hercules nacelle joins the leading edge at the outboard edge of the chordwise cover plate while the Merlin nacelle joins it at the inboard edge suggesting that the Hercules nacelle is 2X the width of that cover plate wider. Something similar can be seen at the inboard edge of the outer nacelles where another cover plate is found. The lower views of both nacelles suggest that this extra width carries all the way back. Hope this explation is a little clearer.
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