Jump to content

Trenton guy

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Trenton guy

  1. The kit has clear? Resin aft canopies and resin underwing radar with racks. Somewhat accounts for a very high price,  no matter how you slice it or who you blame. Sadly the resin “clear” parts are about as cleat as a frosted shower compartment door. Great if you want privacy but that, alas, is not the purpose of a canopy. Cannot be polished up. I tried. My advise is save your money. I fell for two.

    • Like 2
  2. Built the Italeri example in French Indo-China markings. Nice kit. Only real difficulty I can recall is setting the correct dihedral on the wings. The kit joint is very loose and so doesn’t give you much help. The Revell kit is the Italeri one reboxed. I believe Special Hobby once promised  a B/A-26 but it never came to pass.

    • Thanks 2
  3. Tried to build this with the RVHP kit. They had some nice schemes. The otherwise very nice vacform canopy was too high, stuck up above the fuselage behind. There was no way to drop the sill or reduce the height of the canopy at the bottom and still maintain accuracy so I tried building up the fuselage depth be hind it. Just couldn’t get rid of the swayback look. Gave up and substituted an Anigrand fuselage. At this point I had one very expensive Sabreliner. Kept the RVHP wings because they had the slats. Only problem there was that the slat tracks on one wing did not align at all with the recesses in the wing. The other wing was fine. Removed the slat tracks and replaced them with plastic strip on the offending wing. There were a lot of them and each had to be perfectly aligned. Life is too short!!!  All worked out in the end but where were you when I needed you SWORD?


    will undoubtedly get one for a more stress free build and without needing to take out a second mortgage (already on the wish list at the big H). Wonder if the OBSCURECO resin F-100 wing could be used if slats are lacking. I believe that the Sabreliner wing was based on that of the F-100.

  4. Hasegawa decals respond very well to very strong setting solution. I have the final remnants of a very old bottle of PollyS setting solution and it works a treat. The stuff literally dissolves Microscale decals so it is really strong. Solvaset or DACO strong might be a current equivalent. ( I haven’t actually tried them since I still have some of the long gone PollyS product).

  5. One thing to consider when talking about these kind of issues. The studies that support these kinds of governmental or quasi-governmental regulatory actions are based on occupational exposures (ie, continuous significant exposure 8 hours a day, 5 days a week). The typical Modeller experiences nothing like that, and exposure is the issue. I have been modelling for 70 years and have used nothing but enamels, except for some recent use of acrylic lacquers in the wake of the disappearance of my beloved Modelmaster. At 80 years young, I am feeling just fine thank you.


    Regulations can be inflexible things (I know, I wrote and enforced them for all of my working life). Of necessity they look at worst case scenarios. Carving out exceptions for less hazardous uses quickly becomes administratively and technically complex, so we paint with a broad brush and the modeller’s occasional use gets swept in with the guy in the industrial spray booth.


    Maybe I should quit while I am ahead but I won’t. This kerfuffle reminds of the silliness over air shipment of enamel hobby paints. Now enamel paints do pose a significant fire hazard. The most common method of mitigating such hazard is small quantities in small containers. That approach is taken to mitigate hazard when such materials must be handled in industrial settings. Without prudent approaches such as that, it would not be possible to manufacture electronic devises indoors ( there is some really bad stuff in your cell phone). Can you imagine a better example of that kind of mitigation than a few tiny tins of Xtracolor in an airmail package.

    • Like 3
  6. Recommend you remove the pins as you have then, one wing at a time, glue upper and lower. Then, immediately, trap the wing between a very flat surface and a very heavy book. After the first is cured, repeat again with the other wing. This approach has worked for me in the past.m


  7. Got my two about a week ago from the e bay seller in Ukraine. Paid $32.95 each. Without bothering to do the currency conversions, it seems like a somewhat better price. Shipping was a little better too, at least to the USA.


    Noticed a thank you to the late and missed Mel Bromley of S&M Models in the acknowledgments. I wonder............

    • Thanks 1
  • Create New...