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Volksjager

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Posts posted by Volksjager

  1. 18 hours ago, The Spadgent said:

    Fantastic paint work. I’m about to start my version of this and chewed through your thread this morning for inspiration . 🙌

    a stunning looking aircraft bought to life beautifully. Bravo. 
     

    Johnny

     

    Many thanks and hopefully this one can inspire your build. Though I love the interceptor, the command recon is just so sleek & sexy. I built the recon version in 1/72 which may also give you some idea's

     

    13 hours ago, Joao Augusto said:

    Beautiful Ki-46, congrats!

     

    Many thanks, much appreciated

    • Thanks 1
  2. On 8/24/2023 at 5:48 AM, Jesus Dapena said:

    Volksjager:

     

    Thank you for your response, but I am still confused.

     

    My understanding is that, for the upper surfaces (and rudder), you (1) painted with light olive green; (2) applied mask; (3) painted with very thin black; (4) removed mask; (5) painted lightly with the light olive green "to blend".

     

    Then, for the lower surfaces, you said that you (1) painted with duck egg; (2) applied mask; (3) painted with very thin black; (4) removed mask; (5) painted lightly with the duck egg "to blend".  OK, this procedure for the lower surfaces made perfect sense:  It was the same as for the upper surfaces, but using duck egg instead of light olive green in steps (1) and (5).

     

    But then in the main text you said, "Lastly some tan through a mask and they were done.", which threw me off completely.  Where did the tan come in?

     

    Your reply to my query for clarification ("The control surface mask was used for the black, duck egg and the tan, then removed after the spraying was complete") left me still lost!  Does this mean that the 5-step procedure was carried out THREE separate times (once with light olive green in steps 1 and 5; another time with duck egg in steps 1 and 5; and a 3rd time with tan in steps 1 and 5)?  If this was the case, the 5-step procedure using the light olive green was used for the upper surfaces and rudder (OK), the 5-step procedure using the duck egg was used for the undersurfaces (OK), but the 5-step procedure using the tan was used for ... what?   🤔

     

    No worries, sounds like my inital reply just made the whole thing a lot more confusing. My apologies.

     

    From memory for this kit ( and what I do most of the time) is to paint the base coat colour (for this kit either the light olive green or Duck egg) then apply the control surface mask. Then I apply a very thin black for the shadow, remove the mask, then overpaint with a light application of the base layer to blend in (again either light olive green or duck egg in this case). The final layer is a tan colour and I spray this through a "splatter mask" which I have made from a thinning a scotch brite pad. This is the mask I am referring to:

     

    PAD_HEAVY_DUTY_SCOURING_86_A.jpg

    When you make one of these thinner, it gives a very random splatter mask that I spray paint through. It gives a very fine, random pattern & adds some life and subtle colour variation to the painted surface. 

     

    I can take some pics of my process if you would prefer?

  3. 23 hours ago, Jesus Dapena said:

    You said, for the  undersurfaces of the ailerons:

     

    "Before I could mark up the underside I had to paint in the ailerons as I only did the topside yesterday. I used Duck Egg from SMS, then applied the control surface mask, a very thin black, then Duck egg once again to blend. Lastly some tan through a mask and they were done."

     

    I understood that up to and including the second duck egg, but what sort of mask did you use for that final tan?

     

    Sorry, I should have been more clear. The control surface mask was used for the black, duck egg and the tan, then removed after the spraying was complete.  

    • Like 1
  4. A long time between posts over here on Britmodeller!

     

    This is the venerable Airfix Fw-190A kit in 1/24 scale. It certainly has a reputation, and with good reason, but I have really enjoyed this build from start to finish.

     

    I actually have had this in the stash since about 1998 but never has the courage to tackle it. Flash forward to 2023, I decided enough was enough, let's just build it and have fun! If I bugger it up, well I learned something and will move on. In the end, this was one of the most enjoyable builds I have done. In fact it started a stash purge, with half being sold off & replaced with 1/32 & 1/24 kits. 

     

    Special thanks to @Bonkin, his build here on Britmodeller was the inspiration for me to give this a go & to Peter @airscale for creating a brilliant set of 3d printed wheels for the kit, something the kit really needed. 

     

    The kit suffered from a very flat main wing & a warped fuselage, which all was bent back into shape via a dunk in hot water & a wooden main spar was epoxied in place to keep the dihedral in the wings. The cockpit was upgraded, using the Airscale Fw190A decal for the IP, his 1/24 Luftwaffe belts & luftwaffe placards throughout. The landing gear was detailed and the bays were completed as the kit only supplied the back of the wells and the covers that conceals the engine. I also found the engine didn't protrude from the cowl for me like others have reported, I did reduce the length of the fan though and trimmed a little off the engine bearers, just to be sure.  All paints are SMS acrylic Lacquers in the classic scheme of RLM 74 & 75 over 76. All markings are painted on, other than the stencils, which are the Airfix original decals. 

     

    The aircraft depicted is Wrk Nr. 2676,  Coded KM + EY of III/SKG10 based at El Aouiana, Tunisia. I found about 8 pictures of the aircraft when it was found abandoned at the airfield & all of these helped with adding the appropriate details. By no means is this a perfect rendition of this Butcher Bird, but I am pretty happy with it. 

     

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    • Like 66
    • Thanks 4
  5. On 7/24/2023 at 5:15 PM, 2996 Victor said:

    Hi,

     

    I've just caught up with this build and wanted to say how great it is: the finish is astounding with the variations you've incorporated into the upper surface camo and the undersurface NMF. Fabulous! The fabric effect on the flying surfaces is a brilliant idea, something I definitely want to try out.

     

    I've been looking for a 1/48 Ki-100 kit, and the Hasegawa looks like a great option. And if I can turn out one half as good as yours, I'll be well chuffed!

     

    All the best,

    Mark

     Thanks for the comments Mark, really appreciate it! This one was a pleasure to build and does sit very proudly on my shelf 

    • Like 1
  6. Interesting idea that display. Will be keen to see how that comes out

     

    Not sure of the reason for the Germans to mount the sight offset from the centre but knew it was correct, just a pity the mounting pin on the kit IP was a little too offset to the hole.

     

    I mounted the gunsight last night, I ended up adding some brass rod to the rear of the kit's gunsight to bring it away from the IP enough and to centre it in the cutout. I also cut off the clear section that was representing the glass as it was just way too thick, replacing it was some thin clear packaging. Probably not to scale but looks much better.

     

    Camouflaging is not far away, mine will be an aircraft out of Sicily 😀

    • Like 1
  7. Made any more progress on this one @Bonkin

     

    I had a play with mine over the weekend & finally smoothed out the plastic over the model. I found the surface to be quite pebbly and inconsistent over the entire airframe, is yours the same? Using the kits IP I have also found the gunsight doesn't line up with the hole in the coaming. Ideally, it needs to move to the left a few mm but I have come too far for that to happen now. At least using the Airscale IP you can place where you need to. 

    • Like 1
  8. You are a braver man than I for filling those rivets! Also good to see some more progress on this one. I don't mind the rivets, but I can understand why you want them gone. Once they are filled, you look just about ready for camo to go on. I may have missed it but have you decided on a scheme yet?

     

    Much like you I have been away from the bench for too long, but did get to put some work into mine yesterday. These 1/24 Fw190's are going to be an impressive bird once competed 

    • Like 1
  9. 8 hours ago, Bonkin said:

    Thanks Volksjager. How are you getting on with your build? If I recall correctly, getting the forward bulkhead to line up with the shell ejector chutes did require some sanding and force. :)

     

    Cheers bissyboat.

     Nice update and glad to see you're still underway with this and haven't lost the mojo for it. Your engine looks fantastic with the fuel lines and I do like the extra work with the slat mechanism. 

     

    Mine is moving nicely. Finished my engine, mounted the wing's & horizontal stab's etc. As I am not opening the engine cowl or gun cover I have just recently fixed the cowl into place and have the gun cover ready to go on as well. I found the opening was more oval than round. I ended up shimming both lower cowl joints with 1mm plastic card and mounted the front of the cowl to keep it round while glue was drying. An added bonus was then being able to make the added card look like the piano hinge for the cowls. 

    • Like 1
  10. Nice work on this build. I have been following along as I am building the same kit at the moment, something I have had since I was about 15 and just never got to building it. 

     

    I love the work to the cockpit and the Airscale IP looks great. I did connect the long flat panel aft of the cockpit (the one that has the luggage door on it) to the cockpit itself while I was test fitting so I got the position correct but I am finding that the forward bulkhead doesn't line up with the shell ejector chutes on the underside of the wing though the wheel wells seem to be fine 🤔

     

    I agree the dihedral is my biggest fear as well, I bent my lower wing into shape with hot water (as well as the underside of the fuselage for that matter for a better joint) but I think I will also need a wing spar to maintain the angle. Your wheel wells look good too. I found it disappointing that Airfix did half a job on them. Still a good opportunity to scratch build 

     

    Looking forward to the next update!

    • Like 2
  11. Thanks once again for the comments guys, really appreciate it! I have a couple on the go at the moment (an MPM Kikka & a Sword "Randy") but might have to start another one shortly with a NMF & do a build log once again.

     

    17 hours ago, Toryu said:

    Wonderful Toryu! I never really noted this uniquely camouflaged plane. It's fair to assume that the rudder like all other control surfaces was not stripped of paint, which would have damaged the fabric. It would be interesting to know where the lower paint demarcation line was. It's almost redundant to say that I love your NM finish. I just think that Hasegawa's panel lines are to heavy - but what can you do...

     

    Many thanks Toryu. With such a small amount of photo's it's hard to be conclusive to what the final finish would have been. Here are the other 2 I used plus a 3rd I used for the aerial wire (still machines from the 5th though) 

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    Ki-45 Rear quarter

     

    Ki-45 Antenna wire

     

    I also liked this colour profile for the demarcation line 

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    With all the pictures above I think I was as accurate as I could be with the angles I had. Plus I was able to confirm the wing roots were not Black brown & the trim tab on the rudder was white. I also think the nosecap was a darker steel colour rather than brown. The panel lines I don't mind to much. From a normal viewing distance they dont stand out to much at all but close up I can see what you mean 

    • Like 3
  12. Thanks to everyone for taking the time to comment, really appreciate it and glad you like the model!

     

     

    6 hours ago, cifenet said:

    Awesome job!

     

    The metal shine is fantastic.  I like how you made it to shine differently based on panels.

     

    Question for you, have you seal the metal finish?

     

    Certain metal paints need sealing to preserve the finish, but then I noticed it affects the shine (both the good and bad way).

     

     

    Thankyou very much. No I don't seal my metal paints at all because of exactly what you said, it affects the shine. The only downside is having to be careful how you hold the model as it can rub off of the high spots or sharper edges (like wing leading and trailing edges). Lacquer paints are very durable though and can stand up to quite a bit of weathering 

  13. I managed to complete this one a couple of weeks ago but just realised I never post it up as complete on here

     

    This aircraft is quite a controversial one because of it's paint scheme. The aircraft in question was flown by the 5th Sentai out of Kiyoshu Airfield and belonged to Maj Yoshiaki Yamashita. It was stripped of it's factory night paint scheme on the upper surfaces but retained the paint on it's underside, control surfaces and the engine cowls & faring's. This was done to try and raise the performance of high altitude interception of B-29's but was not approve by higher command.  There are a only 3 photo's of the machine that I know of but the main one you will mostly see is this one 

     

    29-1

    (Credit to the owner of the original photo) 

    In the Hasagawa boxing of the Kai Tei of the 5th flight regiment this paint scheme is supplied but they show the upper wings being brown, the rudder as red as well as the nosecap. After speaking to Nick Millman we both agree that this was not the case. I have painted the model in the best interpretation we could come up with. The model is painted using SMS paints, the metallic's being a mix of Super Silver & Stainless Steel with Steel being applied on the darker upper areas. The underside is a custom colour to make the Japanese night black brown colour. All markings were painted on accept for the tail insignia & text as well as the odd stencil here and there. Weathering was done with Tamiya panel liner & some pigments.

     

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    I was also lucky enough to take home Gold in the 1/72 Out of Box category with this one at the recent local model show which I was pretty happy about 

     

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    Hope you like it!

    • Like 52
    • Thanks 1
  14. Thanks for all the kind words guys! Really appreciate it.

     

    On 4/12/2022 at 12:36 AM, Ngantek said:

    Beautifullly made! Those SMS metallics look great, and the scratchbuilding really adds to the result. The slightly worn look you get on the stainless is an effect I've been trying to work out how to do for a while. Is it just washed and somewhat left dirty or is there some stippling effect that you apply to the centre of those panels?

    Despite its somewhat sinister history, I've always thought the Tsurugi was a beautiful aircraft and had written off hope of finding an Eduard one, so seeing from here there was an SH version, and in a scale that might fit inside my house, I've gone and got one as well!

     

    The SMS metallic are very easy to use. I mainly use the Super silver and tone it down with washes etc but the stainless steel is just a great look. The base underneath is gloss black which I was very happy with. Once dry I used a thin panel liner wash then just pigments over the top for wear. The interesting effect comes when you apply stainless steel over the top of Super silver, brings out the gold tones in the colour which is what I doing at the moment on my current build 

     

    I have also given up on the Eduard version though maybe one day I will get it 

    • Like 1
  15. Thanks for the kind words guys!

     

    8 hours ago, Toryu said:

    Nice Tsurugi! The base looks excellent, even though I don't quite understand how the even surface is achieved with your method?

     

    The idea I had for the base is very similar to creating rolled steel texture on armour. The thin putty isnt to bad of a surface to start with but the light sand is what knocks off the ridges to create the smooth surface. Once the primer hits is it the surface texture is almost exactly what I wanted for concrete

  16. The Ki-115 was an aircraft that was designed purely for suicide attacks & was to be flown by unskilled pilots. Nakajima started designed for the aircraft in January 1945. It was to be built with non strategic materials & would utilise a variety of engines, though in practice all machines were built with the Ha-115. A semi concealed bomb was to be carried on the underside of the aircraft and the landing gear would be jettisoned after takeoff. First flights were made as early as March, 1945 & a number of problems were found such as issues with visibility, the unsprung gear caused vibration & take off was difficult. Though problems were fixed it never saw combat & never received an allied code name because of this. 104 machine were built before the end of the war with one left in existence today. 

     

    The Special Hobby kit was quite surprising as you get quite a bit for your money & the detail was pretty good. The panel lines were finely engraved plus you got a small sheet of etch & some resin parts such as the engine, exhaust stubs, intake & the bomb. The best part is I found this one locally second hand from another modeller for $10

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    The boxing covers 3 different paint schemes which were the 3 stages of paint completion at the Ota factory (NMF, NMF with dark green around insignia & Dark green over grey green). My heart straight away went to the first stage of completion, which is overall NMF with just the insignia painted. Some quick research found a series of pics from inside the factory around September 1945 

    Nak-ki-115-3

     

    So I got straight into the build, with minimal pictures taken during construction because I wasn't sure if this was one that would work out or not. A quick test fit showed with a little adjustment things were lining up pretty good which was promising. Unfortunately no cockpit shots either, not that you can see much, but the pit was overall wood so brown tones with some interior green on the side walls. With that finished the rest went together pretty quick with no real issued other than the wing underside join to the body. The joint itself was fine but I found I had to sand away some material to round the insert to match the fuselage. The majority of the smaller round or tubular parts were replaced with brass tube in matching diameters, except for the main gear which was just cleaned up & used. I even remade the rear shock absorber on the tail skid by wrapping some copper wire around brass tube. The canopy was dipped in Future for clarity & masks were used on the tiny canopy for painting. The hardest part were the exhaust stacks, which had to be trimmed and glued onto the edge of the cowl otherwise they would not have sat properly. 

     

    The overall colour is SMS Stainless steel as I wanted the darker, shinier tone to match the pictures. The empennage & Ailerons are SMS Super silver to represent painted fabric as seen on the last existing example of the aircraft. The wingtips & landing gear are SMS Steel & the anti glare strip is SMS anti glare. All insignia were cut using my Cricut cutter then painted on. Though I modified the included propeller to have  an enclosed spinner I decided to leave it off as I prefer the aircraft with it removed & wanted to display as it was found in the Ota factory. The weathering was done with a small amount of Tamiya panel liner & weathering pigments. 

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    Now I did say I wanted it to look as it did back in the Ota factory, so that would require a factory floor! I used a piece of styrene for the base, covering the surface with Tamiya grey putty thinned with extra thin cement & stippled on with a short brush. When dry some groves were cut with a scribe & once again stippled with the same mix, then lightly sanded once dry. The base was primed in black before various grey tones were marbled on & a flat coated applied. Finally Tamiya panel liner was used to highlight the groves, scratches & dents as well as producing oil stains. Not to bad for a first attempt at anything like this though maybe a little to blue grey.

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    Now I just got to work out what I am going to stick the base to! 

     

    Very happy with this build and how it turned out & would happily build this kit again if I ever found another.

    • Like 31
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