Jump to content

bangle

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    192

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by bangle

  1. bangle
    Thanks for the words of encouragement, i'm really happy that you're all enjoying the journey! I've been taking a couple of days off. I think I may have reach burn out stage with that one so I needed a bit of time to recover. I've got some more progress pictures to post tomorrow though so i'm getting back into the swing of things (i've also been spending a small amount of time on CAD again!).
  2. bangle
    Well the explanation will probably disappoint you greatly and take away the mystery but here goes... With the curved piece I first worked out what it would be like if it was all flattened out. Then I got all my dimensions to make up a flat shape (top left on the CAD drawing image), which I cut using just an ordinary scalpel. I then drilled the holes for my brass rod. At this point a certain amount of fudging was involved. I wanted to get my styrene sheet to bend but of course it doesn't want to stay put, it just springs back. I didn't want to bend it too much as it would just snap so I tried heating it then bending it over some brass rod of various diameters. This worked a little but of course it's too thick so in the end I cheated. The rod is a tight fit in the hole so it pushes on very snugly, hence the bent plastic stays bent and doesn't spring away, it is under a little tension though but nothing too serious. When it gets glued on later the tension will also be reduced. It's the same with the arch above the part. It's literally just a piece of plastic card bent and plastic welded on, that's it. You have to do it a little bit at at time starting with the top of the arch and working to the edges but it works perfectly fine. (see now this is where you all get disappointed by the sheer simplicity of it all). For the raised edging I just used plastic weld to stick plastic card on the edges of the plastic card part i'd already made (a bit like adding edging tape) then trimmed it to the shape I liked with a scalpel blade. In summary it is literally just flat pieces of plastic card plastic welded onto other bits of flat plastic card!
  3. bangle
    I love your scheme very much! As to being ww2 like I have no room to comment, I really don't have a clue, but my imagination says it's a plausible wartime scheme. Your painting skills are excellent, I like the variation of shades within the colour. I wish I was that good!
  4. bangle
    Very serious indeed, it's funny i'm not the kind of person that has to have everything perfectly accurate, but that part really bugged me! I'm glad you like my work I actually thought about it! Then I decided to stop getting distracted with the idea and get on with my model. I believe LZ models do a resin casting service as well now which piqued my interest as my limited experience in resin casting suggests I need to practice more! I'm hoping it's going to work well, most of the 86's don't have a water tank that looks like that. For the older ones it's just a solid welded box. 333 appears to be quite atypical in many respects though. I do sometimes wonder how many people look at my thread and think that maybe it's a little complicated! Honestly though, i've seen many builds of this model where they haven't gone crazy on the extra details and they still look great. A lot of the added details are also really simple to add, the most recent part not so much but the rest is simpler than it appears. The main flaw with the kit i've seen is the lack of anything in the area between the tank and the boiler. I notice that a lot of people do high or low angle photos to disguise the fact that there's a big gap where light just shines though. I'm going to be adding some pipes and things down there to make sure that it's not so obvious.
  5. bangle
    So much for the pistons, it seems my attention has been drawn elswhere again. I started by removing a few holes and flattening out some bits on the housing. I took a nice picture of the origional parts with the other one I was in the process of filling. The fit wasn't nice so it was beginning to take some time to do the sand and fill thing so I turned my attention to other parts. Now the working parts of said pistons go through the second frame so I turned my attention to that. Now if I hadn't decided to buy Libor's lovely resin I think I may have just lived with the kit parts, but I didn't. The can of worms has been opened and there's no going back! Below is what the kit part looks like. So I jumped on CAD, scaled down a picture of the real thing to the correct size, and took some drawings. Then I made up a template for the main part and cut it out with my scalpel blade. I decided to use brass rod to go through the holes, it's very sturdy and does a good job of holding the curve that the part needed. On the edges of the part I used some very thin plastic card which I shaped to make the raised edges (i'm having trouble with my descriptions here, if in doubt just look at the pictures, they make more sense than I do!) I then set to work on the back, this was the easy part, the hood like bit is just a bit of shaped plastic card bent and stuck with plastic weld and the back is just thin plastic card with hex rod. Pretty standard fare really. It really does add to the overall look though. Finally i'm finished with front of the frame. I haven't glued the main part on yet as I do need to put other bits on the brass rod. Having them unattached will also be helpful as i'm not done with this frame yet. I need to turn my attention to the back! It appears to be less complicated, however of course now i've got the front done the kit part that goes on the back looks horribly thick and clunky. Ah well, back to the model making table it is.... (Edited so this post actually makes sense! I seem to be a little incoherent this morning!)
  6. bangle
    Very nice work! I love how neat and precise everything is. It's going to look stunning with all that detail!
  7. bangle
    Thank you, Simon, still a long way to go! I've just found more detail to do, i've just noticed that I need to do some major works on the second frame with the oval hole to get it to look right. Ah well, at least I appear to have got the water tanks mainly sorted. Apart from adding the handle and the steps it appears they're done. The strips and bolts I added should help location of the frames on final assembly, i'm quite happy with my test fit of the first frame, it looks just like it should. Next I'm going to begin on the pistons, lots of work to do here. For a change it looks like i'm simplifying parts! At least they are mostly simple shapes.
  8. bangle
    What gets me is the 1:72 scale version looks like it has better detail than my kit! I just take mine a section at a time. If I thought of everything that needed doing I think i'd have to go lie down somewhere! Then it would never get finished!
  9. bangle
    That's a good point, I tend to forget when i'm in the middle of something. My husband has been regaling me of the times his sister got her hair caught in an electric whisk... Ouch! Not too many short cuts, only in the places that you can't see I don't see too much point in adding detail when it can't be viewed in the finished product. I'm going to be making a lot of additions to the rear frame though, it's a little sparse to say the least.
  10. bangle
    Well it's been 2 days and I still haven't got these water tanks together. To begin they looked like this:- The first thing I did was take the non-slip finish off the top, nice and simple. Next, as usual I seem to have decided to make my life complicated and try and replicate the skin on the side of the water tank. I made myself a template on the computer Then i spent a long time chain drilling the original kit part. It took me so long David took a photo of me for prosperity's sake. Once it was all chain drilled then came the painful task of cutting it all out. This took a looong time! After that I applied plastic glue to the frame and added a very thin sheet of plastic card (the excess will be trimmed later) At this point it all went terribly wrong. I decided the best way to make the plastic card dip in was to use plastic weld on the reverse and let it suck the plastic cards downwards. In theory this was a great idea. In practice it really was not. The sucking effect worked a little too well and I ended up with a very messy looking part with wrinkles and very prominent ribs. I didn't take a photo, instead I began the task of peeling and scraping the offending plastic card off my frame. Then I tried again, this time I decided to use my hairdryer to heat up the plastic. Then used my nail to depress the plastic until I was happy with the degree of distortion. This worked much better. Finally I achieved the look I was after. It's not so easy to see but you can feel it so I think it will work once it's painted. I was hoping to put it all together today but I had neglected to do some copious filling on the rest of the water tank so i'm going to have to wait for my filler to dry.
  11. bangle
    I've just spent the last 20 minutes reading through your entire thread, great stuff! I'm suddenly getting loads of ideas on how to make things for my build! Keep up the good work, I want to see more!
  12. bangle
    Thanks Breaker, that's a high compliment. You mean I didn't have to glue the bolt I knocked off back on? I missed a trick there!
  13. bangle
    Indeed, a LOT more work. Just when i've sorted one thing I spot another two... or three ... or four things that need working on. I must confess that I do have plenty of spare time to spend on model making though, being a housewife. It keeps me away from the hoovering and out of trouble . The frames are beginning to come together, but as with the rest of the model, one thing seems to have a knock on effect on the other. One of the frames is very much attached to the big bar on top of the piston so it looks like i'm going to have to venture into that area soon. I also need to get round to building the water tanks so i'm going to have a bash at that next, so I can have some idea of how it's all going to go together. Of course some adjustments are required so it's back to the reference photos for me now. So much for painting!
  14. bangle
    Thank you Jorgen and René. I've just had to upgrade my photobucket account because I exceeded my monthly bandwidth allowance on this thread, so i'm glad my work is appreciated! I can't say trains is usually my thing either but I enjoy doing something a bit different. It's fun and remarkably challenging as i've never really gone too far into adjusting a kit before. I feel like i've gone on a crash course in scratch building! I didn't manage to get any airbrushing done as we had visitors but it may be a good thing as i've decided to postpone it a bit whilst I sort out the frames between the main frame and the boiler. It seems they need some work (no surprises there). One of the frames is completely innaccurate and the others need some adjustments. I am also going to add in the panels and bolts around the edges. Below is a good comparison of the kit and the actual thing. It makes me realise I have a long way to go and a lot of little things to make!
  15. bangle
    Nice work! The 3D printed wheels look just perfect. I feel your pain with the photo etch vs kit part debate, i've been having the same issues with my current build. The kit part doesn't look good at all, maybe you could add depth to the photo etch by adding a bit of plastic card strip behind? Amanda
  16. bangle
    I'd say add the detail as you go. Exactly when you add it depends on if it is going to it flat on your model or is going to stick out and possibly get knocked off. In the end though it is personal preference, I sometimes annotate my instructions with a reference that reminds me that there is PE to go on in a particular area so that I remember. Flicking backwards and forwards between instruction sets can be a pain! Anyway I hope this helps, Amanda
  17. bangle
    Thanks Stu, I have found this page before, it is a very useful one. I may even be going on a visit to the railway later on in the year if all goes to plan!
  18. bangle
    Thank you I'm sorry to hear about about your wallet Dave, i'm sure it will recover though. Not many more purchases on my part. I did get myself a few little bits and pieces from Cosford model show though. I decided i needed a single drain to go next to my water pump so I bought the mini art street accessories kit. The funniest thing is I only need a single drain from the whole set but i'm sure the rest will come in useful some day. I also got myself some more ballast as I think the stuff i'd already bought was quite under scale. Back to the model. A lot of thinking has been going on in the intervening time and very little actual making. I'm busy trying to remember what I was going to do on my frame and in what order, I had gotten it figured out about 2 years ago! In actual visible model terms, I have managed to get some brass rods through my wheels and get them test fitted (the rear ones look really wonky in the pictures as the blue tak I put on to test fit was busy deciding to give up on me!). The frame is at a point now where I want to get its first spray done, I still haven't chosen the red i'm going to use yet. The restored version is quite bright but I might tone it down a bit. I don't want it to look too plastic if you know what i mean. I've also been working on the front buffer, I've got most of the detail sorted apart from making some steps. I decided to make my own frame for the steps to go on as the kit part was too thick and the photo etch too thin and not at all like the ones on 333. I also added a wire hook, i'm not sure what it does but it's very noticeable on the real thing. There's a couple of other minor adjustments to kit parts for accuracy sake as well. Anyway, thanks for the comments, hopefully I will get my colour sorted and get some airbrushing done tonight.
  19. bangle
    This might help, it's got some nice pics of the tender http://www.drehscheibe-foren.de/foren/read.php?17,5852699 I suspect you might be looking for this type of brakes http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Druckluftbremse_%28Eisenbahn%29 but there's an article on other types here http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bremse_%28Eisenbahn%29#Klotzbremse This site may or may not be useful too http://dlok.dgeg.de/74.htm At the very least you might be able to find some good search terms.
  20. bangle
    Well i'm pretty pleased with how my rust has turned out. First I painted a base of humbrol 160 along all the rails and left that to dry. Once dry I found one of my fuzziest brushes and used it to dry brush on a mix of humbrol 62 and 82. I then went along the top edge with some drybrushed 82. Then all the paint that ended up on top of the rails were sanded off with a fine micromesh (the major advantage to using metal rails!). Now that's done i'm on to getting my wheels fixed up so that they will sit on the rails correctly.
  21. bangle
    If you really do want to try and fix it some fast setting araldite may be your answer, it doesn't cause any silvering whatsoever. I use it to fix my clear parts sometimes, just be sparing with it and try and avoid getting your fingers in it which can be messy. It would probably be better just to get yourself a new kit or canopy though. You've done all that work so it would be a shame to spoil it by having a sub-standard canopy.
  22. bangle
    I made the buffers from some 5mm walnut sheet stock I had hanging around from my wooden model ship building times. We used our hobby circular saw to cut it into 8mm wide strips then cut them to length which was 75mm. Well it looks like we're having an exchange of information as I hadn't yet come accross the RB buffers before, I just looked them up, they're a VERY nice bit of kit. Thanks tommy1drop, work is progressing slowly and steadily at the moment as i'm doing a bit of hand painting on the rails. Though I was a bit annoyed this morning, our small child decided to nudge me whilst painting and I had to remove brown enamel paint from one of my sleepers! Luckily I was using a fairly fine brush and I could scrape it off with a blade.
  23. bangle
    Oops, yes you're correct, my error. That wasn't even close was it! I'm hoping I got the rest right though. It was quite a process getting them all resized on photobucket, that kind of thing takes an age! It's worth the while though to get such nice comments backs so thanks to all of you
  24. bangle
    Next up, one of David's models, the Sweet kits Hurricane, again a pleasure to build. Now to some even smaller models, again built by David, a 1/350 scale hellcat and helldiver. these were really fiddly because of their size. Next to last we have my eduard Me 262. this went together nice and quickly, the mottle pattern was airbrushed freehand. Last of all we have the Cyber Hobby 1/200 scale Vulcan, this model was quite gappy around the join of the two halves so i had to spend a bit of time on it, plus the legs are really fragile and I had trouble fitting them as I accidentally cut off a little too much material, but it worked out OK in the end. Well that's all from me for now, I hope you enjoy looking at our entire small scale collection we've built up between us!
  25. bangle
    Next I think i'll throw in a non-aircraft model, the trumpeter LCAC in 1/144 scale made by me. The vinyl skirt was an absolute pain. Next i'll display the A-model Canberra in 144, This was built by David and was quite a tough one, it needed a lot of work and filler to get it together so it's not a quick build like the rest. David did a great job on this one and it's one of my favorites. Next up, another one of David's the Ju52 from eduard. He decided not to use the snake decal, because of the ribbing so he made up a mask instead and sprayed it on. more on it's way.....
×
×
  • Create New...