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RichardL

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Everything posted by RichardL

  1. Finally somewhat happy with the top intake braces:
  2. I've been wrestling with the top intake struts/braces for the past couple of days. I'm still not happy and will probably spend another day on it before moving on.
  3. Worked on the bottom intake braces today. I used the stock ones, which are too big, about twice as big as they need to be. However, they have the correct mounting angle for the side of the fuselage. I just glued them to the fuselage and bottom of the intakes. Once the superglue dried, I used a sharp x-acto knife to trim them down to the correct size and thickness:
  4. Does anyone know the diameter of the wingtip lights? I need to make them, but I have no idea how big they are. Thanks.
  5. That's a very nice picture. Yeah, I have the old type instrument panel.
  6. I am going to make an older JA 37 so I can paint the splinter scheme. I believe all the newer JA-37D and JA-37DI upgrades are painted in standard two-tone grey camouflage. I'll be using TwoBobs decals. I will do aircraft 34 from F 13 squadron:
  7. Milliput sticks quite well to the plastic. It sticks even better if you roughen up the plastic a little with coarse sandpaper. You can even put a dab of superglue on the plastic before sticking Milliput to it.
  8. Out comes the old Milliput again. The trick to get Milliput to harden properly is to mix in just a tad more yellow part over the white part. Poor leading edges will need to be sanded and shaped again:
  9. You are so right. On page 61 of my Squadron Viggen Walkaround book, it says: "To allow improved combat manuevering, the aircraft has four elevon actuators beneath each wing, in contrast to the three on early Viggen subtypes. The two elevon sections are joined together and the elevon hinges have been reinforced." This means most of the JA-37 scale models I haven seen have this wrong. Since I have not gone too far, I have decided to take a step backward for the good of the project. Unfortunately, this ruined the leading edge of the outer elevons, so I need to rebuild them.
  10. Interesting. I didn't know that and wonder why that is. Thanks for pointing that out. I will try to find more pictures and make a correction.
  11. This is not the ready for inspection section. We add white to paints to reduce saturation for scale effect. Similarly, we also need to tone down weathering a tad for scale effect. The weathering on a dirty aircraft when viewed from a distance appears to blend together and somewhat subdued.
  12. Two Mikes corrected vertical fin is installed: It's beginning to look more like a JA-37.
  13. I, on the other hand, will gladly welcome and appreciate negative comments on any of my models so I can do a better job next time. I learn best from my mistakes. On my online builds, I have always asked the readers to provide feedback.
  14. Fixed. The control surfaces now droop down just the right amount:
  15. Talk about over weathering. Geez. Looks more like a tank or a marine aircraft that has been at sea for years without being washed than a land based aircraft.
  16. Control surfaces attached: I think the inner port side flap/elevon droops down just a tad too much, so I will see if I can break it off and raise it up a little.
  17. The white Milliput dried rock hard after a couple of days. I was able to wet sand and shape one of the control surfaces: Then primed: This one still needs some light sanding. I have three more to do, and each one takes 30-45 minutes.
  18. That's odd because mine gets rock hard after 18 hours. It has been 12 hours, and the Milliput is already rock solid. I can't deform it by squeezing it. I'll wait a few more hours just to be safe. I think mixing a small amount at a time helps.
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