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Cookenbacher

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Everything posted by Cookenbacher

  1. Cookenbacher
    Looking forward to this one Jon, the Airfix Sabre has been tempting me for a while. My favorite of your mojo suffering builds is the wrecked 109's. Are you planning anything similar for the BoB GB?
  2. Cookenbacher
    Hi John, do you mean the ones attached the bottom of the engine bays like here? Unfortunately, the Hasegawa kit doesn't seem to come with them. I rummaged around Revell and Italeri GR1 kits as well, and couldn't find anything like them. I'm sorry John. Duncan, the more I read about the Hasegawa F3 the more I'm thinking I got the wrong kit (it's been in the stash a while). I've got an unassembled Italeri IDS/ECR kit that I've been using as paint mule, and I'm thinking of using parts from it as well.
  3. Cookenbacher
    Agreed, don't know how you got all that detail in 1/144th Hockeyboy. It looks great.
  4. Cookenbacher
    The chipping looks great -Neu-.
  5. Cookenbacher
    Good thinking Ced and Jon. Using the Airfix wheels up option is brilliant. You look quite menacing in the mask Ced! For spraying Alclad, I think you'll need to add organic vapor cartridges.
  6. Cookenbacher
    They're both short run kits, but very nice ones. I was able to build them with little experience in short run kits, and they may have spoiled me. The AZ/Legato has a too complicated radiator assembly under the nose, and it is almost impossible to assemble without a bunch of gaps. I found it difficult to get the correct dihedral with the wing to fuselage fit on the Sword kit.
  7. Cookenbacher
    For build, the Academy kit is really fun, but it is not very accurate. I attempted to fix the kit with an AZ/Legato canopy, Quickboost spinner, and by reshaping the spine here. In my opinion, it's an improvement, but still doesn't look right compared to other kits. I think you're probably best off with the Hasegawa kit. The AZ/Legato kit also just looks right to me on the shelf, but it is kind of a pain to build. Procopius built just about every 1/72 P-40 on the market in one go, here.
  8. Cookenbacher
    I built a 92 Sqn Lightning in that STGB, and am building 92 Sqn Phantom in that STGB, so I thought I'd continue the theme with this one. However, there was a slight hiccup in that 92 Sqn didn't convert to the Tornado from the Phantom. So, this is going to be a bit of a whif: a special scheme for the inaugural Tornado F3 to enter service with 92 Sqn in the year of the 50th Anniversary of the Battle of Britain. I'll be using the 1/72 Hasegawa kit, which apparently fits nicely but has lots of shape issues. I started by reshaping the vertical tail, which is too square on top. It's not much, but it's a start. Thank you Mish for starting this Group Build in Merv's honour. I never got to meet him, but the loss of any Britmodeller is a loss to us all.
  9. Cookenbacher
    Thanks Hockeyboy and John! I go the canopy and metal section on the back all masked up: And sprayed Alclad grey primer for the first time. Based on some good advice from fellow Britmodellers, I sprayed it at 18 psi, and it went on like a dream. I can see why folks recommend this stuff.
  10. Cookenbacher
    That paint job is dang near perfect Arnold.
  11. Cookenbacher
    Also got a little bit done on the lucky Spitfire. Procopius warned me about the spinner not fitting the prop on the new AZ kit, so I added some plasticard to fill the gaps. And the canopy is masked. Thanks for looking.
  12. Cookenbacher
    Looking forward to your tests Giemme. Thanks Rob, and I'm glad you've got your Typhoon started. I started weathering the P-38 today. First I used some Vallejo wash for oil and fuel stains, and then tempera paint for dirt and mud. Then I blended it together with chalk pastels. I've got a little more clean up to do, and then it's time attach all the bits that I was afraid I'd break when weathering.
  13. Cookenbacher
    I love the P-51's Ced. I agree with you about your metallics comparison, the True Metal gives such an interesting effect, but the Alclad is so smooth. Difficult to choose.
  14. Cookenbacher
    It's looking great Rob. It does look like a nice kit, the new Airfix kits just seem to get better and better. I wonder what they'll do with the Wildcat and Beaufighter.
  15. Cookenbacher
    That's a bummer about the kit's molding, but I'm sure you'll get it sorted out. A little sanding/buffing and it's gonna look great.
  16. Cookenbacher
    Very interesting.
  17. Cookenbacher
    Yes!!! I've been waiting for this one.
  18. Cookenbacher
    Good to see you joined this one George. That was a very productive weekend!
  19. Cookenbacher
    Hi Giemme, I noticed that the decal conforms as the future dries, so it takes a few minutes, and the results look best overnight.
  20. Cookenbacher
    Rob, the letters look fantastic. I haven't joined the world of masking markings yet, but I figured that I'd start with roundels as they seem simpler than squadron letters. So you were successful with the more complicated portion in my opinion, and I think you should give the roundels a go if you feel like it. I won't complain if you start the Typhoon early though.
  21. Cookenbacher
    That's some wonderful work -Neu-, you definitely have the ol' airbrush skills down. I have to say that you and PC, made a fine choice pairing these fighters, they're both so elegant. Thanks for the link on the 248th Sentai.
  22. Cookenbacher
    Thanks Stew, hopefully I can get proficient at the Temperate Land Scheme in time for the BoB GB, even without your secret weapons: Phoenix Precision Paints and awesome brush (air and bristle) skills. I had a dream that I used Lifecolor tan for Dark Earth and it turned out great. I'm afraid that this is a case where one shouldn't follow his dreams! Thanks Giemme, I saw this decal method in an issue of Fine Scale Modeller, and Rob Vulcan also advocates it. Basically use Future/Klear instead of Micro-set. While the decal is in the water, apply some Future to the appropriate spot on the model. Then place the transfer onto the little pool of Future and dab away the excess water/Future as usual. Once you've got it placed how you want, add another coat of Future on top. The idea is to encase the transfer in varnish, above and below, and eliminate silvering. I like to thin the Future/Klear with a little distilled water, but that's just personal preference. I have to say that it really worked, and the decals conformed nicely to panel lines too. The RS decals are really great, and they provide lots of options, so they may have worked just fine no matter what method I used. More experiments will be necessary. I wonder if other clear varnishes would work as well, say a matt varnish, hmmm. Rich, I know your work schedule is crazy, so thanks for taking the time to lead this group build and encourage everyone.
  23. Cookenbacher
    Thanks Wolwe and Stix! I was mostly done with the builds when I decided to go wheels up with them (since the flaps were fixed up) and it was sort of an expedient and experiment to see what they looked like with no props at all. For my next wheels up prop build, I'm definitely going to experiment with prop blur. Thanks for the link Stix, I somehow missed the part where you experimented with different methods.
  24. Cookenbacher
    Wonderful build of the old Airfix kit Ian.
  25. Cookenbacher
    I apologize for neglecting this one. The decals are on. I used the 'pool of Future/Klear' method rather than Micro-set/sol and it worked well. They're very bright, and definitely need some de-saturation when the time comes.
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