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ICMF

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Everything posted by ICMF

  1. Some interesting new developments in the hardware side of things. First up, Anycubic have announced the first budget DLP printer. This uses a projector under the vat, rather than masking off an array of LEDs, so it should give a crisper, more defined, more accurate image, with correspondingly improved prints. It's "just" the size of the standard Photon or Mars and pixel size is 80 um, but the actual prints are on par with (or better than) 35 um printers. It will be launched as a Kickstarter soon, where you can expect a significant savings over retail prices (but you're also getting beta units that may have nits to iron out...) Review of a pre-release unit here: https://youtu.be/eAf0mpF9Nww This is a REALLY interesting development, as it opens up a bunch of cool possibilities - if they make the projector 'focusable', you could theoretically get down to, like, 10 um if you just printed a small ejection seat or wheel in the middle of the build plate. Definitely on my radar to replace my OG Photon. Next, Elegoo announced a new larget-format printer yesterday: the Elegoo Jupiter. It has a 12.8" 6K screen for a respectable 278 x 156 x 300 mm build volume (11 x 6 x 12") @ 51 um resolution. Again, they're launching on Kickstarter at a significant discount - MSRP is $1300 US, but the super early bird Kickstarter price will be $600. IMO, it's a bit of a 'mushy middle' printer; it's really compelling at the launch price, but at full MSRP, it kind of lags behind the competition. The Phrozen 8K is only $300 more, has a bigger, higher-res screen for better detailed prints, AND has an extra 10 cm on the Z axis. It's probably a bit of a moot point for most modellers, but one of the big uses for the large format printers is the cosplay community, and I suspect 300 mm will be too short to print helmets and such, so it kind of misses the mark. Anyway, full details here: https://pbs.twimg.com/media/E86V1YCWEAIYoLJ?format=png&name=medium ...and lastly, speaking of the Phrozen 8K... it has started shipping to pre-order customers. Reviews here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HaSNoTEAg8 and here https://youtu.be/o4jlmFzb0-s Most of the criticisms I've seen either relate to the slicer (which, meh, I'm not that bothered by) or the fact that it's just so damned big (which is obviously unavoidable, really). The one legitimate complaint I've seen is that the print times are relatively long - a full Z axis print is about 70 hours, IIRC - which again goes back to the large build plate and commensurate suction forces, and the time needed for the resin to flow back across the plate. I guess that just leaves Creality and Epax to announce new stuff in the coming months.
  2. Your best bet would be to contact Elegoo for help.
  3. Shouldn't be the problem. Remove vat and build plate from the printer (so it's just the bare, exposed screen) and run the print again. Is anything showing up on the screen? If not, then can you see any light bleed from the LEDs? If the image displays fine, then I guess it's the resin - 'good' resin WILL cure on the FEP if its exposed to UV. If you can't see the image, try running the test screen, or a previously successful print. If the slices appear on your screen as per normal, then the problem is with your file; re-slice and try again (I'd check it with the vat and plate removed, just to make sure). If the slices DON'T appear on the screen, then you've either got a problem with your LCD or the LED array. If you can see light from the LEDs, then obviously they're fine and it's probably the LCD; if you can see a dim outline of the layer on the screen, but no light, then it's probably the LED, not the screen. Open the printer, re-seat the connectors to make sure they're properly connected, then try again. If it's still not working, you probably need to replace the parts diagnosed above.
  4. Again, converting your digital file into something that looks like a mould is easy. Doing it at "absolute top quality, with no necessity for manual interaction or mould cleaning" is very hard and doing it with the manufacturing requirements and at the budget a limited run manufacturer would have is borderline impossible. Yes, Cura lets you print moulds, but a.) FDM prints are terrible quality and not what the OP is looking for, b.) moulds would explode at the required pressure needed for moulding and c.) given the temperature needed to inject plastic, the moulds would melt before they even had a chance to explode.
  5. There's a big difference between being able to print something that looks like a mould, and printing an actual, usable production tooling. It's probably not feasible at any realistic pressure/temperature for injection moulding, but you would need to experiment with different resins and your own particular equipment. Generic, cheap resins almost certainly won't cut it, so you'd have to research engineering grade options. Also, it would depend on what you deem as 'acceptable' quality. For higher quality, you'll be extremely limited in terms of build size, or else looking at much higher end machinery. TL;DR: technically feasible, with a lot of caveats, but in reality probably more science fiction for modelling purposes.
  6. It's listed on the Pre-Order section of their website: https://www.elegoo.com/collections/pre-order And their social media activity for last week was all about how to pre-order the printer starting on the 10th. https://twitter.com/Elegoo_Official Plus, it's just the way Chinese tech companies do business: fund production via pre-orders, release beta units to influencers and early adopters, develop and iron out problems over time. I don't know when it will actually release, but based on experience, autumn seems a safe bet. Could be a little sooner, could be a little later, but I'd be shocked if it's in your hands within a matter of weeks. Just noticed, they're saying all the (early bird?) pre-orders will ship by August 30:
  7. It's not available. You pre-ordered for a delivery at some unknown time in the future (I don't think they've said when the pre-orders will start shipping). Again, it probably won't be released - shipped - until the autumn.
  8. It's not out yet, and probably won't be out until the autumn. So... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ If you want something sooner, either the Elegoo Mars 2 or Anycubic Photon Mono would be fine - they're functionally identical. You probably wouldn't want an Elegoo Saturn or Photon Mono X, as larger printers introduce other problems beyond the initial learning curve.
  9. Yes, this is higher resolution - 35um vs 50 um. Like the Phrozen Mini 4K
  10. More info here: https://phrozen3d.com/pages/sonic-mega-8k-preorder?mc_cid=be28bced69&mc_eid=65faf473c5 33 x 18.5 cm build plate @ 43um resolution. $1600 msrp (which is $1000 cheaper than the similarly sized but lower resolution Transform!) So yeah, kinda pricey, but definitely worth it!
  11. https://mailchi.mp/phrozen3d.com/8k-coming-soon Phrozen are teasing a new, 8K printer. From the teaser photo and text, it looks very large - my guess is in the 13.3 - 15.6" screen class, or roughly equivalent to the Transform or Epax 156. That would be upwards of 350 x 200 mm build area, but an 8K screen means it would have the pixel size of a Photon/Mars class printer. It'll almost certainly be spendy, but could be a game changer - you could print full-on kits!
  12. The factory settings should have been fine. If your supports printed but the part didn't, it means your support settings are wrong and need adjusted. Larger contact diameter and/or contact type. As a rule of thumb, the default Chitubox settings for 'fine' supports will always be TOO fine to print. You'll want to use medium or heavy (or change the defaults). Layer height won't really give you 'more' detail, per se. That's limited by the X/Y resolution of the printer. It will simply give smoother (or coarser) transitions between layers. The reverse side, around your supports... that's a standard problem. Watch this video for a really excellent breakdown of this, and may other issues: The solution is either orientation, or design. If your brake disc is 45` to the bed, you'll have supports covering the back, and will have a terrible finish on that surface. If it's perpendicular to the bed, with appropriate supports, it will print cleanly on both surfaces. Alternatively, you can tweak the design so that the two faces print separately, so you can optimize the orientation for each face. Lastly, IPA = Isopropanol = Isopropyl Alcohol = Rubbing Alcohol = Ethanol. You SHOULD be able to find it somewhere, locally, whether it's in a pharmacy, hardware store, paint store or electronics (component - think resistors and diodes and stuff) store. Barring that, denatured alcohol = methylated spirits = wood spirit = wood alcohol is a reasonable substitute and should be available in hardware stores, paint stores and camping stores (it's used for camping stoves). I would avoid acetone - apart from its higher toxicity, I'd be concerned with it degrading the acrylic components in the cured resin. A quick spray or rinse might be okay, but a longer soak could be problematic.
  13. Great way to get people to help you. To answer your question: manufacturers have material spec sheets. Use them. Or, since you have a printer, print it the part and see for yourself.
  14. So, much like the F-14 weapons, then. Not remotely as nice as Hasegawa's "recent" sets from the aughts, and not even better than the ones from the 80's. Shame they're not up to the quality of the rest of the kit, since a really high quality missile set would sell for years (if not decades).
  15. There is little to no difference in resins in terms of 'resolution'. Dark, opaque resins will theoretically perform a little better in terms of light bleed, but you won't see a dramatic difference in detail from one brand/colour/style to the next. Some resins will be more 'flexible' because they've got more plasticizer - "ABS Like" resins will bend more than 'standard' resins. "Water Washable" resins tend to be more brittle. Load-bearing items like undercarriage are best printed hollow, with wiring inserted for strength, if that's a concern. Basically, UV resins are pretty interchangeable for the most part, and the resin in a UV printer has similar properties to the normal two-part polyurethane resins you're used to dealing with in modelling. So, treat it the same way: you don't use a different resin for bombs, you're just careful not to damage them. As for clear resins... voxel and layer lines mean they're not great out of the printer. You can polish them out to a decent level of transparency, but they yellow with UV exposure, and will typically have a noticeable tint after post-curing. The following photo shows both of these effects fairly well - the woodgrain-like pattern on the upper part is from voxels + antialiasing while the lower has had a quick wet-sand and polish (emphasis on quick, hence the visible scratches). Note that these are solid prints; the effect is obviously doubled on hollow prints, since you get print artefacts on both the inside and outside of the print. Also note the bubbles trapped inside the lower print, which is a thing that often happens. And, of course, the yellow tint of the (clear) resin on top of (white) paper, from the post-cure.
  16. I agree. FEP yes, LCD no. A decent supply of isopropanol and resin. And paper towels. And gloves. I don't know if the Mono X comes with a screen protector; if not, I'd consider getting a tempered glass one for a tablet, and some Kapton tape to secure it to the printer - it will help avoid breakages and make cleaning up after spills easier/possible.
  17. Has anyone bought the JASDF weapons set? I'm curious to know how it is - I was disappointed in their F-14 weapons set.
  18. Are the printers running the same firmware? Different firmware will have different hard limits for motion speeds, which will translate into different print times.
  19. Not commissioning. Find artists you like, support them via Patreon and get access to their catalogue of previous works. Which also works as broader advice. Rather than asking a scale modelling discussion board where to find stuff that is off-topic (since any response here is going to be a generic 'here are some of the mainstream file sites'), follow stuff that specializes in your interests, find things you like, and then figure out where those people got it from. There are probably various wargaming reddit and facebook groups for whatever thing you are interested in, and the various resin printing groups are full of miniatures people... it just takes a bit of legwork to find stuff.
  20. Your best bet is probably Patreon, actually. It seems to be a popular platform for people who do miniatures - you can find artists through various social media outlets.
  21. You could switch to water-washable resin and use water instead. Otherwise... are there any forms of alcohol that are reasonably priced in Norway? Ethanol, methanol and their derivatives will work, too.
  22. They're identical. The "F-104S has a different aft fuselage" was a myth invented by Francois Verlinden in the old Lock On book. It's not true.
  23. Personally, I use the finest settings I can get away with, without crashing my software. It's not just the number of facets, but how visible they are. At a certain point, you eye can no longer discern them. Additionally, because of the layered nature of 3D printing, the deviation can be magnified with voxel-based printers. The only benefit to coarser settings is a reduced file size. You may not see much benefit with finer settings (though in this case, you would - the facetting would functionally disappear) but frankly, why not save it at the highest resolution possible? It's not like it's a gargantuan file size to begin with.
  24. No, the Photon Mono isn't an old printer. The monochrome printers use similar designs to the last generation, but they are entirely new - new mainboards, new screens, new LCD arrays and improved Z-axis arrangements. It's a bit like the fact that all cartesian FDM printers use the same basic design, but there's a huge difference between an old Anet A8 and the latest Prusa or Creality printer. Secondly, most of the different LCD-based printers are using the same components and are functionally identical (or at least, extremely similar), so it's more down to detail differences and personal preferences - metal vs. plastic vat, levelling mechanisms, etc. So, for instance, the Anycubic Photon and Elegoo Mars will function pretty much the same, but I'm less of a fan of Elegoo's ball screw levelling system. Most of the 6" class of printers have 2k screens with a pixel size of around 50um. The larger size (typically 8.9") printers use 4k screens and, as you said, end up with about the same effective pixel size of around 50um. So no, you won't get more detail out of a larger printer (or a smaller printer, for that matter). There is one exception though: the Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K is a 6" class printer that uses a 4K screen, so it has a 35um pixel size. The other big difference is 'colour' vs monochrome LCD. The first generation used a colour LCD, which let less light through, require longer exposure times, and have shorter lifespans. The newer generation (ca. last autumn) uses monochrome LCDs which let through much more light, so each layer exposes faster, which in turn resuls in a longer life expectancy for the screen. There isn't a detail difference, monochrome printers just print a little faster. So as far was what's out there now, you've got a few alternatives. The Anycubic Photon Mono and Elegoo Mars 2 Mono are probably the two most mainstream choices. They're not perfect, but they're very good budget level printers with solid design and a large user base. They're the default choices, and are so for a reason. The Epax E6 gets a lot of praise as a competitor, but it's more expensive than the Photon or Mars with a less rigid design. The Phrozen Sonic Mini is also a possible competitor, and their 4K model is higher resolution than the Photon or Mars, though it's also more expensive. https://www.elegoo.com/collections/mars-series https://epax3d.com/collections/frontpage/products/epax-e6-uv-lcd-3d-printer https://phrozen3d.com/products/sonic-mini-4k-resin-3d-printer-phrozen Lastly, you really don't need a wash and cure station. They're a little more streamlined, I suppose, but you'll get identical results just swishing your prints in a couple of jars of isporopyl alcohol and placing them under a UV light (or the sun) to finish curing. And you'll probably waste less resin and use less solvent, too. As for how robust the resin is... it depends on the resin and how long you cure it. Regular resins are probably on par with your standard scale model polyurethane resin, but there are ABS-like resins with more flex so they're less likely to break.
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