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  1. The factory settings should have been fine. If your supports printed but the part didn't, it means your support settings are wrong and need adjusted. Larger contact diameter and/or contact type. As a rule of thumb, the default Chitubox settings for 'fine' supports will always be TOO fine to print. You'll want to use medium or heavy (or change the defaults). Layer height won't really give you 'more' detail, per se. That's limited by the X/Y resolution of the printer. It will simply give smoother (or coarser) transitions between layers. The reverse side, around your
  2. Great way to get people to help you. To answer your question: manufacturers have material spec sheets. Use them. Or, since you have a printer, print it the part and see for yourself.
  3. So, much like the F-14 weapons, then. Not remotely as nice as Hasegawa's "recent" sets from the aughts, and not even better than the ones from the 80's. Shame they're not up to the quality of the rest of the kit, since a really high quality missile set would sell for years (if not decades).
  4. There is little to no difference in resins in terms of 'resolution'. Dark, opaque resins will theoretically perform a little better in terms of light bleed, but you won't see a dramatic difference in detail from one brand/colour/style to the next. Some resins will be more 'flexible' because they've got more plasticizer - "ABS Like" resins will bend more than 'standard' resins. "Water Washable" resins tend to be more brittle. Load-bearing items like undercarriage are best printed hollow, with wiring inserted for strength, if that's a concern. Basically, UV resins are pretty inte
  5. I agree. FEP yes, LCD no. A decent supply of isopropanol and resin. And paper towels. And gloves. I don't know if the Mono X comes with a screen protector; if not, I'd consider getting a tempered glass one for a tablet, and some Kapton tape to secure it to the printer - it will help avoid breakages and make cleaning up after spills easier/possible.
  6. Has anyone bought the JASDF weapons set? I'm curious to know how it is - I was disappointed in their F-14 weapons set.
  7. Are the printers running the same firmware? Different firmware will have different hard limits for motion speeds, which will translate into different print times.
  8. Not commissioning. Find artists you like, support them via Patreon and get access to their catalogue of previous works. Which also works as broader advice. Rather than asking a scale modelling discussion board where to find stuff that is off-topic (since any response here is going to be a generic 'here are some of the mainstream file sites'), follow stuff that specializes in your interests, find things you like, and then figure out where those people got it from. There are probably various wargaming reddit and facebook groups for whatever thing you are interested in, and the var
  9. Your best bet is probably Patreon, actually. It seems to be a popular platform for people who do miniatures - you can find artists through various social media outlets.
  10. You could switch to water-washable resin and use water instead. Otherwise... are there any forms of alcohol that are reasonably priced in Norway? Ethanol, methanol and their derivatives will work, too.
  11. They're identical. The "F-104S has a different aft fuselage" was a myth invented by Francois Verlinden in the old Lock On book. It's not true.
  12. Personally, I use the finest settings I can get away with, without crashing my software. It's not just the number of facets, but how visible they are. At a certain point, you eye can no longer discern them. Additionally, because of the layered nature of 3D printing, the deviation can be magnified with voxel-based printers. The only benefit to coarser settings is a reduced file size. You may not see much benefit with finer settings (though in this case, you would - the facetting would functionally disappear) but frankly, why not save it at the highest resolution pos
  13. No, the Photon Mono isn't an old printer. The monochrome printers use similar designs to the last generation, but they are entirely new - new mainboards, new screens, new LCD arrays and improved Z-axis arrangements. It's a bit like the fact that all cartesian FDM printers use the same basic design, but there's a huge difference between an old Anet A8 and the latest Prusa or Creality printer. Secondly, most of the different LCD-based printers are using the same components and are functionally identical (or at least, extremely similar), so it's more down to detail differences and p
  14. I don't think it's really known yet, but probably more fume related. That said, I haven't heard the same kind of issues with the smaller printers like the Photon/Mars; the cracks seem limited to the Saturn/Mighty/Mono X. Sci Fi is indeed better covered than military subjects, so there's less to worry about there. Though I wouldn't undersell the time/effort required to become a talented CAD designer. It's absolutely possible, but it really is a whole other hobby. ou For software, you'll need something to design parts - Fusion 360 is a popular, free, CAD package for desi
  15. I would say, first and foremost, only buy a printer if you're able to design your own parts. There isn't much ready-made stuff out there for the scale modeller, and you will mostly be limited to whatever you are able to come up with on your own. I would also point out that both designing your own parts and printing them are pretty much each a hobby unto themselves, with their own learning curve and time commitments. They're tools that take time to learn and master, not appliances you can just plug in and magically output custom parts. If you[re willing to put in the time and eff
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