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About ICMF

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  1. Testing at 5mm isn't going to give you a big enough margin, IMO, since at that size, overcure will be as much, if not more of an issue. I'd go with 25mm (or bigger - 50mm would be good). Really, the bigger the better. Doesn't have to be a solid block of resin, either. Z *shouldn't* be a problem. If you think about it, each layer hardens enough to stick to the model (hopefully...), then the build plate rises up to peel it off, and lowers down to 0.02 mm above the previous layer. Every layer, the build plate is (or should be) 0.02 mm above the last layer. So, first, there's onl
  2. A couple of thoughts... 1. Have you checked the *actual* screen size/pixel count? I recall seeing a video on Youtube that mentioned some printer specs weren't 100% accurate, which leads to wonky dimensions. Simple test would be to print a few different sized cubes/squares and check the dimensions vs. the expected dimensions; if they're a consistent percentage off in any particular dimension, you can adjust your screen size by that value in your slicer. If they're consistently the same finite measurement off, it's overcure. (found it: https://youtu.be/-rEUyR9yoBI and hey, it
  3. D'oh. Probably most significantly, it's also shorter. See those two vertical panel lines between the windscreen and the pitot tube on the nose? That section was added for the updated avionics. So it would have to go, to be accurate, as well. The PVD probe would be different too, and IIRC the radome changed a bit also. Model-wise, it wouldn't be hard with a proper conversion set - basically just a couple of resin pieces to replace the kit parts nose - but it'd take some elbow grease to do the conversion yourself, and it's definitely not just a matter of changing the m
  4. Belenko's jet was quite significantly different from the PD. The nose section in front of the canopy was totally re-done - most notably, the prominent IRST bulge was added under the nose, but even the panel lines are wildly different. Unfortunately it's pretty unlikely that ICM (or any Eastern European manufacturer) will release one, either. The first generation Foxbats didn't have an interesting history apart from Belenko, and he's not exactly a celebrated figure there. It'd be a bit like getting a kit of one of the 9/11 airliners.
  5. Yes. And it's also the same for the 'eco' resins that use PLA instead of acrylic plastics. Expose to UV to solidify the resin, then allow the water to evaporate off, and then seal your container and dispose in the garbage. DO NOT pour down the drain, onto the ground, etc, as the water is contaminated with toxic substances.
  6. Any 405nm resin will work. Anycubic, Elegoo, Phrozen, Siraya, Nova3d, Voxelab, FunToDo, Monocure, eSun, Wanhao... As long as it cures at 405nm, they're all functionally the same. You could also buy a bottle each of black and white, and mix your own grey.
  7. Note that these are not a single, solid colour. There's a lot of variance to the shade and tone of the airship, so you'll be doing a surprising amount of 'detail painting' (which, in and of itself will cover large swathes of plastic... also, an ungodly amount of masking tape). Plus, it's a very large canvas; it looks really dull and flat and 'fake' when it's just one solid colour. A rattlecan basecoat is fine (though you should plan on using a couple of full size cans), but it's a lot more work after that.
  8. I suppose I could scale mine down to 1/350 if there's that much interest. For that matter, I can also scale it up to 1/72, if anyone has 8' to spare... I should also point out, for anyone seriously considering one of these, you're definitely, *definitely* going to want a mini spray gun to paint it. Doing it with a standard airbrush would suuuuuuck!
  9. Note: this is NOT LZ 13 Hansa. LZ 13 was a pre-war (ca. 1912) G class passenger airship. This is probably LZ 45 (which had the tactical number L 13), which was a war-time (1915 - 1917) P class airship used for bombing and reconnaissance. It is entirely, visibly different from LZ 13 - most notably, there's about a 15' difference in diameter, not to mention the hanging gondolas under the P class vs. the integrated keel gondola (basically, a 'fin' down the entire belly of the airship) on the G class. My guess is they've used Thorsten Brand's card model to draft the CAD
  10. I have. It's totally fine. Just make sure you re-calibrate your Z=0 after changing the FEP. Also, you'll want to put a bottle cap (or something ~1cm/1/2" high) under the FEP while fitting it (see the Anycubic FEP replacement video). Lastly, when you 'twang' the FEP, if it's correctly tensioned it should resonate around 325 - 350Hz; you can download a spectrum analyzer app on your phone or tablet to check the frequency. Other than that, just be prepared to deal with a ton of screws.
  11. Anyubic has already posted their Black Friday deals/pricing on their website. https://www.anycubic.com/collections/sales Looks like their Amazon deals are just on the original Photon (and an FDM printer) https://www.facebook.com/anycubic3dprinter/posts/we-are-on-the-brink-of-black-friday-guys-heres-the-cant-miss-event-on-amazon-sto/467896690283125/
  12. Increased exposure time is what causes the problem. Increasing it further will not fix it. As for solutions, this is probably your best bet at the moment (the channel's other videos are worth a watch, too):
  13. Epax have just announced two new printers: the E10 with an 8.9" 4K screen and the E10-5K with a 10.1" 5K screen. https://epax3d.com/products/epax-e10-uv-lcd-3d-printer Specs on the E10 look pretty comparable to most of the other new printers in the 9" class, although they're using a plastic vat whereas everyone else seems to be metal now. They're also using an injection moulded build plate assembly, with a metal build plate attached on the bottom, which could be a little dodgy, though I'd wait for reviews before passing judgement. The E10-5K is interesting as it's the
  14. This is... not true. I mean, I guess in the extreme it could be a problem, but not within any reasonable usage. As mentioned in the first reply, the printer itself doesn't have to be particularly level - it won't have any impact on the basic operation of the machine, you'll just get resin pooling to one side when it's almost empty. More importantly though, most resin printers have adjustable feet, so if your work surface is particularly wonky, you'll be able to adjust it so it's 'close enough'. You DO have to 'level' your build plate as accurately as possible, however
  15. You can also do something similar with a (roughly cut to size) styrene bulkhead and CA - put some tape inside the part where you want to measure; hold your rough-but-close bulkhead in place; squeeze in some thick CA to fill the gap between the tape and bulkhead; spray on some accelerator; peel the whole thing, tape and all, off the plastic and sand/file away any excess CA.
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