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  1. Your best bet would be to contact Elegoo for help.
  2. Shouldn't be the problem. Remove vat and build plate from the printer (so it's just the bare, exposed screen) and run the print again. Is anything showing up on the screen? If not, then can you see any light bleed from the LEDs? If the image displays fine, then I guess it's the resin - 'good' resin WILL cure on the FEP if its exposed to UV. If you can't see the image, try running the test screen, or a previously successful print. If the slices appear on your screen as per normal, then the problem is with your file; re-slice and try again (I'd check it with the vat and plate removed, just to make sure). If the slices DON'T appear on the screen, then you've either got a problem with your LCD or the LED array. If you can see light from the LEDs, then obviously they're fine and it's probably the LCD; if you can see a dim outline of the layer on the screen, but no light, then it's probably the LED, not the screen. Open the printer, re-seat the connectors to make sure they're properly connected, then try again. If it's still not working, you probably need to replace the parts diagnosed above.
  3. Again, converting your digital file into something that looks like a mould is easy. Doing it at "absolute top quality, with no necessity for manual interaction or mould cleaning" is very hard and doing it with the manufacturing requirements and at the budget a limited run manufacturer would have is borderline impossible. Yes, Cura lets you print moulds, but a.) FDM prints are terrible quality and not what the OP is looking for, b.) moulds would explode at the required pressure needed for moulding and c.) given the temperature needed to inject plastic, the moulds would melt before they even had a chance to explode.
  4. There's a big difference between being able to print something that looks like a mould, and printing an actual, usable production tooling. It's probably not feasible at any realistic pressure/temperature for injection moulding, but you would need to experiment with different resins and your own particular equipment. Generic, cheap resins almost certainly won't cut it, so you'd have to research engineering grade options. Also, it would depend on what you deem as 'acceptable' quality. For higher quality, you'll be extremely limited in terms of build size, or else looking at much higher end machinery. TL;DR: technically feasible, with a lot of caveats, but in reality probably more science fiction for modelling purposes.
  5. It's listed on the Pre-Order section of their website: https://www.elegoo.com/collections/pre-order And their social media activity for last week was all about how to pre-order the printer starting on the 10th. https://twitter.com/Elegoo_Official Plus, it's just the way Chinese tech companies do business: fund production via pre-orders, release beta units to influencers and early adopters, develop and iron out problems over time. I don't know when it will actually release, but based on experience, autumn seems a safe bet. Could be a little sooner, could be a little later, but I'd be shocked if it's in your hands within a matter of weeks. Just noticed, they're saying all the (early bird?) pre-orders will ship by August 30:
  6. It's not available. You pre-ordered for a delivery at some unknown time in the future (I don't think they've said when the pre-orders will start shipping). Again, it probably won't be released - shipped - until the autumn.
  7. It's not out yet, and probably won't be out until the autumn. So... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ If you want something sooner, either the Elegoo Mars 2 or Anycubic Photon Mono would be fine - they're functionally identical. You probably wouldn't want an Elegoo Saturn or Photon Mono X, as larger printers introduce other problems beyond the initial learning curve.
  8. Yes, this is higher resolution - 35um vs 50 um. Like the Phrozen Mini 4K
  9. More info here: https://phrozen3d.com/pages/sonic-mega-8k-preorder?mc_cid=be28bced69&mc_eid=65faf473c5 33 x 18.5 cm build plate @ 43um resolution. $1600 msrp (which is $1000 cheaper than the similarly sized but lower resolution Transform!) So yeah, kinda pricey, but definitely worth it!
  10. https://mailchi.mp/phrozen3d.com/8k-coming-soon Phrozen are teasing a new, 8K printer. From the teaser photo and text, it looks very large - my guess is in the 13.3 - 15.6" screen class, or roughly equivalent to the Transform or Epax 156. That would be upwards of 350 x 200 mm build area, but an 8K screen means it would have the pixel size of a Photon/Mars class printer. It'll almost certainly be spendy, but could be a game changer - you could print full-on kits!
  11. The factory settings should have been fine. If your supports printed but the part didn't, it means your support settings are wrong and need adjusted. Larger contact diameter and/or contact type. As a rule of thumb, the default Chitubox settings for 'fine' supports will always be TOO fine to print. You'll want to use medium or heavy (or change the defaults). Layer height won't really give you 'more' detail, per se. That's limited by the X/Y resolution of the printer. It will simply give smoother (or coarser) transitions between layers. The reverse side, around your supports... that's a standard problem. Watch this video for a really excellent breakdown of this, and may other issues: The solution is either orientation, or design. If your brake disc is 45` to the bed, you'll have supports covering the back, and will have a terrible finish on that surface. If it's perpendicular to the bed, with appropriate supports, it will print cleanly on both surfaces. Alternatively, you can tweak the design so that the two faces print separately, so you can optimize the orientation for each face. Lastly, IPA = Isopropanol = Isopropyl Alcohol = Rubbing Alcohol = Ethanol. You SHOULD be able to find it somewhere, locally, whether it's in a pharmacy, hardware store, paint store or electronics (component - think resistors and diodes and stuff) store. Barring that, denatured alcohol = methylated spirits = wood spirit = wood alcohol is a reasonable substitute and should be available in hardware stores, paint stores and camping stores (it's used for camping stoves). I would avoid acetone - apart from its higher toxicity, I'd be concerned with it degrading the acrylic components in the cured resin. A quick spray or rinse might be okay, but a longer soak could be problematic.
  12. Great way to get people to help you. To answer your question: manufacturers have material spec sheets. Use them. Or, since you have a printer, print it the part and see for yourself.
  13. So, much like the F-14 weapons, then. Not remotely as nice as Hasegawa's "recent" sets from the aughts, and not even better than the ones from the 80's. Shame they're not up to the quality of the rest of the kit, since a really high quality missile set would sell for years (if not decades).
  14. There is little to no difference in resins in terms of 'resolution'. Dark, opaque resins will theoretically perform a little better in terms of light bleed, but you won't see a dramatic difference in detail from one brand/colour/style to the next. Some resins will be more 'flexible' because they've got more plasticizer - "ABS Like" resins will bend more than 'standard' resins. "Water Washable" resins tend to be more brittle. Load-bearing items like undercarriage are best printed hollow, with wiring inserted for strength, if that's a concern. Basically, UV resins are pretty interchangeable for the most part, and the resin in a UV printer has similar properties to the normal two-part polyurethane resins you're used to dealing with in modelling. So, treat it the same way: you don't use a different resin for bombs, you're just careful not to damage them. As for clear resins... voxel and layer lines mean they're not great out of the printer. You can polish them out to a decent level of transparency, but they yellow with UV exposure, and will typically have a noticeable tint after post-curing. The following photo shows both of these effects fairly well - the woodgrain-like pattern on the upper part is from voxels + antialiasing while the lower has had a quick wet-sand and polish (emphasis on quick, hence the visible scratches). Note that these are solid prints; the effect is obviously doubled on hollow prints, since you get print artefacts on both the inside and outside of the print. Also note the bubbles trapped inside the lower print, which is a thing that often happens. And, of course, the yellow tint of the (clear) resin on top of (white) paper, from the post-cure.
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