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ICMF

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  1. You're confusing pixel size - X/Y resolution - with layer height - Z resolution. The two variables are entirely divorced from each other. Higher X/Y resolution doesn't need any more or less time, it just prints bigger pixels. Thinner layer heights (higher Z resolution) DOES effectively take longer, because you need to print more layers*. X/Y resolution is fixed on a printer - whatever screen you have, that's your resolution, and you can not change it. Layer height IS user configurable depending on the print, but this is the same on every mSLA printer - they'll all print pretty much the same range of usable layer heights no matter what the X/Y resolution is. There's a small caveat that a smaller pixel size might have a thinner ideal theoretical layer height, but in practice, it's not going to make much difference to the way users actually print with them. FWIW, actual exposure times will be lower, because you're not exposing as much resin at a time, but it'll be net slower because you've got to raise/lower the print bed more times, which takes most of the actual print time anyway.
  2. Phrozen is entirely based out of Asia.
  3. Apropos of nothing, it's a pity that's just a black and white rendering of the SEA camo, as I really like it as a 4-tone grey camo.
  4. I use an artist's palette knife. Razor thin and highly flexible, so you can get under the part with zero deformation or damage (unlike most putty knife style scrapers) and no chance of damaging the build plate, either.
  5. A few suggestions: Use an ultra-fine saw, rather than sprue cutters (something like a Tiger saw) Cut away from the part, then file off the excess. Remove supports before curing the part. Soak in hot water before removing supports, to soften the resin. Use finer support settings.
  6. Most likely it was confusion between mm/cm, as slicers use millimetres by default.
  7. It's a prop in a commercial for the manufacturer; it's almost certainly going to be from their own fabrication shop.
  8. You'll have more chances - Elegoo are working on a Mars 3 DLP (with larger build area and resolution), as are Phrozen.
  9. No. Just that they've pre-sold their allotment of kits, so they're not taking more pre-orders. I had it happen to the bombs set and F-4C while they were sitting in my cart (curse you again, procrastination!)
  10. It seems to have the extension. There is a panel line that runs around the fuselage, between the aft end of the canards and the front tip of the wings. On the AJ, both surfaces 'touch' this panel line - the canards stop at the line, and the wing root starts at it. https://plasticfantastique.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Saab-AJS-37-Viggen-header-001-768x402.jpg On the JA, the extension was added directly aft of this line, so the canards stop at the panel line, but the wings start (slightly) aft of it: https://www.armedconflicts.com/attachments/4461/IMG_20190405_140344.jpg Or another way to think of it: in plan view, on the AJ, the wings and canards look like they *just* touch; on the JA, there's a gap between them. This gap is particularly noticeable by the APU door, which also abuts the fuselage break line. On the AJ, the wing starts immediately aft of the panel line: https://plasticfantastique.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/SAAB-JA37-Viggen-Fuselage-007.jpg whereas on the JA, there's a space: https://www.armedconflicts.com/attachments/4461/IMG_7982.JPG Which shows us what to look for. The instructions seem to indicate there's a gap between the wing root and the fuselage break: https://scontent.fyyc2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/fr/cp0/e15/q65/236183119_877916949797258_4378205192386689638_n.jpg?_nc_cat=110&ccb=1-5&_nc_sid=8024bb&_nc_ohc=klam4FikwBQAX_1RuEc&_nc_ht=scontent.fyyc2-1.fna&oh=fa762ebb955b4c2d2f6af1fa259c9500&oe=615EDFBE (FB link, so, ugh...) Similarly, the gap seems to be present on the resin aft fuselage: https://i.ibb.co/5vqKcCr/23.jpg So... probably. Though without a test fit and measuring the actual parts, it's impossible to say for sure. Also worth noting, this picture https://i.ibb.co/hYzrZf5/Viggen-Large-Parts-Production-Status.png shows a couple of pieces that fit between the fore and aft fuselage halves, which some people have assumed was an insert for the fuselage stretch. I'm pretty sure they're not - they look to me like a couple of parts to help join the fuselage halves more securely - since they're too long, and don't actually form a complete circle (there's a cutout for the APU). That said, it's 'supposed' to be a normal Jaktviggen, but has the D cockpit; the decal options are a mix of original and upgraded airframes, so it's not 100%. ...and a couple of good walkaround pages here: https://plasticfantastique.com/walk_arounds/walkaround-the-saab-37-viggen/ and here: https://www.armedconflicts.com/SAAB-JA-37-Viggen-t3752
  11. Short answer: no. Not for the home user or to the quality you're looking for, and not without a CAD model to print. Long answer yes, but with a bunch of caveats. (specific professional machines/materials, you'd be better off printing a vac-form buck, the frames would be thick and clunky, you'd be farther ahead just paying someone to mask and paint your frames for you, etc. etc.)
  12. It'd be cheaper to buy a conversion set. Or a Growler kit with the various pods and sensors. My CAD work starts at $60/hr.
  13. It's a question of priorities. Some people stress the 'model' aspect of model kits, while others stress the 'kit' aspect. The Revell Phantom is a really nice kit - nice details, builds well - it's just not a very good model (poor accuracy, fidelity). Hasegawa is a pretty decent model, but at this point, it's not a great kit. While Fine Molds is a very nice model AND a great kit. Just depends on where your priorities lie. And there's no point getting sidetracked with an argument as to which is 'better', or insulting people that lean one way or the other.
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