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Angus Tura

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Everything posted by Angus Tura

  1. Adrian, I'm sorry to hear your news. I hope you're well soon or at least get a diagnosis. Alan
  2. Heollo. I'd like to add this drone. So, this is the Italeri F-104A/C, which I think is still the only F-104A in 1/72. The kit decals are on the left and on the right are Carpena decals for the QF-104A. These are at the top of the sheet and so are for the earlier paint scheme on these. Latterly I think they were international orange with black serials, but initially they seem to have been red-orange dayglo with white serials. There is quite a bit of quite confusing stuff about the colour on-line, as you can imagine. I like the more red colour and have gone for this fairly lurid number: Gunze C171 "fluorescent red". It's still a bit orange in spite of its name. In an effort to complete a GB on time I thought I wouldn't post till I'd got this well started. The box and bits picture above is 11 days old but work kicked off rather last week with Covid-absences and I've only now got this to the point of some paint: In the middle are bits to paint before completing construction. The seat has been brushed up a bit with extra belts and an ejection handle from sprue. The canopy needed some marks polished out with tamiya compounds and I'm sorry I didn't take before and after pictures. The most work has been blending the "A" tail and rear fuselage into the common front fuselage. This was glued on as best as possible and then the join filled/covered with stretched sprue and then sanded back and panel lines restored. I'm sorry I didn't photograph the stretched sprue stuck in but I'm pretty happy with the end result. It hasn't all been polished up because I'll have to repeat that on the centre-line joint and so forth. This week work is not kicking off for me at all. I'm stuck at home caring, covid-19 negative, for my covid-19 positive son...so I might progress this. Thanks for looking, Alan
  3. I can't do any better than repeating what Bertie and John have said. I have had too much on socially and work-wise to get this done this week. Your gentle chivvying has certainly got me further along than I would otherwise have done. I am also inspired to finally do the Dragon "fitted for wading" Churchill III in the Canada GB. See yous there maybe. Alan
  4. Patrice, Hello. Please put me on your list, Alan
  5. So I thought about the DS tracks, and read a bit about them again, and thought I'd use the Modelltrans ones. The kit sprockets are a bit too wide but thankfully they came apart with a bit of help: Then the tracks went on pretty well with heat from a soldering iron to persuade them round the sprockets and idlers. I didn't get the sprockets quite narrow enough and there are some gaps at the sides. I wanted to use the stowage for the glacis from the Black Dog set but its molded to fit the one piece front plate and not the rivetted one that "Carole" had. Here it is stuck on to the hull and then grooves for the rivetted seams carved out, and then a sausage of Magic-Sculp on the stowage and some clingfilm on the lower hull; mashed together and allowed to set and hey presto: There was also a space between the stowage and the glacis which I filled and only then realised that there should be some spare track-links in that gap. So I chipped out the putty and put the links in: The little putty sausages in front of the track-links is to make the edge of the tarpaulin there. Its a lot easier to sculpt after they are set and "fix" the edges. Here it is finished: The bar across the glacis was incompletely molded in the Black Dog set I had so there's a new one here from a strip of, I think, 20 thou. Its a bit bowed to fit, I'm afraid. I mentioned previously that I previously stalled in this kit because of the poor fit of the radio/counterweight boxes behind the turret-bustle. The problem with them is that the rearmost of them has no front wall and the radio box itself, the front box, isn't big enough to fill the hole. I didn't know then what I know now. Namely that bits of scrap plastic are a good filler. Here is the back box with the hole in its front made smaller. I also previously fretted about trying to keep the molded detail on the sides of the radio box. A visit to the "prime portal" Firefly walkaround let me know that the sides are completely featureless. I wanted to use this figure from Milicast, who, I think, is using his throat mike: The few pictures I've seen of the commander of "Carole" show him always in a helmet. So, that's been taken from one of these separate milicast heads and put on the full figure. The additional stowage is from Magic-Sculp and hasn't had it's straps put on at this point. After that it was just a matter of getting all the separately molded, and etched, details on.... There are a fair few, and they're tiny, and without the walkaround pictures I wouldn't have gathered how some of them went on. However, after several evenings slog, I got them all on apart from the guard on the base of the aerial. That ended up as a badly mangled albeit tiny, brass thing. I made a new one out of stretched sprue, which was also something of a trial: So here it is ready to paint: The stowage is based on the photo of the tank with link above. The three crates are by Black Dog and the straps on the stowage are from tomato puree tube. I was going just to use the kit 17 pounder barrel which is very nicely slide molded, but I managed to stick it on twisted. It's been replaced with this Aber barrel. I have massively enjoyed this so far. The kit is brilliant. Now some paint. Alan
  6. Very nice. I like the smallness of these 1/16th busts. Are you in acrylics? Alan
  7. I should have said too that I was inspired by this: Fantastic! Alan
  8. Hello. I'm a bit late to this party. I had hoped to do a British Mark 2 at Alamein by converting the Dragon 1/72 with bits from the Mirage Grant/M3 but the build for the Bombardment GB has taken/is taking a lot longer than I'd hoped. I was going to give this a miss until the Jubilee GB appeared. I had planned to do the Ace Model FV4005 for the Big and British GB but that can go in the Jubilee GB being completed in 1952. So I thought I would try to get this done/finished: I have in fact started it a lot of years ago as you'll be able to tell from the Modelzone price tag. I hope you'll think it doesn't break the 25% rule: I've assembled the hull and the road wheels. I think I stopped because I got completely bogged down with the counterweight boxes on the back of the turret. There are alternatives to these bottom right from the MR Modellbau equipment set which I'll probably use. I think I'll probably use the kit sprockets and tracks but the DS tracks don't get a good name, to put it mildly. I've got the MR Modellbau ones if the kit ones are as bad as some say. The subject is a bit done to death but I thought I'd build "Carole" as she appeared a week after D-Day: Carole-Scan-1.jpg (995×578) (ww2in172.com) Alan
  9. Thanks very much Col and James. I was looking in the chat a couple of weeks ago for an extension, Col, but didn't see one. Now it's only a week! So, I don't think I'll get done but will definitely do more. I was logging on this evening to post one last, completely built, photo and to say I'll continue in WIP in "Figures". I'll postpone that for the week anyway. Here's the photo: I thought I'd solder the flag to the mast as the soldered joints can be really small but still quite strong. Unfortunately the previous flag, of tomato puree tube isn't solderable, at least not at the temperature of my soldering iron. This is a new one of 0.125mm (5 thou) brass by Albion Alloys, flame-annealed on the cooker. The staff edge is rolled over a bit of 15 amp fuse wire leaving little sockets at top and bottom for the lanyard to go in. It took me three sessions of soldering to get the jack attached to the staff because of the heat-sink problem, but I'm really happy with it. Now...PAINT! Alan
  10. Ah me! Yet another DNF. The dread Mrs.T has egged me on to solder the jack-staff. I think she has designs on me doing some jewelry making. Here are the parts of the jack-staff soldered. I have to say that Mrs.T was right. I now love soldering. David Griffiths says one should tin each part with solder and then rig them up together and just touch the soldering iron on the joint and it fuses together. Mike McCabe says one should coat the iron tip with solder and then just run it into the joint. I couldn't get anywhere with either of these techniques. On line I found this: https://davidneat.wordpress.com/tag/guide-to-soldering-for-model-making/ . This worked. In short, this says to make a jig to hold the bits together and hold the iron such that it is touching both sides of the joint and then, when it's hot enough, just touch the solder into the fluxed joint. On the bigger bits there is a lot of heat sink into the part and I was surprised how close to the joints one needs the iron to get this to work. David Neat suggests tinning the tip of the iron with solder in that case. That does make the heat transfer to the parts better. I was worried that doing each joint in turn would loosen the joints already done but the proximity of the iron to the joint for the heat to get high enough seems to prevent that problem.....usually! Where I had two joints close together, such as where the crossbar sits on the joint of the upper mast and lower tube extension I got pretty hacked off with it. I hope I'm not teaching my grandmother to suck eggs, as it were. Here is the jack-staff in place with its stanchions held in place with a matchstick scaffold epoxied to the brass and trued-up with a new, and rather brilliant toy: a 36cm set-square. I could then take the jack-staff and stanchions off the boat but still held together at the correct angles, and solder them together. I hardly need tell you that this took more than one go. Here is the scaffolding half-off: Here is the jack-staff finished: The details of how the stanchions join to the staff with the cross-bar for support is from the piccy of SMS Hindenburg mentioned above...and that's as far as I've got. Here is my current state of play: I've started making the brackets to hold the stanchions of the jack-staff. The flag hasn't been wrinkled but I'm happy with how it rigs up of the jack-staff. Thanks Dave Swindell for that. Once it's properly on and painted I'm hoping that some tiny beads of epoxy in place of the blu-tac will work to hold the flag still. Once the stanchion-brackets are done I just need to add the outside walls of the guttering/tops of the hull plates, and it'll be done apart from the railing/cable, which can only go on once the jack-staff is permanently fixed. In looking at many photos I've come to the conclusion that the crest being on a separate shield is wrong. This is how it's portrayed in the Kagero plans but all the photos I've seen would suggest that the crest should be painted directly onto the hull plates. I do think that the separate part will have a better appearance and it'll certainly be a lot easier to paint. Sorry not to finish on time. I have massively enjoyed this GB. Making something from scratch is great and soldering is also great, albeit there both a bit time consuming. Thanks Dave for the gen and Col for the GB and thanks for looking. Alan
  11. Hello all. Not for the first time I realise that posting frequency is inversely related to amount of modelmaking done. Thanks Will. That is a fantastic website! I wonder where all these photos are found? IWM I suppose. I found the website a bit strange as it was very difficult to access any general page to understand what is being built. I think its a 1:200 Hood? Anyway, what a reference. The deck photos would certainly support the idea of sawtooth-shaped edge planks. I had a lot of trouble getting this to be symmetrical, such that the saw-teeth on the two sides were the same size, before realising that I needed to draw it based on the central plank. That's on the right here: I used a wikimedia picture of Von Hipper standing on deck with his staff to figure out the width of the planks. I've made them 3.5mm in 1/32. I also thought that the first effort (the centre one here) had too deep a division between planks. The second effort right and final deck left were done with a 0.5mm Tamiya scriber and look better. The scribing across the saw-toothed planks has been filled with styrene rod and then sanded flush. I had hoped to make the stem-post in such a way that there would be a panel line between it and the plates of the hull but that was never going to work. Instead I've stuck it on, filled with rod melted into the spaces with liquid glue, sanded it smooth and cut a new panel line just in front of the join with the P-cutter. I've cut another panel line on the lower plates as well. The step between the plates has been filled with a triangle of 40 thou edged with half-round 40 thou strip. The strip extends forwards to the stem-post. This worked really well further back but the front bit needed several attempts with plastic rod and 5 thou card fillers to get the starboard side symmetrical with the port. Eventually I resorted to Mr.Surfacer 1500 to try to mold the shape and not have to carve back so much. I also found that the p-cutter wasn't controllable enough here: the plasticard texture is different after multiple soakings in liquid glue. I've cut the horizontal-ish panel line with the tip of a rat-tail file. Here's the easier port side. I've painted it with Mr.Surfacer to compare more easily. I've also tried out stippling on the Mr.Surfacer 1500 here to see if that would work for replicating the "Krupp cemented plate". There are some not very good pictures of that on-line. I think its OK: It's going to take a bit of time to cover the whole thing in this. Here is all of the plasticard-work, as it were, finished. The strip above the step was a strip of 20 thou cut with the knife held at 450. Easy-peezy. It's a bit bowed unfortunately but the ship's crest which sits over the middle of this covers that quite well. On top of the stem-post is a block of bollards. This is well illustrated in the Kagero plans. The same web site as has the picture of the bow of Derfflinger (SMS-navy.com) has a close-up of bow of the Derflinger's sister-ship, SMS Hindenburg: SMS_Hindenburg-stbdbow-drydock.jpg (840×619) (sms-navy.com). This would suggest that the top of the stem-post should be much wider than the Kagero plans suggest. Whether the two ships were the same here I don't know. It's too late for me to change it anyway. Here's a box made to be the outside of the block. Then I built up what I could with plastic card. The tops of the bollards are two thicknesses of 40 thou. Then the spaces filled in with magic-sculp shaped with a wet finger and paint brush handle. The very nice people at the Leeds Model Shop let me rummage about in their back shop where I found these Billings-boats type fittings, albeit not by Billings Boats: These are two-hole railing stanchions and masts. I made this rivet factory out of magic-sculp with holes made with a rounded off bit of 1mm rod. Then rod melted with a cigarette lighter and shoved into the hole, and then the rivets cut off. Historex agents do have some rivets one can buy, but they're from Russia. Here is a bracket for the railing stanchions which is a bit of plastic rod, layers of 20 thou card and rivets: The figures are free-standing which is cool, but they're not sanding very straight on the shear of the deck. So I've sawed through their ankles, but not right through, and bent them about a bit. I tried sawing them with a hacksaw initially and it was making a terrible mess. Thankfully an X-acto razor saw worked fine and was a lot more controllable. Here they are with the gaps filled and arm on. The gaps have been filled with Devcon for stength and then drilled through to made a handle of brass rod to paint also. Here they are ready for paint. I've started their eyes. The jack I'm going to make out of my last bit of tomato puree tube. I must remember to eat more. I thought I should strip it of its covering which was easy with cellulose thinners. The inside of the tube is plated with some yellow metal or other and I can't shift it, but I don't suppose it matters. It's sized from photos at SMS-Navy.com at 45 x 73mm and the rope is a Caldercraft 0.75mm rigging cord also found in rummaging at the Leeds Model Shop. It's stuck on with epoxy resin. As long as the rope is taut, it holds the flag well but I'll need to fix the rope in some way when the flag's up or it wants to rotate about. So, so far it looks like this: Next up will be the jack-staff: The bits and pieces are the commercially made mast at the top. This is not long enough so the lower bit is some 3mm tube which will be the bottom of the staff. That will sit on the finial bottom right on top of the round bollard in the prow. The holes in the brass tube are for the two stanchion-tops so that the rails can run back both sides from the jack-staff. The hole in the mast is for the top of a smaller stanchion to take the top of the lanyard of the jack. The shallow-U shape is a cleat to tie on the lower end of the lanyard. It's made out of a bit of 1mm brass rod. The other bit is a bit of mashed up brass square to join the 3mm rod to the filial. I spent an entirely wasted day yesterday trying to solder. I'm going to start epoxying the bits of Jack-staff together today and should hopefully be able to complete the building over the next week. I doubt rather that I'm going to get it all painted by the 13th May but I can probably get the basic colours on the ship. Thanks for looking. Sorry for the length of post, and see you shortly, Alan
  12. Hello. This has been going on while work allowed. The next job was to get the panels on. For the upper panels I made a paper pattern and used a rolling set to get the flare at the top: Then ample slow-setting epoxy on the stringers and the panels were clamped at the front, and taped at the back and finally liquid glue lathered into the joins to bits of plastic: This worked well. I filled the whole of the flare on both sides with epoxy to make sure the curve stayed on. Paradoxically the lower, flatter panels have been a lot more trouble. I haven't put enough stringers in the lower part and the panels detached themselves from the stringers and needed clamping back on and more glue from the inside. More problematic has been convex, bowing-out of the lower panel on the port side. That was the first panel I put on and I hadn't learned that it was best to put the epoxy on the stem-post and the rear bulkhead after the panel was clamped on. Putting it on before the panel was in place made it difficult to get the panel to sit down in a straight line on the plastic formers. I think at least that that's why I had this problem. I've sort-of made a new stringer by clamping again with the panel already in place, and then feeding in 5 min epoxy from the inside to meet up with panel. This is not the easiest to photograph: This was really tedious, indeed is really tedious: I'm still doing it. It takes a lot of applications of epoxy before the glue makes a bridge between the centre line-plywood and the panel. Once it does it gets a lot easier and quicker. I could have saved myself this grief with an additional stringer. Thankfully the starboard side is OK. Meanwhile I've made up the ship's crests. These were cut with a compass cutter and a scalpel from 40 thou card and then edged with half-round 40 thou strip: Here they are with the hull plating nearly done and with the stem post with its new, 30 thou sides: The fit of the stem-post is poorer than I hoped and needs sanding flush with the panels on the hull. It has also needed a bit of fattening up in places. Here it is with 10 thou patches welded on with glue and stopped from sticking to the panels with baking paper. The strip at the bottom is the top of the hull panels where they form the outer side of the gutters that run along the deck sides. Here is the little bit of deck on which the figures will stand. This was 40 thou card with planks cut with an Olfa P cutter. I've made a paper pattern for it and then cut it to that size while trying to keep the planks centred. They're not quite right but I'll fatten up one side with a strip of 20 thou. I've marked the ends of the planks which don't reach the front of the deck, and cut those with the Olfa-P cutter also. Here it is in place, -ish. The Kagero book shows the planks on the edges to have a saw-toothed appearance to fit with the planks that don't reach the front. I'm not sure how accurate that is but its a pretty nice appearance. So, some of the plank-joints have been filled with 20 thou rod and then I can smooth them out. The deck is resting on a box composed of the cross member at the front, a cross piece at the back and the inside surfaces of the guttering. I will be some glad to get the deck finished, which will let me get the figures started, which was the point of the build. Thanks for looking, Alan
  13. Col. You are right, of course. Thanks for it. Alan
  14. Thanks Col., and Dave for the gen. Two steps forward and one backwards.... This has been a bit slow but progressing. I've found that the last few days' news hasn't increased my enthusiasm for making models of chaps planning to bombard innocents even if it was a hundred years ago. Here is my SMS Derfflinger so far. The main structure has had the stringers added and the cross piece at the top to make a flare out of the bows at the top. Beneath that, the triangular piece is the bottom to fix the bottom edges of the lower plates on the hull. Below that are two pieces from 40 thou card with half-round edges to mark that edge of the flaring. slow-epoxied to spruce stringers. The plastic surfaces will form the edges so that I can stick the plates, plastic-to-plastic quicker and , I hope, more securely. Below that is the prow post and a base. I've taken the sides off the prow post as you can just about see. This is the flare at the top of the bow, immediately below the deck. I had hoped to use 40 thou for the plating but that has been a worry because the 40 thou is tough enough to make it difficult to get it to curve as much as it needs. I had meantime been looking into the thickness of the bow plating on the real thing. I wanted to know this because the step half way up the hull between lower and upper plates is formed by the upper plate being bent outwards to rest on the lower plate, rather than being a separate piece. This is not clear in the Kagero plans but it is very clear in the photo of Jutland damage (link above): where the upper plates are blown out, they're clearly continuous with the step. So I needed to know the thickness of the plate which ends up at its bottom edge with the bottom edge facing laterally. I eventually found a note somewhere on line that the bows were in 30mm plate, which is scale 0.035" so I thought I'd use 30 thou + paint and that made me try 30 thou for all the plating and it's a lot easier. Unfortunately the prow post I made before had 40 thou sides and it'll stand much too proud of the 30 thou plates I'm now planning to use. So it's had its sides taken off and it'll need new side plates and re-finishing. Sorry to ramble on. Thanks for looking. Free ukraine. Alan
  15. You are not alone, James. The critical bit of this whole thing, I think, is going to be the shape of the rear bulkhead of the model as that will control the curve of the side plates, deck, &c. So, I started with that. The plans don't have a shape for that particular frame: 323. I've reckoned it as best as I could with pencil, ruler and eyeball. I thought it looked a bit wide at the bottom which begs the question, which I haven't previously had occasion to ask: "how pointy is a German WW1 battlecruiser?" The plans don't have any cross section at the waterline so I've photocopied the waterline plate of a 1/700 ship and blown that up: The expansion makes it pretty fuzzy but as we naval architects would say, I can see the "degree-of-pointiness", Dave (!). The forward-most transverse line is the back of the bulkhead. Here's the approximate shape cut out of 6mm plywood, and then a good deal of mucking about to figure out the curves. After a bit of trial and error, I've stuck the kabuki tape to the plan, cut along the plan, transferred that to the wood, carved it out with an X-acto 11 blade, or two (!), and then used one side to cut a tape-template for the other side to let them match. The very front-most bit seems to be separate from the side plates of the hull. I've no idea what this is called. Prow-post? Hopefully Mr.Swindells can correct all of this nonsense. I've cut the shape of the back of that based on the plans and more especially the 3D images in the Kagero book and made two of these. The front one I've built up with more plastic on a steel rule to ensure it's flat: This is the plate at the back, 60 x 80 thou strip, bit of plastruct gutter, 3/8" Evergreen tube and a half-round tube cut from the same 3/8" tube. The sides are 1mm card and there are strips of 60 x 40 thou to fill the spaces. It's exactly 15mm front to back. So, here are my basic shapes: The rectangularish bit of 6mm ply is the shape of the centre-line with a cut out for a block which seems to sit on the top of the prow and the angle of the top is the slope of the deck. The piece second right is the other copy of the plasticard on the back of the prow, epoxied to some 3mm ply and should form the shape of the front of the side plates of the hull. I thought then that assembling the pieces would be straightforward and initially it was, but then the horrible realisation that the plywood for the centre-line is a little warped and that the back and front surfaces of the rear bulkhead aren't exact. So then a lot more mucking about to get the front plate of the hull true to the bulkhead, and both vertical: As you can see the front-bit is well off to the starboard side of the supposed centre-line, but the front and back are true. I have not previously appreciated how helpful the grid on a Jakar mat is. Next up will be some stringers/formers fore and aft to support the side plates and starting the guttering at the sides of the deck which should also serve to support the tops of the sides. I thought I might make some lead-shot weights up to make it more stable but once its on this little base, I'm not sure it'll need that. I might retire to KUTA 2021 for a couple of days to let my poor fingers recover. Alan
  16. What squalor? At her age, and addicted to gaming, albeit with a piquet-pack of cards, I would have considered that quite tidy. Great figure, Brian. Everything about it is good but I particularly like the way you've staged it on the rectangular base. I would never have thought of that. I'm inspired, Alan
  17. Colin, This looks great. I once made the Mach 2 Vostok 1.and whenever I think about trying another Mach 2 kit I try to force myself to remember the reality of making that one. So, I'm full of admiration for the rapidity of your progress! I'm looking forward to seeing this done, Alan
  18. What nasty, dirty minds you all have. The join between second inter-stage and second stage was very uneven and has been levelled out with epoxy putty and clingfim: The worst thing so far has been hollowing out the rocket nozzle. This has been drilled, carved and eventually bashed: I didn't want to do this with a power tool, especially because of heat effects, but I have used the mini-drill to smooth it out. Here it is with the other bits: The second inter-sage and warhead/REV are a poor fit so I've re-etched that join and filled the joint of the parts which is the black line above the re-etched line. The black line on the first stage has also been filled. The filler has been thin cyanoacrylate with zip-kicker. Now it's ready for paint: See you later, Alan
  19. Good Morning. It's the weekend of the great british birdwatch, as many of you will know. There is a cat, whom I particularly dislike, sitting under my bird feeders....so, I thought I'd post this. I didn't really mean to start another build until I've progressed Scarborough 1914 AD a bit further. However, the other day I was working from home and the software supplied is so slow to load each event that, between events, I sort of accidentally started this: I've built a couple of these Belcher Bits missiles previously in group builds, both of which got finished, but without decals. One is currently in KUTA 2021. The two missiles on the left are the Belcher Bits Polaris A1 and Polaris A3, and the plan has been for a Trident II to fill the other half of the base. The Trident is a lot bigger than the Polaris. These kits are pretty nice but they all seem to suffer from a problem in resin casting in getting the cylindrical bits of the missile to match up. So, they need a bit of sanding: It's also a bit of a job to get them straight. I've tried to get a hole truly centred in the lowest part of the body of the missile with a compass cut disc which serves to mark the centre of the body parts. I then really carefully drilled a hole with twist drills in a finger vice. This worked pretty well but only went up to 2mm diameter and a 2mm rod, for the base, is too wobbly. I've resorted to this: being a 3mm bit in a mini-drill. Thankfully this followed the hole made with the twist drills pretty faithfully: Then the sticking of the rod to the base: Then taped to the set-square to let me flood the joint with glue from below. The perspex rod it entirely impervious to Tamiya liquid glue, but this EMA stuff sticks the perspex rod to the polystyrene base really well. So far: I know, I know! It has an unfortunate appearance currently. This is causing considerable hilarity at Schloß Tura. The dread Mrs.Tura says, "you're not putting that on the mantlepiece....does it take AA or AAA batteries....&c. &c." I'm hoping that paint and decals might render it less alarming. Thanks for looking, Alan
  20. Dave, Thanks for that. I was a bit troubled by the improbability of anyone being on deck on arriving off Scarborough. To set this, as you say, in that moment of departure for Scarborough would be better. Not having to heart-search about modelling waves breaking over the bow is definitely a boon. It is also a boon to know the flagpole is called a Jack Staff and not a Bowsprite. I love that second picture you've posted. I don't think its Derffinger: there's no B-turret and the secondary armament was above the main deck on the Derfflinger. Whatever, it would make a marvellous model in 1/700. While I've got you, do you know a reference for how the Jack would be rigged up to the Jack Staff? That is to say, where do the ropes go? TIA, Alan
  21. Hello. This groupbuild has crystallised an idea that has been swimming around for me for, literally, years. Here are a couple of Hecker and Goros 54mm figures: I do love these figures. They are properly 54mm, or 1/32 scale. The officer has been in my stash for ages but the rating I just bought. I have thought that the officer would be good posed on/in a wedge or section of a battleship to contrast his puniness with the massiveness of the industrial-military complex. I had thought too that I'd like the battleship to be the battlecruiser SMS Derfflinger, because it has the coolest crest. This GB has made me think about possible figures involved in bombardment, and how I might continue with a Yorkshire theme. On 14/12/14 the German battlecruiser group sailed over the North Sea to bombard towns on the East Coast of England, in the hope that the Royal Navy would give battle. Derfflinger and Von der Tann split from the other battlecruisers which sailed towards Hartlepool and Whitby. Derfflinger and Von der Tann sailed south to bombard Scarborough. So, I thought that would make a pretty cool build. I have given a lot of thought as to where to put the figure on the ship. I thought that it would be easiest towards the stern, especially as the freeboard is least there. I got the Derfflinger plans book above to think about this and, having failed to find a place on the ship towards the stern where there wasn't a massive amount of deck stuff to scratchbuild, have ended up thinking that the easiest place to do would be right in the prow. That will let me have the crest which appeared where you might think the name of the ship would go. The bow will also be structurally the easiest, or at least least difficult, bit to make. It begs the question as to, "what these chaps would be up to standing on the prow just as they got to Scarborough?" As they were hoping to draw the British out to fight I think that it's credible that the Derfflinger would be flying its battle-flags. The model then is going to be of two of the crew of SMS Derfflinger off Scarborough at about 8am on 14/12/14. They have just hoisted a battle flag on the bowsprite. I've expanded the relevant bits of the plans in the Kagero book to 1/32 scale. That is x 11: Looking around, on-line, I also found a very helpful close-up of battle damage to Derfflinger after the Battle of Jutland: https://www.sms-navy.com/bc/SMS_Derfflinger-BatDam_21Jun1916-3.jpg . There are also a number of photos to find with details of planking, rails and guttering on Kaiserliche Marine ships from the period. The Kagero book has really useful 3D plans of some of the deck fittings also. The stem of the ship is 24.2cm in the plan above and I did think this was too high to be manageable but the battle damage photo above shows the boot-topping about 20 scale centimetres below the deck which I think will be better. Allowing for the bow wave, I think it will look OK: So, that's the idea. If anyone has any tips about bow-waves in 54mm, I'd be really glad to hear them! See you soon, Alan
  22. I didn't vote, Tony, but that is definitely the right one I should say. Alan
  23. Pete. Thanks for your erudition. I weakened and looked this up. 'Turns out, "polaris" is an adjective...so, it doesn't really have a plural. 'Serves me right for cleverdick-dom. Anyway, the X-7 has its ramjet and pylon molded in one and I thought it would be easier to paint (i.e. not mask,) if the pylon were on the airframe and the ramjet separate. This has been two holes drilled through the pylon into the missile to take the brass rods; pylon and engine separated, cutting on the pylon side; reassembled over the brass rods and then the lower bit of the pylon rebuilt with magic-sculp. The trolley for the X-7 has cross members which stop the fuselage sitting in its cradle because the ramjet fouls the cross members. On "modeling madness" there's a build of this with the cross members carved out a bit but I couldn't get the ramjet low enough thereby: So, I ended up just dividing it: I've subsequently taken out the front cross bar to let the missile sit further forward on the cradle. Here they all are ready for some paint: The X-55s (white cruise missiles) have just been sanded smoother and the fit of the X-55M to the trolley improved. The X-7 tail has been completely re-assembled after another tiny, and probably fortunate, crash into herself's new vinyl floor. The round white bases on the X-7 and X-55M are just 40 thou/1mm plasticard discs cut with a P-cutter compass. They'll be asphalt-ised. The tomahawk in launch-mode has had its connection to the missile silo replaced with perspex and made longer. See you later. Alan
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