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Angus Tura

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Everything posted by Angus Tura

  1. Thanks Brad. Here's the canopy pre-surgery , and post surgery with a tamiya razor saw. So, the windscreen and the fixed canopy fit but the sliding canopy needs a bit of help. After a lot of sanding of the inside of the canopy, and a little sanding of the spine, it's pretty close. Here it is with a bit of Samsung-pen work. The canopy needs to drop down a bit more and, looking at online pictures, I think the top of the windscreen and the top front edge of the canopy should
  2. Thanks Brad. The wheel-well filling has worked OK, but only OK. Some of it is gap free, but some of it's a bit gappy. So, I've repeated and it looks pretty good. I've had a problem of the putty not sticking well to the putty: it sticks well to the plastic as long as you get it on shortly after mixing the putty. There's a few bits to Mr.Surface. Next: the canopy Alan
  3. Hi. I started this last night. This is a dentally aware model. I've been trying to get a centurion tank finished in the Anzac GB but it's hard work. I got my teeth drilled out a week ago and had no idea how much pain that was going to give me: I am regretting all of the soor plooms and other boilings of youth. Anyway, I really couldn't concentrate on the centurion last night and have wanted to start this for a bit. I have some Kit-World decals for this somewhere and a photo of a PR.19 at Leuchars and want to have a go at that. The kit is really ni
  4. Hi again. Here is the Gunze metal primer in action. I should say that this is Mr.Metal Primer and not Mr.Metal Primer-R, which looks more opalescent. This is a bit of etch frame stuck to the unused skirt of the RAAC centurion, It's been brush painted with the primer and then sprayed Mr.Color C303. Very easy peezy. The paint does seem to stick really well and doesn't fall off with flexing the etch a bit. I'm pretty pleased with the colour match between the metal and the plastic too. I don't want to undercoat the tank b
  5. Thanks Scargsy. I haven't tried spraying over the gunze primer yet but it certainly goes on easily. It seems to clean up very easily with lacquer thinners and it doesn't seem to damage anything else. I'm hoping to try out spraying later. Meantime this goes on OK. 1 month to go on this GB. I have noted a new problem of the mudguards. I've put these pins on to let me take them on and off while painting/weathering the running gear, but only just noticed that putting the running gear on is going to stop them going on and off: The f
  6. ...Later. I was completely wrong about the FV4005 boxing: it doesn't have spare turret boxes, more's the pity. These have been resuscitated therefore with bits of plastic, and Mr.Surfacer 500 and a lot more sanding and they now look OK. I'm mostly just posting to post. All of the bits on this have sink marks and mold lines and frankly its hard work. I do also have a horrible feeling that the Dragon Mk.1 will appear as soon as I'm finished. Anyway so far: and, I've been fretting about priming the tur
  7. I know what you're saying. I actually got confirmation of an order being sent last week...from OKB Grigorov! I'll ask again on e-mail. I have had a few orders at Tanks and Troops. They're good, but you don't need to be in a hurry. What they have on the website and what they have in stock are two different things. Alan
  8. Hi. Turret fettling a go go. I've stuck together the very centuriony turret boxes and then over sanded them so they've all gone a bit wonky. They're not very well molded. Luckily I have this in the stash: It has a set of the turret boxes in spite of the fact that it has a different turret. So, I'm going to have another go. The turret basket is a bit fiddly but it is pretty beautiful. Here is a little jig to get it squareish. I couldn't get it completely square because it's not completely square! Here are some bits and p
  9. I've just caught up with this Sardaukar. Great choice. I have thought about this build also but never bought the kit: I didn't know that the kangaroo decals come with the kit. That's a boon. I feel your pain with the tracks. I was trying to get some tracks from OKB too, for the Panzer III GB: OKB: "so - new regulation by " UK government elected by UK sensitized who know (not like us) what democracy is" prevent small business to work/export to UK" Angus: "What to do?" OKB: "Well if your order is over 135 UK's money we can ship it and you will ha
  10. YOU WOULD NOT LET IT LIE. Angus Tura's Big Night Out.
  11. Hi. I'd like to add another 1/72 scale Panzer III. I've been slightly obsessed with Russian heavy tanks since the VE/VJ-day GB last year, which lead me to this book, which contains a single photo of a recently knocked-out Panzer III, the KV-1E which has done the knocking out, and some Russian chaps in greatcoats. It would make a good diorama. I don't think I'd better post the photo from a copyright point of view. Please let me know if that's wrong; it's frustrating. I have made this very zoomed in copy, which I think will be OK as it could be practi
  12. Hi, Sorry for the delay on this. I finally picked it up again. There is no clearance at all between the mudguards and the tracks and the fit of the mudguards is not very confident. I've taped them on and drilled holes to take brass pins which will make it easier to fit the mudguards after the tracks are all done. The turret needs considerable fettle. See you later. Alan
  13. I'm on for this, Pat. Bright orange 1/72 Privateer in mind. Alan
  14. Thanks Col. It would have been time well spent....if I hadn't managed to break the second resin buckle off. Here is Mk.2: Both buckles now fusewire. After a lot of time-consuming mucking about I found that bending the wire over the corner of a hold-and-fold actually makes making the buckles quite easy. I have also added a brass pin to the wrist to hold it for painting and to secure it. The lever of the Martini-Henry broke before I even got it off its resin block. The new one is more, heavier, fuse wire flattened and bent with some pliers. Photographing things f
  15. Pat and Andy: I am here to tell you that they do not like it up 'em. You could be forgiven for asking why I'm posting the exact same image of this build as last time: Although there has been very little progress there has been a lot of time-spent. I've filled a bit of a defect in the right arm and carved up the pegs on his feet to start base-making. Mostly however, I've been making a strap for his Martini-Henry out of empty tomato puree tube. When I was a kid-modeller, I used to get very annoyed at older modellers writ
  16. That chopper looks lovely, missus. I think your spokes work really well. I hadn't seen AB figures before. Very interesting. I see that AB calls them 20mm. Are they really 20mm, i.e. 144cm tall, or 4'9", in 1/72? Not exactly Ubermenschen. Alan
  17. Put me down for this please, Pat. Would you now delete me from the Luft.'46 thing, for crying out loud? Alan
  18. Yes please, Col. Airfix MiG-17 with AZ Stolichnaya decals. Alan
  19. Ben, this is just looking fantastic. I am really looking forward to the painting-bit and I'm really looking forward to seeing the M/C. They are a bit tricky in 1/72. Alan
  20. Cliff and all, thanks. I'm not sure about "masterclass", Cliff. It can surely only qualify as a "class" if it gets finished, unlike every other previous attempt. He's "54mm" but actually a touch over 60mm. So, about 1/30. That
  21. The U-331 would be pleasantly outre. The FW-190 sand and blue colours are affy fine. Alan
  22. Long ago, when Col. suggested this GB I said I was glad that there wasn't a time limit...so, I'd better do this build/paint. The British occupied Egypt in 1882 and stayed until 1956. There were many objections to this state of affairs, one of the earliest being the Mahdist Rebellion which culminated in Gordon's death at Khartoum and the relief of Khartoum in1885. The battle of Tamaai in 1884 was a defeat for the Mahdists but only after they had broken into one of the British squares. They were repelled by the Black Watch and by the 1st Battalion of the York and Lancaster Regiment.
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