Chief Cohiba
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Posts posted by Chief Cohiba
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Well, the deck needs some gentle persuasion, as predicted...
The wooden deck didn't stick consistently over the entire surface, so I applied some CA with a needle where it's warped (took no picture, though). It seems to hold now, so fingers crossed.
If it does stick, the deck went on easily without mayor surgery, I'd say. I don't want to remove it again, which I can't imagine would work.
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Next will be mounting the deck to the hull. Is it called "marriage", as with cars, when the body meets the engine?
Anyway, I expect issues. There is a "slight" inside warping of the hull, so the deck is considerably wider than the hull...
Oh, and the guns are mounted...
These parts are real nice.
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Few days off the bench, but at least managed to do a bit on the deck. Anchor chains are mounted, and the wooden deck has been applied.
Details from the anchor:
And the wooden deck.
The deck went on without mayor hussle, just removing the protection sheet from the back was a bit fiddly.
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14 hours ago, Mike said:
several billion years in our tiny short measurement scale.
I guess I could commit to that...
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1 hour ago, ArnoldAmbrose said:
We'll hold you to it.
I didn't provide a detailled technical sound or legally binding definition of the term "soon", did I? 😄
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6 hours ago, Alun Gallie said:
From very early research seems 1/350 and 1/700 are reasonably common submarine scales ?
Yes, I would say so, at least I can speak for 1/350. I like sometimes a nice and easy submarine build, also nice if you are in need of some Mojo-build, to get back on track again.
As Jeff already mentioned, in 1/700 these are quite small, and might become a bit undistinguishable, and I don't know about coverage of different topics. In 1/350 there's a lot available, from tiny TypVII to Typhoons, in different levels of details.
Vendors with a certain range are Hobby Boss, and Zvezda, mostly with modern day submarines, and there are other vendors as well. Supply and coverage is quite good in this scale, I'd say. Level of detail in most cases is fine, but not many parts, some models are more challenging than others, but nothing really imopossible to manage. Usually the long seams are a challenge, but nothing you wouldn't find in other areas, e.g. civil planes, as well.
Most fun to me is finishing, from depicting kind of a wafy effect when diving lose to the ground, to heavy weathering with salt lines and hull grime galore.
I recently finished a Vanguard from Bronco and the Kursk from Zvezda, but haven't done an RFI yet. Will do soon, I promise...
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10 hours ago, ArnoldAmbrose said:
beauty is only skin deep 😁
Thanks, Jeff!
In this case the "skin" is the 1/350 equivalent of a 80mm steel deck, enough to cover up all of this ugliness. It holds it's weight, so I'm ok with that.
In the meantime I also repainted the hull, so I finally can move on to the deck, only thing left to mount is the lower deck 4.1 guns. Yay!
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And, it seems to work. Here's apic from the side:
and from the bow (sorry for the poor picture, was taken in a rush):
And here's the ugly side of things - but it seems to hold it:
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Baseplate is mounted and waiting for the putty, CA and other elements of bonding I did throw at this to harden.
It did go surprisingly well, most helpful where the strips I glued in to give the frictional connection, but also to create some positive locking. (is that correct?)
I guess I'll give it a minimum of an hour to rest, before I dare an test stand.
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Now the holes are widened sufficiently, it's for the counterparts on the inside; the bolts that will hold the M4 screws.
In the past I simply glued them at the bottom of the hull from the inside. This will work when the bottom is rather flat, e.g. as with some large submarines.
But as the bottom of the Emden is quite uneven, the bolts will most likely be not in parallel, but somewhat twisted, like this:
Solution would be to mount the bolts on a flat base plate, like some stronger piece of styrene, to ensure the bolts are aligned.
With this uber-complex construction mounted with the help of some levelling element (a.k.a. "putty") it might not 100% in the right angle, but at least parallel , which is more visible.
That's the plan for today, I already started with the base plate end the two bolts glued in with some superglue to some cornering strips, to prevent them from moving while fumbeling it in.
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And, current state of the deck:
Still no wood mounted, but painted the structure. A few small bits have to be done before I slap on the wood deck decals and mount it.
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On 3/22/2024 at 2:08 PM, TallBlondJohn said:
The hull join will crack, trust me
And it did, of course. Just as I tried to widen the holes for the stand, as I plan to mount it to a base plate by some M4 screws, which didn't fit in the existing holes.
Fortunately it cracked only in the middle, not on the bow and stern, so glueing it back together was quite easy. It left some marks, though...
Some more filling will be required before respraying, but at least the M4 fit now.
To make sure that the screws are aligned, I plan to create a little structure from the inside, which then will be fixed with epoxy. but I have to have the structure first...
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I once experienced one of these beasts - maybe even a bit older one - to start up, and this was an almost outworldly experience.
It took about 10 min to heat up the engine (with a small hearth put under the engine) and it's first signs of life were low loud blasts, accompanied by deep black clouds pumped out in slow sequence of the funnel (somehow the term "exhaust" this thing doesn't sound right to me), the first minute or so running maybe in 60 rpm, slowly revving up to 300 rmp of working speed.
This is some 6l single cylinder two stroke engine, with a max power of some 16hp, but torque like a herd of elephants.
I'm not interested in trucks or agricultural equipment at all, but this model sure is fun. I have the slight feeling this will almost unavoidingly land in my stash. Must be weathering heaven, maybe a dio with some cows and muck galore...
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As the Spitfire has mentioned so often, I'd also like to mention the Langnasen-Dora, to throw in some German plane as well
To me, I'd care more about the Nose-Art for that matter... 🤗
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And, as promised, here's a shot from the deck.
The colour is officially called "Schwarzrot", means "blackish red", well. "Chocolate Brown", as some call it, matches the image better, I'd say. Other descriptions might match it as well, but I don't want to get a slap on my fingers from the mods for bad language.
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2 hours ago, TallBlondJohn said:
slap some epoxy along the inside
Good plan, I guess will do.
Not sure, though, if it will be enough, as the entire hull seems someone warped, but let's give it a try. Just after the nuts for the stand will be mounted (which the epoxy can hold as well).
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22 hours ago, ArnoldAmbrose said:
underwater hull has come up pretty good I think
Well thank you, sir! Not finished yet, and a lot of chances to mess this up, but it's somewhere to start.
22 hours ago, ArnoldAmbrose said:once a decision is made, go with it
I'm afraid, I can't promise that! 🙂
Need an example? See, a few posts earlier I mentioned that I will look for a deck colour that tones the RAL 3007 of the linoleum down, to make it a bit weathered and sea-beaten (and also to avoid buying another colour doing just one trick). Think of some midtone brownish red, a bit like on the hull, but - different.
And then I found out that the Vallejo "Marron Rojizo"( more famously know as "Hull Red", No 37), I have in my stash for those submarines, is the very equivalent of RAL 3007, as I read in some conversion chart.
Now, make an educated guess what that meant to the lifecycle of my former decision...
Exactly!
Ka-Boom, it goes!
I post some pictures when I'm back home, but let me tell you; that's bold!
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Spent some time investigating and I think it is safe to say that all the fore and aft deck was covered in linoleum, means dark red.
Let's call it a decision made...
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Dryfitting of the deck. Honestly looks better than I was afraid of...
That is the bow section I'm especially afraid of:
Also marked the area of the linoleum cover of the bow section, which has - in my plans - to be painted red.
I am not totally sure,though, if not only the upper deck in the mid section and the gun base have to be covered in wood, means entire bow and aft deck has to be finished red.
This calls for some more clarification, any input here is welcome.
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I guess that's the state of hull for now:
(sorry for the poor picture quality, lighting at night is quite poor for pictures).
The joints are quite brittle, which is another drawback compared to the strip method, so I guess it will require some refinish after the deck is mounted. This will require some bending, as it is very tight.
Also it takes some clever thoughts about the order of the next steps - definitely not like in the manual, with all the aftermarket parts to be installed.
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7 hours ago, ArnoldAmbrose said:
glue strips of scrap polystyrene
That is, of course, the much more elegant way! I definitely will consider with the next one of this shape. (The Viribus Unitis I have seems to have perfect fit, though)
I must say I got caught off guard, as I fit didn't seem that bad when dryfitting, but obviously my testing was a bit on the quick side. But anyway, it seems to hold now and sanding is in the final stage (yes, I know, famous last words...)
Just a spray of red, the waterline decals which I prepared and then on to the next adventure; mounting the deck. Dryfitting already showed, that this will be a nightmare.
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Oh boy, fit of the fuselage halves is - interesting! This requires a fair share of gap-filling...
Here the state:
And, even more putty smeared inside - not only to fill the gaps but also to simply hold it together.
This will produce some dust....
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4 hours ago, Bandsaw Steve said:
If you have a really high reputation score I think it earns you….
absolutely nothing…
Well, I have experienced the number of bad-hair-days reduces by 50% with a higher reputation, police in traffic control is considerably nicer and more forgiving, and the karma counter reaches rankings one would never have seen possible just before.
And, of course, chances are, you will be born a much more beautiful creature in next live.
That's nothing? 😇
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1 hour ago, Andreas.R said:
alternative would be with MICRO KRISTAL CLEAR to try
Good point, many thanks. I will give it a try at one of my next orders at one of the usual waterholes.
There are simply two cons on this;
- I have tons of clear resin bottles left.
- The chance of mistaken it with Mikro Set is quite high! 😉
But given the usual high usability of the Micro products I guess it's worth the modest investment.
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From Kiel*) to Eternity - Revell's Emden in 1/350
in Work in Progress - Maritime
Posted
And, it went together:
Well, that's the basics, a lot of minor (or probably larger) correction works on details are to be made, like glueing the deck in properly, close some gaps, and so on. But it holds it's weight and looks a bit like a ship;