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Chief Cohiba

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Everything posted by Chief Cohiba

  1. And, after some time of hardening of my pretty little beauty device, it's done. It's not perfect, especially the square windows didn't turn out so well, as the resin didn't flow into the corners too well - must be something like viscosity or whatever - but I'm rather happy for a first, given the limitations of lack of knowhow and not perfect tools. I guess I'll get me a bigger lamp for the next time, as I could hardly fet one body half under the lamp (we're talking 1/144, right) and another is thicker needles. (I guess I haven't mentioned it above; I used small syringes for applying the resin). But again; it's ok for a first, and can now continue putting all the interiour bitsies inside and close the halves.
  2. This is a bit more timeconsuming than I thought, as it brings a better result to build it up in at least two steps; first, fill the hole with resin and create a full, clear bottom, and let it thoroughly dry. In a second step then build up the concave porthole. The process can be quite good controlled by switching on the UV lamp in the right moment. Up to that it the resin will very slowly flow. At least I managed one side...
  3. After some testshots on with the model. Here's the preparation of the starboard side, backing strip applied and waiting for the separation agent to dry...
  4. Didn't get much further than a few test shots, but slowly getting there: I thought I could skip it, but it is key to make the windows in two steps, and to do a proper backing from the inside with a plastic strip with some separating agent, only kabuki tape - as I did on the uper row - is not enough. When pulling away it does leave a hazed surface, leading to a dull result. But the clear resin is quite easy to handle, hope I can finish the windows tomorrow, or at least make some leap forward!
  5. I feel like starting a beauty business: Doesn't this add some welcome feminine touch to our rather masculine hobby?
  6. Welcome from Vienna, great to have you on board. May I very gently warn you - this might beome addictive! I tried to switch to diecast/finished models collecting (I have gathered a few cars, though) as well, but it's not the same for me. I need all the little details, like rigging or weathering, as well as all the little extras that cost you ages and is barely visible on the ready model. And yes, time is an issue (I run a small IT company, so a limited resource here). To save some time I have some 1/144 models on the bench, like the rather exotic Mil 6 right now, but even this costs time... Anyway - welcome to the ward!
  7. After a while I felt like doing a bit on this again - I spent some times in the east and thought I could go on and channel my inner comrade a bit. A few things have moved on - not all for the better, I must say - but didn't make too many photos, sorry guys. So, I only can picture the current state: What i did so far was the following; I did some pre-painting, rather a pre-washing with thin acrylic colour from a pen-brush, to be precise, which was a first for me. The result is ok, but I think the next time I go for the classic airbrush-preshading. Then opened the windows with a 2.7 drillbit (got one for this), and when trying to dry fit the window parts found out they don't fit and already lost two of the pieces. Sh... ame! I then dried to go with the good old Humbrol clearfix, but this never was a friend of mine and neither was this time - the result was horrible, tiny bubbles all over, uneven, drawing threads all over, and by no chance I could create the typical bubble shape of the windows. So - also a new for me - I will try some clear resin with an UV hardening lamp. Whish me luck, folks. Then, another new for me: I used Vallejo Model Air colours to give it a hue of Russian Blue Grey from my Flogger set, and - well. I guess it takes a bit more practise, but these are ok. I don't get the right mixture straight away, but I just gave it a try and dropped some water in, about a quarter to three quarters of colour, and it was ok. That was quite a shot from the hip, as i didn't find any reference on these on my quick check. Tomorrow I'll give the resin a try, we'll see....
  8. Definitely will do! I keep them save and sound for now in a box (man, are those fragile), but will have them out to thoroughly harden before washing and then painting.
  9. And as it goes along; I just couldn't help but show an excerpt of my 1/48 WWI themed stash with more exotic birds. It's not only Albatrosses and DRIs, but really great kits of some more interesting types - Special Hobby is quite active, Gaspatch' Salmson has almost WnW quality, and Roden has some quite nice two seaters. Not included are the Fly Pfalz, and Eduards "Du doch nicht" package with 3 of Udet's birds in one package. I'm sure there's a lot in 1/72 out there as well, but I found my home in 1/48... Oh, and if you noticed, there are two "Viribus Unitis" kits in this heap. I do have some patriotic tendencies sometimes in this matter.
  10. I told you, this won't be a quickbuild, didn't I? Last time I posted that I bought the Micromasters set via Shapeways. It states on the Website it takes some weeks to finish it. Well, it doesn't. Arrived today, none of the boxes for extra speed ticked on purchasing. And man, do these look great. It's hard to take a picture, due to the transparent material, but trust me, these are gems. Compared to the kit's part - well, no comparison. Just great!
  11. Might I try to add something from my little box of tricks to this absolutely promising build? For tiny rods, pushes, tubes (if one doesn't have to show the holes) I usually use electric guitar strings. I usually have lots of them around used from my other hobby, but can be bought online or any store for about, I don't know, 10,- $ or so. The higher strings are plain, and the thicker wound, which can be used as hose lines or the like. Also a perfect tool for pushing through sealed CA glue bottles. Can't live without. Will shut my mouth now and follow quietly from the back row, if I might sneak in late.
  12. ..I just stumbled across this, I might get one for mine: http://www.begemotdecals.ru/showpos.php?&lang=2&pic=2&id=114 Just in case you don't want to stick with the kit's theme limitations. It's 79 options included.
  13. I should remark in addition, that it's a comic, not to cause any disappointments when you expect a serious piece of literature, not really Shakespeare that is...
  14. Well, it was, in the sixties to eighties it is said to be quite an active spot of informal information exchange, so to say. I was more thinking to one to two decades earlier, when eastern Austria was occupied by the Soviets, though. I imagine a scene, when my grandma learned some of that, like holding a basket of cobs, and a russian soldier approaches her, pointing to it, uttering "Kukuruz", and my grandma passes one to him. So she learned, I guess, and when she asked little toddler me, if I want to have a corn on the cob, she would have use the term. So I learned, I guess... Btw, talking inspiration; did you read Romain Hugaults "The Grand Duke"? It''s about a pilot starting at the Night Witches and includes some great pictures of PO2s as well. I might adopt one of these heavy weathered single olive drab schemes on my build. Your build is quite fast, I might add...
  15. Oooh, I'm late - is there a place left somewhere? Sit on the stairs as well... I got one of these "Kukuruzniks" in my stast as well, and think also about doing a night witch bomber. Maybe another scheme don't know yet. Fun fact, the german word for corn is "Mais", but in Vienna and surrounding Eastern Austria "Kukuruz" is very often heard. I've learned just during the some research for this PO, this is most likely because Vienna was in the Russian zone after the war, and the natives adopted it. When I was a kid I thought "Kukuruz" is the proper german word for corn.
  16. I guess it depends of how much time one can spend for modelling, of course, so I agree that the timeframe I mentioned is not sound, or a solid base for comparison. To me it is something I have much lesser time for than I would like to have, so my builds do take much longer, with time for work, wife, usual stuff, compared to someone to whom modelling is a full time hobby. But let's agree that say a 1/32 WNW Camel takes significantly longer than a Eduards Weekend Edition one in 1/48.
  17. For that I'd definitely say go for 1/48, the range of available aircraft and accessories is the biggest, and if you go for a broader number of planes the ratio between build time and quality of the model is from my perspective ideal. You might get most of the types in 1/72 also, but it's very hard to build a convincing model in that scale (though possible), and in 1/32 you could build a museum piece, but a build could take a year or more. Also, now that WNW is out of business, the supply with more interesting planes is limited. Only issue in Quartescale is, that there is only limited accessories for dioramas available, but if that's not the goal, then no worries. There is a lot of accessories like resin engines, single figures, belts, wood grain decals, even turnbuckles (though I don't do turnbuckles in 1/48)... though. WWI stringbags in 1/48 is a world of it's own, you will enjoy it. And spend money. Lot of money...
  18. These guys look quite suitable for a Huey, rather than a Cobra - at least the sitting figure makes me think so. I don't know, though, of any UH1 in 1/32 (other than the aged Revell kit) - are there some rumours of a modern UH-1 in plane-combatible, not AFV-combatible scale is coming up?
  19. Very briefly; ordered a set, but made the mistake to order via Shapeways, not direct. Reason is simply, I didn't find their page in Google (at least up until page 3 or so), so I thought they sell exclusively via Shapeways. Now I know... I should sell SEO consulting, this would be the perfect entry point for a sales pitch..
  20. Lower wing mounted, rigging wires attached. For the first time the Strutter overtook the Camel in this snail race...
  21. And some more work on the wings. Painted the metal structures (or at least which I think are such) and drilled the rigging holes. Has someone ever done those PE-wiring things? I can't think of... Top wing, upper side - the masking of the inspection windows not removed; Top wing, bottom side; and the bottom wing. I placed the holes for the rigging amidst the struts. Might not be 100% according to the rigging diagram - which is a bit on the basic side - but makes sense to me.
  22. Looking on the pictures after posting - well: it doesn't look THAT bad in real life. The camera from my smartphone is unforgiving...
  23. Good to know - never had one of those. I've only seen a review of this very set on a german page, which was not 100% enthusiastic. But well, reviews... But I guess i will find out myself and order a set. It's reasonably priced, I'd say, so the risk is manageable.
  24. And, managed to get the tail with the wiring together. The super thin wiring might be a bit too thin, notice for the next time.
  25. Hi Jamie, many thanks for your remarks. I do have to disagree, though, as I haven't paid anything except some gratitude in larger amounts, but are absolutely valuable. Of course I have to adapt, as things have to be judged in the view from my own bench, but your remarks make totally sense. I may answer inline for the two most import points:
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