Ray_W

Very nice Bob. I'm just catching up with everyone's builds. Clever solution on the underside. Ray

Coming along nicely Craig. Going to be another fine addition to your collection. Ray

Beautiful paint work. I like it.

Subject chosen. Wanted something that first flew in my birth year. An X-15 would of been nice, but tracking down a 1/48 Special Hobby at a reasonable price was not easy. So another option was chosen and promptly ordered: And a nice early scheme using the Caracal sheet. Now that is a paint scheme I am really looking forward to. Ray

Hi Craig, It's been a couple of hectic months that has given much free time. Hope to get back into it soon. Ray

Recently, there was the ongoing discussion regarding the Hispano 20mm Mk. I and Mk. II cannons as fitted to the Hurricane, with the comments that belt-fed meant Mk. II. On further reading, from primary sources, I found so much variation between possible parts options that it was difficult to determine the difference between a Mk. I and the Mk. II. I recently received this 1940 handbook: The introduction summarises differences in the final paragraph. Also note the mention of fitting Mk. II parts to the Mk. I and the hand written reference to 'BELT FEED MECHANISM'. The handbook goes into great detail describing all the mix-and-match components for gas operation, cocking, and breech block variation, and this was only 1940. It gets further confusing as sometimes a new mark number is used for a part, and this does not necessarily mean that it was a part designed specifically for either the Mk. I or Mk. II cannon. The handbook is also not clear on the most visible part of the cannon installation: the mounting spring arrangement. Possibly, at the time of publication, the round mounting spring alternative to the square spring had not been adopted, the square spring being evident in the early Hurricane Mk IIC installations. However, the manual is very clear about the Mk. I cannon belt feed option: So where does this leave us? A reasonable conclusion is that drum-fed or belt-fed does not necessarily indicate the cannon type. Bottom line? The usual modeller's dictum applies: try to get an image of your chosen subject and replicate what you see. I also recommend some caution when ordering aftermarket, where the nuances may not have been captured. Ray

Gorgeous work and exceptional finish, as always. I also appreciate the detail in how you went about it. Ray

Hi Steve, Just catching up with this and really like the idea of letting "Shelf of Doom" builds slip into a GB with Gallery rules. I'll have to use this as an excuse for completing some other stuff in the future. Wonderfully smooth finish. Have you brush painted already? What was your technique? Ray

I do like the look of the Tamiya XF-4 for zinc chromate.

I posted this recently to a similar question. Just to be sure of the product type. Two very different products. Mr. Color Super Metallic on the left the "SM" range - lacquers, very fine metallic effects and tough. I have had no issues with masking over a gloss Black UENO undercoat. Mr. Metal Color on the right the "MC" range - fragile, needs to be buffed, shake the bottle extremely well before use. Great for specific metallic effects in areas that will not be handled or masked. Bottle has now changed. Then just too add more confusion you have normal Gunze lacquers in their "C" range like Mr. Color Silver, Mr Color Metallic Super Silver, Mr Color Metallic Shine Silver and Mr Color Previous Silver (finally discontinued). And out of the SM range, I am yet to try Mr. Color Silver Plate Next. I always think with Gunze's products the product number is useful. I also have now had a fair bit of experience with AK Xtreme Metal. For real tough coats that need handling, I still prefer Mr Color Super Metallic. Here is my MiG-21 finished in AK's product. Looks pretty. However, I stand by my comments when I built this a couple of years ago. I'll quote myself: "The Xtreme is weird stuff. I expect it is a lacquer yet is some ways it behaves like an enamel. The surface is touch dry in less than 20 minutes but handle gently no finger pressure and wear a glove (even though this hobby has made me expert in sanding out finger prints 🙄) Think enamel in terms of curing/drying time. Soft under the surface for a while. Maybe it is a lacquer with a heap of retarder. Some say they can mask almost immediately. I take AK advice and leave 24 hours. I find Gunze Rapid Lacquer Thinner is great for clean-up." This build had a lot of masking for different panel colours with no issues. I gave it plenty of curing/drying time and used de-tacked Kabuki tape. Ray

Expensive. Costs more than the kit. Although, being so pressed for time these days, I thought best to avoid the scratch building. I should have them early next week. I'll post some images in the chat.

Thanks Steve, I'm due for another invasion stripes project. Hi James, into researching the subject a little now. I hope to start the cockpit on the weekend.

I now have suitable kits in my possession. I also relented and paid the crazy money for the FC Model Trends Australian conversion. Although, it is probably better to say "I paid the money because I am crazy". I'll use this on the Airfix/Academy kit and save the Tamiya Stuart for another subject. All now in anticipation of a successful poll. Ray

Thanks Ian. I have done a little more on the figures although the past week has been busy with other matters. Not a lot of time at the modelling bench. Looking forward to the weekend. Ray

Thanks again for the great information. Looking at everything, I think Gunze H58 should do very nicely. Ray

Hi Dennis, Funny thing I thought I saw it pop up on my mobile last night. When up this morning, and at the PC with time to respond, it was gone. Maybe, maybe not. Thanks for the welcome. I have been looking forward to this. Ray

Thanks @Tbolt Just the info I needed. One additional question - cockpit colour? Tinted YC? I am basing this on an earlier thread also noting your comments. Any further thoughts? Ray

My entry in the GB will be T/Sgt. E.E. Draxton's P-47D Razorback in D-Day markings using the Tamiya 1/48 kit. The kit: With a box of sprues ready to start: And a selection of aftermarket, although I have a suspicion, the engine will stay in the packet. We will see. I have the Thundercals decals as printed by Cartograf : My selected subject - Olive Drab, checkers and stripes. I am now researching how the D-6-RE as portrayed is different to the Tamiya kit (D-20?). Any input is greatly welcome. I do think the artist's impression above is incorrect showing universal wing carriers. This is not clear in images of the aircraft in May 1944 and then as written off in the belly landing of December 1944. I'll go without carriers. Here May 1944: By the way, note that the aircraft code D is lower on the fuselage and without the underline as represented by the decals. I certainly will go with the Thundercals research as all later images show the code as "D". Thundercals also call up a 12' 2" AO Smith asymmetric prop, which Tamiya do not provide. Should it be 13', one of the Tamiya options? Ray

Just had a quick look. Seems like you have the answer. Seems the same product. Taking a couple of lines from MIG's site: " The thinner used in these paints and varnishes, like in other lacquer products, are only suitable for airbrush use, not for brush painting. Remember that all lacquer paints contain toxic components and it is advisable to use a respirator for its application, and to spray these products in a well-ventilated area. "

Hi Mark, 1/48 Arma Hobby Hurricane Mk IIC gets my vote. Just released, available, excellent detail and not too difficult to build. I just completed a WIP so you can take a look and decide if it's to your taste. I have done a few extras. However, OOB it is excellent and no need to play around with fillers and sanding. Finished build Ray

Thanks James, I am looking forward to the next post showing them all in position before painting. That will be significant progress. A lot of scraping, cutting and gouging underway. Thanks Paul for the nice comments.

I expect @sanfrandragon is talking about Alclad II Klear Cote Gloss (ALC-310) which is a lacquer based clear gloss finish rather than the water based Alclad II Aqua Gloss (ALC-600). You're right, most places are out of stock. As an alternative, you could try my favourites Gunze's GX-100 or GX-112 for a high quality super clear lacquer based gloss finish. It will need thinning using Mr Color Levelling Thinner or similar. Another alternative, that may spray well straight from the bottle, is MRP-048 Super Clear Gloss. I have not tried it myself being quite happy with the Gunze products. Possibly worth some experimentation if you can source it. It may be a problem to ship but note that hobbycult.bg is showing some stock of the Alclad II Klear Cote Gloss (ALC-310). Ray

Thanks Bob. I like modelling the figures to give some perspective for that reason. I regularly walk through the Bulgarian National Military Museum here in Sofia. Excellent outside display and a lot of AFV's, artillery and aircraft to get up close to. I often think the same checking out the Panzers, Stugs, T-34 and such. Ray

Thanks James, I am having fun playing with all the different leg, arm and torso combinations to see if I can get what I need using Blu-tac as a hold. I expect some legs, hands and arms will need some repositioning. This guy boarding is close though. Handy getting images like this to show a crew boarding. Ray

Pretty much calling the Valentine complete. I'll save the aerials until I finish the crew/troops/display base which is the next part of this project. I'll also add some tow ropes and a couple of C167 ammo boxes. I suppose, if nothing else, I have something to post in the gallery. Ray