Ray_W

Progress is being made. Took a lot of motivation to get into modifying the ejection seats and, with work busy, not one of those jobs you can easily just jump into. I am still working on the modifications having removed the drogue chute container and reshaped the seat top with inletting underway. Slow and steady, so not a lot to show for a number of hours on these couple of parts ... but, they are getting there. I initially thought of scratch-building the head cushions. The existing plastic parts came to the rescue and I cut-out and thinned what I needed. Wolfpack do make an aftermarket early seat for the Kinetic kit, and with a little more research up front, would of possibly (if it fits) been a better purchase. As is, though, I am happy with the progress and should provide a satisfying modification. Ray

I have used them previously and have no hesitation in using them again. They settled down nicely, no issue. In the following image the roundels and cockpit art are DK. I just used Gunze's Mr Mark Setter ( do not recall using Softer) and then encapsulated in a top coat of GX-112 Clear. I masked and sprayed the squadron codes for this subject. I am usually mixing and matching paint and various decals for my subject of interest so seem to never use the one decal brand on a kit. Here is Jiminiy Cricket after being applied by the method described and before the top coat ... lovely. Note that I do apply a gloss undercoat mainly to protect the paintwork. It tends be smooth but not too shiny. Still, everything settled down as desired. You need to check your colour research. They can be wrong. For example, when Eduard released their first boxing of the 1/48 Spifire Mk. I, you may recall, it came with their new decal process. I much preferred the DK yellow and the fact that they had no Eduard pixelation and strange register, as seen below (Eduard white, DK blue). Yet I was unhappy with the DK roundel red (too bright) and Eduard (too crimson) so ended up masking and spraying all the roundels and fin flash on my Mk.I I did use DK for codes and serials ... again lovely ... and that over Eduard's positive rivets. In this case I used Mr Mark Setter and Softer. Would I use them again? Emphatic, yes. Ray

Just as well the Air Ministry insisted they shorten the wings so I have a chance of fitting it into my hangar at home.

Also not a bad call.

Thanks for the review, Mike. I received mine today and love it. Another kit crossed off the bucket list. As for the rivetting or lack thereof, I'm glad ICM has supplied it in this clean form as the actual aircraft's rivets are very fine, indeed. I'll be riveting mine, but to my taste - fine and more prototypical - rather than relying solely on moulding technology and a possible fill and re-rivet. As far as I am concerned, it was a good call by ICM. However, each to their own taste. Ray

What will be left in life to wish for when my bucket list is complete. I just received the new ICM 1/48 Marauder, and the Airfix 1/48 Gannet is on the way - both of which were new tools I've wanted for many years. The last one is the 1/48 Hampden. What's left once that is fulfilled? Actually, I think that's a problem I really want to have. ICM, bring it on.

I checked my research materials and have not changed my position on the scheme as built, which is actually 71/62/65 with the splinter scheme as shown in my build but without the yellow stripe for the earlier period. I incorrectly typed RLM 70 and since corrected this in the earlier post. As mentioned, I was leaning very heavily on Dénes Bernád’s research and his excellent books on Bulgarian Fighter Colors as published by MMP Books. He discusses the darker green and Bulgarian equivalents saying it was possibly a mixed green closer to RLM 71. I recall we also had some discussion about the fading of RLM 70 to a tone more like RLM 71. In the end I went with his proposed 71/62/65 which appears supported by the photo evidence. I was very happy with the result. Here is a period for a relatively new aircraft image. HTH Ray

Hi Claudio, Let me check my references and I'll come back to you within the next couple of days. Ray

I am finally back at the modelling bench and back into this project. First step on return was ... where am I at? Taped a few pieces together. Nice fit. Beautiful aircraft. The intake trunking needs a little work. I had already thinned it somewhat and a little Milliput to smooth the join. I have rebuilt that top inside radius with some CA/Talc. However, still not totally happy, more thinning to come. I'll finish these external pieces to minimise any post filling and sanding and then dive into the cockpit. First up will be to modify the ejection seats and remove the drogue chute container to backdate the seat. Should see some progress over the coming days. Ray

Hi Claudio. I have a WIP here of my build of a Bulgarian Bf 109E. It is in the war scheme, however, looking at the images of both the pre-war insignia and later machine in Denes Bernard's excellent book on Bulgarian Fighter Colours, I suggest no change in the colours. His research stated RLM 7071, RLM 62 and undersides RLM 65 actually also provided in Bulgarian equivalents. Ray

I have engraved the areas where the panelling was removed and rivetted. Now a 3 week break due to business travel. I'll be back and this one will be completed. Thankfully not an STGB. Ray

Translation of the Chinese characters "Fill in"

Spoiler alert. Episode 6. Have the remote close at hand again.

Hi Craig, very attractive aircraft. One of the reasons I really like these group builds is I end up choosing subjects that are not my usual genre. Have to agree, it will become a new favourite for me. Thanks Cliff, certainly looking forward to painting this scheme. Thanks, the Meteor was a fun build and this one has started the same way. With regard to the leading and trailing edge thickness, I found sanding improved them somewhat and provided a more scale appearance. They're not too bad as is, however, as always, thinning edges is the first thing for improving realism in IMHO. I am happy with the result ... I was careful angling the sanding back so it achieved the effect without exaggerating what had been done. Also, did the same with the intakes. Let's say a little artistic licence (or cheating), trading off thick edged kit plastic versus thin flat slab sided surfaces on the actual aircraft. Some re-scribing and rivetting to replace lost detail to come - not too much. Still deciding what to do with the fin ... Ray

I have seen some builds of this kit with filler. Actually, you can get away with very little, if any. I started with my usual regime with some careful parts clean up, which was not onerous just clean and check some matching joins (wing roots), and judicious test fitting. No flash and small offset sprue gates. Lovely kit, a little bit of finger pressure on assembly, extra thin cement and we should get out of it with a nice clean build. The rear fuselage benefits from adding some additional locators. Seems like I did not achieve much over the weekend, but I did devote a fair amount of time to getting the fit right while researching the cockpit. Next job is working out a strategy for thinning leading and trailing edges. Somewhat thick ... ... tricky, without losing the engraved detail and giving my self a lot of work. Then again, finer engraving and rivetting may not be a bad option. The flying surfaces are petite. Top sides only and front and rear of the fin. Not too much to do. I'll think about this one before launching into it. Ray

It was, and I would say always was.

I was hunting for an aircraft that first flew in 1959. A 1/48 X-15 would of been a nice choice, although the kits are now reasonably rare and going for the expected price. Option 2 was the Talon. Also first flew in 1959. Wolfpack has the kit and it's still available, plus the bonus of an aftermarket decal set for the Talon covering the period "USAF 1960 ~ 80 Era". Everything was promptly ordered and we're ready to start. The kit decals are for the early 2010's period. Nicely printed by Cartograf, but not what I wanted. The kit does come with masks. The Wolfpack aftermarket decal set has the delightful white and fluorescent orange finish - October 1961 - a boomer in a boomer finish. Good to go. Decals again by Cartograf Should look nice beside my Meteor ... Now this is one I should be able to finish in time. Two sprues and some nice clear parts. And I did add the Wolfpack T-38 Update set. This one without the early solid wheels, so I'll need to modify these. As usual, I wonder how much of it I'll actually use ... ... maybe the seats. But, when I do some investigation, these may not be correct for the period. EDIT: Found the info. Seat is correct for the version just a matter of possibly need to remove the drogue chute container. Bench is clear. Let's make a start - subject research, parts clean-up and test fitting. Ray

Thank you. Yes it was. An artist's pencil does have its limitation. It likes a matt surface, although, you'll note my finish has a slight sheen which it has taken to. To my eye aircraft always look more realistic with a slight sheen. I apply the pencil as a last step. The sort of effect where there is variable wear in the top coat is easy to achieve with chipping fluid/hairspray and less so with the hard edge liquid mask. The beauty of chipping fluid is the variation - wholesale wear to mere scratches - duplicating the actual wearing process. I like the control. . But, there are examples where people achieve great effects with liquid masks for chipping effects.

Both materials have their use depending on the subject, scale and desired effect. If you're looking for hard edge chipping effects, for example, US Olive drab aircraft leading edge and cowling wear to undercoat/metal finishes (please ICM B-26 soon ), the liquid masks with sponge application works very well. If you seek considerable variation and density of wear such as winter whitewash finishes, chipping fluid/hairspray is my preferred. Really no hard or fast rules. Even the humble silver pencil works where appropriate. Difficult to get this effect with liquid masks (1/48) and even more controllable than hairspray, but maybe too subtle for some and impossible to capture effectively on gloss finishes. Let's say, "horses for courses". Liquid mask paint chipping seems to have gained some traction in recent years. Vallejo promote it and it is a good way for them to sell more of their liquid masking solution. I could be a cynic and say commercialisation of techniques that we have been using for some time (I use W&N Art Masking Fluid), but I wish all companies who support our hobby success, so bring it on. Both methods are simply additional tools in the kitbag. Their usage dependent on the effect you want, comfort in your own abilities, and what the photo evidence suggests. Ray

That model was mine, although it's currently on the other side of the planet and I am not so much into commission work. However, your question might be better raised in the modeller's chat section where you will get a broader response and some may offer you a solution. By the way, I was 61 when I built that model and I'm still planning future projects and making kits. Just warming up. Ray

Tamiya's product for improving lustre on existing gloss finishes. I think specifically designed for automotive models. Ray

My, that's a good idea. One to keep in mind.

Hi Craig, Sorry I could not post the images in time for the conclusion of the GB. The model is on the opposite side of the planet. In hindsight, I should of just posted the WIP images. Sadly, not much time for modelling in the past 6 months due to work and travel commitments. My New Year's resolution is to complete the two 2024 GB's I have committed to - Boomers and Stuart - and then focus on completing the raft of models started in the past 18 months and get back to my one kit and finish dictum. Thanks as always for your commitment and support. See you around the builds. Ray

I really looked forward to this and was totally disappointed with the exception of Vanessa Kirby's acting as Josephine. I saw it on IMAX and then on return home watched Sergei Bondarchuk's 1970 Waterloo as a palette cleanser. The latter was a brilliant film and I prefer its historical accuracy and, dare I say, acting. Bondarchuk without CGI and yes, too many explosions rather than solid shot (it was 1970 effects), but the Scots Greys, Ney's charge, the British squares located at the back of the ridge, "Scotland the Brave" and so on. Small detail, I like is all the messenger's on horse back traversing the battlefield delivering messages. A must watch. I could go into detail on Ridley's Napoleon - but, too many spoilers. Still definitely one to see on the big screen. Possibly Ridley's well over 4 hour director's cut to be released on Apple may be better. Ray

I find the heavier tomes and classics can work very well with exceptional narration and also ensuring they are the unabridged version. I recently did that with the audio version of War and Peace and loved it. I have got into the habit of repeat reading first in print and then returning in audio some time later. Did that with Masters of the Air. Having said that, I read Moby Dick again on Kindle and also thoroughly enjoyed it. Just finished Thomas Asbridge The Crusades. I had put it off for some time due to comments on the narration. So glad I ignored this and completed it in time for the current issues in that region. Current audio book is The Brothers Karamazov. Ray