Hotel Papa

The Instructions say that you have to support the plane under its skid if you want to show it lifted on the fork.

As for the cockpit floor: AFAIK this was not really there; it's a nod to buildability. So I'd keep that significantly darker than the rest, to imitate the deep shadow of looking into the wing structure below.

Several options: China clay (which is white) or ground chalk mixed with the appropriate amount of ochre pigment. Use a fine modeling clay (which will be better to hold the required shape anyway) and tint it with water soluble paint.

Do an image search for 'vitis vinifera facade' and you'll find some pretty, broad-leaved creepers, some of them purple. The shape of your leaves does not remind me of any creeping plant, just of oaks. And it's way too large for these in this scale anyway. That's an obstacle that's very difficult to overcome. Often it's better to go for the right overall structure, as you do with the tea leaves, than to try to replicate every little detail fo the shape of the leaves. For real ivy with its hand shaped leaves the winged seeds of birches are often a close aproximation, but I think you have used these before.

Aren't yoghurt tubs usually made of polyethylene or polypropylene, i.e. almost impossible to glue? What do you use for adhesive?

In any internal mix airbrush there's a section between the paint canal and the needle packing that is not really reached by flushing. With each backward movement some paint is drawn there, where it can remain happily after flushing. What may help is repeated operation of the needle during flushing. I always remove the needle for final clenaing however. I especially like how easy the needle can be removed towards the front in the H&S. This helps with not contaminating the rerward areas with paint. Careful with needles that have "pressed on" markings at the end, however. These can damage the packing when pulled out through the front.

Doesn't look like a mould to pour this into is of any concern, as its a rather thick putty, kneaded by hand. How I would go about this: Mount the master on a base (which will form your pour block / funnel), modeling a pour gate. Knead up the putty and fully enclose the master and pour doohickey with copious amounts of putty. Set the whole shebang on a flat surface with the pour gate oriented upward, squishing the bottom to form a solid base for later. Once it's hardened, use a fine blade to cut an scour along the pour gate and as far around the perimeter of the wheel as is necessery to work the wheel free from the mould. Pull out the master. Using silicone has the advantage that you can work from single piece moulds, as they stretch and bend easily and snap back into their original shape. Pour to your heart's content. If you don't like "blobby" hand kneaded moulds, you can use what many use for casting liquid silicones: Lego. I'd start as described above, then squeeze the mould into a Lego frame instead of just setting it on a flat surface.

It's the railway scale H0. Just found out on Wikipedia that this is not very common in the UK, apparently the usual scale there in that ballpark is 00 or 1/76th

Have you looked at the photo? Paint application is far from "tight". Plus, the pattern shows clear indications of the spray gun being held at an angle, giving a rather tight edge on one side and a feathered edge at the other. I don't see how achieving this result is any more impossible than the various soft edged German mottles on fuselage sides, which are attempted by modellers all the time. It may require partial masking for the tight portion of the edge, but that can be achieved with a mobile "shade"

Dunno about masks for some of the patterns. Look at at the upper surface of a G-6 wing that Brett Green posted in his review of the Eduard Model. Those jagged edges seem to be the result of wide sweeps with the spray gun. I don't think that that effect can be replicated with a mask. Best thing a modeler can do is try to duplicate the very action of the guy in the paintshop.

I used to stuff them with firecrackers and play "War". Great fun it was, too!

If you have the Iwata anyway, why not opt for a two-Brush setup? No need to fiddle with reconfigurations. That being said, the H&S are mighty fine brushes. But be sure to get your hands on one for some fondling, test spraying and test maintenance. Not everyone likes the same gear.

OT, but here goes.

Great subject and execution. Don't know about filling the 'pit with water, though. I wouldn't expect a Spit to hold water much above the ground water level.

Mr. Tamiya seems to think along similar lines. Their weathering pigment sets look suspiciously like eye makeup kits to me...