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beany

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About beany

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  • Birthday 09/24/1960

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    Chellaston. Derby
  1. Four wheels seem to dominate the two wheeled subjects so far - probably not surprisingly - so I thought I'd show these. The Heller Honda 950SS is the most recent acquisition from eBay. The Tamiya CB750 Four is becoming like rocking horse poo these days apparently. Mine is started unfortunately but I can't see me finishing it so I'm still tempted to list it on eBay to see what offers I could get, or maybe take it to Huddersfield show - but that's just me being a greedy git really! Cheers Al.
  2. A colleague of mine who is ex-RAF and currently the big cheese at the local air cadets asked me to help out with their Wing Field Day model competition once again this year. The theme was Air Experience Flights - taking the youngsters up for their first flying experiences, and also the aircraft operated by these flights and the University Air Squadrons they were attached to. So my remit was to do a Chipmunk standing with prop turning, pilot in situ and canopy open awaiting the next victim! Behind these as set dressing would be a Bulldog and also the unique Beagle Husky, an aircraft that my colleague had himself been in several times. No kit of any description exists for the Husky but as it is based on an Auster frame he provided me with an A-Models Auster AOP kit and asked me to do what I could to make it look like the Husky, for which there are many excellent photos to be found on Airliners.net among other sites. My colleague would then build the base and airfield diorama, with a hanger in the background. I made a mess of the Chipmunk so we relegated this to a static model to go in the hangar and I brought another for a second attempt for the main aircraft. This is not my favourite scale and when I eventually got started I realised that I had much less time than I needed to finish these properly. The competition was last weekend and my colleague is on leave this week so I have not heard how our entry fared yet. The Chipmunks and Bulldog are the Airfix kits. Here are some pictures. The featured Chipmunk. Johnny Instructor has had his head severed and then re-attached to appear to be looking over his shoulder for the next student. The canopy needed to be opened and the Airfix offering was far too thick so I crash moulded a replacement (my first attempt at this), then used computer labels cut into strips for the canopy framing - dipped in Klear to seal it, then carefully separated the front windscreen by cutting it away with sharp nail scissors. The decals on this and the other Chipmunk and the Husky are generic Xtradecal roundels and serials. Each serial was made from individually cut out letters - ask me how much I enjoyed doing those - go on - I dare you :evil: The Airfix S.A. Bulldog - pretty much OOB box with the kit decals for this on as it would be tucked away in the hangar. I lost the front wheel leg so made a brass tube replacement. This little tinker is a tail sitter but a carefully applied dob of Blue-Tack under the front wheel seems to get her to sit properly. The Beagle Husky. The tail fillet is made from and old credit card, having removed the rudder from the Auster tail and then glued it back on here. It wasn't until she was finished that I notice that the red does not come up high enough on the fuselage, but it was too late to address it by then. Again serials were individually applied. They have to be trimmed as close as possible to the actual letter or the clear carrier film prevents you butting up the next character close enough to the last one - found that out the hard way too! The Husky nose is basically a crash mould of the Bulldog nose, padded out and attached to the fuselage with Milliput. It looks better from a distance, fortunately. The carpet monster claimed the A-Models flimsy tail wheel so I scratch built a kind of skid arrangement in the short amount of time I had left before handing the kits over to my colleague. "Where's that little *!#@* got to?" Seat belts in rear are painted Tamiya tape. Comments welcome, thanks for looking. Cheers Al.
  3. That has got to be one of the nicest builds I have ever seen, quite simply excellent. Congratulations Cheers Al.
  4. OK mate - as you asked so nicely - I knocked this one up just for you a few minutes ago - hope you like it Seriously though, this one was built for the 2011 Telford show, and is currently with Airfix down at Margate as during SMW they asked if they could borrow the whole display (well, the Airfix subjects anyway) for their Exhibition Centre this year. The remit for the Classic British Kits SIG is kits by British manufacturers (Airfix, FROG, Matchbox, Kitmaster, etc.) over 25 years old. However, personally I have several projects lined up that are not constrained by this, including Adam Toobys excellent current Airfix 1/24th Mosquito box art (I already have a Tamiya 1/48 Mossie for use as the forced perspective) and will scratch build Amien prison form card and brick papers (I am a railway modeller first and foremost). I also have some excellent greeting cards and calender scenes that are begging me to be built as dioramas, so watch this space...
  5. Thanks for the kind comment guys. Fellow Classic British Kits SIG member James Perrin produced the art work for 2, 3, 4 & 5 bladed props and posted the images on the UAMF forum (which hosts the CBK SIG). I copy the prop I want, plonk it into a blank Word document, stretch it to the size required (I originally printed several on one sheet at increasing sizes then print them off and measure them to keep as a template for future reference), then having found the size I want for the scale of aircraft I am fitting, I copy and paste as many as I can fit onto an A4 sheet in Word then print it onto a sheet of Overhead Projector Acetate I then cut the props out with one of those circle cutter compasses you can get from Hobby /Craft stores. I also bought a set of metal punches from eBay and again work out the size of centre hole required to fit over the spinner, and bash out an appropriately sized hole. For the Invader I just made a small hole with a scalpel blade. This is the largest one I have done for the Revell 1/32 Hawker Tempest (it is not sitting correctly on the spinner - the prop blades are out of alignment with the spinner holes!). Cheers Al.
  6. Yes sir - cheapo large tube acrylics from The Works and a set of their large oil paint brushes - work a treat!
  7. I'm really just not as good at all you fellow Britmodellers when it comes to bashing out those really excellent, accurate, detailed builds so I try to bluff my way through with these dioramas instead. I didn't manage to finished this one in time for the CBK SIG display at Telford in 2012, but she will just about be dry in time for Huddersfield this Sunday. A really enjoyable build and I loved painting the backdrop - they are so easy to do. Even last night I thought the colours were still a bit vivid in the bottom left area and the box art suggested more smoke, so I just put a small blob of Vallejo Matt White and another of Matt Black on a pallet (scrap plastic CD case), got an old 1&1/2 inch decorating paintbrush very wet, and just dipped it in both colours and mixed it on the "canvas" as I went - a very loose wash basically - and then dabbed it off again with a J-Cloth (which the wife is still looking for - oops) = smoke effect achieved! Once again I used eBay to souce an Altaya die-cast 1/144 model for the forced perspective as I did on my Sunderland/Fw.200 diorama for Telford. These die-casts are superb, especially as the Invader "Stinky" comes in the correct colour scheme, although I had to remove the nose art as it doesn't match the box picture. The two planes are both attached to bent metal tent pegs (20 for a £1.00 from Pound-Land/Stretcher/World or whatever) with the ends hacksawed off and filed and de-burred and forced into holes drilled in the MDF backscene. For the 1/72 one I have drilled right through the engine nacelle and into the cockpit side to support the weight - which isn't much. You can barely see it, so that worked out well. The die-cast one already had a hole in the bottom so I opened it up to accomodate the metal pole after bending it by hand in a vice to the correct angle. A bit more obvious from the front but again gets lost if viewed from the side and slightly above. I hope you guys like it. I'm chuffed to bits with this one. Now, what to do next?! Cheers Al.
  8. If like me you have model paints numbering in the 100s rather than 10s then you may also find it is difficult to keep track of what you have and to compare them - e.g. who's RLM 71 looks best (to me that is) type of thing. Some time ago at work they started issuing us with business cards which were about as much use to me as a chocolate tea pot - but I immediately saw the potential in these pre-cut mini sheets of card. I simply have them to hand whenever I open a tin of paint these day - write the description underneath and keep them grouped by colour - greens, greys, browns etc, in an old Ferrero Rocher box. Some need a couple of coats (as you will see in the picture), and some require duplicates or even triplicates - do olive drabs go best with the greens, browns, or grey - I just put one in each. Here is a (poor) photo of a few of the many greens that I have. Cheers Al.
  9. Revell 1/8th scale L.A. Street Chopper - Revell Catalogue No. H-1240 I first made this kit in my very early teens , probably 1972 or 73, and have been looking to find another ever since. One or two have appeared on Ebay but were either far too expensive or were incomplete. This one was being sold by a UK seller (although I have no problem buying from overseas if the postage is reasonable) and is only very partially started, and cost me less than £25.00. I loved the shape of this bike so much the original kit I built featured in one of the piece of the artwork I had to submit for my Art 'O' Level a year or two after the kit was completed and had pride of place on my bedroom shelf. Presumably tooled in the USA... ...but Made in Britain Much of the chrome plating will be stripped and re-chromed with Alclad. In spite of what it says on the side of the box, this one clearly is not molded in Flame Red, but I do remember that my first one was and as such did not need to paint the frame or gas tank. No decals are supplied with this kit so I will have to employ some fancy artwork for the tank, but try to keep the feel of a 70's chopper rather than have my head turned by the likes of the more modern OCC designs and artwork. Cheers Al. EDIT (for those who like choppers) Here are a couple of pics of my build of the Revell 1/8th scale Chopped Hog, released around the same time, also built by me as a teenager and then sourced again a few years ago on eBay (in fact I also have another part started one in the stash). Photos taken at Automodellismo at Donington Parks a few years back. Cheers Al.
  10. %Thanks for the comments guys. I have to admit the angle is quite pronounced from the side view Don, but it captures the box art better when viewed from the front and slightly above - except you need to be about 7 foot tall for that! There is a half inch steel rod holding her up so she is actually pretty secure. The only fear at the weekend was that a Health and Safety Nazi would make us stick a cork on the escape tower to stop having someone's eye out!
  11. There is still a bit left to do on her, but I felt it was good enough to put it on our table. It got some very favourable comments, as did the rest of our display. A very enjoyable show as always - well done IPMS Farnborough. Cheers Al.
  12. Thanks for the kind comments guys. I not a very accurate modeller I'm afraid - I'm too impatient and too lazy to do the proper research - so I go for the Impressionist approach with these dioramas. Yes indeed - there is still a bit to do on this one yet hence putting it in the WIP section for now. My initial idea is to use billowing layers/clumps of cotton wool stuck on the baseboard for the jet blast. If that doesn't look right I will have to buy another can of expanding foam! Please do - these dioramas are great fun and are always so well received at the shows we attend. they can be made reasonably cheaply as well as I've tried to show above, using old off-cuts of MDF or chipboard for bases and backdrops and cheap paints. I would love to see that Vostok - it's one of the few Airfix kits I never made as a kid, or since. Cheers Al.
  13. I have this build going on UAMF but wanted to share it here as well. This is my current project for the CBK SIG "Classic British Box Art Display - Take 2" for Telford this year, although I'm hoping to have it done for Farnborough Modelfest on Saturday. We'll start with the base board and backdrop... The backdrop is tall and narrow and a screwed butt joint didn't look like it was going to work so I cut some notches into the backdrop and put another piece of timber at the back to make up a slot for it to slot into! The Saturn V was always a favourite since I was a young kid - I was always into "space" - difficult not to be with a name like Alan Bean (fourth man to walk on the moon - Apollo 12). As for the model - smoke added here - not sure if this will work but I'll be creative with the poster paints and add cotton wool and should get a rough approximation of the box art I hope. I was going to go bigger with the smoke but what you see here is an entire can of foam and I ain't made of money! Here is the baseboard stippled with Gesso primer. A few more coats will be needed I think. ... and the star of the show after a coat of Halfords Appliance White. The kit is the Skylab Saturn V version, but these were on offer for £10 less than the actual current Saturn V boxing, and the Skylab boxing still has all the parts to make the original, so I just discarded the Skylab extra sprue. the moulds are a bit tired these days, but good enough for a diorama I reckon. Time for some mounting. I found a stiff metal rod saved from a long discarded display cabinet if I remember correctly (diorama builders throw NOTHING away!) I had to carefully pull off the inner engine nozzle that has previously been glued in place before notions of turning this build into a CBBA project had surfaced. I thought it would have to be scrapped but then realised I could cut the tip off and slide it back in place over the rod. I cleaned up the plastic, teased out a small indentation in the centre as a guide for the first drill and then opened up the hole with gradually increasing size of drill bits - slowly and carefully. I eventually got a nice tight hole for the rod to stop the rocket body moving about once mounted in the baseboard. I took the assembled rocket and positioned it to gauge the correct angle for the hole in the baseboard to best match the picture on the box art - again starting with a pilot hole and opening it up to get a nice tight fit for the rod. This diorama is big - I had to stand on a chair for this shot... Last shot before breaking it down for decaling and then painting the baseboard and backdrop. I am going to wimp out as far as the falling control tower is concerned because it is difficult to see with clarity on the box art - I had toyed with doing it in low relief but will now just paint it on, so the rocket and smoke effect are the central focus. Cheers Al. Here is a scan from the catalogue of the box art I am trying to model. I did have this boxing as a youngster, but no longer I'm afraid. It has to be one of the most powerfully evocative boxes ever - I wonder how many of these sold in the 70's on the basis of the artwork alone?! Right then - quick lesson (and rebuke) for those who say "I can't paint..."; tell me what's so difficult about this: Basics shown here - cheap poster paints from The Works, ditto stiff brushes for oil painting - you are going to bash the whatsit out of these with all of the mixing and stippling so you certainly don't want to ruin beautiful sable artist's brushes. Even DIY type decorators brushes would do. We will work wet on wet - i.e. mix the paint as we go in the container - vermillion and yellow side by side, used neat and then mixed on the brush to give the orange shade - dip it in the verm. then straight into the yellow and just daub away on the foam. Got to get into all the nooks and crannies so it takes a while. Now just work some neat yellow on top while all still wet to give some highlights... ...and doing the same on the background. Remember to keep your reference close to hand so you don't stray too far off piste! Now you can go and have some lunch while this dries. An hour later, start with the neat white for the smoke highlights. Bit of impressionist work with smaller brushes and washes to do the sky and the building (they don't warrant close inspection) and you are more or less there. Grab your rocket and stick it in the hole and voila: Have I mentioned how hard it is to photograph this flaming thing :evil: There is more work to be done on the kit - more decals to go on and the black/white demarcations certainly need some touching up where we had some bleeding under the masking tape, but I'm hoping people won't be looking that closely. Cheers Al.
  14. I don't do tanks normally but was suffering builders block with the airplanes so had a go at this fella that I bought in the Modelzone sale a Christmas or two ago. I posted some pics on UAMF and asked for advice as I'm not familiar with armoured vehicles. (I didn't ask here because you guys are all too good and I felt embarrassed). I corrected most of the issues the chaps raised, so here is the finished article. Please do tell me if there is anything else I've missed - I won't learn and improve unless you tell me. Items for correction were: muzzle end was missing, gun angle lowered, machine gun painted, tracks to be sagged, driving wheel teeth painted, rear end to be weathered more. Cheers Al.
  15. Whilst up in the loft yesterday I found this. I bought the kit for £15.00 when my local model shop in Derby closed down a couple of years ago. The lady owner was very reluctant to sell it as it had been her favourite, but I promised that one day it would get built. From Wikipedia I have deduced that this kit represents the 7th Steamboat to carry the name Natchez, and probably the most famous one after the race with the Robert E Lee. The seventh Natchez was built in 1869. It was 301 feet (92 m) long, had eight boilers and a 5,500 cotton bale capacity. In its nine and a half year service, it made 401 trips without a single deadly accident. It became famous as the participant against another Mississippi paddle steamer, the Robert E. Lee, in a race from New Orleans to St. Louis in June 1870, immortalized in a lithograph by Currier and Ives. This Natchez had beaten the previous speed record, that of the J. M. White in 1844. Stripped down, carrying no cargo, steaming on through fog and making only one stop, the Robert E. Lee won the race in 3 days, 8 hours and 14 minutes. By contrast, the Natchez carried her normal load and stopped as normal, tying up overnight when fog was encountered. Despite this she berthed only six hours later. One way Leathers tried to speed up his boat was giving all of his workers whiskey. When Leathers finally dismantled the boat in Cincinnati in 1879, this particular Natchez had never flown the American flag The kit is moulded in several different colours of plastic, has two small reels of rigging thread and paper printed "decals" for flags etc. The instructions are printed on both sides of a sheet roughly A3 and folded in four. The hull of the boat is 20.5 inches long, the overall kit will be slightly longer as some bits stick out at the front! From another site I have taken them at their word when they say the kit is 1/160 scale. The instructions: There are no colour photos of the real ship available obviously, and the famous lithograph shows the two steamships both in similar white liveries which look boring, so I will basically attempt to reproduce the livery as per the box art, whether it be ficticious or not - lime green and brown will certainly be eye-catching. The kit parts: The Airfix Beaufighter body is shown to give an idea of scale of the boat. I'm looking forward to building this one. Cheers Al.
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