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Boman

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Everything posted by Boman

  1. Thanks Giorgio N - always wondered what the Italian pylons were called
  2. Don't think so Jens, but otherwise the same as the F-104G.
  3. The Norwegian CF-104's were upgraded to full F-104G standard, with C2/S2 seat. Greek and Turkey's Starfighters were hand-me-downs from Italy, Germany, Norway etc. so could carry this if the donor nation did. The Italian F-104S' didn't fly with Y-rack under the belly, although a special type was tested. Belgium didn't use the belly rack, although their Starfighters could carry it. If you ask me, I would go with either Norway, Denmark, Netherlands or Germany - or Japan or Taiwan should this be your choice.
  4. Kinetic had problems with more than just the initial F-16AM release, but as already stated this is down to personal taste in many instances.
  5. Personally, I don't like the original Revell F-16; raised panel lines, and depending on release depict an early block 5/10 with small stabilisers, though later details the ADF-version. Italiery is a very simple kit which mix'n'match between the various blocks without being true to any. The Italieri kit has been released by Revell so check you boxing. I'd stay away, though I have seen people making great models out of both of these.
  6. The list is quite simple, but to answer your question here it is: F-16A: Best: Hasegawa hands down. Alternative: Kinetic, however only for MLU updated A-versions. Revell depending on release give you either early F-16A block 5/10 or later block 15 ADF version. The ADF version is the only kit with this special tail configuration without going for aftermarket. Stay away: Academy, Italieri - and Kinetic due to shape issues around the nose portion. F-16B: Best: Hasegawa hands down. However rear cockpit represent early block 5/10 IP. Needs aftermarket IP to correct to block 15/OCU version. Alternative: Kinetic, however only for MLU updated B-versions. Stay away: Kinetic due to shape issues around the nose portion. F-16C: Best: Tamiya hands down. Second best: Hasegawa. Actually upgraded F-16A, hence some panel lines on rear of upper body represent A rather than C-version Alternative: Kinetic, however due have nose issues depending on release. Revell upgraded their F-16A with C-specific parts to provide the later blocks. Stay away: Academy - poor copy of Hasegawa, and Kinetic due to shape issues around the nose portion. F-16D: Best: Tamiya with conversion set. Tamiya never released any F-16D, so conversion is needed. Second best: Hasegawa. Actually upgraded F-16A, hence some panel lines on rear of upper body represent B rather than D-version. Also needs aftermarket to correctly represent F-16D IP panel Alternative: Kinetic, however due have nose issues depending on release Stay away: Kinetic, both due to shape issues and fit issues - but really a personnal taste. The various blocks of F-16 Viper can be read up on here: http://www.f-16.net/f-16_versions.html The above is my personal recommendation having built the F-16 Viper as as personal favourite since agoe 12
  7. Look up Siam Scale decals - they specialise in Thai AF markings.
  8. Some details on Quatari loadouts here; http://www.dstorm.eu/pages/loadout/miragef1.html
  9. C-models are in the 5xx series, while the D's are 6xx series for ordinary block 52. block 52+ are 02x series. No worries - love the model anyway
  10. Looking really good If you are looking for absolute accuracy on tail number and squadron, the F-16D's of 343 mira are 600, 601, 613, 614, 616, 617 and 618. (608 have only served with 340 mira - yellow/black checkered tail band)
  11. Very nice! If I may - tail number 024 is a Block 52+ and flies with 335/336 mira. For a correct tailnumber with 343 mira you should use the 6xx-series tail number. Love this build!
  12. Very nice. One comment though - the demarcation line between the FS36270 and FS36118 is a bit too far forward
  13. Nice! On a bit of a Thud crush myself these days - just waiting for a broken arm to heal then off building
  14. Here is a couple of nice alternatives you can consider; http://www.dxmdecalshop.com/shopping/product_info.php?products_id=90&Twesid=cd7ec47628612cdfc4b55b693dcd1285 http://www.dxmdecalshop.com/shopping/product_info.php?products_id=77&Twesid=cd7ec47628612cdfc4b55b693dcd1285 http://www.dxmdecalshop.com/shopping/product_info.php?products_id=65&Twesid=cd7ec47628612cdfc4b55b693dcd1285 If shark mouths are what you are after, the third and last one has 3 options
  15. In 1/48 you get the necessary correction parts to render a proper F-104S in the Daco improvement set. Really a gem, although costly
  16. Strange that there aren't more decals of 65sq and 19sq Mustang III/IV's (in 1/48 )?
  17. As Japaneese F-104J markings in 1/32 is hard to come by, I think it may be easier to find new main gear doors and convert it into a European one? This is the selection over at Hannants; https://www.hannants.co.uk/search/index.php?product_category_id=&product_division_id=&manufacturer_id=&code=&product_type_id=&scale_id=953&keyword_search=F-104&setPerPage=100&currency_id=
  18. This may get you along; https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/X72189
  19. Norwegian F-104's all carried the C2 seat, no question about it.
  20. FS numbers have a logic to them; FS1xxxx is gloss FS2xxxx is semi-gloss FS3xxxx is matt
  21. Glad to be of help. Let me know if you require the main gear covers to update the F-104J to a -G
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