Rwa66

It looks good already Andy. I am tempted to go the "no primer" route myself having had such poor results with Alclad recently. Do laquer paints adhere better than standard Tamiya or gunze?. I may give it a go but it seems strange not to primer, though I never used to back in the day. Wishing you all a Happy New Year. Cheers Richard

It seems that it does in fact come with the P.E. and LEDs to answer my own question. I noticed on the last link that the pre-order is through Revell? The postage is not included and is listed as from £6

Does anyone know if this version of the PG falcon will include the photo-etch and the LED lighting?

Superb work Andy, always a pleasure to see your builds. Cheers Richard

Hi Andy, Another lovely build. Do you use a DSLR or phone for your pics? Cheers Richard

Great job, I like that.

Jürgen.Thank you for you reply, sad to see you leave as it has been a pleasure to view your beautiful builds. Good luck and good bye. Kind Regards Richard

Another very nice build, it would be a pity if it were your last here. I know that Minicraft did a TR3a but I don't know if any suitable etch wheels are available in the "aftermarket". Well done on another build to such a high standard. Cheers Richard

I know this is an old thread, but, this company are second to none in product quality and customer service that is truly excellent. I have no reservations recommending them at all. Thanks for the original review, glad I found these people. Regards Richard

Hello, Who is making the decals for your aircraft?

Very nice, a pleasing looking ship. Cheers Richard

Hi, What I have done is cut back the clear dome with 1200 wet and dry with water and fairy liquid (dish soap) as a lubricant. Then use a plastic polish like Novus or tamiya compound to polish up to a high shine. You could just use polishing compounds working from course through to fine. Do inside and out for clarity. I then masked the head with 1mm micro tape and primed it. The tape should give me a clean joint for gluing. I plan to finish painting the inside of the head then tape or use rubber bands to hold the clear dome in place. Then I will run some Tamiya extra thin or plastic weld along the joint, use small amounts of liquid glue and don't flood the joint as there may be a risk of fogging the clear dome. when thoroughly dry I will fill and fair the joint after masking the clear dome. I will use melted sprue or milliput for filling the joint between the clear part and the rest of the head, but like I say, masking it first. I must stress that I do not know for certain that this way will be easy or even work as I have not got round to cementing the clear part. It may be possible to use a non fogging super glue or clear epoxy. I will be trying the liquid glue method. The front of the clear part will be black and fades to transparent so you could start at this place as it can be hidden if it doesn't work. Hope that helps. All the best Richard P.S. Have you seen this same kit built and modified by Yoshihiko Sano, It's certainly worth a look.

I also have this kit that is sporadically being worked on. I spent a lot of time cleaning up. I would be interested to know how you are going to glue the clear head part. I have cut back and polished the transparent part and it can be made a great deal clearer than it comes oob. Looking forward to more of your build. Cheers Richard

Hi Ken, Coming along nicely, The pastel shading on the deck adds a lot of interest.

Hello Jurgen, Yes, Kits are very often somewhat euphemistic in the descriptions given on the box, that said, you have managed to produce another beautiful model. Regards Richard