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theaa2000

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About theaa2000

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  • Website URL
    https://anirudharun.photos/

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Leamington Spa, UK
  • Interests
    Besides modelling? - Photography, Cars, Gaming

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  1. Thanks mate! Very high praise indeed. The foamboard I used is polyurethane foamboard, known as Kapa line foamboard (might be the brand?). I got it from here: https://modelshop.co.uk/Shop/Item/Foamboard-KAPA-line-white/ITM4981 The gutter and drainpipes are scratchbuilt from styrene and brass stock. The styrene u-shaped profiles are from Maquett, but I'm sure that either Plastruct or Evergreen Styrene have comparable profiles - I picked the size closest to what modern gutters scale to in 1/35. The ribbing is added by me using thin styrene strips and Tamiya extra thin. The brass pipe is from
  2. Very small update tonight - moss! So the one on the right is obviously a real photo and what I'm using for reference. From this you can see lichens, multiple colours of moss and green algae-like discolouration of the tiles. Also it's clear the moss builds up along the joint lines of tile and then occasionally larger patches across the tile. For the moss I used Woodland Scenics green turf scatter mixed with water, white glue and green paint because the scatter I had was too light. I then used a toothpick to lay out small clumps on the roof and tease it appropriate shapes and places.
  3. Thanks Keith! It's tough to decide what colours are suitable since most period photos are black & white so I've used modern photos of Normandy assuming old buildings haven't changed much. Still, with damage/weathering the buildings will hopefully look more realistic and less uniform. The summary is just because I forgot to take in progress photos and have a new pen+drawing tablet to play with, but you're right - it works well enough to keep doing it.
  4. Thanks Pete! The JP is a favourite of mine - one of the best looking WW2 designs imo.
  5. An update - the buildings have paint! I stupidly didn't take any in progress photos, so here are some photos of where the buildings are at the moment with some annotations/notes: 1. The walls have been base coated in Vallejo White Grey - it's a nice base for further colours and unifies the base materials. 2. The bricks have been painted a mix of Vallejo Red Brown, Nato Brown and Light Red - they were just hand mixed to various appropriate brick shades and the individual cork bricks on the broken wall and the exposed bricks on the wall were picked out with the differ
  6. You're right, the casting is very good - I know this because figure work has started I primed all the figures, checked for seams/casting imperfections etc and sprayed the base colours - Vallejo Nato black for the uniforms (lightened with Panzer DK grey) and Vallejo Flat Flesh for the hands/faces. I've been working on the highlights/shadows on the figures but there is still more work to do. The heads on the other hand are a bit more advanced - here I used oils for the shadows/highlights, eyes and lips - still work to do I think I have also started work on making the base
  7. Thanks Kelscale. The Meng kit is a really nice build and if you don't change your mind about which variant to build halfway through, the parts fit very well. As for the Zim, I have to confess I did not follow the MP instructions - instead or priming the surface before glue I sanded the plastic roughly to give the glue something to grip onto, and then glued the sheets with wood glue and trimmed them once dry. They went on very well and stayed down once dry. Being paper, they do absorb paint and swell a little so maybe it's worth sealing them with some diluted white glue? I didn't do
  8. Dankeschön MD! I am looking forward to painting 1/35 figures again as it's been a while since my last ones. The Panzer Art crewman looks pretty good so far. I had only seen the CAD pictures before buying it but the casting is great. It seems like it is a 3D printed figure? Or maybe just a CAD design? Eitherway, it's as good as the Alpine stuff which for me is probably the best in 1/35 Yours look excellent - I love the splatters of mud and dirt on the second one. They really tie him into the base and make him feel part of the scene. Top work!
  9. Thanks echen, that is very flattering! Good luck, and I can't wait to see what you build. Unfortunately Dragon support in the UK is like an actual dragon....mythical and non-existent. I had the same problem getting replacement clear parts for a Tiger from them ages ago. Looking forward to seeing what you build!
  10. That's a great series! Can't believe I've never seen it before but it's full of good references for my build. I'll have a better look at real photos to work out how thick an appropriate lintel should be and try to modify the right hand (smaller) building. For the main building I'll have a think and try out a few options. In the meantime, I've started work on the figures - they're a mix of Alpine, Ultracast and Panzer Art from these sets: https://www.alpineminiatures.com/imagepages/35101.html https://www.ultracast.ca/product-p/ult35057.htm
  11. Hi Keith Thanks, glad you like it - it's certainly the most ambitious one I've started to date, especially in terms of detail. I think that I will probably change the right hand building a bit and remove more the wall above the window as @Badder was right and it does look a little weird. As for the main building, on second thought, having the central wooden piece of the window frame still in place also looks odd - why would that survive when the wall has been blown away so I will remove that too. For the cobbles, I need to seal the clay with a wash of white glue + water to stop it ab
  12. Thanks for the kind words Badder! Yes, a stencil would have made painting them stones a lot easier and I wish I'd posted this earlier - you would've saved me a lot of time! As for polishing them up, I'm torn here because I will need to add some rubble from both houses, which obviously will come with lots brick/stone dust etc so I think I will play around with the amount and position of the rubble, the placing of the Jagdpanther and then work out which areas would be dusty or not. You're right about the lintels though - I think on the main building I will see what I can
  13. A little bit of progress on the second building & some info on how they're built. Both buildings are clearly foamboard, but not the common white (polystyrene?) foamboard usually available. On the recommendation of this superb blog from David Neat I bought polyurethane foamboard which is stiffer than the regular stuff and takes paint and glue better. That stiffness obviously gives good rigidity, but also means the foam is sculptable which means I can peel away the paper/card layer to reveal the foam and scribe the brick pattern for the ruined building. Quite a lot h
  14. Thanks Mick! Thanks Steve! All credit to MRP and their excellent paints for the paintjob - they spray so nicely, better than anything else I've used so far! Even in this scale I struggle with some of the details, so good luck with it at 1/72!
  15. Thanks Vytautas - I started mine with no idea on how to finish or display it so it went back in the box for a while. I'm glad you're inspired to finish yours It's a great kit and makes me want to build Meng's Bergepanther now!
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