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    Leamington Spa, UK
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    Besides modelling? - Photography, Cars, Gaming

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  1. Probably too late since you've already sourced some, but these seem to be available: https://roningraphicsaustralia.com/shop/ols/categories/132-decals Although I can't see any UK/European distributors so they would probably take their own sweet time to get here.
  2. Thanks Robert! The bull bar came with no real way to fit it to the kit (not that I expected it to) and since most bull bars aren't just fixed to the bumpers, I had to build some sort of mounting device which could attach to the chassis rails under the bumper. I also planned to use build up this structure as part of the bull bar as well. Not really based on any particular piece but I took inspiration from many different designs I found photos of. No WIP photos but I basically cut some square styrene strip to create something that resembled a welded metal structure - the hardest part was lining up the two "arms" so they both looked ok when lined up in parallel. These brass pins will insert into the chassis so I don't have to rely on a glue only joint Some structure in place but some clean up required still - I didn't take any more WIP photos of this, but it's now painted black and awaiting some metal chipping, but it has been attached: I think it lines up pretty well and really looks the part on the front of the truck! Also despite my best efforts you can see the two arms are both tilted inwards, but at least they're tilted the same way so it looks somewhat intentional.... I realised that the detail in between the lamps is meant to represent a winch but it's a little basic and I didn't want to build the rest of the winch so I'll probably cover it with a tow rope or ratchet strap later. Now time to work on attaching the doors! Cheers,
  3. Thanks Eng Slow progress atm as I'm still waiting on a delivery containing the materials needed to both start the base, and also mount the doors, but I have been working on small details, and more excitingly I did get the 3D printed parts! I've added the door latch hooks for the 3 open doors - they're made from copper wire and styrene sheet. I think they look a bit too big compared to the real ones and stand out a lot but hopefully I can dull them during weathering. I can live with the size issue since they'll not really be visible from most angles in the final build. Anyway, moving to the parts I ordered from Shapeways, well it's a mixed bag frankly - What's good is how quickly they were printed & shipped to me from the Netherlands. Whats great is how detailed the parts printed with the "Smoothest Fine Detail Plastic", like the jack & towing eyes/hooks: That is seriously impressive detail! The print lines are still visible but they're not that noticeable so I'm happy with these. Likewise the radio & BFT parts are also well printed: After priming you can still see the print layers but the fine detail like the keys and the fins on the radios are really impressive! Other parts however aren't as impressive - where the option to print in the "Smoothest Fine Detail Plastic" was not available and I had to choose something else there are issues. Take the fuel/water jerry cans: Looks ok right? Well, when primed, you can see this: Not very pretty frankly. But how does one look with a little light sanding and then a primer coat? Better! and considering I will have a lot of other stuff in the bed, plus a tarp covering some of it, I think this is acceptable. My favourite piece however is the bullbar which really adds to the look of the truck: It lines up with the lights almost perfectly! So now I just need to find a way to mount it to the truck - out comes the styrene strip and the chopping tool Cheers for looking!
  4. Thanks Darryl, that's really cool to hear! Being lazy I really would've liked to buy a kit that already allowed for the doors to be open, but none were available. So it wasn't so much fearless as much as the only option I had Small update today on the doors. After cutting the body apart I was left with a pile of 3 doors (7), and the interior pieces as well (1): But how to make these into doors? Looking at the one uncut door in the kit, the interior piece is spaced out ~5mm from the door - you can sort of see this gap in the 1st photo of this post. I don't think that gap is accurate since that would equate to a 12cm+ thick door in real life, but maybe that's ok. Either way, in order to match the kit I had to space out the grey door interiors from the door itself. Rear & Front door interiors spaced out with styrene and glued to the doors - I used some L angles to brace the spacers and lined them up with the top & bottom straight edges. Then I glued them to the door taking care to line them up with where they should be carefully. But why not use styrene for the sides? Well these aren't completely straight so to handle the more complex shapes I planned to use Milliput As you can see above, the Milliput was pressed in to fill the openings, then smoothed out to match the kit pieces using a wet carving tool. Once dry it was sanded smooth and cleaned up as in the right hand photo - worked as I'd hoped which is nice! On the front doors, the lower grey box is actually supposed to be a small door pocket, so I ground out the middle with a Dremel and a micro chisel before using styrene again to finish off the pocket. Finally I wanted to add the rubber door seals seen all around the edge of the door. Here I used 0.5 & 0.8mm diameter lead wire from Plus model which I shaped around the door and glued with CA glue before using debonder to remove the overspill All 3 doors now look a lot more appropriate! Looking at references, it looks like Aoshima actually got the door details correct so I only need to add a small switch panel for the window controls to the front doors to match the real ones. Also, I should probably add some lock & latch detail, oh... and the windows - I guess I'm not done with these yet. Also, I've gambled on some 3d printed items from the Shapeways marketplace (from a few different designers) - Never ordered before and I probably should've ordered one part 1st to see if the printing and detail are acceptable before spending so much, but too late now! I ordered a Pelican case & some water cans for the pickup bed, a bullbar and roofrack for the pickup and some other small details seen on SF pickups - hopefully it'll be worth it! The parts have shipped so I'll post photos soon! Cheers
  5. Thanks Veg! Small update today. Firstly, I completed the C pillar, which looked like this originally: The kit part only went up to just below the top of the seat and didn't touch the body. Also there was a large gap at the back of the body through which you could see the bed/chassis/floor - even the rustiest of old Hiluxes would not have a hole like this! So I broke out the Milliput and styrene 1. The pillar was extended with styrene to match the profile/angle of the B-pillar and width of the kit part. 2. Milliput (followed by Mr putty) was used to build up the pillar, and smoothed out once dry. 3. A small lip was left so I had somewhere to add the door seal (needed on all the doors as well) And the completed pillar - almost looks like the kit came like this! I also did some work on the kit front bumpers. Like the wheels, they came fully chromed which is just not appropriate: Like an 80's disco, everything is chrome!! But once you remove the attachment points, the bare plastic is visible and no paint can repair it convincingly, so it all has to come off It also shows up finger prints very easily Time for a swim in bleach - 5 minutes and we have.... Clean parts. Since I wanted a metal finish, I needed a gloss black base (Tamiya XF-1) Shiny! Finished bumpers! 1. MRP Chrome - not the shiniest chrome, but a very smooth finish with no visible metallic particles that make it look more like a metal finish as opposed to a metallic paint. 2. Vallejo black as this part appears to be a separate plastic piece on the real vehicle 3. Molotow liquid chrome marker refill painted on for the back of the lights And this is how it looks on the truck: Less shiny but much more appropriate - the rollbar/bed hoop was finished in the same way And of course I've already scratched the finish!!! The styrofoam for the base has been shipped so I can soon start work planning out the dio properly and really get this project moving! Cheers!
  6. Happy New Year everyone! Hope you've all had a good Christmas/holiday. As I mentioned in my post about the DG Artwork figures, I have a plan for another diorama, this time featuring these figures having jumped out of a vehicle due to an ambush. The figures have already been completed: So now I had to find an appropriate vehicle. If this were 1/35th scale, I would be spoilt for choice and could choose from any number of Humvees, or the more SOF appropriate GMVs, Meng's Hilux/Tacoma pickups, a few different Land Rovers etc.... I also would have a lot of accessory options for stowage, weapons etc. But alas, this is the different world of 1/24 scale where the prevailing subjects are non-military vehicles, so unless I wanted these guys jumping out of a Mclaren or a Nissan GT-R, I had to look a bit harder. I've just finished a 1/24 Land Rover so I didn't want to build another (it wasn't the greatest kit either) so a quick search on the great Scalemates for Hiluxes (if that is the right plural?), Tacomas and Land Cruisers was needed. In the end I chose this one: I chose a pickup so I could have one of the figures leaping out of the bed and because there are enough references out there: This one seems pretty similar to what I'm planning to build and I chose this one because.... it was cheap and I could find it in stock. My plan is to have the pickup stopped at a T-junction, doors flung open and the 4 soldiers firing/preparing to fire back against an unseen ambushing force, with some building elements behind and in front of them - not a great description, but hopefully I will have a sketch ready soon to explain it better. However, if any of you have ever built one of these kits you'll be able to spot the problem with my idea pretty quickly. Here's a hint: The doors + body are one piece so some -work is going to be required. Doors 1, 3 & 4 will be open, and 2 will be closed, but even this presents problems: 1. The moulded panel lines are a good guide on where to cut, but because the cuts will be through various curved profiles and varying thickness plastic, I'm going to have to be careful to keep the doors and body useable 2. There's no B-pillar so when the doors are cut off I will have to recreate the B-pillar, matching the side profile of the body and lining up perfectly with the interior elements ...fun? 3. Need to be careful not obliterate all the detail during cutting and to make sure these strips will line up with the opened doors correctly 4. No A-pillar either... It's more of the same on the inside where I will have to cut out the door interiors (1) and leave the moulded in B-pillars intact to build mine from (2). Speaking of the interior: What is this?? These seats really need some work to look less plastic. So, starting with the seats, I removed the head rests with a razor saw, used plastic card to rebuild the profile of the seat back and head rest, then used brass wire for the headrest supports: The second photo shows my attempts of adding some more texture and give the seats a more used look. I used Green Stuff to resculpt the side bolsters to look more worn and wrinkled. Then diluted Mr White potty was stippled over to give a rough fabric texture. Once dry, I gently sanded back the putty to remove sharp edges - looks pretty ugly right? The same putty mixture was used to texture the floor (to vaguely represent carpet) and the rear seats - this photo also shows a few other things I've done - the chassis and B-pillars. The chassis is straight oob so nothing to write home about, but the pillars are built on the kit interior side parts, then the interior door profiles have been built up using styrene sheet and Miliput to match the doors. As I had already cut the doors off by this stage I was constantly fitting and removing the body to make sure the profiles matched - basically this was all a lot of trial error to get B-pillars that would match the door profiles, line up with the body/roof and be strong enough to mount the doors to. So how did I do? See for yourself: So a lot of other things have happened here as well: 1. Front wheel arches added - not the best fit so more diluted putty was used to fill and smooth the gaps to make them look like factory fit pieces 2. Body chrome pieces test fitted - the chrome will be removed with bleach and a more appropriate metallic finish applied 3. The dashboard pieces is in place, but there's a large gap to the body where the glass will fit, so I'm still not sure if any of my surgery has affected the kit 4. Pickup bed filled and gaps filled 5. Rear wheel arches fitted and filled - more mediocre fit 6. B-pillar built up, sanded smooth and perfectly aligned to the roof and door profiles - same on the other side 7. Doors, awaiting interiors, glass and hinges Now, even with the work above, the interior still needed work, so off came the body and here's what was done: 1. Dashboard retextured to represent the moulded plastic dashboards of the 90s 2. Dashboard/door joins filled and reprofiled with putty 3. A better look at the B-pillars 4. Textured seats which I hope to have partially covered by some stowage, if it exists in 1/24 5. B-pillar profile awaiting door lock and other mechanical/electrical details 6. Floor textured and holes for the sidesteps filled - this kit really wasn't designed to be built like this! You may have noticed that weird piece of plastic stuck between putty lumps - yes I know it looks like a mess but it's my attempt at building in a firewall and extending the dashboard/centre console to eliminate the gaps. This is how it looks from the angle it will be visible from - not perfect but once a floor mat has been fitted it should suffice Here's an interim shot with the seats in place, still looking ugly. Dashboard/door/A-pillar - more filler needed when the body is glued in place but looking ok - I know the large angled flat piece of styrene isn't accurate at all, but with the door in place it won't be visible (much). With the interior mostly done, it was time for paint! References showed that sadly real trucks were mostly grey, but I added some colour to match the blue I plan to use for the body: Grey, grey and more grey, but hopefully this shows the textured seats and dashboard in better light - the look a lot less ugly now. The seats were weathered and worn with pencils and oils. Seat back pockets from lead foil were added, and the kit dashboard decal was used. Don't mind all the putty and green stuff behind the seat - that's just where I've been putting my unused bits Seat belt latches added, and carpets added. Now, with the interior mostly done, I can add the body and still have access to add various details and weather the interior later (once I've finalised the colour for the base) - cutting off the doors was a great idea! The body primed and painted in MRP Oxford Blue - too perfect of this build but weathering will change that soon. So how does the painted body look with the painted interior with all my scratchbuilding? Not bad - clearly there's more gapfilling and cleanup needed, before I tackle the door interiors and weather the interiors more and so on and so on, but given how the kit was designed to be built, this is good progress, and now that it actually looks like a pickup I can use for in my diorama, I can make some real progress! Ok, so that was a long post catching up on a couple weeks progress - smaller updates should follow! If you aren't already bored that is Cheers
  7. Thank you! These figures are good but my earliest attempts were very poor - practice, especially on good resin figures/heads, has really helped. Thanks Simon! I think the same thing when I look at some really impressive figures, like the ones in AK's Figure Painting FAQ book! Thank you Terry! Cheers Alan. Glad you like the website as well! These figures were basecoated originally in MRP-161 Dark Brown which I intended to use as the Multicam base colour, but it was too dark, so I went over it Vallejo Model Air 71.026 via an airbrush. Over this I applied highlights where they would likely be (tops of clothing folds, high points etc) using Model Air 71.027 + 71.026. Then only the very highest points received another set of highlights with pure 71.026. With this base I started work on the 2 green and other brown colours (71.010, 71.095 & 71.024) before using a home mixed deck tan and chocolate brown+grey colour for the very smallest light/dark camo dots. The colours above were changed in tone somewhat on each figure/item of clothing to show that the uniforms have faded differently etc - I used a wet pallete for blending amongst various colours - What helped me most was having a sample of the pattern (printed sample image) and good references to match against. This is how I picked up that a lot of colours fade or dirty towards a brown colour anyway so Multicam might start with 6+ colours but doesn't always stay that way. Hope this helps!
  8. Hi All, After my recent Land Rover build I had the bug to build something else in 1/24 scale (and to use some of the A/M stuff that didn't get used on the LR build. At the same time, I remembered some really cool, dynamic looking figures from DG Artwork Minatures, so I put together a plan to build a Toyota Hilux (or Hilux like pickup) in an amush/encounter with a few of the operators from DGs "Black Cohort" range..... strange names are apparently a feature. The figures aren't explicitly stated to be a specific nationality or force, but looking at the gear/helmets/weapons, they're clearly some US based force. So I chose to paint them in some variant of MultiCam/OCP. With my previous 1/16 Legends figure, I used a sample image from what was clearly a very new piece of OCP which was quite green. This showed in the final build - this guy clearly looks like he's using a brand new uniform on his first op. Looking at images of more used OCP uniforms, it seems to get dirty and fade towards a browner tone which hides a few of the 6 colours in the scheme. I didn't keep a record of my painting process, but once the figures were assembled (minus the heads), seams filled and mounted on toothpicks, I primed them all in MRP-161 Dark brown. Then I used a Vallejo Model Air Dark & Light Brown mixed on a wet palette to highlight the top edges & folds. From there I basically pulled out my Vallejo greens, browns & tans and started mixing up colours on the wet palette until they looked right (to me at least) and started painting 1 colour on each figure at a time before finishing with the two chocolate brown & deck tan small dotted colours. From here, I used Vallejo Khaki grey as it is a very good match for the Coyote Brown straps & bags. Sorry if this wasn't the best explanation, but if anyone has any questions about colours, I will try my best to answer them! Everybody smile frown for a group photo! So from left to right: Aside from the camo painting that all of them received, I try to mix it up in terms of weapon painting, boots & gloves. This chap, who I think looks a little like Dr Strange/Benedict Cumberbatch, is going to firing from cover having exited the front passenger side of the pickup truck. This guy with his anatomically questionable posture will also be on the passenger side twisting his way to get a better look at whoevers shooting at him - he's also missing his magazine as that is a separate piece for him alone for .... reasons? I think his face probably came out the best although my photography probably doesn't show it. 4 photos for this chap! - he will be leaping from the bed of the pickup. Again the face is pretty good even if he looks a bit pale and haunted. Also, despite being the only one with a helmet, he obviously thought wearing it would spoil his hairstyle Finally, our driver will be leaning out from behind the drivers side front wheel/fender. This is the figure that made me chose the range since it's such a cool pose - much better than most stiff upright figures you normally see in 1/35th. All the faces were basecoated in a few shades of Vallejo flesh colours before Abt. 502 oils were used for more advanced flesh tones, blending, shadows, the whites of the eyes and the pupils. Finally everything received a coat of VMS flat varnish (my new favourite flat clear!!) before a few drops of Tamiya X-22 for the glossy eyes/scopes. I'll start posting updates soon on the diorama where I plan to take an Aoshima Hilux and cut it up so I can have the doors opened....we'll see how well that goes soon enough I gues! Thanks for looking!
  9. Thank you Gary - glad you appreciated. The composition was something I spent a fair bit of time on as I didn't want it to look like a tank & some figures just dropped on to a base. I tried to tie them all together with the base, each other and the ruined house. Thanks Paolo! Thank you Gordon! Thank you Remus!
  10. Thanks Andy Cheers Marco - Actually the engine is the one bit of the kit that I thought is very well detailed since most other vehicle kits I've built have had very little detail or a fixed bonnet, but anything can benefit from more detail Yeah, it's disappointing since they're often the only company to tackle some subjects (Rafale, Eurofighter in 1/48 etc) so I'm quite nervous about their Blackbird - I hope it's like their 1/32 P-51D/NA which is apparently quite good! Thanks Tony, I'm quite pleased with it despite the kit Thanks Jeroen - I think it's a nice modern paintjob for a classic vehicle Thanks mate!
  11. Hi folks, A different build from me since it's not military this time. I had originally wanted to build Revell's Series III as a more beaten up, rusty vehicle being used by some broke surfer etc, but after I finished the body, I couldn't quite convince myself to mess it up again. I also had more plans to open up the interior and show off some details, but the Revell kit doesn't have separate doors, and the glass isn't actually very clear. Overall, it's an alright kit with decent enough detail, but the fit isn't great at all - there are so many locating holes and stubs that just don't line up and the moulding for some locating pins is just awful so a lot of work was required to get the kit to line up properly and allow the body to sit on the frame correctly - basically it's a typical Revell kit and I'm hoping their SR-71 is a lot better. Anyway...photos! The body colour is MRP Signal Red with Tamiya Clear Red over it to deepen the red, and provide a gloss coat. This was then glossed again with Tamiya X-22 and polished. The roof is MRP Gun Metal with X-22, and MRP Super Silver for the roof rack. The grille is Molotow liquid chrome (also used for the mirrors) which is the best chrome I've ever used! Various details were picked out with a mix of MRP, Tamiya and Vallejo. The majority of the decals are from the kit, but the Kangaroo and Coca Cola ones are from AK (Cartograf prints though) There is some orange peel on the body, but after several attempts at getting a good even polish, I wasn't going to try and redo this again. But hey, the real ones probably weren't built all that well anyway. The kit does provide a pretty decent engine (and a terrible gearbox & transfer case), but I improved it by wiring the distributor, adding a capacitor, fusebox and additional sensor, power and battery wiring. I also replaced the plastic front end built with one from Tamiya tape, but it's not visible at all so that was pointless. Overall this is pretty good detail, but the Revell moulding let's it down somewhat. Thanks for looking!
  12. Cheers Tony! I also went back to planes after this because Tamiya's P-38 was too good to not build! The yellow thing is a Jurassic Park sign, which I put there for no real reason other than it was available and I found it funny Thank you Roberto, that is very nice to hear as my figure painting leaves a lot to be desired. Thanks Badder, for the comments/tips and for following along. I had a few options for the glass: ready made broken glass for models (too pricey), broken microscope slides or glass phone covers (hard to keep glass particles/dust contained) or cutting clear styrene into shards and glueing in place which is what I did here. Thanks again for all the kind words! Cheers mate!
  13. Thank you John You are 100% right about the fuel port decals. I was nervous about chipping decals without tearing them, so I tried on a couple of spare decals on test piece. I tried a knife, toothbrush and a brass wire brush and wasn't really happy with any of them so I thought it was less of a problem to leave the decals as is and pretend the crew repainted them I was unsure about whether I could paint "chips" to look as good as the actual chipping. But you've given me something to practice and improve for the next build though!
  14. Thanks Zigomar - I haven't brightened them up too much to keep the tone of the Olive Drab accurate, but I can see that has meant the grey & shadows are a little dark. I'll work on that for the next one Thank you! Cheers Winenut Thanks Niels Thank you! Cheers Gary, glad you liked it and found the descriptions useful.
  15. Excellent work! The dirt/grime on the underside is very realistic - Really good job here! How is the Hasegawa kit? Does it go together well?
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