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theaa2000

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    www.anirudharun.photos

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    Leamington Spa, UK
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    Besides modelling? - Photography, Cars, Gaming

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  1. Thank you John You are 100% right about the fuel port decals. I was nervous about chipping decals without tearing them, so I tried on a couple of spare decals on test piece. I tried a knife, toothbrush and a brass wire brush and wasn't really happy with any of them so I thought it was less of a problem to leave the decals as is and pretend the crew repainted them I was unsure about whether I could paint "chips" to look as good as the actual chipping. But you've given me something to practice and improve for the next build though!
  2. Thanks Zigomar - I haven't brightened them up too much to keep the tone of the Olive Drab accurate, but I can see that has meant the grey & shadows are a little dark. I'll work on that for the next one Thank you! Cheers Winenut Thanks Niels Thank you! Cheers Gary, glad you liked it and found the descriptions useful.
  3. Excellent work! The dirt/grime on the underside is very realistic - Really good job here! How is the Hasegawa kit? Does it go together well?
  4. Just in case anyone was interested in what the Quinta 3D decals looked like, here is a pick of the main dashboard before it was closed up As you can see, the detail is excellent (especially for 1/48) and is way better than what could be achieved with painting and decals alone. The relief is also better than what can be achieved with printed PE. Although not visible in this pic the dials have a clear layer over them and shine appropriately in the right light. Apparently the graininess seen in the photo can be fixed with a flat coat (and then a gloss coat over the dials) but I didn't know that so left it as is. In the P-38 almost none of this is visible so it's probably not worth it for that, but the detail it makes possible means that if the cockpit/dashboard is visible these are a really tempting option.
  5. Thanks Bobby! Cheers Jeff - glad the descriptions look helpful!
  6. Thanks! It is indeed a great kit - highly recommended! Thanks mate! Tbh it looks pretty goofy fully built with the gear down as well Cheers Pete. The kit is great and practically puts itself together. Thank you!
  7. Thank you, thank you thank you, oh, and thank you! Cheers Scooby Thank you Holzhamer! Cheers George! Thank you Kapam! Thanks Josip - I sympathise there. Kit prices have been going up for a while now. This kit is great but yeah it's pricey! Thank you Djordje!
  8. Thanks Terry! With the Gunze C304 over the AK heavy chipping fluid water + a stiff brush worked reasonably well actually. I wet the surface and gave it a few mins, then went at it with the brush and although I needed a bit of force, the C304 did come up quite nicely. I practised on a piece of styrene chipping Tamiya, Gunze and MRP paints and they all came up with water with varying degrees of effort. Thanks Rob! Really appreciate the feedback on the build & photos. Glad the descriptions were useful as well! Thanks Bertie!
  9. Evening all, Here is my most recent completed build - the excellent 1/48 P-38G Lightning from Tamiya. This is a well known kit so I won't go into much detail about it, but suffice to say it is near perfect, and probably the best kit I've built. Tamiya have done an excellent job designing a kit which is easy to build, goes together well with no gaps, allows for strong location of landing gear/gear doors and has great detail. It's a shame that their decals are so thick. However, that is where Exito Decals come in with this: The set has been reviewed right here on Britmodeller already: Without repeating what Mike has already said, the Exito decals are well printed (by Cartograf! so expect good things) and offer some unique albeit racy marking options. I chose the 3rd option, Lt. Edgar L. Yarberrys P-38G of the 48th FS as used in Tunisia in June 1943. This allowed me to use the nose art in the decal set, and play around with some interesting weathering options given the desert conditions. Without further waffling, here's the build I think this is my best build so far (very few mistakes which is pretty good for me ) and I'm tempted to get another P-38 already, though I may wait for the almost inevitable P-38J or L from Tamiya. I used Gunze/Mr Color C304 for the OD, and MRP Neutral Grey for the...er, netural grey. Is C304 the right shade? I don't know - it seems a close match to the spray can Tamiya recommend in their instructions, and to some reference photos of restored P-38s I've seen, but is probably a little light for the OD used, but hey, maybe the Tunisian sun has bleached it? Aside from these, I used MRP signal red, MRP black, Tamiya flat yellow, Tamiya LP-11 silver, MRP interior green and Tamiya Nato black for the rest of the build. To give a sense of random fading/weathering, I pre-shaded the model prior to the base colours, and then used Abteilung 502 oils for further panel to panel variation. I used a few different sepia, umber, grey and sand shades to add some random fading similar to what is visible in period photos. Panel lining was done with Ammo blue-grey wash (over an X-22 gloss coat), but a lot of areas with heavy traffic were redone with Abt. 502 Starship filth thinned with VMS universal weathering carrier (standard). The exhaust staining is heavily thinned MRP tan and this is the only part I am not too happy with as it looks a little too light, but I can't change it now so it stays! The Exito decals went down well, yet again reaffirming my faith in anything printed by Cartograf! Speaking of, Exito don't provide all the stencils, and I didn't fancy using the Tamiya decals (I used one in the cockpit and it took some work to conform to a slight curve) so I used some stencil decals from Fundekals, also printed by Cartograf which were also excellent. Although the real P-38 (and Tamiyas decal placement guide) have a lot of stencils marked out on the underside, I didn't apply all of them because I'm lazy and not all would be visible. The Tamiya kit requires the gun barrels to be added early in the build, but I would almost certainly snap them off, so I used a Quickboost set which allows the barrels to be added later. The Quickboost set is well detailed, fits well (unlike a lot of resin replacements) and means no snapped barrels, so given it's low price it's a win for me! Also visible here are the Eduard resin wheels which I used because the Tamiya main wheels are supplied in 2 halves and I would ruin the tread cleaning them up. As a plus, the Eduard ones are bulged nicely. The weathering was done with oils over an X-22 gloss coat, and once that was sealed, watercolour pencils from AK and Faber-Castell. The "Babe" in question...Lt. Yarberry had nice taste This was the only decal where the carrier film didn't disappear that well and is still a little visible but not the end of the world. The trademark chipping on the wing roots was done with Tamiya LP-11 silver and AK heavy chipping fluid. The toughness of the Gunze C304 lacquer meant a lot of work was needed to chip it, but that just meant I had more control of where I was chipping. I sprayed, chipped and resprayed the wings a couple of times trying to get this right. The same method was used to chip the nose and engine covers especially at the panel lines where the crew would handle them during maintenance. The leading edge paint chips were done with Humbrol masking fluid applied with a sponge over the LP-11. Also visible here are the HGW belts - my first attempt at using them, and whilst they look excellent, I am not sure the effort is worth it in 1/48 - at least HGW provide enough spare buckles! The staining on the props/cowls was done with oils and pencils. The turbos were painted with a mix of Tamiya dark iron, silver and JGSDF brown, and weathered with thinned MRP lacquers and oils. Another look at the nose art The landing gear and bays were all done with LP-11, which is a great silver paint; it sprays extremely well and is very tough once try - must be why it's always out of stock in the UK. The tyres are Tamiya Nato black, and the weathering is again Abt. 502 oils, Ammo washes and pencils. I added radio wiring with Plusmodel 0.2mm lead wire to add some detail to the radio bay. Also visible is a bit of the Quinta studio 3D cockpit decals. Again these were something I used for the first time and they look excellent (although a little grainy), but in the case of the P-38 so little is visible once built that they aren't worth it - if the kit you're building is more visible then go for it though! Also visible are some of the Fundekals stencils. Something I struggle with is shiny oleo cylinders. Silver paints don't give the necessary shine, buffing a small area is difficult and although it was shiny, the Uschi chrome polishing powder seemed to lose it's lustre quickly. So I used a Molotow chrome marker refill, applied with a brush and this gives a very shiny, smooth finish. Given how hard it is to see the underside of the centre section, I didn't concentrate weathering here, focusing instead on the more visible areas. I applied some sand oils behind the gear as if it was thrown up by the wheels. The rest of the grey underside was weathered with oils again. The staining is again oils and pencils. The decals settled in very well over the surface detail That's it then - sorry for the rather large images, but I also upgraded my camera to the awesome Nikon D850 and whilst it's great the images are quite large! Anyway, thank you all for looking! Cheers,
  10. Thanks mate! The only one I've seen in real life was the very dusty example at the USAF Museum in Ohio, which was also in very low light so it basically looked completely flat black I'm happy to have one in the cabinet finally as it's an iconic shape! Cheers Andy! I hadn't heard that Bush anecdote, but given what I've heard about F-22/F-35 operating costs I can imagine the coatings are pretty damn fragile! Glad you like the model as well! Well, I'm single so that could be why I actually have 3 cabinets - the third one is to the right and is for armour (it has my JP diorama, the Abrams and a PzH 2000). And space for a 4th if I'm particularly productive!
  11. As much as I love the Tomcat. it's not my best model so until I build a better one, it stays below your eyeline. Thanks mate!
  12. Thanks! There is indeed some space left, and a few kits waiting to fill it: Tamiya's 1/48 P-38F/G or 1/32 P-51D, Zoukei-Mura's 1/48 F-4EJ Kai Phantom & Kitty Hawk's 1/35 HH-60 Pave Hawk (which I don't think actually fits in the cabinet). I think I will start the P-38 next because I've seen/read so many good reviews on it, I'm very excited about it! Thanks Gary, glad you like it!
  13. Well, it's only been 2ish weeks, but I think this build is done! and for me that is a record I completed the weathering using watercolour pencils, enamel washes and applied a matte (more satin tbh) coat to give the Nighthawk it's trademark flat finish. Here are a few teaser photos: And the RFI post: Thanks to everyone who commented and liked!
  14. Afternoon all, Well after some very long builds I wanted to do something quite simple, and what could be simpler than Lockheed's hopeless diamond simple triangle! This is the 1998 Tamiya kit which showed it's age in places in terms of fit & detail but still had some impressive moulding and engineering so it went together very quickly - all in all this was a 2 week build, which for me is very impressive - the one before this took 6 months! For those interested, there is a very short WIP thread here: And now the finished build In hindsight I should've applied more contrast during shading as it's hardly visible now apart from in some areas like the tails. Oh well, something to consider if I build another all black plane...like Revell's upcoming 1/48 SR-71? I kept weathering to a minimum as most photos showed the Nighthawks (and this one in particular) were kept quite clean with only minimal staining/fading and some fuel stains The pronounced edges were highlighted with watercolour pencils as the references showed paint fade in these places The weathering was done with watercolour pencils, pastels and enamel washes. The one bit of colour on the model is hardly visible due to the angle of the tails, but they can still be moved which is good! A view I have always loved! The underside received some stronger weathering, panel variation and more prominent streaking as seen on the real planes Here you can see the colour variation on the exhaust due to heat, and some subtle streaking on the more vertical panels - as on the real thing these aren't very visible head one but can be seen from an angle. And here it is in it's place with my other 1/48 builds....now what next? Thanks for looking!
  15. Thanks exdraken! Alas, I had started the decals by the time I saw this, so I'll have to save this for another build. I chose to build 88-842 from the Caracal sheet since it had some interesting kill markings & yellow tail markings featuring the 8th Fighter Squadrons logo: the ferocious Black Sheep . Anyway, decaling is all complete now, and all that work with the X-22 and polishing cloths paid off because the Caracal markings settled down perfectly with no silvering. Yes the Nighthawk is a pretty easy plane to decal since it has very few markings, and fewer panel lines and no rivets, but it still went well - I'd definitely recommend Caracal products on the basis of this! Pretty straightforward markings - basically nothing in comparison to say the Tamiya F-14D An extreme close up - the decals are very thin so whilst the film is visible at this zoom, it's not really noticeable after a varnish coat, especially in direct light. Nose markings done - 842 didn't even have a pilots name. I had some trouble trying to align the tail markings since there's no horizontal or vertical lines to reference so in the end I guessed based on Caracal's instructions. Practically invisible With decals done (and protected under another gloss coat), it was time for the first weathering step - a panel line wash using Flory Models water-based clay wash. I've found these are much easier to wipe off on a gloss finish so I did it now. I used the gray wash knowing that it would darken with later weathering and the matte coat. Apply it over the lines, wait and remove with a damp paper towel, leaving: Looks very stark for now Top in progress. With that finished, I wanted to take off the gloss finish a little because I was going to handle the model and didn't want to leave finger prints everywhere, so I used a new (to me) product - Tamiya's Lacquer flat clear which is more of a satin clear tbh. It went down well thinned with their own thinner As for where I'm going with the weathering, these two photos are decent reference: At the pronounced panel edges, there is some paint wear showing a lighter shade, arbitrary colour patches, staining from fuel but no chipping, so I'll start that now before moving on to the underside. Thanks for looking!
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