chuck314d

That is a great looking Sabre Jet.

I thought about deleting my posting because I never had anyone answer. I also own a copy of a book titled "Messerschmidt '09 Gallery", ( I think that's the title) that contains paint chips of Luftwaffe aircraft. And NO I don't want to sell it.

how do I delete this post????

Has anyone tried using any of those micro-mesh type polishing clothes? Maybe regular sandpaper is too course. Just a thought.

It is titled "British Aviation Colours of World War Two, Volume Three. Part of the RAF Museum Series. It is mainly reprints of official instructions on RAF colors and it is rather dry reading. I bought it mainly because it contains a page of camouflage paint chips at the back, and I have always wondered just how accurate these facsimile paint chips are. Anyone familiar with this publication?

My test yielded less than great results. I really can not see much of a difference using Parafilm M noodles than I get using regular masking tape. Oh Well.

I am going to try something similar to the technique of using rolled "noodles" made from Blutac putty to achieve a soft edge when airbrushing camouflage. I am going to try using "noodles" made from rolled up strips of Para-film M. I have trouble getting Blutac to roll thin enough for 1/72 scale. And its easy to squish and deform after its on the model. Will let you know how it works.

My hope is in seeing a new tool 1/72 F-84F Thunderstreak and a new F-80 Shooting Star someday soon.

I have read that it is the Academy kit, with a lot of extras. I like photo etch, but I prefer to add my own details from bits of plastic and fine wire. I think you can have too much detail from resin parts. Just my thoughts.

That would work. Thank You.

I am in need of the Instructions to the Academy 1/48 scale P-38F Lightning kit "Glacier Girl". Can anyone help?

Good looking model. I love the finish.

Much better than my first effort.

Beautiful.

It looks just like the real thing. And I have seen the real thing close up.

Very realistic looking paint job.

Great Job.

Look good. Better than the one I built.

1/48th Scale.

Finally finished one. Been working on it since early March, trying to avoid my usual blunders and mistakes. Made a few. But its finished. What to do next...

For what they are worth. This applies mainly to the Testors line of Acrylic Paints. But it may also apply to other brands. First of all.Testors Acryl is not as "user friendly" as Polly Scale. It should not be reduced with anything other than Testors own brand of Universal Acrylic Thinner. It has something to do with the paint formula Testors uses. Even distilled water will adversely affect it, reducing its ability to adhere to plastic. Secondly. The first coat to go on a model should be applied "wet". My usual method with Polly Scale was to air-brush a few light "mist" coats first, give them a few minutes to dry, and then apply heavier coats. This does not seem to work as well with Testors Acryl. This was learned by accident. I have started using my old Paasche model H again, and I was practicing with some Testors, using it straight from the bottle with just a few drops of their thinner. The Model H gives a courser, less "Misty" spray than my expensive gravity feed tool. So the paint was quite wet when it reached the surface of my old Paint Hulk. I learned later that the paint adhered better than it ever had before. Not peeling off with masking tape. Well. That is all I have to say. Maybe this will be of some help. Maybe not.