Kuro Nezumi

Good evening. Allow me to present 'Christl', a Fw 190D-9 flown by one Major Gerhard Barkhorn of JG 6. This is Tamiya's JV 44 boxing of their Fw 190D-9 in 1/72. Paints were Gunze Sangyo Aqueous and varnished with Winsor & Newton Artists' Acrylic Gloss and Matt varnish. I did give up on the spinner spiral as the decal wouldn't fit then broke up, then I forgot to paint it on. Extras include: Eaglecals decals Eduard SUPER FABRIC seat belts SAC metal undercarriage parts (as I lost one of the retraction struts) Scratch-built cannon barrels, antenna and pitot tube from brass rod Underside hoop from spares Cockpit seat cushion moulded from Magic Sculpt (though the seat belts are obscuring it) A few bits and pieces in the cockpit scratch-built from plastic Wiring from EZ line Weathering procedures include: Chipping with acrylic paint applied with a sponge and brush, and with a silver pencil Filters with Mig Ammo filter and thinned oil paint Mottling on the propeller with thinned oils Mud splashes with Mig Ammo Nature Effects and Splashes Oil dot fading Shadowy areas highlighted with thinned black oil paint Panel lines with Mig Ammo Panel Line Washes Streaking with AK Interactive Streaking Grime and thinned black oil paint Exhaust marks with a home made stain mix and Tamiya Smoke Dirt accumulation on the wheels with Mig Ammo Pigments

Very nice! Well done!

Great looking Albatros! Well done!

Great review! Definitely a 'consider' for a scratch-build project. It's a shame that there aren't any kits of the Nassau sisters in 1/350.

I received mine today! Easily the most beautiful kit I've seen!

Brilliant finish! Well done!

Cute little car! Well done!

Plastic kits are formed by injecting molten plastic into moulds and can be glued with regular model glue, whereas resin kits tend to be much more expensive, probably because of their production method: having polyurethane resin being poured into moulds. They also need to glue resin parts together with either super glue or two-part epoxy. Cleaning the parts with soapy water is also very important to remove any releasing agent. Resin model kits tend to be more detailed than plastic kits. Hope this helps.

Superb pair of A-wings, Andy! I agree with you about a B-Wing from Bandai; we kinda need one.

I've found some Vickers Light tanks here. They're resin and bit pricey, but a thought if you feel like tackling resin.

Hobby Boss do the Vickers Medium tanks, Bronco do several A10 and A13 cruiser tanks, and Accurate Armour do a very expensive A1E1 heavy tank and the Matilda I that Bullbasket mentioned. Hope this helps.

Great build! Well done!

Great 190! Well done!

Lovely bomber! Well done!

There are several reviews on Imperial Primer that have found this problem: thin consistency, poor coverage and bubbles. I believe the primer itself is the issue. For an undercoat, I suggest Halfords Grey primer spray. Hope this helps.

Very sweet! Well done!

Great finish! Well done!

Have you tried Oyumaru? Put the Oyumaru block in boiling water for 3-5 minutes, then press it over the part, wait for it to cool and harden, then press some milliput inside the impression. Once the milliput has completely cured, tidy up the new part and glue it to the model. Hope this helps.

Very cute! Great build!

Such elegance and beauty! A truly great model!

I second Oyumaru. The best thing about it is that it is totally reusable. I used it to make new undercarriage doors for a Canadair Sabre using Magic Sculpt as the medium, and they looked fine for 1/72, so barrels should work out great being more solid.

Citadel have a wide range of metallics under their new formulated range. They are a tad grainier than the Vallejo Metal Colour range, but are useful for small areas. Hope this helps.

Lovely engine! Well done!

Truly beautiful! I have this kit in my stash, so I may have to start it after seeing your masterpiece! BTW, how was the PE cowling to work with?

Easily mistaken for a larger scale! Well done!