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dhdove

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Posts posted by dhdove

  1. There are a few other small detail differences between an S2-A and an S-2E. The most noticeable are the squared-off wingtips compared to the extended ones on the -E, and the rear of the engine nacelles, which on the -E extend up above the wing's upper surface. To be completely accurate, the -E fuselage should be a scale foot longer, which I think Kinetic achieved by substituting the fuselage halves. The longer fuselage allowed for shorter tailplanes.

    Thanks for that,

    Hope I used the right parts.......

    TonyS

  2. Jessica

    That's great news! Thank you.

    Martin, looks like you won't need to add any nose weight at all, why bother since the tail bumper wheel assy. is quite substantial and easily supports the rear end.

    Thanks both for your kind comments.

    Just one or two other points....

    I added Tamiya tape seat belts to busy up the cockpit a bit. I wanted to see more of the ventral radome so built it in the extended position. I was worried it would ground out when on its wheels but this wasn't the case. Quite a few of the parts weren't a great fit and needed some dry fitting and fettling before glue, this kit isn't up to Tamiya fit standards.

    It seems that this kit and the other Kinetic Tracker (S-2E/S-2G) share the same sprues, I had loads of bits left! The only difference I suspect being the instructions and decals. Why do I feel a bit cheated when manufacturers do this?............😕

    Otherwise a fun build and really captures the essence of the original, 8/10 from me. I especially like the way that the huge props are represented when completed.

    TonyS

  3. Hi all

    77a70221e290f8fa2133dc3de55a7aad.jpg

    Next up in my US Navy Cold War series is this Kinetic offering. It was a good build tho the instructions supplied are a little vague with regard to options offered and the decalling information misses some decals completely so some research is required.

    3dd511af558080555e967df45fd23274.jpg

    Despite filling the nose with weight and also the front of the engine nacelles this kit was still a taildragger! So I cheated and extended the rear bumper wheel leg and used that to hold the tail up, not accurate I know but effective!

    29acba34973a0ecda6bc24fbc895f216.jpg

    I managed to completely destroy the large wing walk decal when I tried to apply it so I hand painted the wing walk with Tamiya German Grey XF-63. Otherwise the kit decals were fine.

    40e1aa6bcd0db5cf906d0904b6d40733.jpgI scratch built a searchlight from Milliput as nothing is provided in the kit!

    3242fa1fce4516baf1a3a95dba2807f8.jpg

    Overall it builds up into a great representation of this wonderful looking aircraft.

    6bff79f1e7ecf23dd685323d5e84e12e.jpg

    Mad boom, radomes, searchlight, sonobuoy dispensers, rocket pods, torpedoes, what's not to like 👍

    Next up, F3H-2M Demon by HobbyBoss.

    Thanks for looking.

    TonyS

    • Like 15
  4. Gimme shelter

    Thanks for your kind comments! Don't worry about the size, I was looking at the new Revell limited run 1/48 B1B earlier today, now that IS a monster, nearly a metre long and just under a metre wide, GULP!

    Lightning 770

    Yes, I agree. It was a bit of a bother but I followed advice from a previous builder as detailed and it worked for me. I don't think it's the best fitting kit ever produced.......

    BTW just to re-iterate, this build is now on hold pending tailfin ID marking C-Charlie.......can anyone help?

    TonyS

  5. Hi all

    I'm building the Trumpeter kit but XM173, former gate guardian at Bentley Priory, Tailcode C - Charlie.

    WIP here....

    http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234978210-my-first-wiptrumpeter-132-f1af3-lightning/

    I've used the generic Xtradecal sheet for the serial numbers but the 16" Tailcode letters only come in plain black, white or yellow. 56 Squadron used a black on white letter and also the font was an "American football" type with octagonal corners.

    Does anyone know of a sheet which contains these in 1/32, or could someone print a couple up for me (expenses paid).

    Hope you can help.....

    TonyS

  6. OK, so I'm nearing the end......

    Tweeky, thanks for that, I've painted the Sharks fin aerial on the cockpit accordingly, tho realised that I've attached it in reverse.......it's staying that way!

    I've now decalled but not lacquered

    ed29b10ed592a11da6b6d8374358f249.jpg

    I think it looks OK, seat turned out nice

    e87c658bfe37e6683a50534c59ed67c4.jpg

    Here's the underside

    e7632360b3107ce02ee4200cccd29cf4.jpg

    CAN ANYONE HELP???

    I'm modelling this as XM173, former gate guard at Bentley Priory and in 56 Squadron service tail code C- Charlie (initially V- Victor I believe). I have been unable to find a black on white 16" letter for the fin. My Xtradecal Lightning serials decal sheet has plain black, plain white or yellow only.

    Does anyone know of a sheet with this code on or possibly could someone print a couple for me - I have never printed a decal!

    That's it.

    TonyS

    • Like 2
  7. Thanks for all the feedback guys!

    Re the missiles. Since I'm building this for a friend from his kit I used the Firestreak decals from my own kit to make up two missiles. I applied them as shown on the decal sheet......I did this before you posted back, hope they're OK?

    9c484563709fe4c5b25a039b9695b5f7.jpg

    I'll build my own kit with Redtops and use the spare decals from his kit, maybe I'll do the F3 version, 111 Squadron, nice yellow and black scheme....

    I started decalling the airframe this afternoon and having built the Airfix kit decided to start with the most difficult, the wing walkway outlines.

    072f98eea44bb4af9e199a062962ec07.jpg

    They didn't quite apply perfectly and they are not the correct length, but with ten inch long 1/8" wide decals I cut my losses eventually and decided to live with them, they wanted to fold under etc.

    BTW the decals are not the right length for the wings but a bit of careful, judicious trimming almost set things right. I'll live with the errors.

    c5019b06b07863751761d4cda004e4ba.jpg

    The decal instructions seem to be wrong re the rear end, showing one side in front of the panel line and the other to the rear. All my contemporary photos show the dotted line straddling the panel line so that's what I did.

    For some strange reason the port wing roundel self destructed on the edge when I applied Micro Sol (none of the very delicate wing walk lines did this?) I may touch it in later. More likely I'll leave it as a bit of Mach 2 weathering....

    d105e54ea9dd2f0046c0b63fbb561c17.jpg

    My misgivings over lack of weathering are starting to recede. As always as the decals go on the improvement is huge!

    I'll still probably run over with pastels tho.

    Here's the cockpit canopies after painting and decals, the masks did a brilliant job but note how the decals are too big for the canopy.....I'll fit them as is and they'll just overlap the fuse.....

    2d040f83783fa755e90bbaa8939ace45.jpg

    17020db1bc3c4989058b52cae575f356.jpg

    That's it, thanks and please keep the comments and advice coming.

    Best

    TonyS

    • Like 2
  8. Hi all

    Well, some time has gone by and progress has been a little slow I'm afraid.

    My airbrush returned in perfect condition as promised by Martin at air-craft.net (thanks Martin!). So I've embarked on getting the airframe together.

    Studying contemporary colour photos seemed to show that the 56 Squadron aircraft were pretty clean other than local repairs eg top nose cannon covering plates so I've not done too much in terms of colouring panels. I'll take another look after decals with pastels.

    I've given the whole airframe a coat of Tamiya Gloss lacquer ready for decals

    8e205ba2c05e00ecfa5eaf2d16a4dbba.jpg

    During this process I've managed to break off the right hand elevator......twice.....I know, lack of care and hamfistedness. Second time around I drilled out the locating holes and put a steel panel pin in, hopefully that'll hold it.

    68a96c415744dbcbf9832f32938d6acb.jpg

    I've replicated the nose cannon blanking plates in 15 thou plastic card (tho I think this is still too thick) and attached the intake ring with it's BareMetal chrome covering, not perfect but looks OK I hope?

    d0ba4cc771ee476c877d623af5d5f4f6.jpg

    Some light smoke effects on the APU exhaust were added.

    I had some difficulty exactly locating the Eduard canopy masks but got there in the end, here in primer

    835f33f02b9d8a1078a123ac57ab05ba.jpg

    Masked and painted the anti dazzle panel in Tamiya Flat Black and then protected with Vallejo Satin Varnish 70.522. I still think this is a little too Matt but I don't intend to do it again. I had to add a little filler between the fuse and the nose ring, also slightly scuffed the Bare metal so the primer and top coat would grip.

    22b447d7ae945aaff1ab37d4ff864fc9.jpg

    Canopies then got the same treatment of paint and lacquer....

    3642e4975b29404049f85e7638c7b1db.jpg

    Next up, think about some decals....

    QUESTION

    Is it me or is there only one decal for each type of missile with this kit???

    I can't believe it.....the paint and decal page show a Firestreak on one side and a RedTop on the other but the instructions show them as alternates in pairs, surely there can't just be decals for one of each missile?

    Then again it's a Trumpeter......I'm not sure I like trumpeter kits....

    Best Wishes

    TonyS

    • Like 1
  9. Hi all

    So at last I've managed to make a little progress this weekend, I painted the fuse and wings and elevators separately with the Tamiya TS-17 gloss aluminium and then assembled the major airframe parts using a combination of poly glue and CA.

    d55e9b5a70c8c3294ab903d46acf1494.jpg

    88dc17ab6a124ca528001bda7e86f39b.jpg

    ba1d4b329dcbc0b59f20b7b0684db352.jpg

    One thing I have realised, 1/48 is ideally sized for my workbench, this 1/32 Lightning is a real handful!

    My next plan is to highlight and "lowlight" selected panels with a brighter and duller silver shade, although contemporary photos show the aircraft as pretty shiny all over, but I guess it will look a bit more realistic.

    The airframe hasn't been lacquered yet hence the masking still on the spine and tail which has been lacquered.

    I had some problems with the fuse half join showing way too obviously, some sanding has sorted this although at the expense of some detail, especially on the belly tank. Oh well......

    Next up

    Panel detail

    Lacquer

    Cockpit

    Missiles

    Decals

    Stand .....

    ....and finish!

    Thanks for looking in!

    TonyS

    • Like 1
  10. Hi Guys

    Thanks for your interest :-)

    It's been a while since I posted the reasons for which will become clear.

    I painted the fuse spine and wing and elevator leading edges with Tamiya XF-1 Flat Red which I've used on a previous lightning and seems to hit about the right shade....

    6fdb26a2da173e47c9eecfdc5f177175.jpg

    I then covered the fuse spine with X-22 clear lacquer to protect it.

    It was time to think silver. I'd done some research but there seemed to be some conflicting opinions so I thought I'd try trial and error.

    Tamiya X-11 Chrome silver first.

    I went to fill my airbrush and DISASTER! What did I find? What looked liked solid clear bathroom sealant filled my lovely H&S Evolution. I'd neglected to clean it after last use and days later it was now full of dried clear lacquer.....oh how I cursed myself!

    I had to get quite robust to clean out all the offending solidified lacquer but eventually I managed it. So on with the silver.

    I knew straight away all was not well, it wouldn't feed the paint properly, still more grunge to clean out. A second attempt was then made and it went from bad to worse, bubbles in the pot, paint up the trigger...OH NO! Had I damaged the seals with such industrial cleaning.

    I called my guru on all things airbrush related, Martin at Air-Craft.net who calmed me down and promised to despatch a seal kit immediately. He was as good as his word and I was soon presented with a bag full of little rubber seals.

    Now I don't know if you air-brush types have ever completely stripped one, I hadn't and I soon came to appreciate that they're complex little beasties. However I did my best and all seemed to go well so on with the silver.....

    DOH! It's still not right, spattering and inconsistent. But the X-11 certainly seems too bright, I persevere with X-32 Titanium Silver but that's too dark and a mix of the two doesn't seem too good either and the airbrush is just getting worse despite some more seal replacement.

    It was at this point that I hoisted the white flag, called Martin again and asked if I could send it back to him for diagnosis and repair. He was as calm as ever and I felt better so it was parcelled and despatched.

    Meantime with a flash of lateral thinking I bought a can of Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminium (which is probably what I should have done in the first place).

    I got my repaired airbrush back after a just a couple of days, arriving this morning Special Delivery..........along with the old body that I had managed to put a thumping scratch in with my ham fisted cleaning efforts. OOOOPS!

    So. Not much progress in the last couple of weeks I'm afraid.

    Tomorrow we try the TS-17.......

    Xenol

    Pre shading panel lines with pens is my lazy way of doing it. It can be very effective but is somewhat dependent on the top coat. The silver that I did manage to apply rapidly obscured it with only a light coat so I may have to rethink.

    That's it for now, I hope to be able to make some actual progress over the next few days....

    .....wish me luck.

    TonyS

    • Like 1
  11. Well, the fuse went together fine, phew!

    Fin glued on

    1892a1cd56f00801ac45530904c749bb.jpg

    Panel lines roughly marked with Faber Castell shades of grey artist pens, but I don't know how they'll fare under the silver....

    Now I'm thinking of starting to get some paint on, but...this is one BIG kit so for the first time ever I'm thinking of painting the fuse, each wing and the elevators separately and then assembling the components post painting.

    Not sure if this is a good or bad idea, bound to get glue onto the painted surfaces on assembly requiring touch up :-((

    Any suggestions gratefully received.

    TonyS

    • Like 5
  12. Time for an update....the fuse halves are together! Yay!!!

    Anyway, rewind slightly

    Here's the APU exhaust outlet with the pipette cut off. Not the best...the soft vinyl(?) didn't lend itself to sanding, this is the second attempt using a very sharp scalpel, still not perfect but I'm not sure I want to meddle with it anymore.

    b9ec6c9a86c45cd5b81ec45368758532.jpg

    I started second guessing myself on the strength of my new bulkhead which the acrylic rods will rest against when it's on it's stand, so added a reinforcing beam from thick sprue inside the fuse. Result. It's now rock solid.....

    bceba4e55ca9a75f7c29344f93e8691a.jpg

    After some thought I assembled the intake tube and radome and painted it

    ceb4536955e8ecb4713b96eb0a198d1d.jpg

    The nose ring was painted and then covered with chrome Bare Metal Foil, I like it.

    4a666b044e718584436c8e9907b9b302.jpg

    .....the radome is a colour I mixed myself from Tamiya sky and deck tan.

    The cockpit tub fitted very well (amazing) tho I had to butcher the top of the intake tube slightly to prevent fuse distortion

    ff0252628c22ab679ffbd7c2392e5dc0.jpg

    Nearly ready to assemble, here's the rear end, jet pipes and the rear of the new bulkhead with sponge to rest the stand rods against,

    60dcfda2684f9e1dd4bbc11acf9e401b.jpg

    Then, plenty of glue and try not to rush, this is a big fuse to assemble but I decided to do it in one hit.

    bee814347df6a03d2919e857e653903c.jpg

    I took the white tac out....

    805fcd91b0cd021a348345b73d7ef99d.jpg

    Then taped it up for tonight

    27cddf11a48b0267dc8d040d92309081.jpg

    The Tamiya pot gives an idea of size, I popped the fin on for effect.

    That's it!

    I hope it all works out OK.

    Tomorrow some tidying up, nosegear doors and maybe fit the flying surfaces which I have pre-assembled and primed.

    Hope you enjoyed.

    V Best

    TonyS

    • Like 2
  13. Hi all

    Much butchery of late.......

    Following AAbshiers lead I have been trying to solve the intake trunking problem. I have moved the trunking forwards approx 5mm and modified the nose ring to take it (some light carnage)

    e9246f377a294bc9a17838e4a9c4adbc.jpg

    I know, it looks awful!

    Since I'm building wheels up I was ruthless with the U/C bay as I couldn't seem to get the fuse halves to fit, but this wasn't the problem.

    The fuse narrows to the front and didn't want to close around the trunking.......which is wider now since it moved forwards.....

    So then I ground away the outside of the trunking and the inside of the fuse halves, eventually I have reached a point where the fuse halves fit together and the intake trunking meets the nose ring. This was not a job for the feint-hearted and I was worried I had written off the kit at one point.

    6e2cd7f93cea767f4226c406210903cd.jpg

    However, all seems to be well and looking down the intake it seems fine. There may be a need for some judicious filling and touching in.....

    Moving the intake trunking forwards has led to the radar cone being too far forward so again, following AA's lead I have swiped 5mm off that to retain the right "penetration" of the radome through the nose

    3ee4e06700dcaca16580680ee532f458.jpg

    Finally I have been opening up some fuse vents etc. I didn't have a suitable straw available so have employed a flexible pipette for the port rear outlet.

    a34284d04b91eb4dfcd7b1f124a13d75.jpg

    If it works I'll cut it down to size and paint accordingly.

    I'm hoping to close the fuse in the next couple of days and praying that things are more straightforward from then on!

    Best

    TonyS

    • Like 2
  14. So here is a little progress....

    With regard to the mount I've received the 300X15 mm acrylic rod and have modded the jet pipes

    6cd722ade0a49f1acab797c867bec868.jpg

    Above here's what would have been the aft end of the engines with holes for the rods showing the tools used to make the holes.......below the whole assembly dry fitted. I've doubled the thickness of this part with plasticard to increase it's strength.

    47bb7fd2bf5f57f5a72883be0ffb17fa.jpg

    f72b35d9533073515d0d7575aa03c2aa.jpg

    The rods will go into drilled holes in an oak base at 70 degrees from the horizontal (20 degrees off the vertical). The only thing not shown is the sponge face for the rods to rest against.

    Due to the torque exerted on the rear fuse by the mount I'm thinking of adding a load of two pac epoxy glue around the jet tubes as reinforcement.

    Here's the cockpit tub with basic seat

    69a3c8e85cfea5e74340a35ca44867b0.jpg

    The kit seat isn't great and the cockpit seems to be a figment of the imagination of a Trumpeter employee!

    Here's the basic kit seat painted

    24d6c5e0878df36a0bd2248cb1b2efba.jpg

    Research confirmed that the F.1A cockpit was all black (this makes the Eduard zoom etch for the F.1A in grey/blue totally incorrect) so I chose to use a new technique using "oily" pastel crayons and imagination to highlight raised detail in a similar way to dry brushing then a coat of satin varnish.

    ef2c1f5605a699d08086245aa8565039.jpg

    The Eduard zoom seat kit improved the seat hugely.....

    39cd5c92150fc4d92723ce2487e20e03.jpg

    The tub was a little troublesome to assemble but patience won out in the end and dry fitting in the fuse seems to be good.

    Whilst losing patience with the tub I decided to start on the wings which was straightforward. The kit doesn't list a wheels up option but with a very little work to the hinges the doors fitted in the up position very well.

    87dce050c19c51af2131b54d379b36a6.jpg

    Some sausages of white tack provided a resilient backing to support the doors whilst the glue set in the flush position

    5562a4df4496bde27ac518f01f679784.jpg

    I think the end result is fine, tho the white tac is in there forever.....

    fba7b7dd228f9c1a7d4b4b59543519da.jpg

    Now for the biggest challenge, assembling the fuse halves taking account of the fact the intake trunking needs moving forward to meet the nose ring, this then throws the nose wheel bay out of alignment (tho with doors closed this could be an advantage). The cockpit then will have to move rearwards slightly. I need to take account of the additional bulkhead for the acrylic rods to rest against which makes the fuse fit a little more complicated.

    NB The attitude of the displayed model means you will be staring down the intake so it needs to be right, I'm not sure how I'm going to get the intake to ring to intakes joint smooth and lovely......?

    That's it for now folks, thanks for your interest and comments which are always welcome.

    Best

    TonyS

  15. I use Tamiya fine grey primer and Halfords plastic primer for acrylics. Both are good but the Tamiya is excellent.........but expensive. I use white Halfords for areas to be painted white.

    I have tried spraying all of the sprues straight out of the box before I start the kit and this has been an effective technique, but a bit overkill on a kit with lots of sprues. It also means that it causes problems gluing painted parts together.

    I'm trying to find a brush primer for smaller areas, eg cockpits, ejection seats etc. I have tried Humbrol acrylic primer and TBH it's useless. It seems to have a grainy texture and even after having dried for twenty four hours when I brush on Tamiya acrylics it just lifts straight off!

    Any suggestions?

    TonyS

  16. Masks, pitot, PE, and decals! You're not messing about!

    I'm really looking forward to my 1/72 build of this one in Saudi markings but I've got so much in the queue in front of it! :bounce:

    Hi!

    Masks, I thought I'd treat myself for the first time....... painting canopies is not one of my strong points and in this case they are not expensive.

    Pitot, for a display model it's much more in scale and hopefully less likely to be snapped (tho dissapointingly it's not complete and relies on drilling and fixing to the kit pitot bracket, Ho-hum

    PE yes. I've used Eduard ZOOM seat PE several times and always liked the result. I decided to go with this and the kit seat rather than a resin option......they never seem to fit! I think it's because they are accurate to scale to the original seat but plastic kit cockpit interiors are smaller because of the non scale thickness of the fuselage walls, bulkheads etc. etc. hence whist the exterior may (or may not) be to scale the interior is not.

    Decals. I'm going for a non kit option aircraft.

    Thanks for your interest.

    More soon.

    TonyS

  17. So I have been giving some thought to the method of displaying on a stand. I'm going to use two lengths of round 15mm acrylic rod (the afterburner cans are just over 15mm ID). The acrylic will pass through the cans up the jet pipes and through holes drilled in the engine face closing plate. But how to hold them there?

    8e73898b7bfad9fefce40fef37f2dc3c.jpg

    I decided to add a bulkhead using the internal moulding of the speed brakes as a stop and cut a cardboard template. From that I made a plasticard bulkhead and sanded to fit. Some more plasticard strips locate the bullhead.

    a3d21dc14849da3f0007ab01d075540e.jpg

    The model will be displayed at an approx 30 degree climb angle (I've picked this as I think it's dramatic but also shows the kit off to it's best) and as long as the rods are parallel it can be slid on and off the base easily.

    I'll cover the rear face of the new bullhead with sponge so that there is a degree of cushioning in the mount.

    I've also made a start on the seat so more of that next time.

    Postman's just been with some goodies from Hannants....

    2843557562b03701d329bb6ad5f1fc4b.jpg

    Now onto the seat in earnest

    TonyS

    • Like 5
  18. Looking forward to seeing this come together! I got a 1/35 Trumpeter Mi-4 for about half of what it usually goes for (I think it was probably a mistake, but oh well!) so it'll be nice to see generally what sort of issues crop up with these large scale Trumpeter kits.

    This thread goes into some detail about devising mounts for a clear acrylic tube through the jet exhaust as a mount. I'm sure you could PM the OP directly as well. That was only a 1/72 build, but it should scale up.

    Thanks for that, I was thinking of acrylic rod, that's a great tip on bending it into shape.

    Hope you enjoy my WIP.

    TonyS

    • Like 1
  19. Hi All

    My first WIP, I'm a little nervous! I have been asked to build this kit by a friend as a present. He has supplied the kit (tho I also have one waiting in my stash). This is a £90.00 kit and since I'm building it for someone else as a present for their friend I'm doubly nervous!

    9249c1f20fbf44dd6abf2d46a5d6d16e.jpg

    My experience of Trumpeter to date hasn't been great. I've abandoned a 1/48 Skywarrior due to excessively bent and warped fuselage halves (I'm awaiting replacements from the UK importer) and a rather difficult 1/48 Vigilante build (which is on here in Ready for Inspection, tho I loved the end result).

    I've done some net research and would especially like to thank AAbshier for his most informative 2009 build here on Britmodeller. It seems this kit has some issues too.....

    The kit is to be displayed clean on a stand, wheels up, airbrakes closed, probably in a suitably dynamic attitude (near vertical climb?), I'm thinking perhaps some form of curved plastic rod from a base to the jet tubes. I've had a post on Cold War asking for advice as to how to do this for a couple of days, but so far no response.

    I've opened the box and the first thing to say is, this is a BIG kit!

    b96d34cd1cbb46bb013626fd2712aa90.jpg

    I'm hoping to start at the weekend.

    I've ordered a couple of aftermarket items which should be here in a couple of days and I'll detail them when they arrive.

    I think that's it for my first post.....

    .......wish me luck?

    TonyS

    • Like 4
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