Jump to content

Bravo52

Members
  • Posts

    97
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Bravo52

  1. Will be following....that work looks excellent!
  2. I wouldn't go as far as to say the the HB fuselage cross-section is better...I does look as though the forward section is wrong (lower taper too straight). So it may very well come down to which is less wrong! I'd say the edge may go to HB for the "one-piece" fuselage sides. I have the KH kit and the fuselage detail is fine, however, it will take considerably more time to assemble. Once I get a copy of the HB kit, a side-by-side comparison will be in order. Either way, it won't stop me from picking one up.
  3. Oh Nice! Rubber tires. From the pictures of the sprues, it looks like the HB kit will be a quicker build. Not quite the detail of the KH kit but you can clearly see the intake splitter and the way HB tackled that part. To me, the biggest issue with the KH kit is the absence of the splitter on the shock cone.
  4. Those are valid questions you have to ask yourself from a larger perspective of why you build kits. I say if you enjoy correcting a perceived problem in your models, then it is important for you to do that for your long-term enjoyment of the hobby. If it is to have a nice representation of the aircraft on the shelf, then by all means, value that. From my perspective, I prefer the latter. That said, another often overlooked question is do you have the skill to make a kit look correct/good. I've seen models with were "accurized" but it looked like they built it with a butter knife and painted it with a whisk-broom. To me, all of the effort to make an accurate model was lost because all I could see was the big thumb print on the glass. I'd like to think I'd never say that to a modeler, just congratulate them for finishing another model and move on... So is it that we expect too much from the companies or too little from our skill?
  5. I looked at some 3-views and there is a considerable change in shape in that section of the fusalage. Laurent is correct in saying that is transitions from "circular top, elliptical bottom" and that is reflected in the plans. That said, those 3-views could be flawed and it was specifically for the Cy-17yM-3. However, the shape was similar to other Su-17s I was able to find on the internet. Of course if it's on the internet, it must be correct... (snicker) ... https://aerofred.com/details.php?image_id=89428
  6. Yes, I’m happy with that kit at $130. I think in part because I actually have one and touched the nose and don’t have a problem with the shape. Of course I’m only basing this on my opinion and not the opinion of others. That said, I suspect in a couple of years you’ll be able to find this kit a swap-meet for $50-80 dollars and you will then enjoy building it or just reveling in how wrong the nose is, either way, in the end, it’s ok that you don’t share the same opinion. It's a nice kit.
  7. The retail in the US is $99 dollars. Probably will find it for a little cheaper on the shelves. I paid $130 for the HB Su-34 and am really happy with that kit that retailed for $166. Like most of the manufacturers, KH is hit-or-miss when it comes to buildability (I don't care about rivet counting) so to me it will be nice to have a modern kit of this jet.
  8. I'm hearing the first price state-side is somewhere in the $160 USD range. Not sure how close that will be once the kits actually get here but if that is retail, I'd expect to pay somewhere around $145 for it. Like Mungo1974 said, I'm still going to pick one up....
  9. Well, yes...yes you were... the subsequent pictures Trumpeter posted where more revealing...still funny though how everyone jumped the gun on the nose...
  10. That is exactly why... The Hs still give off a fair amount of exhaust but the Gs with water injection made it look like a flight of F-4s were taking off! Needless to say, I'll be picking up a couple to build.
  11. So at Flankerman's request...here are a couple of photos of my cockpit. I mixed the colors from Tamiya acrylics and think it's a little too blue. The good news is when you put the canopy over the tub, it kind of darkens it a bit. These are the parts from the box. I'm always a little weary about using decals on the kit parts but this is really a "tune up" build for a 1/32 Su-27 (or is it "SU-27" ). I used a couple of left over parts from the photoetch as the trigger-rings (ejection handles) as the kit doesn't come with them. They are part number PE6 and aren't used in the 33-UB. I had to file a small spike off the top but it looks convincing. I sprayed the Akan Cockpit blue and it seemed really dark. When I mix more for the Su-27, I'll make it a bit more green.
  12. I think the kit radome is a bit too long. More like the shape is a bit off in the rear. This also makes the space between the front windscreen and the radome look a bit off as well...that said, the kit canopy fits really well so I'm not going to monkey with it.... I'll post some pics soon... oh, btw, I used the extra photoetch antennas for ejection handles...seemed to fit about right!
  13. I'm at about the same spot on my build of the SU-33UB. I was surprised at the detail on the kit. The intakes fit like a glove although I did leave off the engine face since you can't see it. I highly recommend this kit!
  14. A bit of advice...add a little more weight in the nose! I put some in the flir ball and it was enough to keep the beast sitting firmly on the skids. Also, when you get to the painting stage, paint the pylons before you attach them to the fuselage. You won't be able to easily mask the anti-skid black if you attach them first. Finally, think about how you plan to paint the rotors before you glue them up...it's a little harder to paint the hubs after they are assembled. Just some thoughts....
  15. I am very fortunate to have a model club that host monthly contest for its members and anyone else that wants to enter a model. On a typical month, we have about 30 models on the table that range from Basic modelers who build Snap-Tites to Master Modelers who have won at the national level. Usually four or five times a year, one of the club members will “Sponsor” a special contest where they pick the subject and supply the awards. In this case, the contest was “Any Hawker Aircraft.” I found this model on the “blow-out” shelf at the local hobby shop and since I love FAA aircraft… I couldn’t resist! Of course I waited until a few days before the contest to get serious about the build… The kit is a Hasegawa offering of the Sea Hurricane Mk.IIC “Royal Navy”. It’s Hasegawa’s basic 1/48 Hurricane with a couple of extra resin parts to convert it to the Sea Hurricane. A basic plug aft of the wing that holds the arresting hook and a new gun sight and launch cable hooks. Most notable on the conversion is the lower plug does not go all the way to the transition point between the fabric cover and the lower metal wing. This causes an extra seam on the bottom. If I had a few more days, I might have been able to blend it a little better, but…. Overall it was a quick build but I want to redo the canopy because I’m not real happy with the framing. In the end, it was a fun build. This is the basic profile of the model... One area that is troublesome on this kit is the landing gear axel pins are a bit weak causing the wheels to sit a little funny. Maybe a pin or bushing to make the wheels fit tighter would help. This was the first time I used "Flory Wash" and didn't quite get a good balance between the wash, the smuges and shading on the white... Overall, I think it does a good job representing the aircraft... and my inability to take pictures of my models!
  16. Looking forward to your build...I'll be watching all the way. I am having fits with the AH-1Z Viper right now and this is on my list to build.
  17. David, I'm enjoying the build. Did the Hornet and Sea Hornet have the same seat?
  18. Wow...I like your work on this model! It is nice to see the way the photos are translated into the model space and how you choose what to represent and how. It makes the model look very convincing?
  19. Yes, the front cowling area is very finicky... I had a heck of a time with mine and ended up doing a lot of grinding to get it to fit. It has to do with the alignment of the engine/cockpit pod. If it is twisted the slightest, and there is enough slop in the parts, it won't sit right... I eventually left the motor screw loose and glued the front together and then tightened up on the screw...but that was all my fault. A friend built his with the minimum motor parts to make it work and glued the cowlings on and they fit like a glove. Great job so far and I'm liking forward to the finish. Mine is about 98% done and I'll be posting the completed model soon.
  20. Woowzers! She's looking very nice! This is such a fine aircraft and you are doing a great job.
  21. Mark, are you at all worried about the difference in surface detail when using the Eduard brass? Seems to me the detail on the brass might be too strong compared to the rest of the surface. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished aircraft and how it turns out. Your work is exceptional and I'm enjoying the progress!
×
×
  • Create New...