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Hoops

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Everything posted by Hoops

  1. Thanks for the feedback Dave, I'll take a look at what's available now! Cheers, Hoops
  2. If you want to do one of the maritime scheme F-4EJs, they all had the blocks of grey around the stencils. There are some RF-EJ Kais out there with a two blue scheme that I cannot speak too, but all the Maritime F-4s from Misawa had the masked off stencils. Also note, there are a lot of individual panel lines that are masked off and remain gray as well. Mostly where there are any hinges or movement. Check your references! Hoops
  3. Here's a question for the pros, which one of the two boxings, the 204C Cargo, or the 214-100 Passenger woudl be more appropriate to use as the basis for the ELINT 214R? I've seen a few pictures of them, and I think it would make an interesting project, and would be a fun conversion. Cheers! Hoops
  4. They keep releasing it with new markings fairly frequently, the most recent baseline version being 2016 with the German Navy Centennial markings. The plastic is the same in all of them, but some get some resin extras to represent specialized versions. Personally I feel that the Revell Reboxing is the best option to get the kit, as it had a very extensive decal sheet that captures all of the stencils on a modern gull grey painted P-3. The hasegawa Decal sheets are a bit lacking in that regard, no matter the version. Caveat, I have not held one of these kits in my hands, but looking at the pictures I've found online, I think that this is probably the most detailed and accurate kit of the P-3 in any scale. You would have to strip and repaint, and there is a "bit" of construction so not 100% prebuilt. I think the trickiest part would be finding decals for the kit if you did want to re-do it. One of the keys that the Tomytec kit has is the extended flaps. You will very rarely see a parked P-3 that does not have the flaps positioned to approach (necessary for ground emergency egress).
  5. I'm very much looking forward to this kit. I like the looks two seat Su-27 better than the single seaters, and I'm glad to see a better treatment than the mediocre Trumpeter kits. Cheers! Hoops
  6. Hi Sven, Do you have any idea what the four white marks were just below the windscreen are? Asking for a friend... I've got my computer up and running again. The early tails that were used in the beginning of the testing did have a 20.5" extension on the top. Later in testing other tails were retrofitted that incorporated a 8.5" extension. If I understand correctly if the aircraft were to have gone into production, it would have used a 12" extension on the tails. There are lots of unique details on this aircraft, being based on a modified developmental YA-10A, as well as all the N/AW changes. It would be challenging to get them all in there, you need a keen eye to catch all the little differences. Cheers, Hoops
  7. The Twobobs sheet is the only aftermarket option in 1/72 for High Vis VFA-2 aircraft. The advantage of the sheet is that the white is actually white. The disadvantage is the unnescessary two part decals, and the print quality is actually worse (less detail) than the kit decals. Cheers, Hoops
  8. I don't have my notes in front of me right now, but I believe the the first tails had a 20 inch extension. Later in the testing the tails were shortened, and the extension was only 12 inches. Still taller than the standard production A-10 tails, but not as giangantic as the originals.
  9. I think 752 looked a whole lot better in the CAS/BAI scheme, but it is very interesting to see some good up close images of the J79 installation. Cheers and thanks for the great photos Sven!
  10. The Independence 1995 boxing is out per HLJ, I just got billed for it in my private warehouse with them. Based on the sprue layout, I hope that we will be seeing a F-14B Boxing in the future. I would only be the logical next step. Cheers! Hoops
  11. Revell is probably still the best Tornado kit in 1/72, and the GR.1 would be the best place to start for a GR.4 conversion. If you can find the Frieghtdog resin set, you will just need to make the updates to the cockpit yourself and you should be well on your way. Cheers, Hoops
  12. Even those seem to be sold out at most of the normal resellers, and prices are getting higher on ebay. Probably still a good bet, but it's getting more expensive to find a CFM powered -135 solution.
  13. Bobe's Hobby House (actually physically located in Pensacola FL USA) sells rolls of 100' of the EZline on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/sch/Models-Kits-/1188/m.html?item=200405607941&hash=item2ea91ae605&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&_ssn=bobemt It's actually a decent brick and mortar shop, and buying from them off ebay was painless. Cheers, -Hoops
  14. Externally at least, they have the same antenna fit as the current baseline RIVET JOINTs. I'm sure that there are lots of differences internally, but after lots of work looking at current US RIVET JOINTS and other RCs I think you can come up with everything you need as far as references go. Getting from the plastic in the box to representing any of the above is a lot trickier. I've got a KC-135R that I want to turn into a RC-135U COMBAT SENT, and I have the RC-135V kit, that I want to bring up to current standards, but the engines are being a sticking point. If I can't solve that problem, I'm halfway considering doing the NC-135W (12666) as it still has the old TF-33 engines instead. It has all the modern antennas and a weird mix of external protuberances from various versions of the RCs. Cheers, Hoops
  15. I'm resurrecting an older thread here, but I finally picked up a RC-135V kit, and started taking a close look at it with the view to update it to current standards. I realized that the Hog nose as kitted is too flat on the top. There is much more of a curve on the top side of the real nose than as kitted. You can really see it where the nose joins the rest of the fuselage below the canopy, on the kitted nose it is almost completely flat and goes straight into the bottom of the canopy. The real nose as you can see here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/62382288@N04/5678346507 the nose curves down much more on the sides, resulting in the "bulges" below the windscreen where it meets the hog nose. Its hard to explain without having a picture of the kit nose. I've been sanding mine back and trying to reshape the top, but capturing the transition from the canopy is proving tricky to capture accurately. Cheers, Hoops
  16. Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but there is nothing out there for these schemes in scale. The only option at this time would be to get something custom printed. Cheers, Hoops
  17. Nobody has any conversions for the AIP/CUP/UIP other other derivitive Lockheed produced updates. Nor the INMARSAT antennas that have most recently popped up or anything else for that matter. Some later boxings of the Hasegawa of JMSDF birds do have some resin for some Chaff/Flare buckets and satellite antennas. They may or may not be accurate for other updates, It won't get you all the way no matter what. the specifics of the antenna and other fit being different from nation to nation and update version. If you want a Gloss Gull Grey P-3 (with english language stencils) the Revell reboxing is still the best place to start. You're still going to have to scratch build all the details anyway. EP-3Es present their own set of problems as well. Hoops
  18. If you want to build a current Gloss Gull Grey P-3, I would recommend the Revell reboxing of the kit, as the decals sheet and stencils are much more extensive than in any of the Hasegawa boxings. Modern P-3s have a lot of stencils, and that the easiest way to get them. Cheers, Hoops
  19. Two reasons (in North America at least): Price and availability. The Fujimi kits, mostly due to the lack of a North American importer/distributor are very rare, and traditionally been quite expensive. As Neu has pointed out, the prices are coming down, but that seems to only be recently. Academy is relatively available, but run $10-15 more than the Hasegawa kit depending on the boxing. The Hasegawa kits, by virtue of having been around for much longer, are also much more prolific.
  20. The big shape criticism on the Fujimi kit is the spine being too large. It is also very expensive, probably making it the least desirable of the three options. I've had the Fujimi kit and sold it, having never built it. I've built a number of Hasegawa, and have a number of Academy in the stash, but not actually built any yet. Here is a comparison build of all three, does a very good job of covering the kits: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=156380&st=0 I'll add a few of my personal thoughts not covered elsewhere to the subject. First choice for the best kit, Academy, however there are some things that I personally don't like as much about it: 1. somewhat pebbly surface texture 2. wrong geometry for the main landing gear legs 3. panel lines on the lower forward fuselage over-pronounce the hinges. If you have aftermarket decals, I'd get the F-18A boxing, because it includes all the plastic for the "C" as well, just put the "A" parts in the spares box to kitbash with a Hasegawa kit. I did that opposite with this build: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=227238 photos of the finished build posted here: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=220331&view=findpost&p=2190973 Hasegawa comes in second place, is readily available, and can be found for cheap. it does has some advantages over Academy, but some significant disadvantages as well. Disadvantages: 1. External fuel tanks too short 2. Nose tip too blunt 3. Non existant cockpit detail, well lacking detail across the whole model 4. I don't like the vertical stabs very much, soft on detail, not very good fit. Advantages: 1. Correct main landing gear geometry even if the detail very simplified 2. Smooth surface texture I hope this helps, Hoops
  21. Dr. Pepper Resins: www.drpepperresins.com (also located in Singapore) does a rear instrument panel that includes the HUD repeater.
  22. A very important question, which will guide accurate answers. Is the F-16 you want to build from the Peace Carvin II/III purchases (no conformal fuel tanks) of from the Peace Carvin IV purchase (Conformal fuel tanks, plus a lot of other differences)? Hoops
  23. Revell AG has a new tool Gripen in 1/72 that is scheduled for release this fall. Based on the quality of their other recent releases in 1/72, it may be worth your time to wait for that release rather than go with the kits that are already out there. Cheers, Hoops
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