P.o Prune

I'm considering buying the Tempests Mk.V for my friends birthday. But I'm in doubt which on is the best? Eduard, no doubt, but series #1 or #2? What is the difference between the two?

Thanks for info. Do you know if any of the two are available in scale 1:32 or 1:35?

Any chance that this is the same model that was used during the Battle of Britain? If it is. I've been looking for it forever!!

Beautiful.. Thanks a million.

Looking for pictures of the Spitfire Mk.IIa battery / accumulator installation, and possibly measurements of the battery / accumulator.

Working on airplanes for the better part of 40 years I noticed that the flap wells were always soaked in, in a mix of dirt and small hydraulic leaks etc. Does anybody know what the Spitfire flap wells looked like? Since they were pneumatic operated I can't imagine they were all that dirty and then again, taking off and landing from grass fields must have had some effect.

Hi... I'm not sure if this belongs here or in the figure thread. So feel free to move it if necessary. I'm looking for the Humbrol colours to the pilot of my 1:32 Spit. Boots and face I already have but I would like to get as close as possible to the trousers, the Irvin jacket, the helmet and the oxygen mask. Any suggestions?

I'm planning on making a diorama and need the plans / drawings /measurements of the Crossley fire tender, used by the RAF in 1940 (Battle of Britain) If any one can supply me with a scan / copy I'd be very grateful. (I have to build it from scratch) Thanks in advance.

I know this topic will probably fit plane with machineguns installed in leading edge of the wings. So forgive me for just using the Spitfire as an example. When looking at the Spitfire (in this case) models, I have noticed that people often paint smoketrails from the muzzle going aft. Is that a real thing? Considering that the Spitfire was flying around 300 mph, I would imagine that the muzzleflames (smoketrails) would be all over the place and not neatly going back over the wing. Any thoughts?

Thanks. 👍 Then it's going to be the TR.9D

Thanks... I'm building a Spitfire Mk.II (Battle of Britain)

No wonder I couldn't find a picture. Thanks a million... Now I just need to find out which was the most used one.

Hi... I'm back... Been away for far too long... :-( I understand that the Spitfire Mk.II was equipped with either a T.R 9D, or a T.R. 113 Wireless. Does anyone know which one was the most common, and although I have managed to get my little greedy hands on a beautiful picture of the T.R. 9D, I would be eternally grateful if any of you guys out there could supply me with a picture of the T.R. 113 Thanks in advance.

I guess this is as good a place as any to ask this. I'm looking for the cad drawings/plans for the 303 Browning machinegun (Spitfire mount) I have tried to google it, but so far have had no luck. Does anyone know where I can get/buy them? Thanks in advance.

There's a discussion in another forum whether it was possible for the pilot to fire cannons and guns simultanously, or did he have to make a choice which to fire? When I look at old photos of the firing button the button is worn on the top or the bottom suggesting that the pilot had to choose. If he could fire all at once, how was the mechanism set up?

This may not be the right place to post this question, so feel free to move it to where ever it's appropriate. I have just stumbled over somthing that puzzled me. While looking at photographs of the B-24D's During operation "Tidal Wave" (the low level attack against Romanian oil fields in Ploesti ) I noticed that although the B-24 were using the USAAF insignia on wings and fuselage, the insignia on the vertical stabilizers were British (red white and blue) Can anyone help with an explanation? It's the only place I've noticed this, so I'm a bit curious. Thanks in advance.

Fozzy, people like us never get old 🙂

WIll do that... Thanks, good idea...

Trust me, I was very tempted to do just that. But in the end I figured that I would get a more precise frame by repairing the broken one. That being said, I intend to go buy some balsa just in case...

Just to make matters worse the top of the frame broke too... This hasn't been my lukiest of days Using araldite (is that what you call it too?) I glued the two parts together and clamped them. Then I installed the frame in the support and clamped them down too while the frame dried. All well and dry, and it looks, and more importently, feels quite solid. And then I got struck by a flash of genious... I was going to strengthen the frame to make sure no further disaster was going to surprise me. At work we have stirring pins (too cheap to buy teaspoons) so I "organized" a few of them. Efter careful studying I selected on and soaked it for a day or so. I then gently bent it into shape and "tied" it up before letting it dry: Yes, I know... it doesn't quite fit, but don't worry. Hoping that I wouldn't damage the balsa I soaked the stirring pin again and then very, very gently formed it into the fram and clamped it down leaving it to dry. Looks pretty good to me. Next step is to glue it into place which should eliminate the space between the frame and the top of the stirring pin. All glued and set to dry. I'll leave it like that for at least 24 hours. (I did correct the stirirng pin a little, managing to make it more in alignment with the frame.)

@Fozzy: I have thought about buying some balsa and make a brand new frame. But I'm worried that the cut-outs for the longerons won't match the other frames. I've tried doing something else.. Will post a new update soon. @Army_Air_Force: I did use a round sanding drum to shape the inside of the frame (former) As for the cut-out I used a scalpel, maybe I should have used the mini drill.

You have no idea how right you are... ;-) Turned out that the toothpick and my patience wasn't enough. The bloddy thing broke... So it was back to the drawingboard, or rather the workbench. It was quite a breathtaking job to drill out the broken toothpick. I was afraid that the drille would "slide" and go out through the side. Using something a little more sturdy (like a 1 m/m nail I was pretty confident that things would hold. I swear that this frame #5 has given my quite a large number of new grey hairs. It was like evrytime I touched it something broke off: They did say in the manual that to handle the frames with care but this was getting redicilous. Well, while I still was reasonable sane I decided to glue the extension back on with the reinforcement. After a reasonable drying period I continued to repair the other damage.

Frame #5 from the previous picture getting the extension. A toothpick, a 1 m/m drill and a lot of patience. And finally a touch of glue.

Frame #9 glued in place and supported: (Don't worry, I'm not posting a picture of every frame I attach ) But it shows the process pretty well. Frames #10 & #9 glued and the rest dry fitted. Frame #6 (the most forward frame in the picture gave me a slight headache. The top vertical "beam" is supposed to be the support for the cockpit floor of the R/c model and I had my doubts whether to cut it off or not. Not quite knowing what the effect it would have on the build. Well, I ended up modifying frame #6 like I had the others and when I dry fitted the cockpit floor it didn't make much difference. Frame #3 is the bottom part of the instrument panel. I haven't quite figured out yet how to get this to work with the upper half since, on the plans, the cockpit floor is supposed to be attached between the two. Like this: So the end result is going to be something like this: All the crossed-out areas has to go. I'll have to attach a support on frame #5. Frame #4 will, for the time being, be left as support for the longerons.

Stephen, Thanks a million for the pictures and your great suggestions. I will most certainly take them all into consideration as the build progresses. As for the finish of the balsa I originally had planned on copying Fozzy's B-17G, meaning covering with alu tape which I can get from work. But your idea sounds interesting because you have explained how I can make the various types of rivets. Once again, thanks for the input and please feel free to keep them coming.