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mirageiv last won the day on January 18 2019

mirageiv had the most liked content!

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About mirageiv

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  1. Are there any concrete hints to further F-4 variants as of yet? I ask because we are still waiting more than a decade for the F-16A/B/D which surely would also have solid sales figures, still don't understand that one.
  2. Ok I had a bash this morning. I found the Tamiya polish compounds 'rounded off' the orange peel opposed to truly removing it and flattening things out. So I went with 12000 micromesh first lightly, then polished it up with the fine/finish compounds. I did spray a slightly heavier tint than I wanted originally as I knew some material would be removed so the reduction in tint wasn't too bad. It isn't totally 100% removed however and I think if I keep polishing I'll take too much tint off, so for me I might call it as close enough. Even if I tried instead with acrylic
  3. Not 100% but it looks like it in person. Before I sprayed the tint I polished up the canopy a heck of a lot with the Tamiya compounds and got it super clear with no distortions etc...I have heard what you mention with the lacquers and clear parts but then I've seen some builds online doing the same thing and working ok. I have in the past also sprayed a clear part with lacquer tints and got no orange peel, but this was just luck I think in humid/temp and thinning conditions, the exception and not the rule for sure. The levelling thinner doesn't seem in my experience to damage the clear part ot
  4. Hi guys I have a few questions about removing orange peel from a lacquer paint over a clear part, maybe the car guys out there can lend a hand with their finishing methods. I'm building an F-16 that needs an exterior tint to the canopy (gold tint will be on the interior), I used Tamiya lacquer clears instead of the usual clear acrylics as I knew I would need to do some polishing. Thinned with levelling thinner and then spraying a final pure levelling thinner coat helped get something really smooth as a basis. However, there is a real fine o
  5. Fantastic build Jon, I love the crisp finish with subtle weathering and the colour selection is just spot on. I'm pondering about getting the Kinetic kit also for the decals to do one of the blue F-16As, the Fightertown and Two Bobs sheets seem impossible to find! David
  6. I've been told F3's have chased down F-111s and B-1Bs low level over Alaska with missiles (IIRC 2 Skyflash, 2 Aim-9).....they got the kill, needed fuel pretty quick after however. The F3 was very slippery low level from what I know. High speed at low level is a nice defence, a Tornado IDS isn't gonna mix it with a Su-27 or MIg-29...best to just run in different directions. The B-1 can shift on the deck for a very long time IIRC, they can run anything out of fuel trying to chase if they can't catch quick enough to get a shot.
  7. Same. I find pure levelling thinner with Aqueous satin/gloss paints doesn't dry properly even after a week or so. It seems dry to the touch quick but it softens and fingerprints/marks if you tape or hold onto it for a bit even ages after spraying. Instead I mix normal Mr Color thinner with the levelling and it mostly sorts this problem. Learn't the hard way too!
  8. Thank you Serge for the post. I am no Mirage expert whatsoever and initially I did not suspect anything wrong with the wing sweep, but began to suspect something due the the overly extended appearance of the air intake. I still cannot be 100% certain but it is in my opinion only that the wing sweep angle was not quite enough for the first edition, I show my case towards the end of post 25 of my Britmodeller WIP thread here . The drawings used come from reputedly accurate drawings, I don't believe drawings are gospel truth at all but I assume the wing angle to be corre
  9. Yep I did think it was odd with a live weapon! Thanks for the pic, that is the definitive answer there. Cheers guys, David
  10. Fantastic work Anirudh, beautiful finish to the paintwork! Replicating those canopies is very difficult. I prefer the darker tinted one from your options but any combo is right as it can look like any option depending on the light, nothing is wrong here imho and it is down to personal preference. Does the metallic gold reflect under direct light? I've experimented with Alclads (very fine pigment) mixed into clears with this and it works ok but sometimes you still see the tiny metal flakes even when using very small amounts, still not 'the answer'. Also I found in order to reduce the cloudiness
  11. Andy stop injecting these complex construction techniques in this thread, at this rate if this kit can't do Mach 2 and shoot something down I'll be wee weed.
  12. Cheers guys, glad you are enjoying the thread. I agree, I think that will be the best method, matt/satin clear + very thin grey to tint. Cheers Werner, yep they are getting the full complement of the most up to date kit. I'd like to load some Meteor missiles so I might hold off on the weapons load until I get them, or maybe even add Scalp + Meteor later on, not sure yet. I do like the look of simple load on the Rafale. On the canopy, I ended up redoing it as the future/klear I dipped it in refused to dry and just left fingerprints even
  13. Thank you Markus, because I will not weather the jet much at all, maybe the finer surface details will help balance out the realism...IDK, we will see. Yep anti-skid, the Syhart decals come with some nice masks to replicate these pretty easily fortunately, I wouldn't have looked forward to making those! I found a Getty image of this exact area of the Qatari Rafale, the actual colours and sheen (matt or satin?) are a little confusing though when comparing the left and right sides, Getty image here. I'm not sure if the anti-skid material is actually a clear
  14. Thanks for the comments guys! Arnaud, thank you and nice work on the intakes, they will be too late for this build but I'd like to do Rafale B in the future, I'll send a PM. David
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