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mirageiv last won the day on January 18

mirageiv had the most liked content!

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About mirageiv

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  1. Hi guys. After getting the Modelsvit Mirage IIIE a few months ago I've decided to build it as a Swiss Mirage IIIS. For me this is the most interesting derivative of the Mirage III series and a very capable fighter when introduced with the combo of the Hughes Taran 18 radar and Aim-26B missile. What a job it must have been flying one of these beauties through the Swiss Alps! For some context a nice video can be found here if you have a few minutes to spare (the footage is great regardless if you speak French): https://notrehistoire.ch/entries/kOPYgj3dWyz We have the dedicated Kinetic kit in 1/48 scale, however after doing the sums on how much the build would cost me knowing I'd throw a lot of aftermarket at it, I decided I'd prefer to do my ultimate IIIS in 1/32 using the Revell/Italeri kit as basis as the work and expenditure would be similar (I already have numerous AM for it already anyways). That long term 1/32 build is for another day however when I have a new modelling area all set up. Until then I've decided to make a 1/72 version for now and I'll apply what I've learnt here to that build, particularly the NMF which I think will be done by Alclad (not sure yet). PJ productions has recently released a 1/72 Mirage IIIS/RS kit aimed at the later updated variants. A while ago I made a Mirage IIIRS using the original PJ conversion kit on the old Heller kit, to which I had the IIIS resin nose left over with the aim of doing something like this one day. There are various modifications that need to be done to produce an early IIIS from the IIIE, however not nearly as many as the upgraded later versions to which I think the new PJ kit would be the way to go in this scale. I have chosen the Modelsvit kit as the details are unbelievable in the scale, I think the most detailed kit I've had in my hands in 1/72, it's like a very good 1/48 or 1/32 kit hit with a shrink ray in many places. Also I quite like the much disputed rivet detail on the model, maybe under a camo scheme I agree it would look too much in 1/72, but for a NMF it could look very nice, well we will find out. I've got quite a bit of AM for this build too, Matterhorn Circle decals, Reskit Mirage IIIE exhaust (please ignore the paint mark on the box, that was me!), Barracuda Mk.4 seat, Reskit wheels, Master pitot, Maestro Aim-26B or HM-55 in Swiss service and the PJ resin IIIS nose. I know quite a bit but I thought what the heck, my build rate is so slow I just threw everything at it tbh wanting to build the best one I could. The rest of the IIIS conversion work will be scratch built. I would like to make an early example soon after delivery in the mid 60's in a QRA set up with pairs of live Aim-9Bs and Aim-26Bs and supersonic tanks. Maybe 'Geronimo' if I can find when the artwork was applied and is applicable in this period, does anybody know? First up was to remove the Doppler radar under the nose area, AFAIK the Taran radar could ground map also allowing all weather navigation. Modelsvit made this integral and hollow to the front fuselage pieces so after some careful cutting I then glued in some thick plasticard to then shape to the surface contours of the nose area, this is yet to be refined until I glue the halves together to get a nice symmetrical shape. The nose gear bay and door (not pictured) is being extended to take the longer modified IIIS nose leg/fork. I'm using dimensions taken from a real IIIS using an article I found online ages ago that doesn't seem to be around on the 'www' anymore, saves to plan ahead and save interesting articles via pdf for future use! After finding some good images of the underside of an early IIIS I began removing various antennae not present (still some to do) and opening up all the air scoops and drilling the cannon ports, More antennae removed from the fin. I've cut the rudder out in order to build the actuator linkage and displace it although it seems at rest it does look to usually be in the neutral position. Clear light also drilled/installed and blended in, bloody small job in this scale! The exhaust area will have to be thinned quite a bit to get the Reskit exhaust nozzle in which is no bad thing as it is quite thick and overscale imho here. After gluing the rear fuselage halves together I then attached the wings to get the best join I could before attaching the lower piece against the instructions. A black wash shows the join, not bad compared to what I have seen online on many other Mirage builds, this will be filled with Zap a Gap I think. Modelsvit seems to have made a lot of the joining parts not on panel lines which I think is quite a smart way to do it (except the front canopy unfortunately), for me it is easier to fill and eliminate a join opposed to doing the same then rescribing back the panel line on it as most manufactures do. I found I needed some plastic shims on the other side of the vertical fin join. Hopefully the pic also gives an idea of how fine the rivet detail is. Fuselage progress so far. I cut and installed clear lights on the wing tips that will be sprayed with Tamiya green/red clears when painting comes around. If it wasn't for the IIIS modifications I'm doing I think this would be a very quick model to assemble. Next up will be sorting out the gear bays and cockpit area which will need a new specific Swiss IIIS IP, quite different from the IIIE variant. Thanks for looking, David
  2. Thanks for the too kind words chaps, glad you like it so far! I've pretty much finished most of the other parts now, just a few antennae, anti-collision lights and that pesky canopy defogging interior tube to sort out Below includes: Aires exhaust, Daco Chaff/Flare units, Daco ladder, Daco nose wheel, scratch 'heated air' German intake covers, Brassin centre pylon (to my surprise I found it in the spares!), True details seat+RBF ribbons, some hydraulic lines added to the legs and gear doors and finally the tips of the fuel tanks with some paint flaking. I'll glue it all together and get some photos for a RFI soon, thanks for looking. David
  3. Outstanding work Glynn, really one to be very proud of!
  4. Fantastic result Werner, you did the beast justice!
  5. Hi guys Well it took most of the week to apply the decals (there were several hundred.) I also gave the model an oil panel wash and now it needs some more oil streaking/staining etc..then I can apply the final satin varnish. The '33' of the '24+33' code on the port side fuselage is slightly offset because of the camera window. Also the decals on the dayglo parts of the fuel tanks were really very stark and needed to be blended in with some more layers of yellow and dayglo, the stencils here look really quite faded on the real aircraft but I will re apply the white ones as they are quite distinct. The 'Rescue' marking panel decal did not quite match up to the kit engraved line unfortunately but if I applied it to match this profile the whole decal would have been set at a strange angle. I faded the stencils in slightly on the top and bottom with very thinned layers of the base colour and then dirtied up the bottom silver with some very thinned greys sprayed in various areas. I still need to paint the gear bays yet. Overall it is looking like this atm, Still plenty to do, in fact I have not done so much on any other parts of the model than what is shown here so I'm pretty certain I won't make the deadline unfortunately! I'll keep updating the thread which should only be 1-2 last updates as I hope to finish it by this coming weekend as I'm pretty busy after that. Thanks so much for looking and the interest/comments shown in the build and to Rich and Col for running another great one, cheers everyone! I'll checkout the gallery later on, it will be a difficult choice I think in this GB! David
  6. Tamiya X22 + Levelling thinner applied to hopefully a good enough shine but without reducing the weathering too much, ready for a decal Marathon Sunday!
  7. Thank you Werner, yes I agree it does need be be darker and more weathering. After I place the decals I plan to weather these sort of areas with oils and thin grey airbrushed like I did here, Cheers Werner! I hope so too!
  8. Unbelievable work so far Alan, the painting of the bays in particular is as good as I've seen yet, really very impressive (well it all is!). I like the canopy a lot and I think I've seen the same canopy tinting vid btw. Slight diversion but maybe interesting, I've tried a few metallic paints here in the Tamiya clear mix, where I've found skimming off a small amount of the pure metallic particles from Alclad's Copper and/or Gold (depending on the tint colour) mixed in with clear yellow/smoke/orange mix etc..can give some really cool results as the metallic grain is very fine, give it a test if your interested in the F-16/F-22 type tint! Naturally there is always some slight grain because of the scale we are working in but it can look very good. Anyways a serious model in progress here! David
  9. Thank you Craig, glad you like it! I've used these decals so many times now I almost know where a lot should go by memory (hmm that is probs..no..definitely a bit worrying!) so hopefully it will speed things up here applying quite a few at a time. Cheers Rich! Yep they always do for me but I've tried to exaggerate the shading in the hope that the subsequent varnish layers renders it how I want it in the end. My pictures really aren't great tbh at conveying the colours and shading at all like I see it (taken in pretty poor natural light here in the UK today) as in the flesh it is more 'overdone' than what is shown here with different colours to my eye. I've also used Tamiya X-22 gloss + levelling thinner which in comparison to Aqua Gloss or Future etc.. in my experience affects shading and colour shifts the least, well I've put the gloss on now and most of it is still there which is pleasing. I can always do some more post shading later to further break it up if needed, but the big plus is it hasn't darkened much either which is a win compared to the previous effort! Case in point on the colours my camera shows are below, both in poor light but quite different and not at all what it looks like in person oddly enough (I guess you really can never trust photos as gospel for colour matching) Is it grey? Or blue? Rich stop being modest, I'm sure when you tackle your F-104 with the DACO set it will be another wonder model ! Kinetic are bringing out a new kit also which I'm sure could produce another level of F-104 when combined with some of the DACO details. In fact this could probably be my last Hasegawa F-104 model if the Kinetic kit is as good as I looks it could be. Oh yeah the '3D' decal haha, I used it to help gauge if the colours/contrasts looked ok with some sort of marking 'applied' (blu-tack), it helps me I find as I do struggle with colour matching tbh. Anyways thanks for the nice words guys, David
  10. Thanks chaps, I got lucky to save it! Rich that specific oven cleaner sounds a good shout too, although I hope we both don't have to use paint removers again! Yes Craig it was if I had given the model an oil wash! I'm attempting to build and paint the model like this exact jet in the linked photos: http://www.916-starfighter.de/Large/2433.htm and http://www.916-starfighter.de/Large/Album/a2433C.htm And this is about as close as I think I'll ever be able to do it personally to the heavily faded and patchy looking airframe, I used AK 'Real Color' for the top (mixed with a bit of blue as straight RAL 7012 was a bit too grey or me) and nose (RAL 7035), quite nice paints actually now I've thinned them correctly, pretty much indifferent to Tamiya acrylics imho. The underside was sprayed with my own mix (mainly Tamiya matt aluminium and Gunze light aircraft grey) and the tip tanks after a white-yellow base with Colorcoats RAL 2005 luminous orange (it was more accurate than AK's version to me but also AK real color just refused to cover to any opacity.) I also slightly faded them at the top with some yellow coming through for scale as straight solid RAL 2005 just looked too much compared to my prior paint job. The undersides are looking way too clean by comparison but I'll stick to the original plan of fading and weathering them after the decals go on, The colours are a little off in the photos tbh so don't take them as exact but I'm much happier with the paint job than the previous one in the flesh, worth the strip for sure. I'll give it a gloss layer this evening in prep for the decal marathon, the DACO decals are amazing but it is hard remaining sane applying them! Thanks for looking, hmm maybe I might just be able to squeeze it in before the GB ends. David
  11. Wonderful result so far James, the F-104 looks really good in this scheme! Btw have you seen Kinetic are releasing a new F-104 kit? Completely took me by surprise but maybe it will be time to retire these tired older Hasegawa tools now!
  12. I only use superglue , Mr. surfacer and milliput as fillers where the thinner will remove the surfacer if you put a good amount on and let it soak into the paint. It probably will remove other fillers a bit like Tamiya etc..but I'm not sure, it doesn't completely remove them but for a super smooth surface you might need to re apply. I guess stripping a model is never fuss free and requires some correction but it gets the paint off using them What paint and clear coat did you use to for your TA-4K? I found going through the barrier of Aqua gloss tougher than normal on this build as I usually use Tamiya clear or Future and those have easily come off. Yes I think the correct title is confusingly 'Mr Hobby, Mr Color thinners 250ml', the non retarding version of the levelling thinner. I've used levelling thinner too which gives you a little more time to remove the paint as it keeps it wetter for longer naturally. Meanwhile I've remasked and primed everything ready to start paint 2.0! David
  13. Thanks Terry, I used Mr.Color Lacquer thinners. It works very well for removing enamels and lacquer based acrylics like Tamiya, Mr.Hobby etc but importantly doesn't damage the plastic or clear parts. I apply a generous amount with a brush on selected areas, a wing for example, it soaks in, then reapply another layer and then the paint starts to wrinkle. With enamels after it begins to wrinkle you can then just 'pull off' the paint as a 'skin' with a brush, sort of like a layer of skin on top of cooled milk after it has been warmed. Any little bits still left are removed easily with a cotton bud soaked in the thinner and rubbed on the spot to take it off too, also this was done around the canopy frames to have control in preventing anything getting in and under the canopies. I did polish the canopies back up to get a proper shine but no crazing or clouding happens with the thinner. Some paints require heavier layers of neat thinner to get them to come off, the Colorcoats enamel for example on the tip tanks was a bit difficult to remove, very tough paint it seems, but every other type I've tried (Xtracolor, Humbrol, Revell, Tamiya, Mr.Hobby, Alclad IIRC) comes off pretty easily without making a huge mess. There probs are dedicated paint removers out there but this these thinners work just great in my experience. David
  14. Wow, very impressive work it looks awesome, you are doing the SR-71 justice! Aqua gloss I have found needs quite a wet layer after an initial 'biting' layer in order to get a proper shine, maybe not the absolute highest gloss varnish out there but it sure is tough for further weathering etc... David
  15. Lovely smooth painting Werner, I'd go for the fuel tank too. I wonder what the top speed was with all those stores hanging off, it would do well to go past Mach 1!
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