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As a result of the close-down of the UK by the British Government last night, we have made all the Buy/Sell areas read-only until we open back up again, so please have a look at the announcement linked here.

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About espeefan

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  1. Thanks, all of you for replying. That's sort of what I figured, it wasn't needed for the flight but I was looking for confirmation (it is pretty neat looking when installed!). I do have contemporary pictures of the surviving plane. I was pretty confused till I understood it was removable. Thanks for that link Dave, Google hadn't revealed it to me. Some good pictures, ones I don't have in my MC.72 folder, click and save......
  2. Trying to determine if the removable radiator on the rear lower fuselage was on the plane during either successful world record attempt. Anyone have an idea? the plane currently lacks it and only few photos show it, but that doesn't necessarily mean anything. TIA!
  3. those look suspiciously like the set I have from Eduard......
  4. Street price for the kit appears to be sub 25.00 in the US, so the purchase of a fillet less tail ( if one currently exists) or a cuffless prop is not going to really break the bank for most of us. or, if you cut the fillet off, and bodge it, (and there's another vertical tail to use as is, or to attempt to remove the fillet again)you're only out around 20.00 US. That's half a tank of gas for me. I know some folks do not like aftermarket stuff or modifying parts on their own, and we all have limits to what we can spend on the hobby, but still, I think there's good value to the Airfix kit if the outline proves accurate and the omissions easily rectified.
  5. Mike, you're talking about an M4A1. M4A1s were produced through the whole Sherman Production run, so what time period are you looking to make a model from? Shermans are really the farmers axe. A late production M4A1 has a different suspension, transmission cover, exhaust deflector, hull profile, larger hatches, different ammo stowage, a different turret, different gun, and that's just scratching the surface. CMK and Resicast both make interiors suitable for a mid-production M4A1, from say, Italy through the ETO campaign, and close enough for an early one. Tank Workshops makes an early M4 interior that would probably fit too-its really what I'm calling a mid production tank. The tasca "early" M4A1 is also really mid production. Their Sherman Mk II in British markings is a true early M4A1. I don't think anyone makes a T23 turret interior though, so an M4A1 76mm(w) isn't possible, though the Italeri kit has a presentable breech.
  6. Hate to sound cheap, but would you sell just the clear parts, decals and PE for a Hampton? Don't want to see my Valom kit wasted. And when is the P-36 family due?
  7. Go to full service hobby shop, and buy the type of white glue that RC modelers use to attach canopies, the most common being Formula 560 Canopy Glue. I haven't built the Wildcat yet, but if the windows press fit from inside, press them in and run a bead of glue using a toothpick around the join. If its a really snug fit you can thin it a bit to get it to flow between the 2.
  8. Doing Johnny Plagis' spitfire from the Sword dual Malta Spitfire/Reggiani kit. My guess would be after painting over the delivered camo scheme, they would not restore the stencils, but the undersides, if not painted, would retain them. What say all of you?
  9. The pictures Dogsbody links to are helpful, just be aware the one that appears to show the gunner entering from the right side is reversed. The rear fairing down, turret to starboard, guns slightly elevated and front fairing up was the most common and shows in the pictures. you can lower the step as well. Flaps really should be up by the way, but if it makes you happy to see them down, personally, I have no objection!
  10. No, 99% certain, natural metal, spar YZC. according to Dana bell, North American got permission to discontinue corrosion treatment. Only the spar would be primed to prevent corrosion caused by contact between dissimilar metals. Again, from an old post of Dana Bell's on Hyperscale.
  11. The torpedo bodies were silver, but they were greased to keep from oxidizing, so had a slight amber tone. The warheads were a lighter grey: http://tailspintopics.blogspot.com/2010/01/us-navy-aerial-torpedoes-in-world-war.html http://ww2db.com/image.php?image_id=25105 I think brass for the props is OK, see the 2nd picture
  12. I'll have to check your article when it appears! it is a really well done kit, isn't it! and its red!
  13. Yes, they are the only thing not included in the kit. Stretched sprue, with a glop of canopy glue on the end, fairly convincing I guess. And thank you.
  14. I hope you like it. The kits a beautiful build, no real problems at all.
  15. There are regular flights between them, you know.
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