Talon

Nice quick clean work as always. Make sure you fill the oval shaped panel just below the refuelling probe door on the nose, and the same one on the other side of the nose, as they are the mounting points for the D's ALR antenna which should not be present on a B.

Rigged...

Have to say it looks better in person, the photos don't do it justice (even if it IS an Airfix Brick!)...

10 votes for 19® Sqn Spithawk!!!

Oooohhh, not tempted to add the controls in then?

Hope you are going to get kinky with those wings... That nose REALLY needs to be introduced to Pinnochio...

No, it's the COs aircraft. CAG is a Navy term. No such thing as a CAG in the Marine Corps.

Colours as posted by Nick are spot on and here is Dave Roof's designed scheme

Mark, Let me know which aircraft you are building and I can probably get you some pics. I supplied a good chunk of the Warlords refs to Dave for this sheet. Are those bombs from the Revell Super Hornet? Regards, Craig Sargent

Here's my progress (need to update this - have quite a bit more done) if it helps http://zone-five.net/showthread.php?t=3591

Send a PM - too much happening to derail this thread.

Bill, You may not be aware, but the forward windscreen is different from the single seater and needs modifying. I am nearing completion of my TAV-8B build and when you think about it's really quite obvious, as the single seater slides backwards, so the trailing edge of the windscreen is a right angle. The side opening canopy on the two seater would not open if this were the same, so the forward end of the canopy becomes the right angle.. Have a look at this I made for comparison and look at the angles at the rear of the windscreen (two seater on the left and single on the right and both images taken square to the fuselage). I modified mine by measuring up the windscreen scale distance using the image and then removing a wedge from the rear. The Alitaliane canopy is too long anyway (as is their cockpit opening), so you should have extra canopy to play with. I ended up shoehorning a pair of Aires cockpits into mine for some very nice detail, however, there are no canopy opening hydraulic pistons which need to be scratchbuilt (they are quite prominent). Nick, Will send you a PM as I have one of the Alitaliane T.10 sets for disposal. Craig.

Thanks - not quite. The radome is scratchbuilt using a push mold of the kit parts to get scale thickness and then adding the inner details from scratch. The bulkhead and some fittings are scratch too, but the radar itself is the Aires F/A-18 radar modified.

My 3 (well, 2 1/2 really) Monogram 1/48 AV-8B II+ with AMRAAM Line conversion (inspired by Piero's AV-8B from the OP). Hasegawa 1/48 AV-8B II+ in-flight with scratchbuilt JDAM Hasegawa 1/48 TAV-8B conversion

Snap - just about finished my Hasegawa kit in the same scheme (except as 941, not 944). What decals did you use for yours?

Rob, Any updates on this one?

You are going to have fun with the intake fronts. I fitted mine before painting, and the outer edge of the two front parts you are painting red before fitting protrudes a good 1/2mm all round. And I can guarantee you it was not my assembly process.

Our centreline tanks were 400 gallons as opposed to the wing ones which were only 300 gallons, so there is quite a size difference if adding the centreline tank to a Kahu Skyhawk.

And remember to gloss before you decal - you'll notice a big difference.

Not having a gloss coat will compound both issues. The decals being as fragile as they were, will not move around easily on a matt surface. If you want an exaggerated example, try sliding a pice of plastic card on a piece of sandpaper and then on a piece of glass. The difference would be the same for a decal on a matt surface as opposed to a gloss surface. Applying the decal on a matt surface will also affect the adhesion more than if on a gloss surface. On a gloss surface, the decal effectively has one large area of contact and will stay put. On a matt surface, it is like applying it to a cushion of nails with just many small points holding the decal in place and adhesion is affected. Hopefully this will help with the next kit. Don't give up 1/72 too readily. The same issues are inherent in any scale, and 1/72 is a much better scale to master these skills in as it's not so expensive buying the models...

Sorry to hear about the issues with the kit. Building the same kit, albeit with the later markings linked above to Airliners.net and the only real issues I've found were small and easily remedied (don't ask about the drop tanks!). Looking at the pics, and given the water staining, it almost looks like the finish underneath the decals wasn't glossy enough. The tiger's head pic shows silvering around the edge of the decal too. What gloss coat did you use before decalling?

Psssst! Mikey! Two Words! Eduard Mirage!!!

Beautiful work. It would have looked impressive in it's unpainted state (i.e. the wood and metal finish). Amazed that you can get that much work done on a kit in such a short time. Easily on a par with, if not better than, Roy's one.

Harrier GB for me for sure, and would be happy to help that upstart Reeves moderate it even. I can add to the prizes with a sheet of these which I provided Bob some of the artwork for:

Yes, ScaleCast produced a resin conversion in 1/72 designed for the Fujimi kit. Now rare as hens teeth. The last one I saw went for about US$65 on eBay and that was quite a few years ago.