ironwork

The whole was then lighly primed with MULTIMEDIA PRIMER. Then airbrushed with OD from the SDW range. With SDW colors, nothing more is needed than putting the well shaken paint into the cup and start airbrushing at ab. 14,5 psi. A smooth finish is achieved with a drying time just a bit longer than an "ordinary" acrylic paint. A bit of SDW white was added to the last drop of OD, and airbrushed on prominent and higher spots to start featuring some shape.

For a more prominent casting apparel, I used ROUGH CASTING & ANTISKID. It was simply painted on unthinned on transmission housing, and a bit thinned with water for a more uneven effect on turret. This low lighted picture shows better the whole thing As dry, it was lightly sanded on transmission housing to achieve a slightly different texture

Hi all Sirs, it seems that after a lot of random and incomplete pieces made for videos, i'll have time to (finally ! ) finish off a model. Subject for this topic is the tamiya m4. I'll not post anything about building, since tamiya kits are straighforward building and well known. At the moment, the only building addition is forex plate to close the lower hull gap. And now we go directly to the decorative and weathering procedure.

Good day Sirs, someone asked me about pinwashes, and i'll take advance of this workbench kit to show how to do. This topic should go into the tips & tricks area i feel, but i'm not scheduled to post in it. All we need is a pointed brush, a bit of water and a towel. Maybe also a worth kit and a TE Transparent Filter... This is the most comfortable way i've experienced, but start panting, it will be a hard day ! Seep the brush into water. Nothing else, just simple water and nothing to add in. Take a bit of a Transparent Filter with the brush tip. (this is also a product-saver method, but forget i ever said it) Just touch some rivets Turn around raised objects Transparent Filters attitude, differently from paints of solvent-filters, is to keep nearby the objects and do not flow around. Within a couple of minutes the whole is dry and handable. ps : you will have the patience not to look at some other parts of the model, where i've done it my way (read roughly and overdone), since the whole will be dirted and needs more prominent effects. This done, you Sirs will give me license to go to seaside

thanks a lot Guys ....

A well balanced composition Nice !

...thanks ! ... and finally done...

I particularly like the weathering on the sides

I simply love it... You gave me an insane idea, since the sharkmouth adds a greatly aggressive look

But... a the very last minute, i noticed that crude plastic was visible from cooling grills ! With some forex pieces i arranged a pair of look-like fuel tanks and cooling fans. Just essential shapes, for what is visible in the shadow.

...I apologize for being so late (job, job job.....) The last step in weathering was the addition of some grease leak-outs and streaks.

One sure advantage of these resins, is that when dry, any excess or unwanted pattern can be soflty removed with a brush. For a dry looking earth, the whole is then definitely fixed with thinned matt clear finish, MATT LOCK Then

Thanks Guys ! Now it's finally time for dirt. For a thinly dotted, but not overwhelming effect, some "structured powders" are easily sprinkled over the water wet tank.

Thanks Guys ! The gun sleeve was also thinly washed with rust bubbles And tracks, they too primed in dark brown, randomly airbrushed with two lighter tones of structured filters

@ Kahunaminor : welcome into the tankers cave... Burnt bow apart, i wanted a scarcely worn machine. I just added some light rusty washes with a bit of filter over some flat plates and mudguards. A thin veil of structured filter rebro rust is spread over the water wet surface, to achieve a soft pattern. The actual amount is much less than shown into picture. Just let the part lie flat, until the filter is almost dry, to achieve a regular pattern.

A first batch of selective filters around details, with a dark metallic tone. Just use a water wet round brush, take a bit of filter with the tip, then turn around raised details and inside panel lines. This is a little trick to add a subtle metallic effect, which helps removing the plastic-toy look from the model.

Thanks you all guys. Too kind coomments anyway... @IanC : you're right Ian, i wanted to give to turret both a dust-faded and geometrically highlighted spot, and i liked to overdo it a bit. Then, having on hand the "burnt" filters, i used them for a wash over mufflers. (which were previously left in their primer brown color.)

After a bit of stop due to vacation ( and working twice to recuperate those "lost" days...), it's time to go on with the beast. Now let's go to the burnt part, with the specific filter/colors from "burnt out pack". I did not use the specific primer, using the appearing dark brown primer left from the previous painting. Subsequent layers of the different filters are left to flow, over the water-wet surface, to let them freely spread and fade.

With a bit of cut-and-reposition, the n.112 can be achieved directly from kit's decals. They are put on with some CRYTAL LOCK to avoid silvering. I prefer to set decals after light and shadows, and then harmonize them with some brushed on filters, to achieve a the controlled contrast i want.

Hi David, the b&b book, shows n 112 being ferried by fahr prahm or similar barge. About the color, the mantlet was surely repaired and painted over before the bow burning, as there are some pictures depicting this tank. But i don't believe they also painted the bow with lighter color, as this burnt areas are still visible. Anyway, with that inclined light and dust build up, the exact colors are a mistery.

I must again say thanks, Roger. Now a water-thinned overall airbrushing of ACID FILTER, to rebalance lights a bit. Then shadows were airbrushed with another transparent filter, GREY BLUE AGEING. You'll note that i do not use lighter and darker hues of the basic color, into a tone-over-tone manner, as usually done. I prefer to do this job directly with filters, progressively adding a chromatic "richness". Thus bypassing the usual color-modulation-then-filters. (and smelling no solvants, since these ones are waterbased)

Thanks Ozzy ! To add shape, lights and shadows,I find easier and faster to directly use transparent filters. PAINT FADING 2 was airbrushed on upper spots and plate borders.

A full day drying time for primer, then the base paint. Do not ask me the brand, it's a home made mix directly from raw materials. The burnt bow and mufflers, are left unpainted. Primer color is also left to appear here and there through the paint, like on wheels.

Now the part i best like, painting and finishing. First layer of this primer, thinned with tamiya thinner, has a dark brown finish. Second layer of the same product, thinned with alcohool, has a dirty and faded apparel. This helps when an uneven finish is needed. The same for tracks.