ironwork
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The whole is fixed airbrushing some well diluted Fix & Wet, contained into the Set, spreading more by brush in some spots for a wet effect.
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@FrancisGL : Structured Powders are purposely formulated resins, and not a milled mineral as pigments are. They are larger particles compared to pigments, easier to build up with a small amount. The colors you spread will have the same hue when dry (while pigments change color when they dry). But the most prominent features are that they don't need chalk powder, nor solvents. Just water. Once dry you can remove them partially or totally to adjust the amount or to achieve softer transitions. Then you fix them with their fixer. Alternative method : you directly mix them with their fixer and splotch them on to the surface
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Thank you Guys Spreading some earth dirt with Structured Powders. These are not pigments, and easier to use. Just dampen the surface with water, take some product with a brush and leave it to fall like snow.
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To counterbalance somewhat the overall warm tones of the model, pinwashes with a cold tone.
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More blending for a graded effect is also added to the large soldered areas of hull and turret. An here we are now
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Thank you Guys @ Simon : oh….what a surprise… Subtle streaks added on sloped sides. Somewhat like the oil-dot technique, but on smaller areas, because although these paints dry slower than acrylics, they are faster than oils. For the blending I used a water-wet brush, this way the gradations have a sharper streaked effect.
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The same paints are used for subtle drybrushing, further altering the Whole
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Some steps ahead compared to so cal acrylics. P.ex. because they're really water-only paints, or because they're also blendable.
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Now it's time to differentiate some areas, applying different methods : - directly covering the base paint of engine plate, mufflers… with thin coats of altered tones. - altering some spots thorugh a wet on dry blending of other tones over the base paint - blending wet on wet different tones Therefore, the same paint used for painting, takes place of oils into the weathering process.
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Thank you Soeren Now a very light coat of some different mixes of minium. And metal on some smaller parts. This model should represent a what if panther, hurried up to the battlefield directly from the building plant.
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Wheel hidden sides are now painted with a thin layer of minium Now the whole wheel assembly is turned turtle, and the outer sides are primed with Chromatic Primer, together with hull.
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Hi all Sirs, here my latest cat in progress. An old 1/35 Dragon reference built from the box, so let's go straight to painting. At first, a dark priming to all inner wheels side and hull spots
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M4 Sherman - painting & weathering
ironwork replied to ironwork's topic in Work in Progress - Armour
Hi Guys, and thank you for resurrecting this old topic @Ripaman : did you see the P & W free course ? -
Thank you much Guys. Some more pics. This kit availed me to win a master gold prize at the Italeri event in Bologna. (being awarded by the commander of 6th Squadron of Ghedi, flying on tornado planes, is not a daily business...)
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Some pictures of the finished tiny beast
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The very last effect is some oil leaks from the engine. Given the need for subtlety, a filter & wash, black tone, was used.
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The last "shape enhance" actions are made with cold ageing filter, subtle touches into some recesses and wing joints
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The thickened light grey mix is spread and feathered over gun bulges, radiator edges and so on to add shape. And thin touches of the samre paint to subtlely simulate scratches.
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The light grey mix instead, is used to mark some detail edges, thus adding to shape.
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Hi Guys, thanks @ Ian : find all here www.true-earth.com Now some weathering. Again with SDW shading colors. A light grey mix, and sand. They are left to get thicker into a jar, for a better feathering on small areas. At first sand color is applied and feathered with a brush on tyres edges and wheel covers.
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Brush, a water-wet cosmetic sponge and metaliner Simply take some product directly from the bottle, draw lines into the recessed panel lines, and remove the excess with the wet sponge. That's all.
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Now the whole receives a thin coat of crystal lock clear varnish as a base for the paneling job.
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Thanks Ian Now I wanted to scale down and revive a bit the whole paintjob. Done with an subtle overall airbrushing with tone up filter.
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I think that aircraft models need subtlety, and still more for this scale. That's why I prefer to go on with filters.Targets: shape enhance and add depht to colors.At first some LIGHT & FADING 2, from the range filter & wash, was gently airbrushed in the center of downside panels. To keep a coherent and uniform ensemble, it was airbrushed on upper sides too, but just subtlely along panel joints and details A bit more on landing gear, also to desaturate the rubber tyres. A little note : maybe you need to increase monitor lighting, as these are there subtle effects.
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Hi Jean, thanks ! Speckles finally made thinning a mix of od and olive green thinned ab. 50% in ethanol. Just a test to try out different methods for this kind of paints into a thin airbrushing. An alternative I'm also testing is the use of unthinned paint at ab. 25-29 psi. Well, I'm not the king of airbrush, but I can say myself satisfied up 'till now
