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bertopinal

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  1. The intakes of the S are NOT enlarged, but only had the lip cutted back by 1/2 inch. The more air needed by the motor, under some limited circumstance, was feeded by the opening the lateral squared portholes. r.
  2. YESSS !!!! Thank so much. roberto
  3. HELP ! I need to found photo-etched 1/48 propeller hub for WW I wooden airscrew. I vaguely remeber a polish (?) company marketing something, but is a vague and old remember. Can anyone help me ? TIA Roberto from Italy
  4. By my opinion, if the model is in 72, you may use a styrene sheet of right thickness and carve the wing. For the 48 you only augment the thickness.... r.
  5. I made some "yellow wing" models using Humbrol colours. For yellow i have the last two tin of the discontinued 188 Chrome Yellow, equivalent to FS 13538. For the Light Blue 23 i made my own recipe with the reference of The Official Monogram US Army etc. etc. The recipe is HU 47 x 12 / HU 15 x 3 / HU 2 x 2 / HU 22 x 2. r.
  6. The RAL colours where used as standard since the middle of the Eighties, the introduction of the FS standard was slow and firts on the new production/refurbished aircraft; with the FS was also introduced the use of plastic mask for the paint, because of that the demarcation lines where sharp. The chimical composition of the RAL colours was different from that of the successive FS : the green faded in 'brown' and the grey remain more or less the same; with the FS standard the grenn remain the same but the grey faded in a sort of light bluish/grey; the best way remain an accurate study of the pictures. As reported, the Unit indivudual number was not permanently assigned, but change following the maintenance life of the plane; usually a Unit want to have in line aircraft with running numbers (1,2,3 etc) not regarding the MM (Matricola Militare - serial number) of the ship; if 37-01 MMxxx1 goes to maintenance, the MMxx11 was numbered 37-01, and so on. To find italian books, a good source is Milistoria ( www.milistoria.it); for Tauro decaks see www.prontomodel.com r.
  7. By far i know, the forged landing gear was introduced with the start of the military orders. The main aestetically differece between the C-47 and C-53 are the cargo door and the number/dimension of windows; internally the C-53 don't have the reinforced floor but a 'luxury' closed toilet. r.
  8. Airfix is a REAL C-47 of the last production batches, with all the stiffer and so on; ESCI is the best 2nd and is more close to a REAL DC-3. Italeri come as far 3rd. The problem with this plane is the confusion generated after the war when a lot of C-47/C-53 where used by civilian airlines who called them all DC-3. To achieve a good reproduction you have to decide your subject and collect all the informations/pictures available. Personally i have i my stash an ESCI kit to be transformed in the lone DC-3 used by the Regia Aeronautica, a fomer SABENA machine of the very first production batches. The diffecences respect to the 'classic' DC-3 are many : engines cover like the DC-2, undecarriage in welded steel tubes instead of forged one, differente doors and windows. r.
  9. I spent time trying to achieve a decent wood finish on the propeller, only to discover later the original was black painted 😂 r.
  10. My finished Mirage Hobby PZL-23B Karas ; nice model but really over-engineered with a lot of small parts, details and difficult-to-assembly parts, most of the interior required a lot of job and finally is half hidden 😒 . Because i'm a masochist i used also the p.e. Eduard detail set 😫. I had two 'poetic license' : the spat on the undercarriage, not present in the real plane and the wood propeller not painted in black. The kit instruction are not exaustive and referred only to Vallejo colours; it took me a lot of research to find Humbrol equivalent. The upperside khaki is a blend of Revell colours ( 6 x 381 Semigloss Brown RAL 8001 / 1 x Flat Bronze Green RAL 6031 / 1 x Gloss Emerald Green RAL 6029 ). The decals are from the box, really beautiful but thin and requiring a lot of care to be positioned correctly. The model is of a plane of the 21st Bomber Flight of Bomber Brigade at Cracow in September 1939 r. https://flic.kr/s/aHsmCWwJ77
  11. Finally i finish my 'Pete' , the work was hard because the half-finished model was buried under a stack of boxes who collapsed with their shelf . The model is OOB, the only modification are some wiring on the engine and Eduard seat belt. A really nice model, easy to assembly but requiring a lot of attention due to the numerous small parts ( my carpet monster is always hungry...). I followed Hasegawa painting instruction and don't make any search about their accuracy. R.
  12. Since long time the Definat was one of my favorite subjects; years ago i sweat a lot with the Classic Airframe model, finally i salvaged only the gun turret and trow all the remains in to the garbage. The Airfix model is nicely tooled and require pratically no putty, the lone missing are the seatbelts, but is not the problem. The real worst part are the decals, very well printed, good and saturated colours but NO GLUE ! I used a lot of Daco 'strong' setting solution, but, after a layer of flat paint, the decals fly away alone.... The decals are from my "bank" and the letter are painted using self-made masks ; after the final touch i discover Montex produce a set of masks 😨😩😩 Here one of the first operative Defiant of the 264 Sqdn in Febraury 1940, as drawn at pag. 176 of the Ducimus Book Camouflage and Markings n.8 Roberto from Italy
  13. Thanks to all for the reply. Finally, after a long and deep dig in my colours wharehouse, i decided to use the Revell M 37 reddish brown : a bit of red and a bit of maroon, just in middle... Finally, right or wrong is my Wivern ... 😛 https://www.flickr.com/photos/160715996@N03/ r.
  14. OMG ! the confusion is growing under the sky... Many thanks to all for the replies. r.
  15. Many thanks. No idea of Humbrol equivalent of XF-9 ?
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