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About bertopinal

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  1. I made some "yellow wing" models using Humbrol colours. For yellow i have the last two tin of the discontinued 188 Chrome Yellow, equivalent to FS 13538. For the Light Blue 23 i made my own recipe with the reference of The Official Monogram US Army etc. etc. The recipe is HU 47 x 12 / HU 15 x 3 / HU 2 x 2 / HU 22 x 2. r.
  2. The RAL colours where used as standard since the middle of the Eighties, the introduction of the FS standard was slow and firts on the new production/refurbished aircraft; with the FS was also introduced the use of plastic mask for the paint, because of that the demarcation lines where sharp. The chimical composition of the RAL colours was different from that of the successive FS : the green faded in 'brown' and the grey remain more or less the same; with the FS standard the grenn remain the same but the grey faded in a sort of light bluish/grey; the best way remain an accurate study of the p
  3. By far i know, the forged landing gear was introduced with the start of the military orders. The main aestetically differece between the C-47 and C-53 are the cargo door and the number/dimension of windows; internally the C-53 don't have the reinforced floor but a 'luxury' closed toilet. r.
  4. Airfix is a REAL C-47 of the last production batches, with all the stiffer and so on; ESCI is the best 2nd and is more close to a REAL DC-3. Italeri come as far 3rd. The problem with this plane is the confusion generated after the war when a lot of C-47/C-53 where used by civilian airlines who called them all DC-3. To achieve a good reproduction you have to decide your subject and collect all the informations/pictures available. Personally i have i my stash an ESCI kit to be transformed in the lone DC-3 used by the Regia Aeronautica, a fomer SABENA machine of the very first production batch
  5. I spent time trying to achieve a decent wood finish on the propeller, only to discover later the original was black painted r.
  6. My finished Mirage Hobby PZL-23B Karas ; nice model but really over-engineered with a lot of small parts, details and difficult-to-assembly parts, most of the interior required a lot of job and finally is half hidden . Because i'm a masochist i used also the p.e. Eduard detail set . I had two 'poetic license' : the spat on the undercarriage, not present in the real plane and the wood propeller not painted in black. The kit instruction are not exaustive and referred only to Vallejo colours; it took me a lot of research to find Humbrol equivalent. The upperside khaki is a blend of Re
  7. Finally i finish my 'Pete' , the work was hard because the half-finished model was buried under a stack of boxes who collapsed with their shelf . The model is OOB, the only modification are some wiring on the engine and Eduard seat belt. A really nice model, easy to assembly but requiring a lot of attention due to the numerous small parts ( my carpet monster is always hungry...). I followed Hasegawa painting instruction and don't make any search about their accuracy. R.
  8. Since long time the Definat was one of my favorite subjects; years ago i sweat a lot with the Classic Airframe model, finally i salvaged only the gun turret and trow all the remains in to the garbage. The Airfix model is nicely tooled and require pratically no putty, the lone missing are the seatbelts, but is not the problem. The real worst part are the decals, very well printed, good and saturated colours but NO GLUE ! I used a lot of Daco 'strong' setting solution, but, after a layer of flat paint, the decals fly away alone.... The decals are from my "bank" and the letter are painted
  9. Thanks to all for the reply. Finally, after a long and deep dig in my colours wharehouse, i decided to use the Revell M 37 reddish brown : a bit of red and a bit of maroon, just in middle... Finally, right or wrong is my Wivern ... https://www.flickr.com/photos/160715996@N03/ r.
  10. OMG ! the confusion is growing under the sky... Many thanks to all for the replies. r.
  11. Many thanks. No idea of Humbrol equivalent of XF-9 ?
  12. I'm finishing my Trumpeter 1/48 Wivern in the colours of the 830 Sqdn during the Suez campaign. A terrible doubt : the spinner and the finlets where red as indicated in the instruction or maroon as indicated in a old SAM article ? TIA Roberto from Italy
  13. Is it just issued a book devoted to the camouflage of the Italian aircrafts during the WW I ; sorry, is in italian only...... http://nuke.gmtmodellismo.it/ r.
  14. By memory, the change from C2 to MB was around the middle of the '70 ; pratically all the S and successive variants had the MB. The G had the C2 from start and then the MB. To gain room the MB seat was mounted with a light (some degrees) tilt to front. r.
  15. As written before the main estetical difference between the F-104J and F-104G are in the undercarriage area; pay also a lot of attention at various antennes and sensors, a good collection of pictures in mandatory. Just a little note OT about the difference between the G and S : the fuselage is the same, only the exaust are different; also a little difference, but pratically ininfluent in 1:72 and 1:48 is the lip of the air intake : in the S it is half an inch (real scale) shorter than in the G. Last : Italeri had announced a re-boxing of the Hasegawa plastic with Cartograph decals
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