Planebuilder62

Hi there dr_gn Maybe using both Future and Microsol at the same time caused a chemical reaction that made the fogging. I have tried both fluids on decals but not at the same time. I have made a few of these Airfix Spits and I fill in all the panel lines with Milliput before gluueing anything together. When rubbed down there is a faint indentation of the panel line left, which for me in 1\72 is fine. As you say, maybe overting this one is causing some of the problems. Regards Toby

Oops Airfix

Hi Jørgen I am a bit late to the party but my favourite metal looking paints are Alclad II. It sprays nicely and can be masked over after a short time. Regards Toby

Hi Jabba Don’t forget to shorten the oleo on the front lamding gear. If it isn’t shortened you get an un natural nose up attitude from the Revell mouldings. Regards Toby

Hi there Is it very difficult to make Belekos Mig 25P from an ICM 1/72 Mig 25PD? zregards Toby

Nice paint job Jon 👍😊

Sometime things take time, its only a hobby right? 😊😊😊

Vingtor might have made these decals but they are hard to find

Dear Gary Looking at this makes me want to dig my Snoopy out of the stash. For the test bed version, where will the propeller come from and can the Black dog hatches be closed up? Regards Toby

Hi AW Look out when fitting the bottom wing to the fuselage, the moulding is a bit out of square when looking down from on top. Regards Toby

Old fashioned Basildon Bond writing paper works well. Instead of cutting straight belts around shoulders, cut a curved belt in paper. Its dirt cheap to make templates, a single sheet of paper would be enough for a whole army of model figures. Regards Toby

Hi Matt Do you have 2 sets of roundels for the fuselage or do the ones you have got good colour density? Many decals laid over invasion stripes are a bit translucent so you see the stripes through the decals. Regards Toby

Hi there I understand that VX-4 was the US Navy evaluation sqadron for the Tomcat but I have not yet seen a picture of the Black Bunny F-14 on an aircraft carrier. Were they ever deployed to a carrier during their test duties? Regards Toby

Black Dog sell a hydraulics and sensor pack to allow a CV-22 to be built. Regards Toby

As an alernative to instructions, close study of the Wasps in @Juliens Walk around section or the Warpaint book should be enough to get you going. Thats how I built my Wasp using an Airfix Scout and the Air Graphics conversion set that came out before their new complete kit. Regards Toby

The Stockholm Run book written by Nils Mathisrud, aka @Vingtor, and published by MMP should answer all your questions. Regards Toby

Fantastic rebuild, well done

Rumour has it that Vingtor might be issueing some new F-16 decal sets soon. 😊

Very nice job Mr Hamiltonian. Finding good references and nice space model kits is a challenge compared to a lot of aircraft modelling. You have made a very nice job of showing the different NMF finishes. BTW, how long is the finished model compared to someting more familiar such as a 1/72 plane for comparison? Regards Toby

Fantastic build Jeremy 👍😊

Lovelly model Paul. Do you have any more pictures? Regards Toby

Hi Simon How does the front cockpit transperency fit? Do the fuselage sides need pulling in to avoid a step? Regards Toby

Here is one I made earler, hope the pictures still work

Hi there I saw that the Big H is listing this kit in their future releases. Does anyone know when it will be available? Regards Toby

Dear Pete I have built one of these a few years ago and I recommend you buy not 1 but 2 Eduard canopy masks. The nose glazing does not fit together so well so of found the best build sequence was this 1. Apply masks to all nose glazing. 2. Glue the nose glazing to the nose. There will be steps at the joins and maybe some filler at the join to the fuselage. 3. Spray the nose area with yor choice of RLM 66 Dark grey. 4. Rub down the nose. This might result in some masks coming off. If that happens, polish the glzing until it becomes clear. 5. Use the second set of masks to cover over the polished areas in step 4. 6. Respray with RLM 66. Something else that needs looking at is possible excessive dihedral and there might be a step between the wing underside join and the fuselage. BTW Have you taken a look at these? https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/forum/696-heinkel-he-111-stgb/ Regards Toby