72linerlover
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Posts posted by 72linerlover
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Giorgio, nice to see the wing in place.
Now you have to take care of that 13 mm (real) gap right aft the engine cowling.
Be easy with the other panel lines: Macchis were quite good built.
Bye
Euge
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It seems that your british and american followers are away for holyday today.
So let me be the first to comment this w.e. report.
Amazing bits there to dress up the wheel bay, but among the other, the supercharger air duct has a stellar finish.
Bye
Euge
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9 minutes ago, giemme said:
reuse part of the plastic actuator ..... drill a receiving hole in the remaining outer section and glue it in place at this stage -
Nah, don't bother saving a piece of styrene. Find the proper steel or aluminum rod and you are done, also with the colour.
Bye
Euge
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2 hours ago, giemme said:
Cheers corsaircorp, thank you!
Thanks G.
However, there's a downside to this solution too: the wheel legs fit is quite loose, and the kit actuators help in that respect as they allow some margin to play with the positioning, also because they can bend a bit. If I chose to replace them with stiffer material, I'm going to have to be very precise in terms of dimensions...
Ciao
Hi Giorgio, let me jump in for a little while.
You don't need to be very precise. You can keep pipe and rod only plugged and glue each part after the gear leg is in place
So you can adjust in lengtht; than a drop of chano between the rod an the pipe.
I did the same on the model you saw.
I'll tell you how much I appreciate this build when we'll meet in Cremona, right?
Bye
Euge
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Hi Ham.
I'm working on a Twotter too and facing the same problem.
The P010 propellers are the correct pitch (LH) but the tip is too squared.
You have to check if the diam. is 36mm, At the moment I can't reach the Hartzell website, but I remember that 36mm was correct.
So if you can be sure of the diameter, you only have to round a little the tips and you'r golden. This is the propeller.
An other option is to find a 1/72 Airfix Handley Page Jetstream (not that easy at a reasonable price).
If I'm not wrong, the Hartzell website lists the same prop for both aircraft even if the blade tips are more squared.
I came up with using the Jetsream props (diam 36,5) that a friend gave me, since he modified it in a -31 (a four blade).
Good luck.
Eugenio
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Great!!!!!!!!!
I followed step by step this build and it was a real pleasure. Now it's time for me to see the model in person.
Now take a breath and enjoy the congratulation from the web.
Ciao
Eugenio
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Hi,
"VT 137" is a little generic, because a lot of german cars belong to the same "Bauart".
Already tried to google "vt 137 drawing"?
You get some Wikimedia images, but I'd suggest to enter in touch with THIS website.
Hope this helps
Regards
Eugenio
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Giorgio, first of all let me say: another gem is coming. Great job.
Than, I found some times ago, a discussion over the additional intakes you asked for.
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=36353&p=
Easily got again. Who wrote, worked on the Harriers in the 90s, so quite reliable.
Bye
Eugenio
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Hi Giemme.Just a little warning about your build.I have learned all Harriers have a side step on the right just under the intake that is linked to the canopy.If you are going to let the canopy open, just remember to build that step.You can see this feature at 3:15 of this video.Good luck with your build.EugenioP.S. Fantastic Phantom. (Can't wait to see in person: I'll beg Silvano for a guided visit to the ac factory)
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Hi, Paul.
Since you are looking for a water based colour, the only 707 gray I know is this.
Another option could be Gunze Aqueous H338, close to Canadian Voodoo, normally accepted as a close match, but darker.
Regards
Eugenio
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Eugenio,
I own a Fournier RF5B, which I share with my partner. She has for quite some time been enquiring about a model of the RF5. Your pictures here may inspire us to try to model our machine. They are lovely aircraft, true sky dancers, though mine is not aerobatic.
Moulding the larger bubble canopy for the 5B will be a real challenge of course, maybe the hardest challenge; it's many years I last tried any plunge forming, which I think may be the same as your thermoforming(?). For this maybe I'd need to build or buy a vacforming machine.
Do you know any of the Italian Fournier Club International folk? We met them a couple of years back on a Europe tour they did. Lovely people - one day we shall fly our machine to Italy I hope.
Regards,
John B
Hi John,Thank you for your appreciation.Yes, plunge forming was my way to make the canopy. I heated a PVC sheet on a candle, since the small size. I've been doing this way for more than 40 years, and never used vacuum. It shouldn't be difficult to do the same for the 5B canopy.As regards the Fournier Club, I can send you the email address of the owner of the D-KIND. He is a former Alitalia pilot , great modeler, born in Cremona, now living in Rome.RegardsEugenio -
Giemme,
out of my field, here.
I like a lot the moderate but consistent weathering.
Great attention to details.
Eugenio
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Thanks again, mates.
Eugenio
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giemme,
I'm from Cremona. THIS is true.
Eugenio
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Thanks, sirs, for your appreciation.In answer to andy wood a little construction report.Fuselage.I made a wooden master of the inside dimensions and cut in 3 parts.The front one was used for thermoforming the engine cowling, the rear one to be covered in plastic sheets. The central (cockpit) one deleted.The assembly followed gluing together the parts with bulkheads inside.Wings.They are made of 2 thin sheets of plasticard glued to a tapered spar.The leading edge is a rectangular profile shaped.All control surfaces are done the same way.Canopy.Thermoformed like usual. The inside black frames are made of insulating tape and the outside ones of painted decal stripes.
Cockpit. Not much to say: some thin sheet of aluminum for the IP, stretched sprue and all what you normally use to dress it up.
Main landing gear.The tyre is a rubber "OR ring" and the strut a mix of aluminum and plastic stripes.The markings are homemade laser decals.@giemme "Cremona terra di grandi modellisti, si direbbe" translation: Cremona, land of great modelers.I do agree; unfortunately I'm not among them.
Regards
Eugenio
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Good evening, sirs.A friend of mine here on BM asked me to post some of my models.Here is a scratchbuilt 1/72 Fournier RF-5. The original belongs to a friend and my son had his first flight ever on this plane.Thanks for watching.
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Silvano, let me publicly appreciate your Chipmunk. You already know I like it a lot having followed step by step the build.Thumbs up.Eugenio
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Wait, MH!I doubt that the fore link is attached to the cylinder. It is quite aft and there is a sort of bearing.The spring belongs to the reverse system. This picture doesn't represent a BR52, but it is similar.Eugenio
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Hi, MHI suppose you are refering to the black spring in this picture.If you look at this other one, you see where it is linked.In this third photo, you almost see the other end of the spring linked to something that has to do with the "direction reverse system" (if it is so named in english).I'm refering to those devices, activated by the wheel in the cabin, that invert the steam flow in the cylinders to reverse from forward to backward.It can be that the spring retains the levers alternatively in both positions.ByeEugenio
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Hi, MadhatterI seldom visit this section, but I have some experiences about trains and hope to be of help.Short answers1) None of this scale corresponds to 1/35 (O scale is 1/43,5)2) 2 through 2,5 mm should be ok3) generally the bolts are 25 to 35 mm, so dividing by the scale ratio they should be 0,7 to 1 mm.Regarding the bolts and rivets you will find this link useful: link1. Yes it is in Italian, but it is a good source of suggestion.I also noticed that the internet is quite full of images of this "Lokomotive". Take a look here: link2.Best regardsEugenio
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Hi, Steve.
I'm very happy you ended your fantastic build.
I followed your in-progress thread with much interest and not only from a modeling point of view.
Of course that is the best Chippy I have ever seen.
Thanks for sharing your techics and for having given all us the joy to see that beauty.
Eugenio
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Hi, Nigel.
First of all: fantastic job on that fascinating Rotodyne!!
Don't give up using Alclad. There probably is some problem in the base coat before the aluminum.
Polished and Airframe Aluminum (Hi Shine Alclad) need a black gloss base to give the best results. I guess you used a black enamel.
Besides this, while regular Alclad shades can be masked and oversprayed, Hi Shine ones cannot.
To avoid any risk, is better to plan the masking and painting process, keeping in mind the few Alclad rules you find on their website.
I encourage you to keep on using Alclad in the future and you will get wonderful results.
This is what I have on the way.
Best Regards
Eugenio
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However, there's a downside to this solution too: the wheel legs fit is quite loose, and the kit actuators help in that respect as they allow some margin to play with the positioning, also because they can bend a bit. If I chose to replace them with stiffer material, I'm going to have to be very precise in terms of dimensions... 
The Macchi's! "Folgore" and "Veltro" in 1/48, Hasegawa plastic - COMPLETED! Page 42
in Work in Progress - Aircraft
Posted
Pay attention, Giorgio,
the gap on the port side runs even on the air duct fairing.
Nice choice of tempera wash. I always use them. When I have to let it run in small gaps or angles, I wet the parts with a mix of water and dish soap (just a drop). This acts as surfactant and allows the paint to run “automatically” wherever you need.
Bye
Euge