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72linerlover

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Posts posted by 72linerlover


  1. Hi, ianwau.

    I discovered your thread some days ago, but I find time to replay only now.

    First of all: congratulation for your approach to this difficult build.

    I have in the stash the same kit since 2014 that a friend of mine brought me directly form France.

    I wrote some notes about the surgery needed in order to get a decent model and the last sentence was:

    "I don't see any alternative to build a new wing and adapt the engines nacelles on".

    And to make new wings I thought to a wooden core with thin plasticard glued on.

    Unfortunately the airfoil (and the consequent wing/body fairing) is not the only problem.

    If you need, I can post some references about the other issues and the correction needed as the level of the pax windows that should be at least 2 mm lower. etc....

    Good luck for you build.

    Regards

    Eugenio

    • Like 1

  2. Hi, Gooney Fan.

     

    Unfortunately I missed to buy a correction set for the Superconstellation too. Of course my hope is that Paul will be able to resume production, more for him than for me.

    Anyway the site is still up, except for the shopping cart.
    At this link you can find three images of the tip tanks.
    They are so nice that you can use as reference for scratcbuilding them.

    As you see, the most evident difference is in the lenght, so that the correct tank results more slim. (I can guess the diameter is almost correct)

     

    At this other link there is a quite reliable drawing that can give you an idea.

     

    Hope this helps.

    Best regards

    Eugenio

     


  3. 3 hours ago, Fritag said:

    What sticky stuff did you use Bill?  I’m thinking CA but fear the speed of cure.......

    Hi Steve.

    In case of so small stuff, I use some enamel paint or Mr. Surfacer. Just let evaporate a while before applying.

    Always following with great interest your progress.

    Regards

    Eugenio

    • Like 3
    • Thanks 1

  4. On 6/22/2019 at 10:51 AM, Fritag said:

    I wonder if there is anything that can be done to hasten the release/drying out/whatever of a new resin master?

    Hi, Fritag.

    For my resin masters I used a cheap "Prochima" 1:1 resin and I was simply lucky waiting only two or three days.
    Never done before, but perhaps a gentle buffing with a rubbing alcohol dumped cloth could help. Or simply with water and soap.
    About the final thickness after forming, I'll tell you that I use plunge forming, without vacuum and hold the clear plastic by two side clamps. This way you get an almost constant thickness.
    Ok, not very scientific or industrial, but I'm happy with that.
    I seem to remember to have done this way working with Silvano anh his Chipmunk too.
    Cheers
    Eugenio

    • Like 1

  5. 1 hour ago, Fritag said:

    So I'm expecting a bit of a faff with the canopies tbh...........

    Hi, Fritag, welcome back from me too.
    I remember exactly what you did for the Chipmunk canopy.

    Don't worry about the withstand of the resin under the heat solicitation during thermoforming, if the master is really totally catalysed.
    If you noticed in the past some effect on the clear plastic, it was probably due to some release of the "polyol" of the resin that did not truly mix with the catalyzer.
    So let the master set for a pair of days, be gentle with plastic heating and quick in forming. Make sure you put (glue) the master on a flat surface only some millimeter narrower as its contour. I mean something like this, even if here the master is in one piece with the support.
    This is important because, if you keep the master on top of a little rod, you may run the risk to bend it during thermoforming.
    Hope this helps.

     

    Bye

    Eugenio

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  6. Good morning.

     

    The 707 family is probably one of the most complicated among airliners.
    Let's make it clear.
    Our friend has two 1/72 707, so 1/144 is out of discussion.

    The Heller kit is a long body one, a -300B series.
    With the introduction of RR engines, -400 means RR engines, so -430 is the RR Long body, but only corresponding to the 320 with Pratt&Witney JT-4A.

    Please note: only 320 and not -320B or -320C.

    Lufthansa had four 707-430 ( D-ABOG, D-ABOC, D-ABOD, D-ABOF)

    BOAC had ten 707-430, actually designated 707-436 (G-APFF, G-APFH, G-APFI, G-APFJ, G-APFK, G-APFL, G-APFM, G-APFN, G-APFO, G-APFP)

    Both Lunthansa and BOAC operated -300B and 300C (cargo) series, with Pratt&Witney JT-3D engines.
    Their designation was BOAC 707-336B/C, Lufthansa 707-330B/C, but this is another story.

     

    Now back to modelling, the wing plantform at the root of the -430 is closer, except for the dimensions, to the -120 (short body) series, but not impossible to achive from the -300B wing, if the Ha Hen instruction (that I don't know them) are correct.
    You'll also need to rescribe a very short section of the split flaps under the fillet at the root.

    I see a big challenge in rebuild the wing-to-body fairing, that, obviously is closer to the short body one and involves both the wing and the fuselage modifications.


    As a side note, just speaking of "side": unfortunately Heller misaligned the cockpit with the passengers' cabin windows.
    So, in a side view of the fuselage, you should see an ideal line running through the bottom of the pax windows hitting the lower end of the first frame of the cockpit.

    Take a look on the pics on the net and you'll get the point. The liveries of that time are merciless with misalignments.

     

    Sorry if I have been tedious, but I wanted to share with you the information I collected and hope they are right.


    Good luck, Tommo, with your build.

     

    Best regards.

    Eugenio

    • Like 3

  7. Oh God! So much expensive are 1/144 injected kits here in Europe? I build in 1/72 and had no idea about. The site asked for less than 20$.

    Anyway, also on another forum, the Minicraft JT3Ds aren't considered good and many suggest Revell.

    Good luck for your projects.

    Euge


  8. Hi, Björn.

    The Minicraft website lists an E-3 NATO Standard and a C-18A USAF NATO.

    They have both JT3D engines and cost less than aftermarket engines sets. Also Authentic Airliners offers JT3Ds, but it is the long "hush kit" version, not suitable for the 720B.
    Another way could be to ask Roden if they want to sell you the JT3Ds of their 720B. They are just two little sprues.

    Best regards

    Eugenio


  9. On 11/30/2018 at 9:05 PM, Whirly said:

    Anyone would happen to know the fuselage external height and width of the ATR series?

    Hi, Whirly.

    I have some factory drawing. They aren't with full dimensions, but quite useful for you pourpose.

    P.M. me your email and I'll send them.

    Ciao

    Eugenio


  10. 1 hour ago, giemme said:

    Hi Euge, thanks for joining! :thumbsup: I suggest you stay lighter for dinner, so that you spare yourself from those nightmares :rofl: 

    OK, Giorgio "keine Gulaschsuppe" for dinner.

     

    Looking at the profile you posted, I see that the nose seems to be pointed downwards. That makes me doubt about, since from the photos I see it is not. I hope that the kit parts are OK. May be is worth checking. (Just had a sandwich for lunch)

     

    Bye

    Eugenio

    • Haha 1

  11. 10 hours ago, giemme said:

    Since my daughter is actually participating into the build, it will be mainly OOB,

    :hmmm:I had a premonitory dream last night: I saw you scratchbuilding the intake ducts for the Skyray, as your daughter was sleeping. When she asked you what were those things, you told her they were hidden in the box and not seen before.

    Enjoy your build, Giorgio

     

    Eugenio

    • Like 2
    • Haha 7

  12. Hi, Paul.

    You are going to do something very special.

    I'll follow with interest your job, as I am an enthusiast of those old Aurora kits. I don't have anyone, though. 😪

    There is a hope about an Aero Commander 520 due to come in this year by Croco Model, according to scalemates.com.

    Awaiting for updates.

    Bye

    Eugenio


  13. 11 minutes ago, janneman36 said:

    @Eugenio Revell is pretty correct about the outer nacelle fairing..

    The last part of the fairing is in two parts, there is still some fairing on the flap itself.

    Not always good to see but the 1/100 drawing shows this and when you look at the picture of N6000V you can see it as well..

    I am familiar with your build and i found you a brave man  for doing it!!

     

     

    Cheers, Jan

    Ah yeah Jan, you're right! I forgot I had to build up the part sitting on the flap. Age acts as a memory rubber.

    Eugenio

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1

  14. I saw this thread some days ago, so I think I can be of some help, since I built a 1/72 DC-7C back in 2011. (Converted fron two Heller DC-6s and lot of scratchbuilt)

    Unfortunately due to Photobucket issues I have no more pics on line, but from the back up I upload one photo of the finished model where you can see how the flaps system is.

    65629b40-c2ba-436a-b294-40220340afe5.jpg

     

    In this link, you find some interesting details.

    Some further notes:

    - the fairing you see under the wing are not the actuators: they cover the hinges and the actuators are inside the wing

    - there is a little flap over and rigidly linked to the main one that disappears into the wing at "zero flap". Here how it works

    - as you see in the drawing posted by Space Ranger, the flap sections are 4, and those short in the constant-chord-section partially retract under the wing-to body-fairing

    Something more to note: both in the Alitalia DC-7C and in the Airliners.net photos, is visible that the outer engine nacelle protrudes a litlle over the flap, but it doesn't move with it.

    It seems that Revell overdid this detail, and in the real thing, this protrusion in far shorter.

    So that's it. If you need some further information, please ask and I'll rummage in the backup photos.

    Regards

    Eugenio

    PS. Sorry if my technical english is not so correct. Hope you have got the point.

     

    • Like 7
    • Thanks 1

  15. To find two 3 blades propellers of the proper size, you can look for a Revell (ex Matchbox) 1/72 DO 28 Skyservant.
    Both propellers are by Hartzell.
    DOVE: HC-3MVK-2A
    DO 28: HC-3MVK-2C; no size difference.
    It sholud easy to find a cheap second (or third) hand DO 28, not really a best seller.
    Anyway I seem to recall that there is also a full resin Dove Riley kit, perhaps by Magna, but have no idea of its quality.

     

    At this point I don't know if our friend Tony is still interested in this topic, since more than two months are gone, but perhaps for general knowledge...

    Best regards

    Eugenio


  16. 15 hours ago, Work In Progress said:

    While the diameter may not have changed much, the rotation is opposite. On the standard aeroplane, when you're standing in front of it, the props turn anticlockwise, as with the props of most British, French and Russian-designed aero engines. On the Riley with its Lycoming engines rotation is in the standard US direction, clockwise as viewed from the front.

    Hi, W.i.P.

    I'm afraid things are just opposite.
    Take a look to this pics. Just wanted to prevent possible mistakes.

    Best regards

    Converted Dove - Original Dove (don't know why, but you need to right click and open in another window, by me at least)

    Eugenio

     

    • Like 2

  17. You are Welcome, Giorgio.

    Perhaps I had to be more specific.
    The mass balances, fixed to the trim tab, make easier to move the tab itself.
    The tab movement generate the aerodynamic force that move the aileron, so for example:
    - the control bar moves the trim tab (say) upwards and the trim tab moves the aileron downwards.
    The tabs act as servo-actuator for the ailerons.
    Those tabs are present only on the upper part of the aileron and iirc the Manual says that the airbrake function of the split ailerons is deactivated in “manual reversion”.

    Bye

    Eugenio

    • Thanks 1

  18. Great, Giorgio!

    What can I add to all the good comments you have already got?

    The quality of your models is not a surprise.

    If my count is correct in the photo n. 15 there is the signature of an artist: the control bar is slightly deflectet to the left, according with the movable parts position.

     

    Happy new modeling year.

    Eugenio

    • Thanks 1

  19. On 4/12/2017 at 5:55 PM, giemme said:

     

    these are the Savoia emblems, needed to complete the tail crosses, and the red alignment arrows used for the variable incidence tail planes. Thanks Euge! :thumbsup:

     

    You are welcome, Giorgio.

    It's a pleasure to be of any help in this magnificent build and thanks to you for having quoted me.

    But more than this, as many other, I'm very grateful to you for the nice work you are showing us :clap:and for taking time to post it.

    Bye

    Euge

    • Like 3
    • Thanks 1

  20. Sorry, Giorgio,

    for having been away for so long - some health and job problems, but it is all sorted now.
    First of all, my congratulation for the progress on the 205.
    As regards the ailerons, I'd pin them on the wing, without glueing them. So you'll have the parts in place for painting and at the end you'll assemble the painted parts together.
    I'll stay tuned, of course.

    Best regards

    Eugenio

    • Like 1
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