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Everything posted by 72linerlover

  1. Hi Paul. Not sure about the painting, so I let other experts explain. I just wanted to bring your attention on the position of the air conditioner inlet, under the belly. The Heller instruction tell to glue it on the left side, but this is wrong: just place it on the riglt side. See this pic. Good luck with your build. Eugenio
  2. Hi, Mike. I think your diagram is right. Look here. If you look closely along the central frame, specialy on top of it, you'll notice the kink. Click on the "Enlarge Image" below the pic. I had that impression seeing a 206 live some years ago, but didn't ivestigate. That's a big challenge for a modeler! Best regards Eugenio
  3. Hi Admiral. Could this be what you're looking for? https://designer.home.xs4all.nl/models/f27/f27mod.htm Bye Eugenio
  4. Hi, there. Do you mean something like that? The images are mine and royalty free. Bye Eugenio
  5. Oh, come on, Silvano: be serious. I've nothing to teach you, nor I had. Ciao
  6. Silvano, this time you've gone beyond yourself. Well, difficult to tell which of your models is the best, but i'm quite sure to say that this one is a step forward the others. Congrats Eugenio
  7. Hi, Lord Riot. It is nice to see a "Seven Seas" coming along. I have investigated this Old Lady when I built one in 1/72nd scale. I have noticed that in the Roden kit, both ailerons have three trim tabs. Actually the left one has, but the right one only two. It is just a little correction with some putty. In the following pic you notice the difference. Keep the nice work up. Best regards Eugenio.
  8. Wow! The Fox and the Cat at work together. A single plan that works is better than a hundred doubtful plans. (Rohini Chowdhury) Top modeling in northern Italy. Happy Phase 2. Eugenio
  9. Hi, Silvano. Beautiful job. So another time you're fighting with something that has propellers, or at least something rotating outside the airframe. When I first saw that big stick in the rotor shaft place, I thought you were going to put it on a barbecue. Just kidding. You're really making a masterpiece! Who would expect something different? Ciao Stay healthy - stay home Eugenio
  10. Hi, Giorgio. Glad that you're doing well. When we had a phone call middle march, I felt you weren't in your usual spirit, so I suspected... but the Corona was away from you. Well, now it's over, but take the maximum care of you so that your temporary weakness doesn't compromise things. Eugenio
  11. Hi, Buzz. Since your question has already more than 70 views and no answer, I' try to share my thoughts. For me it is impossible to print in white, at least in home printing. There are some producers as parkes682 decals https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/forum/131-parkes682decals/ that perhaps is useful to contact. But, if you are in the know of the exact rgb or cmyk code of the blue, I would go for a sort of "negative printing": it is possible to print a blue rectangle on a transparent decal paper and letting the lettering clear. If you shoot the white on the area, yo
  12. Ok, ianwau. I need some time to organize information in a decent way. Sadly me too, because the items are interesting, but awfully done, at least at the cost they require. Regards Eugenio
  13. Hi, ianwau. I discovered your thread some days ago, but I find time to replay only now. First of all: congratulation for your approach to this difficult build. I have in the stash the same kit since 2014 that a friend of mine brought me directly form France. I wrote some notes about the surgery needed in order to get a decent model and the last sentence was: "I don't see any alternative to build a new wing and adapt the engines nacelles on". And to make new wings I thought to a wooden core with thin plasticard glued on. Unfortunately the airfoil (and the cons
  14. Hi, Gooney Fan. Unfortunately I missed to buy a correction set for the Superconstellation too. Of course my hope is that Paul will be able to resume production, more for him than for me. Anyway the site is still up, except for the shopping cart. At this link you can find three images of the tip tanks. They are so nice that you can use as reference for scratcbuilding them. As you see, the most evident difference is in the lenght, so that the correct tank results more slim. (I can guess the diameter is almost correct) At this other link there is a quite reli
  15. Hi, Steve. Glad that the Mr. Surfacer worked on the grills. Stellar job on those details. I've just found something about the pylons. Not sure, though, if pertinent with your specific aircraft type. Link1 Link2 Link3 Link4 Le last one leads you to a thread of RC models. Just scroll down almost at the end of the page, look at image on the right. Best regards Eugenio
  16. Hi Steve. In case of so small stuff, I use some enamel paint or Mr. Surfacer. Just let evaporate a while before applying. Always following with great interest your progress. Regards Eugenio
  17. Hi, Fritag. For my resin masters I used a cheap "Prochima" 1:1 resin and I was simply lucky waiting only two or three days. Never done before, but perhaps a gentle buffing with a rubbing alcohol dumped cloth could help. Or simply with water and soap. About the final thickness after forming, I'll tell you that I use plunge forming, without vacuum and hold the clear plastic by two side clamps. This way you get an almost constant thickness. Ok, not very scientific or industrial, but I'm happy with that. I seem to remember to have done this way working with Silvano anh his Chipmunk to
  18. Hi, Fritag, welcome back from me too. I remember exactly what you did for the Chipmunk canopy. Don't worry about the withstand of the resin under the heat solicitation during thermoforming, if the master is really totally catalysed. If you noticed in the past some effect on the clear plastic, it was probably due to some release of the "polyol" of the resin that did not truly mix with the catalyzer. So let the master set for a pair of days, be gentle with plastic heating and quick in forming. Make sure you put (glue) the master on a flat surface only some millimeter narrower as its c
  19. Good morning. The 707 family is probably one of the most complicated among airliners. Let's make it clear. Our friend has two 1/72 707, so 1/144 is out of discussion. The Heller kit is a long body one, a -300B series. With the introduction of RR engines, -400 means RR engines, so -430 is the RR Long body, but only corresponding to the 320 with Pratt&Witney JT-4A. Please note: only 320 and not -320B or -320C. Lufthansa had four 707-430 ( D-ABOG, D-ABOC, D-ABOD, D-ABOF) BOAC had ten 707-430, actually designated 707-436 (G-APFF, G-APFH, G-APFI, G-APFJ, G-
  20. Hi, Neil.

    I don't wanted to write this in the thread, but I am afraid that there is a wrong picture in your post of last Sunday (#57).

    The first image refers to the DC-7B and there is quite visible the central plug for the wing extension. As far as I know it is only for the DC-7C. This could be misleading.

    Congratulations on your project from a modeler that knows how challenging is to convert a 6B into a 7C.



  21. Oh God! So much expensive are 1/144 injected kits here in Europe? I build in 1/72 and had no idea about. The site asked for less than 20$. Anyway, also on another forum, the Minicraft JT3Ds aren't considered good and many suggest Revell. Good luck for your projects. Euge
  22. Hi, Björn. The Minicraft website lists an E-3 NATO Standard and a C-18A USAF NATO. They have both JT3D engines and cost less than aftermarket engines sets. Also Authentic Airliners offers JT3Ds, but it is the long "hush kit" version, not suitable for the 720B. Another way could be to ask Roden if they want to sell you the JT3Ds of their 720B. They are just two little sprues. Best regards Eugenio
  23. The emitted light has to be green. If the outer lens seems to be blue, it may be due to a choice to mitigate the yellow effect of the filament bulbs, thus making a green emission in combination with blue. Regards Eugenio
  24. Hi, Whirly. I have some factory drawing. They aren't with full dimensions, but quite useful for you pourpose. P.M. me your email and I'll send them. Ciao Eugenio
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