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72linerlover

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Everything posted by 72linerlover

  1. Hi, Gooney Fan. Unfortunately I missed to buy a correction set for the Superconstellation too. Of course my hope is that Paul will be able to resume production, more for him than for me. Anyway the site is still up, except for the shopping cart. At this link you can find three images of the tip tanks. They are so nice that you can use as reference for scratcbuilding them. As you see, the most evident difference is in the lenght, so that the correct tank results more slim. (I can guess the diameter is almost correct) At this other link there is a quite reliable drawing that can give you an idea. Hope this helps. Best regards Eugenio
  2. Hi, Steve. Glad that the Mr. Surfacer worked on the grills. Stellar job on those details. I've just found something about the pylons. Not sure, though, if pertinent with your specific aircraft type. Link1 Link2 Link3 Link4 Le last one leads you to a thread of RC models. Just scroll down almost at the end of the page, look at image on the right. Best regards Eugenio
  3. Hi Steve. In case of so small stuff, I use some enamel paint or Mr. Surfacer. Just let evaporate a while before applying. Always following with great interest your progress. Regards Eugenio
  4. Hi, Fritag. For my resin masters I used a cheap "Prochima" 1:1 resin and I was simply lucky waiting only two or three days. Never done before, but perhaps a gentle buffing with a rubbing alcohol dumped cloth could help. Or simply with water and soap. About the final thickness after forming, I'll tell you that I use plunge forming, without vacuum and hold the clear plastic by two side clamps. This way you get an almost constant thickness. Ok, not very scientific or industrial, but I'm happy with that. I seem to remember to have done this way working with Silvano anh his Chipmunk too. Cheers Eugenio
  5. Hi, Fritag, welcome back from me too. I remember exactly what you did for the Chipmunk canopy. Don't worry about the withstand of the resin under the heat solicitation during thermoforming, if the master is really totally catalysed. If you noticed in the past some effect on the clear plastic, it was probably due to some release of the "polyol" of the resin that did not truly mix with the catalyzer. So let the master set for a pair of days, be gentle with plastic heating and quick in forming. Make sure you put (glue) the master on a flat surface only some millimeter narrower as its contour. I mean something like this, even if here the master is in one piece with the support. This is important because, if you keep the master on top of a little rod, you may run the risk to bend it during thermoforming. Hope this helps. Bye Eugenio
  6. Good morning. The 707 family is probably one of the most complicated among airliners. Let's make it clear. Our friend has two 1/72 707, so 1/144 is out of discussion. The Heller kit is a long body one, a -300B series. With the introduction of RR engines, -400 means RR engines, so -430 is the RR Long body, but only corresponding to the 320 with Pratt&Witney JT-4A. Please note: only 320 and not -320B or -320C. Lufthansa had four 707-430 ( D-ABOG, D-ABOC, D-ABOD, D-ABOF) BOAC had ten 707-430, actually designated 707-436 (G-APFF, G-APFH, G-APFI, G-APFJ, G-APFK, G-APFL, G-APFM, G-APFN, G-APFO, G-APFP) Both Lunthansa and BOAC operated -300B and 300C (cargo) series, with Pratt&Witney JT-3D engines. Their designation was BOAC 707-336B/C, Lufthansa 707-330B/C, but this is another story. Now back to modelling, the wing plantform at the root of the -430 is closer, except for the dimensions, to the -120 (short body) series, but not impossible to achive from the -300B wing, if the Ha Hen instruction (that I don't know them) are correct. You'll also need to rescribe a very short section of the split flaps under the fillet at the root. I see a big challenge in rebuild the wing-to-body fairing, that, obviously is closer to the short body one and involves both the wing and the fuselage modifications. As a side note, just speaking of "side": unfortunately Heller misaligned the cockpit with the passengers' cabin windows. So, in a side view of the fuselage, you should see an ideal line running through the bottom of the pax windows hitting the lower end of the first frame of the cockpit. Take a look on the pics on the net and you'll get the point. The liveries of that time are merciless with misalignments. Sorry if I have been tedious, but I wanted to share with you the information I collected and hope they are right. Good luck, Tommo, with your build. Best regards. Eugenio
  7. Hi, Neil.

    I don't wanted to write this in the thread, but I am afraid that there is a wrong picture in your post of last Sunday (#57).

    The first image refers to the DC-7B and there is quite visible the central plug for the wing extension. As far as I know it is only for the DC-7C. This could be misleading.

    Congratulations on your project from a modeler that knows how challenging is to convert a 6B into a 7C.

    Regards

    Eugenio

  8. Oh God! So much expensive are 1/144 injected kits here in Europe? I build in 1/72 and had no idea about. The site asked for less than 20$. Anyway, also on another forum, the Minicraft JT3Ds aren't considered good and many suggest Revell. Good luck for your projects. Euge
  9. Hi, Björn. The Minicraft website lists an E-3 NATO Standard and a C-18A USAF NATO. They have both JT3D engines and cost less than aftermarket engines sets. Also Authentic Airliners offers JT3Ds, but it is the long "hush kit" version, not suitable for the 720B. Another way could be to ask Roden if they want to sell you the JT3Ds of their 720B. They are just two little sprues. Best regards Eugenio
  10. The emitted light has to be green. If the outer lens seems to be blue, it may be due to a choice to mitigate the yellow effect of the filament bulbs, thus making a green emission in combination with blue. Regards Eugenio
  11. Hi, Whirly. I have some factory drawing. They aren't with full dimensions, but quite useful for you pourpose. P.M. me your email and I'll send them. Ciao Eugenio
  12. OK, Giorgio "keine Gulaschsuppe" for dinner. Looking at the profile you posted, I see that the nose seems to be pointed downwards. That makes me doubt about, since from the photos I see it is not. I hope that the kit parts are OK. May be is worth checking. (Just had a sandwich for lunch) Bye Eugenio
  13. I had a premonitory dream last night: I saw you scratchbuilding the intake ducts for the Skyray, as your daughter was sleeping. When she asked you what were those things, you told her they were hidden in the box and not seen before. Enjoy your build, Giorgio Eugenio
  14. Hi Rob, Take a look to this picture too. The whole flap at the root is totally under the wing fairing and moves sliding back and down, perpendicular to the trailing edge. Here some pages you may find interesting. Bye Euge
  15. Hi, Paul. You are going to do something very special. I'll follow with interest your job, as I am an enthusiast of those old Aurora kits. I don't have anyone, though. There is a hope about an Aero Commander 520 due to come in this year by Croco Model, according to scalemates.com. Awaiting for updates. Bye Eugenio
  16. Ah yeah Jan, you're right! I forgot I had to build up the part sitting on the flap. Age acts as a memory rubber. Eugenio
  17. I saw this thread some days ago, so I think I can be of some help, since I built a 1/72 DC-7C back in 2011. (Converted fron two Heller DC-6s and lot of scratchbuilt) Unfortunately due to Photobucket issues I have no more pics on line, but from the back up I upload one photo of the finished model where you can see how the flaps system is. In this link, you find some interesting details. Some further notes: - the fairing you see under the wing are not the actuators: they cover the hinges and the actuators are inside the wing - there is a little flap over and rigidly linked to the main one that disappears into the wing at "zero flap". Here how it works - as you see in the drawing posted by Space Ranger, the flap sections are 4, and those short in the constant-chord-section partially retract under the wing-to body-fairing Something more to note: both in the Alitalia DC-7C and in the Airliners.net photos, is visible that the outer engine nacelle protrudes a litlle over the flap, but it doesn't move with it. It seems that Revell overdid this detail, and in the real thing, this protrusion in far shorter. So that's it. If you need some further information, please ask and I'll rummage in the backup photos. Regards Eugenio PS. Sorry if my technical english is not so correct. Hope you have got the point.
  18. To find two 3 blades propellers of the proper size, you can look for a Revell (ex Matchbox) 1/72 DO 28 Skyservant. Both propellers are by Hartzell. DOVE: HC-3MVK-2A DO 28: HC-3MVK-2C; no size difference. It sholud easy to find a cheap second (or third) hand DO 28, not really a best seller. Anyway I seem to recall that there is also a full resin Dove Riley kit, perhaps by Magna, but have no idea of its quality. At this point I don't know if our friend Tony is still interested in this topic, since more than two months are gone, but perhaps for general knowledge... Best regards Eugenio
  19. Hi, W.i.P. I'm afraid things are just opposite. Take a look to this pics. Just wanted to prevent possible mistakes. Best regards Converted Dove - Original Dove (don't know why, but you need to right click and open in another window, by me at least) Eugenio
  20. You are Welcome, Giorgio. Perhaps I had to be more specific. The mass balances, fixed to the trim tab, make easier to move the tab itself. The tab movement generate the aerodynamic force that move the aileron, so for example: - the control bar moves the trim tab (say) upwards and the trim tab moves the aileron downwards. The tabs act as servo-actuator for the ailerons. Those tabs are present only on the upper part of the aileron and iirc the Manual says that the airbrake function of the split ailerons is deactivated in “manual reversion”. Bye Eugenio
  21. Great progress there Giorgio. Always following with much interest, even if not much posting. Those mass balances are actually connected with the trim tabs. In the "manual reversion" (hydraulic failure) they are a big help to move the aileron. Bye Eugenio
  22. Great, Giorgio! What can I add to all the good comments you have already got? The quality of your models is not a surprise. If my count is correct in the photo n. 15 there is the signature of an artist: the control bar is slightly deflectet to the left, according with the movable parts position. Happy new modeling year. Eugenio
  23. You are welcome, Giorgio. It's a pleasure to be of any help in this magnificent build and thanks to you for having quoted me. But more than this, as many other, I'm very grateful to you for the nice work you are showing us and for taking time to post it. Bye Euge
  24. Sorry, Giorgio, for having been away for so long - some health and job problems, but it is all sorted now. First of all, my congratulation for the progress on the 205. As regards the ailerons, I'd pin them on the wing, without glueing them. So you'll have the parts in place for painting and at the end you'll assemble the painted parts together. I'll stay tuned, of course. Best regards Eugenio
  25. Giorgio, I run out my Thesaurus to comment your build. I'm experimenting a miniaturized transponder to put on every kit part . The finish you got simply makes justice to the camouflage. Bye Eugenio
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