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glueman

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About glueman

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    Fenlands

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  1. Hi everyone, Sorry for the long delays in this re-build of the Discovery. Life is getting into way again. Made some progress with the nozzles and engine block. I'm in the process of adding some extra panelling on the engine block as the surface is a bit too flat and boring for a kit of this size. Needs a bit more surface texture. I've also made a new circular 'disk' that will go at the end of the spine so that it is more in keeping with the 2001 version of the Discovery. Close up of the engine nozzles ... dry fit of the parts. When I fix them into position, they will all align up and touch each other side to side. I know they lack the surface detailing and are not 100% perfect ... but they are miles better (and more interesting) than the original nozzles. I took the plunge and bought a EVA pod from Shapeways. This pod is the smaller of the ones available at 17mm in diameter. Although it 'looks' the right size for the pod bay doors, I suspect it is still a tad too big for the pod bay. I've not yet made up my mind whether or not to open the pod bay doors HAL gg
  2. Thank you. Yes, I do appear to be replacing many old parts with new, scratch built parts hence the reluctance to splash out and buy the new Moebius kit. Would be interesting to tot up all the extra expense I've incurred so far on the build (e.g. new steel rod for the spine, Blue Stuff ... card ... glue ... and lights for the command module ... plus all the thinking time on how to actually do something). Regarding the Moebius kit ... they do say ... never say never. Look forward to hearing about your build. Pete
  3. glueman

    MOEBIUS MODELS 2001 DISCOVERY

    It's a bit of a challenge restoring the Luna Discovery ... but I'm getting there It doesn't make things any easier when the Moebius version is so much better. Looking forward to your build log. Pete
  4. Phew, been a while since I last posted. I have been working on the rebuild ... just very slowly. What am I doing now? Well ... I decided to have a go at making some new engine nozzles as the ones on the kit aren't really up to scratch. I did a bit of research on the net and found that the nozzles that come with the kit appear to be loosely based on the 2010 film version of the Discovery, not the original 2001 model. I wanted my rebuild to be more like the original 2001 version. At about this time ... and this always happens when you commit to doing some serious scratch building ... along comes a brand new kit which is an accurate representation of the original 2001 Discovery. I'm talking about the 1/144 kit by Moebius. Bit frustrating to say the least!! I've invested so much time, effort and money in my rebuild that I couldn't really justify splashing out on the Moebius kit ... never say never. I used the various images of this kit circulating on the net as reference for my scratch building. For example, this link shows the new engine block and nozzles: https://culttvman.com/main/moebius-models-2001-discovery-update/ First step .. find the right sort of shapes to make the new engine nozzles. Easier said than done. I did find a pen, more specifically parts of a pen, that looked the part and were the correct size. As I only had one part from one pen it was time to learn something new ... casting. I ended up used Blue Stuff to make the mould and filled the mould with fine grained Milliput. Had quite a few experiments that went horribly wrong but eventually got there and produced three good reproductions from the pen part. I learned some new techniques along the way ... like after making the bottom part of the mould, put it into the freezer for 30mins. This helps to prevent the top (and hotter Blue Stuff) sticking to the lower (cold) part. The next step was to build a section of the nozzle between the new milliput part and the bell-shaped end of the nozzle. I opted for a tapering hexagonal shaped part made from thin plastic card. I drew a template in PowerPoint, printed out the pattern and transferred the pattern to the plastic card. I wanted to have a plastic rod through the centre of the nozzle to make it easier to fit to the engine block. Building a new set of nozzles entailed scratching building the bell end shape of the nozzles plus all the detail that is often shown in photos. It was a case of finding the correct shaped bits of plastic card ... and lots of patience and a steady hand. The finished bell end shape of the nozzle. I'm pretty pleased with my efforts Using the reference photos as a guide I added some surface detail on the hexagonal shape parts. The bits that look like mini ladders were made from a section of plastic card with parallel lines scored every 1mm apart which is then sandwiched between two strips of card (0.5mm thick by 1mm wide) ... 6 in total for each engine nozzle ... 18 to make. I admit that it is not a 100% copy of the nozzles shown in the reference photos ... but compared to the original part (upper nozzle) I reckon it is miles better and much more of an interesting shape to look at. One down, two more to go.
  5. glueman

    2001 A Space Odyssey Orion

    Me too Mike ... love everything to do with 2001. I'm still (re)building the Discovery albeit rather slowly and the Space Station. Pete
  6. glueman

    Lego Saturn V

    Wow ... lucky lucky man. I was hoping to snag one of these for Christmas but didn't get one However ... I did get a Yoda space ship Lego kit ... and ... a 1/144 scale Bandai AT AT ... my first ever Star Wars kit Will be following this build Pete
  7. glueman

    how to Cast fuel barrels (easy)

    Hi Jack109, I'm about to venture into casting and I was wondering if you have managed to cast any parts yet. Did you encounter any problems or have tips/tricks you have come up with. I've bought some Blue Stuff but like you am wondering whether to use Milliput or Green Stuff for the medium. Thanks Pete
  8. glueman

    Cutting Small Tubes

    If I can add another tip to this great tip ... I found that I get the best results when I bend the tube very, very slowly. Pete
  9. Thank you Not had much time to add to the build ... sorry ... dreaded work has got in the way again. Hopefully I'll be able to post some more photos soon. Pete
  10. Hi everyone, Bit more action on this rebuild ... this time scratch building a new fuel pod as one was missing. I used the D type pod as a guide and used various pieces of plastic card for the body and for the surface detail. I wasn't aiming for an exact replica ... only a look-a-like. I'm pretty chuffed with my effort.
  11. Hi everyone, Looks like the photos have been disabled ... sorry. I'm in the process of uploading the photos onto Flickr and replacing the ones in the text. First one appears to work. May take a while. Thanks Pete
  12. Hi everyone, Been a bit absent recently with one thing and another ... but I'm still working on the rebuild of the Discovery. Bit of a slow job but I'll get there in the end. Still working on building the fuel pods along the spine. I'm building the pods "off-structure" as I think it is much easier to build and to paint the fuel pods when they are not attached. It's also easier to ensure they all align correctly. Here is one I made earlier. Those of you who have built the Discovery know that there are four combinations of pod parts ... i) one long pod; ii) two pods of same size; iii) one long and one short pod with the short pod facing to the command module and iv) one long and one short pod with the short pod towards the engine. In the instructions, there are no hints on how to secure these individual parts to the spine so the likelihood of the pods not being correctly aligned are pretty high. I decided to make my life easier and glue the individual parts onto a strip of plastic card 1mm thick by 4mm wide. This does make it a lot easier to attach the pods to the supporting hexagons and to align the fuel pods with each other. This photo is a close up of the fuel pods and the connectors between the pods. This is just a dry fit of the parts and not the final fitting. I'll most probably paint the individual parts before assembly. NB: Since taking this photo I have rebuilt all the 'connectors' using plastic tubing instead of the plastic pen covers. Although I used super glue to attach the plastic connecting rings to the pen covers, the bond was a bit on the weak side and didn't stand up to the man-handing of the connector onto and off the spine.
  13. glueman

    General question about lighting

    Hi Warren, Many thanks!!! I received the kit ... and very nice it is too. I've got a simple battery box with an on-off switch. I've included a couple of photos below to show the lights. Two questions ... i) If I only want to use the blue LEDs can I simply cut the wires to the other lights to disconnect them? ii) The instructions say that 2 AA batteries are required. Could I power the blue LEDs only using a series of button sized batteries of the same voltage? The battery box is just a tad too big to fit inside the command module. Many thanks Pete
  14. Thank you for looking. Not to worry ... I haven't done much on the rebuild recently ... been out and about in the sunshine. Cheers Pete
  15. I'm still making parts for the spine ... when will this end?? This time I'm making the ribbed sections at the connector rings between the fuel pods. I couldn't salvage these from the original kit so I've ended up making new ones. I ended up using lids from felt tip pens cut to the right length (ca. 5mm). At first I tried to use a fine razor saw and a mitre box to cut the lids but couldn't obtain a nice clean cut. After searching the net I came upon this method that uses a power drill. i) Switch the power drill to 'unscrew' (or clockwise when viewed from the front) and clamp the felt pen lid in the drill. ii) Use a brand new scalpel blade and rest the blade on the lid at the required distance. My drill had a flat end so I could use that as a guide to keep the blade vertical. iii) switch on the drill and apply slow speed at first to create a grove. iv) Increase the speed of the drill and slowly increase the pressure of the blade against the plastic. Eventually the blade will cut through the plastic leaving a very clean cut.
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