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Everything posted by Stuck

  1. I agree with every thing Steve has said, you cannot beat Valejo for brush painting. One of the biggest mistakes you can make is not thin it enough. i used to use a lot of Humbrol and Revell enamel but i am going off this, one of the main reasons being is that if you go over it again after it is supposedly dry the thinners can dissolve the previous coat and cause a right mess.
  2. Good evening, The original seats were upholstered in black leather, I thought they would look a little bit less milateristic done in brown , so have brushed Vallejo model color. took ages !! The 2 sides of the body can now be glued together, and start getting it ready for painting. Thats all for now.
  3. Just put the offending jar in between the hanging edge and frame of a door against the stop, pull the door shut and turn the jar. Works every time !!.
  4. Great work, this build is taking me back on a time warp too, 1973, my newly married ex gave it me for Christmas, motorized as well. Finished it in 2 weeks, sod the painting just wanted to see it go across the floor, which it did a few times before falling apart. the figures too, those are a 50 plus year warp.
  5. Im sure there is a few here that would like to put this together !! http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tamiya-300016041-Harley-Davidson-FLSTFB-Motorr%C3%A4der/dp/B00F04Y6BA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_k_h_b_cs_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QQCGPG16NRDEMMZEMW4#customerReviews
  6. Coincidentally I was in the middle of looking for some myself when i read this,. Are these any good? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Quality-Hollow-Wire-Pin-Drill-Vice-ideal-for-Model-Making-Jewellery-etc-/171226120993?pt=UK_Crafts_JewelleryMaking_GL&hash=item27dddf4321
  7. Just lately I have been using a lot Vallejo model color, so impressed with the brushed finish that can be obtained with these paints that i am now thinking of trying their model air range. What i would like to know is do the 2 color ranges correspond with each other, and how does the finish compare with Tamiya that I do the majority of my acrylic airbrushing with at the moment Cheers Mike
  8. Haveing looked again at their site must admit I got a bit confused with those they sell in magazine form, starting off in good faith but after a few issues finding out that you will have to pay a fortune to finish the thing.
  9. £1200,!! ? , my real car isnt even worth that
  10. I have had an H&S evolution fps for nearly 6yrs now, apart from haveing to replace a couple of nozzles it has given me sterling service, The FPS can be very useful.
  11. Looking closely at pics of this car the fenders are gloss black,but it looks as if the running boards are more mat, so I have painted them the same, I just wish I could find a good method of doing the chrome, have tried it with vallejo liquid silver but not to happy with the finish Rear axle unit fitted The door lineings have pistol holsters engraved in them , but I am doing away with these with the help of some miliput
  12. I cannot quite understand where the design team and engineers are coming from at ICM . While the fit of most of the tiny parts is Tamiya standard, the fit of the wheels is diabolical , the rear ones fit onto a barely 2mm long stub on the end of the axle, but the connecting hole is well over size so much that it cannot even be dry fitted. A better man than me would drill the axle out and fit a brass rod, or something like that, but I am going to leave them off until the model is completed and hope the can support the weight of the model if glued with a good dose of araldite. It does not show clearly on the instructions as how they are supposed to go together, after an afternoon trying to get my head round it I started sanding the drums with them fitted into a cordless drill so they would fit into the hubs as I assumed, only to find afterwards that they should be proud. Any of you who wants to make this please be warned. The chrome hub caps are fitted from the inside, I made a right mess of one when the capilary action of the cement went right through to the outside and messed up the paintwork so it will have to be redone.
  13. I started off with the engine, I would have liked to have added a little extra detail ,but couldnt find too many pics on the net, and as already said I am no expert; Well at least it looks something like an engine to me, I have painted it with alclad and vallejo model color black. The chassis and fenders have been moulded in one piece, which caused a bit of head scratching about how to go about painting it, so I decided to do the bodywork finish first then mask it up , and go over the rest with Tamiya nato black and pick out the chassis brushing vallejo The sub assemblies that go together to make the rear axle unit
  14. Hi there, A few months ago I started losing my mojo a bit with wingy things, so i found a car kit that I brought very cheaply a few years ago, a 1/24 Hasegawa Lamborgini Mura, within 5 minutes of starting it I was hooked, and although never being a car freak in any way, I had entered the dark side, and before too long was scouring the net for my next project. Looking through the fairly comprehensive range of 1/24 cars that my usual supplier had to offer I just kept on coming back to this model I dont know why, just something about it that I found attractive and interesting. Unfortunately the car has a bit of an infamous history as it was the chosen staff car of Hitler and his cronies, and very few survived the war, but it got me thinking if it was painted some other colour than the drab RLM grey and do away with a few other nasties then this could become a very attractive car. So I hope you enjoy watching what happens, as already mentioned I am no auto expert, so all help and advise will be much appreciated. The box is jam pack full with parts,some of the mouldings have got some quite exquisite detail on them. But the instructions seem to have been drawn by a spider after a night on the tiles, certainly give Revell ones a run for their money I had an idea in my head for the colour scheme of either dark green or blue and creamy beige or off white, I did try some Tamiya pearl white against their dark blue but it wasn't quite what I was after, while looking in a DIY store I came across an aerosol of the cream I was after, so before there would be any tears on my model checked it out on a plastic bottle first., being new to airbrushing lacquers I always check them out first, god job I did, look what happens when its sprayed on top of humbrol enamel
  15. Only one word to describe that, the same one used for a pretty lady, beautiful !!
  16. Looking good, and the open fire, love it!!
  17. Thankyou for that Kalliste, All the oven cleaners here seem to be in aerosols, but I found some cleaner for glass on stoves which seemed to contain that chemical. Well after a week and Christmas studying a jam jug full of parts as if it was a preserved rat , the chrome has now finally dissapeared. But I now have more problems,, While cleaning the parts I noticed on very close inspection there is a gossamer thin layer of gloss left, which is breaking away in some places, and the solution doesnt seem to want to shift this. I was already to start priming but I fear Alclads are just going to play havoc with this until the tiniest speck is cleaned off. So I am just about at my wits end with this,please has any of you any ideas.
  18. By the time i have shifted this chrome my kitchen will be looking like a chemistry lab
  19. The kit is made by ICM, perhaps they chrome things differently in the Ukraine. I will be going to the supermarket tomorrow but I have not seen anything on the shelf that vaguely translates to Mr Muscle here in France, and I have to be careful what I get because some of these French cleaners can be a bit powerful and aggressive Might just stick it out with the bleach , its coming off very slowly.
  20. Changeing the subject a bit and going back to the original subject , I have now had the chrome parts for my project immersed in a sealed jam jar of bleach for now 48hrs and it has still only half shifted it, so I am going to try the coke trick tonight, i have only one can in the house and that is zero, I am not quite sure, if this will affect its performance. I just only hope that this works,have already tried the ammonia with no affect and if this doesnt I will have wasted a perfectly good drink and will have to resort to a sand blaster. :popcorn:
  21. There must be 101 products in any household which could cause toddlers harm, and after following this thread I would put coca cola amongst them
  22. Well this might be teaching some of you how to suck eggs, but I saw somewhere on the world wide net ( dont think it was here ) about mixing baking powder with super glue,so the other day i gave it a try; not on a model, but to help solve a little problem. I wanted to decant some supermarket rattle can into a jar but there was no ridge around the nozzle that i could fit a drinking straw over, so I just spot superglued the straw over it and when that was dry went around the seam with a liberal helping of super glue and then sprinkled the baking powder over it, the glue dried rock hard as soon as the powder touched it, afterwards i removed the straw and now I have a perfect insert to fit other straws into. I cant see why this wouldnt work for filling seams, ill fitting wing joints etc, just fill the gap with superglue and sprinkle the powder over it. Dont take my word for it and try it on a bit of scrap first. Just for the record, i use the cheapest super glue i can find. The secret seems to be is put the slightest possible amount on the part to be glued, the more there is the longer it takes to dry.
  23. While on the subject, what happened to Vim, harpic, and all those other wonderful cleaning products ,my mums cupboard was full of them, never did me any harm,. Mind you I seem to have had more sense when I was a kid. Nothing cleans my tiled kitchen floor like bleach, and its as cheap as chips
  24. Dont know if Mike was talking about just coke there, but its bleach as well. I know this from bitter experience trying to clean a tiled floor a few years ago, it was like being hit in the face by a cannon, very lucky to be here now, just on inhalers for the rest of my life. On my last kit I put the parts in ammonia and it had shifted all the chrome in 5 minutes, on the present one i am working on, I have tried ammonia and it will not touch the chrome, so I have had the parts in bleach over night and its only just starting to shift it
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