Stuck
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Posts posted by Stuck
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After struggling with their Mercedes G 4 I just hope they have got the wheels to fit !!
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Do you want a list ?,
Morris 8
Morris Minor, all versions,
Ford Thames Trader van
50s Ford Pop, van as well,
Austin Agro estate,
And Ebro while your at a Renault Express, and Kangoo,
All in1/24
All these i can somehow relate to along my rocky route of life,. got to admit it ,ive got taste !!
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A little bit of progress has been made during the week, I have decided to make the covered version and go for a canvas colored hood, so have used Tamiya desert yellow.
Painting the dashboard was not one of my finest hours, fortunately it wont be seen too much
This is the first time that I have used Alclad chrome, and although it can give a fantastic finish I am quickly learning just how fragile it is. The problem is there is hell of a lot of it on this model , and it seems I have accidentally worn a bit off the trim; so I think from now on i am going to handle the model with a pair of gloves I brought years ago for developing slide film, here is some of the damage.
I would like to give the radiator a black wash, but because of the fragilaty of the chrome I think it is left as it is
The model is nearly finished now, just loads of sticky out bits to do, if they all survive to completion then it will be a miracle!!
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I have been using quite a lot of alclad chrome on my current project. There certainly seems an art to master with using this, but am slowly getting the hang of it. However the finish seems very fragile, and have already found that it will disintegrate if gone over with lacquer based clear coat, and you cant even touch it with polishing compound.. Having just done the radiator i feel that it would look better with a black wash to bring out the detail, but am a bit hesitant to touch it with anything,
Have any of you ideas how to go about this safely?
Cheers Mike
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That is what i always use, i brought 50 five years ago and have still a lot left. I have watched so many vidios where they just add the paint and thinners in the cup and just give it a quick wind with a cocktail stick or brush,I dont think this gives a proper dispersal of paint with the thinners because it cant get right down to the air brush stem, doing it with a pipette does a lot better job in my opinion. i always keep a clean one for thinners.
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Surly the thinning ratio will depend on what size needle and nozzle you are using. I do not have any hard and fast rules. when using tamiya I prefer to spray on the thin side and go well over the 50/50 recommendation. i do not use a stirrer when mixing with thinners instead i add first the thinners to the cup with a clean paint dropper and then with another I add the color I then squirt it in and out of the dropper a few times which i think does a far better job of mixing than stirring with a brush or something similar,
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The issue with cleaning the brushes afterwards can be avoided by using a special "brush" called a "shaper" (I think). Any decent art supply store should carry them. Basically, instead of bristles, the end of the brush is a wedge-shaped rubber tip. They come in various sizes. The advantage of them when using Maskol or any similar product is that all you need to do to "clean" them is to peel the material off the end of the brush when it dries.
From time to time sets of these are available in LIdl very cheaply, they have no end of uses in modeling as well as applying maskol
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Thankyou Shaun, how right you are !
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Well that has surprised me Shaun because the last thing I would have suspected causing the problem was the Tamiya tape which I always swore by. I am just about to start some more masking so I will try with an old role I have of another brand, and see what happens. Can you tell me where you get the fastrax from please.
Mike
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I have been using some supermarket lacquer based aerosol decanted clear coat over Tamiya and other lacquer based paints and it gives a superb high gloss finish. However after masking some areas i found on removal of the tape it is leaving marks which can only be rectified with a lot of cutting back. I left the clear coat 4 days to cure before masking, I am left wondering if this is long enough, or is there some chemical reaction going on ?. The masking tape I am using is Tamiya.
i have been looking into using Zero 2 pack, but having experienced spraying stuff like that on furniture many years ago I am a bit reluctant.
Have any of you any thoughts on this, or recommend an alternative product ?.
Cheers Mike
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Very neat and tidy work, I love the velour effect on the seats, ( I presume thats what its supposed to be ! ). has put me off painting anything yellow, hope you can put it right.
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Have this firm got a French connection ?
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Any of you contemplating making this model should be aware of a few things, one of them is that the recessed door lines in the body work are very shallow,and with hindsight I wish I had scribed them a bit deeper before starting the paintwork, as it is now they are barely visable and are hardly deep enough for a pin wash, so i think I will have to live and let live.
Another lesson I have learn t using lacquers is to spend a little more time and attention cleaning the airbrush out. Laying on the final clear coat splattered a little of the blue I had previously sprayed. Wont let that happen again!!
I am now trying to decide whether to have the open or closed option, think I will go with the latter wont look quite so
esqe !!Thats all for now, got to try and tidy up the running boards before I can fix the bodywork down.
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My Vallejo model air finally arrived today, I tried a bit little through the airbrush and i am quite impressed i particularly liked the finish the aluminum gave.. On their website they have a very useful fact sheet PDF download all about their products. It states that there is no reason why you cant spray model colour but warns that some of them have pretty nasty pigments in them , ie, cadmium,.. Hats off to Vallejo for going to the trouble to give all this info , I wish Tamiya would take a leaf out of their book and do the same.
From what i have read here I dont think I will be bothering with their primer, but carry on with trusted Tamiya, but it just annoys me that you have to buy it in aerosols and then decant it.
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Wonderful workmanship and patience!!.
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My advice would be to test every new primer paint or finish you try on a scrap plastic bottle or something like that with all the other products you intend useing on your project. In this way you will save a lot of tears and heartache on your prize model.
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I did mine the Brett Green way , cutting paper the shape of the camo, and sticking it in place with little blobs of blue tack, this way you dont get a dead sharp line which would be more in keeping with the original
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Very nice, well done.
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Please dont take my word as gospel, but I have found that washes useing normal white spirit will have no effect on klear or acrylic paint finishes and as long as you dont go overboard you can safely use them.. But it will loosen enamel finishes and spirit based varnishes ie humbrol, , have also found that it will loosen Alclad klear kotes. so as long as you seal everything with klear you wont go far wrong
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Did you ever go to the original little shop in the town center? , was impossible to walk out of that place with just what you went for!!.
Yes i do agree with you with the jaws being a bit small but you could modify them with little bits of wood. round parts will always be a problem, best to use two and span the part with some stiff material.
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Being a woodworker by trade I have a whole range of clamps in the workshop, most too big for model making. Personally I dont like the spring clamps because you can never quite get the right amount of pressure, too little or too much resulting in crushing the work. Recently I dug out one of these I have had for years,which works like a conventional sash cramp enabling you to exert just the right amount of pressure,, beautifully made as well.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/pair-of-japanese-hatakane-brass-bar-cramps
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Seriously though, i use the door method as a final straw. I never have problem with Tamiya and other acrylics because I use an eye dropper to load the air brush. But its the bottles of Alclad etc that really stick. i have now found that wiping a minute amount of washing up liquid around the thread solves the problem..
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Way back in about 1970 i built a very large model of the Mayflower by Revell,for the time it seemed like a very impressive kit, everything seemed to fit perfectly if memory serves me well and it was a very enjoyable build. Recently I came across one marketed by Trumpeteer. would this be the same model ?. It was far bigger than the one Revell have now in their catalog,
cheers Mike
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Well thanks for the advise, the best thing is to try a bit, so i have just put an order in with an internet supplier who i thought was French but have turned out to be based in Spain, very cheap as well,, 1,80€ a bottle, far less than what i am paying for Tamiya here and nearly twice the amount, i have ordered some metallic as well, see what that works like.
http://www.bellesartsferran.com/shop/index.php?cPath=172_175
Also i would like to try their primer but am not sure how it will react to Lacquers, any ideas?
Cheers Mike
esqe !!
What would be your 'Dream' CAR OR BIKE kit'?
in Vehicle Discussion
Posted
Oops, missed the one choice only , Morris Minor estate , and if its in big scale then with real wood (ash), but i would never be able to afford it.