Stuck
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Posts posted by Stuck
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I take my hat off to anyone who can spend over a year on a model and keep on going, it is truly inspirational stuff !!, well done it is incredible.
The true spirit of model making !!
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Just this evening by sheer mistake I found while cleaning a clear part on my current build with a Lidl optical wipe it removed the vallejo paint which had been on there for over a fortnight, havnt tried it on anything else yet but worth a go.
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I have no desire what so ever to remove my parts, the thought of a razor saw sends shivers down my spine
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I have had the same problems. It was suggested on another thread I started that it was a problem with the Tamiya tape I was using, so i did a few experiments with other tapes t. The only one that didnt leave marks was the remainder of a roll that is a few years old and the brand name escapes me, I tried these of over clear coat that had dried for over a fortnight. The forum member recommended Fastrax tape which he hasn't had any probs with, so I have just ordered a roll off Ebay.
http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234975817-varnish-problems/
The heating method sounds a bit dodgy. Try polishing with a cutting compound. it will remove it.
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I often refer back to this thread, not just because its a superb model, but I love The Move
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Incredible workmanship, well done!!
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Paul can I say how clear and concise your vids are some of the best I have seen on Utube covering the subject of airbrushing. Half the reason I started this thread.http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234978474-utube/
Thankyou.
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Well azureglo that is an impressive array of airbrushes you have there.
The reason I started this post was not just to seek advice, but from my mistakes beginners could avoid them, and asking the question is there any place for .15 nozzle in general modeling. I made a stupid mistake with cross contamination , I wont be the first and I certainly wont be the last.
Just for the record I spent many years making and finishing bespoke furniture and kitchens with cellulose lacquers , and went through galleons of the stuff. I have realized that there is not much difference in laying a clear coat down on a 6ft dresser and a 1/24 model car, the one is just a bit smaller. I use cheap supermarket cellulose thinners, and have had absolutely no problems with it at all and even thin Tamiya acrylics with it. Workshop hygiene is second nature to me.
I am taking the plunge and am going to afford myself the luxury of a second airbrush purely for lacquers and primers, after a lot of research and because my old workshop spray gun was only single action I have decided to get a Paache H, and keep my evolution for detail work. Call me a fool if you like.
Ramble over.
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Well I did rather hastily use the fine nozzle yesterday to try it with lacquers, I should have know better not to clean it thoroughly first because previous to that I had been useing it for acrylics. I have found that using acrylics after lacquer is OK, but vise versa unless fully cleaned is courting disaster,Silly me I will pay the price with Paul later in the week !!.
In an ideal world I would like a second Evolution, one for each, even better a third just for clearcoat,like many no doubt have had their lovely gloss finish ruined by tiny specks of metalic !!
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What tools and cleaners are you using to maintain the brush?
Yes, the 0.15mm air cap fits the 0.2mm needle and nozzle set.
The exchange rate is good for people in the UK buying from europe, but not so good for people in europe buying from the UK
For referance Needle & nozzle to europe should be £3.50 when ordered on the web site.
Paul
I usualy soak my blocked nozzles in cellulose thinners and after a while tap the flat end on a tile,it seems with the .15 that the gunk gets wedged right in the tip, I find that trying to ream it out only makes matters worse, so I have a very fine length copper wire that I gently thread through the pointed end which usualy pushes it out, yesterday I did this and as soon as it touched the nozzle it just cracked.
I have had my H&S evolution silverline for 6 years now, it fits my hand like a glove, and I swear by them. Well I can understand H& S thinking with 2 in one sets because it is not just us model makers using these brushes, but for most applications I find the .15 nothing but trouble maybe because the pigments of most model paints are just not fine enough to go through them successfully.
When I first started out with the brush I immediately went for the finer set up thinking this would give better results and disregarded the .4. I now find for most applications this one is best. So I would advise any beginners to start off with the .4 first with the brush to gain confidence with it.
Can i say what an excellent Utube video that was, the guy really knew what he was on about.
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Thanks for the quick response Paul, i havnt a clue how it split like it did, i am very careful cleaning them. what with the exchange rate as it is it is getting a bit prohibitive to buy in the UK, but even with that your price compares favorably with what i am being asked here. If the post on a small package like that is not going to cost an arm and a leg to France then i will put an order in with you for a .2 nozzle and needle, I presume it will fit the existing air cap.
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This morning while cleaning my H&S airbrush I cracked the .15 nozzle which miffed me a bit because I only brought a new one last year and have hardly used it. Now that I am spraying a lot of Lacquer based paints on vehicles i am finding the .4 nozzle give a good finish but that one has worn and needs replacing as well. These nozzles not being cheap I am wandering whether to give the .15 a miss altogether, it also needs a new needle. Would a .2 be a good compromise over the two, and also will it fit on my existing aircap.
Cheers Mike
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Thanks for a great review, on the strength of it went out and brought the kit and am not dissapointed. I am half way through the construction so far with no probs. However I am a bit worried about what you have pointed out about fitting the cab with the side windows fitted. Have already tried dry fitting the cab over the chassis and it is a bit of a fiddle without the windows in, so i dont know what it will be like when they are.
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The glasses are well worth the money for inspecting work if nothing else, looking through them its amazeing just how much paint residue can build up in the nozzle and how serrated the end can become. i have noticed that the first sign for replacement is with primer and a small blob drops out as soon as you start the flow. it could ruin detail work. i have just accidentally dropped my airbrush on the floor without the air cap on, i managed to rescue the nozzle with a little rub with wet and dry on the end, but I dont think its going to last much longer ..I see you can buy reamers to clean the nozzle , but i dont like the idea, I am sure they could damage them, They seem to become so thin with wear that even when replacing the needle pushing to hard could ruin them.
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Get yourself a pair of these,
Because the focusing distance is so small they are not much use for model making, but for inspecting nozzles you will be horrified by what you see !!
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A few years ago when getting back into the hobby i took Brett Greens advice about black being to stark so to mix it with red brown to give it a more scale effect, didnt look right to me one bit.
One of the reasons that I changed over to building vehicles rather than military aircraft was that I seemed to get too bogged down into painting the exact colours as given in the instructions and if i didn't follow the 25% of this 10 of that and 50 of that exactly then I would very soon have the scale police knocking on my door
. I now paint my models whatever colour tickles my fancy -
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i would go along with what Giorgio has already said, i have found in the past that these mixes that Revell,, Tamiya, etc suggest are not always correct anyway. But if you feel the need to then i would suggest that you mix a little extra and store it in a little container, i have found that my empty E juice containers are excellent for this.
On recomendation from a member of BM , I have found this app very useful,
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pulgadas.hobbycolorconverter&hl=en.
It is only my opinion but if the contrast of the different color schemes of camo etc look right to my eye then its near enough for me,and dont get bogged down with the constrictions of true scale color. the already well discussed topic of " what colour was that dress ? " has proved a big point.
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My heart goes out to you ruining all that hard work. i cannot speak for humbrol spray cans because I have never used them, but if its anything like the Tamiya clear rattle cans then they are lacquer based and most enamels and acrylics will react against them. I have read of so many disasters with this type of thing here just latley I just wish they would make it a bit more clear on the tins what they can be used for, or maybe a standard text included in the instructions of kits.
i hate to say it but if it were me I would bin the thing and start again, but I suppose with time and patience it could be rescued by stripping the paint, but i dont think sanding would work.
I court disaster by buying any cheap rattle cans I can find in Supermarkets etc, but i try every paint and finish I am going to use on a plastic bottle first, so I suggest you do this in the future. However I can understand just how angry you are after buying the same brand paints.
Hearing some of the complaints about Humbrol just lately I prefer to steer clear of the stuff.
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I am in the middle of painting an engine with Vallejo model air aluminum and have given the finish an oil pin wash with no ill effect. however it seems to take a while to fully harden.
Please dont take my word for it, and try it on a bit of scrap first.
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I am looking forward to seeing your progress with this, I would like to make one for my grandson ( fine excuse for myself ! )
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Before you go rushing into buying any of that you might like to take a look at this thread at some of the comments made about that stuff, starting from post 15. I had my bottle replaced by Paul but that was just the same, it never dried off.
http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/61744-alclad-klear-kote-gloss-120ml/
Tim.
Tim.
I have just had the drying problem with Alclad klear kote matte , this has put me off the stuff a bit.
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Thanks for your advise, I have just taken delivery of some Alclad Aqua gloss, and am very pleased with the finish over the chrome.
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i have just tried some Vallejo matt and am very pleased with the finish; If you want a really dead matt acrylic varnish the try Pebeo.
:guitar: 
. I now paint my models whatever colour tickles my fancy 
1:90 Stantisima Trinidad & X-Section by DeAgostini
in Work in Progress - Maritime
Posted
i am keeping a close eye on this build having just started my own wooden build in the week, best of luck with it, you have made a good start!!