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Everything posted by Stuck

  1. Lidle W5 kitchen degreaser in a spray bottle, also use it as an airbrush cleaner.
  2. The only problem that I have had with mine is a blocked nozzle, which has been caused by cross contamination, '( my fault ) usually caused by using lacquers after acrylics, because the brush has not been fully cleaned. I did have a lot of problems with the .15 nozzle because in my opinion these are designed for graphic artists and the like, so last year brought a .2 from Paul at Little cars,, and have hardly had a prob since, and that is all i use now, The brush fits my hand like a glove and I love the stream lined shape. Having spent a career using wood working tools I can tell when I have got quality in my hands these certainly have.
  3. I swear by my 7year old H&S evolution 2 in 1 as much as Iwata users swear by theirs, the pros and cons of both have already been discussed. Well it sounds as though you are sold on the Iwata. But in your case I should honestly reconsider purely because of the versatility of an H&S.. If you are worried about having to replace nozzles well you could buy quite a few for the price of another AB. The 3 common needle sizes ( I think there are more ) will cover every modeling need, and dont forget that theoretically you have the choice of 3 cup sizes because for very fine work you can take the cup off and that gives virtual 100% vision. Last year I treated myself to another airbrush purely for primeing a Paasche single action .siphon fed,its crude simple and I love it !!
  4. Far to many HPs , CPs, BPs, CRs, CH, going on here for me to keep track of. Just how many different airbrushes do Iwata produce ? Sounds like a question of to much variety. I wouldnt worry about it too much until your Chinese cheapo packs up
  5. Stuck

    de-canting paint?

    I use exactly the same method as Duncan describes, the only difference is that I tack the straw onto the nozzle with some cheap super glue holding it upright in a vice if possible, as soon as that is set go around the straw with another ring of superglue and sprinkle baking powder on it, this will have the effect of causing the super glue to dry immediately,repeat this 2 or 3 times and you will have a rock hard mound surrounding the nozzle and straw.
  6. It is a 1/24 scale car kit, I have just had a look on the Tamiya website and they do recommend using ABS cement on this kit, apparently its the same plastic used for 1/350 ship masts.on their kits. Now having had a look at the kit the plastic does seem to have a different feel to it, very shiny, I have tried gluing a bit of sprue with extra thin but it doesnt seem to dry, so I have ordered some Tamiya ABS. Just hope it works as well as extra thin.
  7. Hi there, I have just taken delivery of a Tamiya kit, a 2015 release.,At the start of the instructions it suggests using Tamiya ABS cement for sprues ( I presume ) A&B which forms the bulk of the build. Now this has left me a little bit confused as to why. As a rule I use Tamiya extra thin, holding the parts together , running the brush along the joints , and letting the capillary action do the rest, this seems to work . So can any of you give me any pointers as to why it might be best to use it, left me wandering have they started using a new type of plastic for their kits ? Cheers
  8. I use this, doubt if its 100% for the purists, but it does help. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pulgadas.hobbycolorconverter&hl=en
  9. Mark if you take my advise ,I would put all the enamel away,and buy some acrylic either Vallejo, Tamiya or Gunze . I say this because when I started out with an airbrush about 8 years ago is all I had was humrol a revell enamels and I got into nothing but problems. It was not until i went out and brought some Tamiya that things started going right. I also smelt a rat when you mentioned the Vallejo thinners but Andrew has already mentioned that. Don't worry if you first couple of models dont turn out quite the way you expected, it is always good to look back at those in years to come so you can see how you have progressed, you can practice mottling effects etc on old plastic bottles etc with the left over bits of paint, and in that way learn for yourself the best thinner/ pressure works best for you., . then as you progress you can try the virtues of enamel and other finishes., Wish you all the best with your new airbrush.
  10. Never mind, at least Joueclub has replenished their stocks of Tamiya paint.
  11. Gs Hypo glue ordered from Amazon, thankyou.
  12. I have had an H&S evolution silverline FPC for over 7 years now, and although I have had a few replacement nozzles in that time I wouldn't wish for anything else .At that time I knew nothing of the merits of Iwata, and everything I read was raving on about Aztec. Daft as it seems now what swayed my desision was that I liked the sound of the German name. It sounds now that this seems to have come down to tossing a coin, but what ever you end up with there will be times when it might not perform quite like you expect it to because by their very nature ABs,can be finicky things and you will start wishing that you had brought the other. Is all I can say is dont and stick with your weapon of choice. Like many tools I have they seem to get better with age and become an extension of your hand. On the question of the H&S nozzle problem, I am sure now that 9 times out of 10 the splitting is caused by trying to force the needle through a slightly blocked nozzle. Every time I clean it now I have a very cheap pair of those Ebay magnifying glasses.holding the nozzle up to the light you will amazed how much gunk can be stuck up there , I never try to get it out with a cleaning needle or brush instead soak in lacquer thinners for a while and give the blunt end a sharp tap on a hard table. maybe some would dispute that but it seems to work for me
  13. Thanks for the reassurance. leaving it to cure for 24 hours and giving it a gentle rub with a bit of kitchen towel has given me the finish and sheen that i wanted to achieve. What worry's me now is the sticking on of the last few bits, I have already noticed that the slightest bit of super glue can leave a very big stain, might try PVA unless any of you have a better idea.
  14. Hi , well it might seem a silly question but I have just done a paint job with this and after a couple of coats apart from a few lumps and bumps I am quite satisfied with the finish so much so that I dont realy want to go over it with a clearcoat. I have some Aqua gloss but i fear that might make it a bit shiny, also some Klear Kote Matte but I am a bit dubious of using that because the last time i did it never dried. So I prefer to leave it just as it is, but I just wanted to be sure before removing the masking. Thanks for any advice
  15. Your hair cut was eye watering Dave ? , mine was clucking,heartbreaking !!. Back in 68 it was cool to have long hair and on joining I had quite a crop. Now a Matelot quite easily mellow in with the crowd in civies, but then you would stick out like a sore thumb on a run ashore I hated it and lost all confidence with the opposite sex. Now perhaps it was a myth, but I was led to believe that you had to have enough hair left on your head to be grabbed hold of if you fell into the drink, so zero cuts were out. At least we were blessed with a great class instructor a PO who had served through the war and our class was to be his last job before retirement. What ever he was instructing us at he would always go off on a tangent as to what he got up to out in the far east, a great character but didnt seem to learn much.!!. Only thing I ever did well in was the assault course, after my teams final test, we were told that our time was one of the best ever, and we were asked if we would like to do it again to see if we could beat the camp record that had been set ;in 1952, if memory serves me well we did.
  16. Over the years I seem to have forgotten more than I remember about this place, but after watching last nights prog i woke up this morning doing a bit of reminiceing.. so its nice to see that i am not alone here.. I seem to remember back in 1968 that it was all black wooden huts with a big building in the middle, the only thing I could recognize was the parade ground.Also I got a bit confused with were warrant officers fitted into the hierarchy and their seemed to be a lot of them floating about for one class. We just had one class PO. I came to the conclusion that it must now take more to train one sailor for todays modern Navy.
  17. Don't know if I am the only old seadog that did my Navy training here. but watching last nights Royal Navy school on Channel 4 I just couldnt recognize the place and just how training methods have changed, mind you it was nearly 50years since I was there !!. My first week as I remember was being picked up from Plymouth station Monday afternoon and going to the new entry block starting off being treated very softly softly, and then on Friday afternoon marching down to the parade ground and being introduced to the friendly GI who asked us to walk up and down the drill hall as casually as we liked and on the way back shouting at us " Right thats the last time you ####s will be doing that for a few years !!" Oh dear what had I let myself in for. The following week we did our first parade, it was a boiling hot May afternoon and we were wearing those wire wool sea jerseys. because of the heat we were sweating profusely which shrunk the new cap so much that I thought my brain was crushing, and will never forget striping off for a shower on returning to the mess and our bodies were blue apart from were those rather long underpants and vest fitted. At least now you get issued with a decent pair of boots!!
  18. A little bit off topic, I was a Hangar century 1969/70. Maybe this pic might be of interest to you which i have posted before but can no longer find it here. I am out of sight on the other side shaking with fear because immediately after I had a little meeting with Captain Treacher which resulted in 2 weeks punishment so my only visit ashore in Boston was to empty a dustbin.
  19. The only reason I now stick mainly to the .02 needle and small cup is that I now have another airbrush just for Primer, if you are doing large areas the large cup is indispensable..
  20. For the very reason that Humbrol is a household and it was the only model paint that I ever used for years, is perhaps sentimentally why I would prefer to use it. But when you have thoroughly stirred the enamel ,, applied it to your model, and then it just sits there for days not drying and gathering dust,then its too late to search for remedy's apart from stripping it all off with some nasty solution.,and starting again. The problem I have found is that I never know what tin this is going to happen with until its too late. So therefore I find Humbrol an unreliable paint and regrettably dont use it any more. Its all about useing a product you feel confident with, for me that is Tamiya , and Vallejo model color for brushing.,.
  21. Thats what I do seems to work fine and saves a lot of time and fiddling, Never bother measuring, just keep on adding a little more thinners until it sprays how I want. I have read that some paints dont like being stored pre thinned. More often or not with Tamiya I add at least 50% thinners. Dont think there are any hard and fast rules with airbrushing, find the method that suits you best and stick by it. I know when my airbrush is spraying right by the sound of it.
  22. I have had 2 of these enamels , copper and bronze for donkeys years now ,whenever i use them I find one congealed mess in the bottom.. However half filling the bottle with cellulose thinner and leaving it for an hour or so and after giving it a good stir,its as good as new and sprays beautifully and dries quick . But where im a bit confused, if this is a lacquer base or enamel ? Although I have never tried it I doubt if it would brush any good, but its a brilliant spray paint.
  23. While building mine last night got me thinking of just what paint job you could do. Considering that it seems to have been the French hippy travelers van of choice back in the 70s the skys the limit,. i might now go for a bit of psychedelia with mine
  24. Never mind, keeps my wallet in the pocket,thanks anyway. Rennes peut-etre ?
  25. A little bit off topic, With the sad demise of Mini Loisiers in St Brieuc, do you know of any other dedicated model shops in Dept 22 Antoine ? .The rather limited range of kits and paints in Joueclub at Langueux does depress me a little bit.
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