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Everything posted by Stuck

  1. Stuck


    Thank you very much for that pte, I have had a quick look at their French suppliers list and it seems half of them are not based in France and so there are the same postal restrictions, or selling to the trade only. and charging extortionate prices. So I will ask Models for sale to send it to my sons in London, and pick it up from there when i visit. I would like to mention that I have just received a kind and apologetic email from Model railway loft to say it was a computer error, so I dont want any of you to feel bad about them, so maybe i will at least get sorted with some humbrol clear !!
  2. Stuck


    Hi, Does anyone one know of a good supplier of alclad and other paints in France. I had been getting it sent over from Models for sale who gave me excellent service, but now with new postal regulations they can no longer send it. I also looked on Amazon France yesterday for the new humbrol clear and the only seller that I could find wanted 115€ a bottle, and 14€ for a pot of humbrol enamel !!, although I should point out that the postage was free!! ; Model railway Loft French are not that stupid!!
  3. Stuck

    Humbrol Clear....

    I would love to try this stuff but it seems a bit pricey here in France!. http://www.amazon.fr/gp/offer-listing/B0076IPXOC?SubscriptionId=AKIAJ2AAONXYNQIB5SKQ&tag=1fr-21&linkCode=sp1&camp=2025&creative=12742&creativeASIN=B0076IPXOC
  4. Hi there, Now I know this might sound a bit of a silly question, but for a work project i have a model farmyard to make which could lead to many more. However i am in a bit of a quandary as to what scale to work to. I have had a look in my local toy shop here in France and the only range of farm animals is by a company named Schleich, but i have looked on their website and they dont seem to mention what scale they are.. I know that Britains range are a lot smaller; I dont expect for anything to be the exact scale, after all they will be children's toys. Also another project will be fantasy castles, to compliment warhammer figures etc; So any help on these subjects will be much appreciated. Thankyou.
  5. Thanks very much for that Dave, working in 1/72 scale i will wait for the airfix kit to come out.
  6. Well thanks for all your replies, seems to have opened a whole can of worms !! . It seems obvious after what i have read here is that they would have been filthy after a few runs out, and that the lovely yellow tail fins on my model would have been nearly black! . Preferring to finish my models in a more pristine condition i will take the bull by the horns and give it a go, assuming that mine had just been delivered to the airbase by one of those lady pilots who was very careful on the controls, and the ground crew lovingly washed and polished it !! ; But then again thinking about it, that decal i put on last night showing how many bombs that it had dropped would give that game away !! ;
  7. Hi, Im just getting to the painting stage where i am debating whether to paint exhaust stains on the Lancaster that i am building; However in the past I have spoilt a few models trying to do this ; After looking at a good few pics I notice that there doesnt seem to be any on the outboard exhaust on the Lancaster, can any of you give me a reason for this ? ; i would be very grateful if any of you could give me any hints and tips on how to achieve this effect successfully ; Thanks.
  8. Thank you very much for the offer Ark, I am trying to gather as much info and referance as possible;, so it would be nice to have a copy if it is not too much of a problem.
  9. Seem to have made a slight cock up there, was the first try at uploading a pic onto this site. Hope this pic will be of interest to some of you. Could perhaps be useful reference to someone modeling the Eagle and wondering how many crew to put on deck!. Correct me if I am wrong but it was taken entering Boston in summer 69, but because I was given this pic over 20 years later after a bizarre set of circumstances, I am not certain. But if correct then I was one of those on deck shaking with fear cause immediately afterwards I was in front of the Captain to be doshed out 2 weeks punishment, and consequently never stepped a foot ashore in Boston. One day I will never forget in a hurry.
  10. Thankyou for this review. This is a model that I would love to make, but after reading so many negative remarks about matchbox i was a bit put off . I will now see if its in stock next time i go to town.
  11. Many years ago i did spray finishing on the furniture i was making which involved a lot of tinting in between coats and this called for varying amounts of pressure, an expert taught me a trick, and that was to hold the air pipe in my other hand with a bend in it, by simply pressing or releasing that would control he amount of air reaching the gun; it didnt take too long to get the knack of it. i did start off with a cheap single action airbrush and the method worked; However I prefer to hold my model in my hand when spraying, but I am sure with some practice it would be possible to do it in the same hand as your airbrush.
  12. "DING , DING , DING ; " Well the sound of that lift going up and down is one along with the constant bang as a result of sleeping directly belore the arrest or wire is one i will never forget !!. So thank you so much for the links Dave, The Liverpool trip I remember well cause its the last visit that I made ; I think that we were supposed to go to Hamberg but for some reason the visit was cancelled . Thankyou too Giorgio, I am just going to check Amazon out I didnt know a book existed. The only photo piece of memorabilia that I have is a good quality B/W aerial pic of the Eagle entering Boston summer 69 ; As soon as I have found out how, i will up load it if is of interest to any of you .
  13. Can I just say what an incredible looking Lancaster that is Chuck, one of the best examples I have seen !!. I was just about to start primeing my revell Lanc today, and went to bed last night thinking do i dare attempt this method which I will admit knew absolutely nothing about until reading the thread. So this morning over my coffee I had another look, and " Oh dear " I was horrified to find that I had "stuck" the fairing around the upper gun turret the wrong way around!!!, so thanks to you i have just in the nick of time managed to correct it ; So just just for the moment im going to play it safe, best not to run before you can walk!!
  14. Im wondering if any of you can help me, All throughout 1969 and early 1970 I served on board HMS Eagle as a stoker first pumping avcat to the flight deck, and then becoming a hangar sentry ; After just 2 years service I got a discharge on medical grounds, Dermatitis caused by all the different fuels and oils I was coming into contact with. And that was that. Well when a few years ago I rekindled my childhood passion for makeing model aircraft, memories started flooding back of those days on the Eagle and all the close contact I had with the aircraft .Nearly 50years down the line those memories are becoming a bit vague, but i can remember having to pay special attention to a Harrier while on watch which was undergoing some sort of trials, also there were Phantoms doing them as well. Up until now I have only made ww2 aircraft, but in the future I would at least like to make that Harrier and eventualy the rest of the ships compliment, so at least I have a few aircraft in my collection which tell a personal story for my Grandchildren, maybe ! . So if any of you can fill me in with any information as to squadrons numbers and markings etc, and to just what kits are available and anything else i would be really grateful. Thankyou M
  15. While I am not an experienced enough modeler to argue the rights and wrongs post and pre shadeing etc etc, and what is black and what is not; what I do know is that as much as they can be a valuable source for research , one should never rely on the color definition of these old photos too much because one has to remember that at the time of the second world war color photography was still in its infancy. Knowing a little bit more about photography than I do about models, depending on what time of day the picture was taken will affect the hue; In the Heinkel 111 pic everything seems too black, and in the other one it seems to have far too much magenta and cyan, maybe if one knew the exact colour of the overalls then they could put it in photo shop and re ajust it and maybe then you could see what colour the black actually was. On reading about the scale effect of black in the first book I brought on painting models the very well known author suggested a 50/50 mix of black and red brown, and went on to say trust me it does look right, well I took his word for it and when i finished my Lysander it looked terrible like brown with a bit of black in it; I have long learnt my lesson, and while agree that black is too stark it only needs the slightest bit of toning.
  16. Well thanks to all of you for all your help and advise., and after digesting it all I have drawn my own conclusions. There seems no doubt that from what i have read the best interpretation of dark slate grey in the Tamiya range is XF22 RLM grey, I dont think there can be much argument about that. After reading a thread on this site it was suggested that a good extra dark sea grey was a lot of XF 24 dark grey a tiny bit of white and an even tinier bit of flat blue, ( I dont take too much notice of precise % values !! ) I have mixed a batch of this and it matches perfectly the color of the model on the back of the kit box that i want to make, but after trying it out on an old model the XF22 just does not look right against it, as one of you said too washed out, and when put against the colour on the box it a million miles away; Well by now I expect a lot of you who have seen this kit will be screaming that Italerie have got it all wrong, yes I know !!, unless i am colour blind the green on the 6 versions depicted is exactly the same !! , and this is where my confusion first started; But I just love the way it looks , so im going to find the green to match it which looks suspiciously like olive green; Through my own profession I know only too well the effects of fading and how quick it can happen, and no doubt for most of its time in service the Sunderland was a very dirty aircraft; Any of you that has seen the film " The Yangtse incident " will have seen the sequence of the sunderland coming in to land how the exhaust stains nearly covered the wings ; On this particular model if you are going to start weathering it, then to do it right you are going to be in for hell of a job!!; So mine is going to be finished in pristine museum condition ( I hope !!) . But in the future when i have gained more confidence i will try some fading effects on a less demanding model Thankyou M
  17. Haveing followed this thread with great interest because as already said I too am a H/S evolution user , and not without problems. So this morning with the little bit of tamiya paint left in the pot thinned it down a bit more I practiced my fine lines on an old scrap model, something I quite often do, well after the usual splutters i tried thining it down a bit more and then spiders everywhere; So then I tried some humbol thinned with celulose, even worse !! '( by the way this was with the 1/15 needle; So hastily cause i had far more important things to do, I found a very very old container of rotring drawing pen ink and hey presto within five minutes i was painting the finest lines possible, relaxed confident, and with ease. So that proves that their is nothing wrong with the airbrush!!; Now haveng given this a lot of thought, im begining to wonder if i have been going down the wrong track for the last few years, where as i would like most assume that the finer the needle the finer the work. The fine needle stays on the brush for most of the time, and as long as the paint is well thinned i am perfectly satisfied with the results for general spraying, but when it comes down to very fine work the nozzle clogs because being such a small nozzle and working with such a low flow the particles of paint are just not geting through. Where as with the 4 needle even closed right down the paint has no problem going through, and all though the minimum thickness of line is a lot thicker it is thin enough for most modeling work. Correct me if I am wrong , but i doubt whether theire is one airbrush made specifacly for modelers, and Should say that the fine needle is more for artists and graphic work who are useing far more finely pigmented paints and inks than we do; So after this mornings results i will be doing far more research into the use of inks with my models.
  18. That is exactly as i am begining to feel,thanks for that!!
  19. Many years ago, I had a brief spell in the Royal Navy, and served on HMS Eagle before it was decommisioned, I was a Stoker and my first job was way down in the bowels of the ship pumping Avcat up to the flight deck, there was not much to do on many watches, so to break up the monotamy ,there was a pile of pussers paint, all colours, and we used to paint all the pipes and machinery whatever colour we wanted realy, being right ai the middle of the Hippie era, can you imagine what it looked like !!. Perhaps one day Revell might make a cutaway model of the Eagle, that will give the guy who does the colour callouts a run for his money!!.
  20. "I'm sure Sunderlands would look lovely in colours of plum and tangerine," So do I !!
  21. Well thanks for that, I have a habit of worrying about little things that dont realy matter. over the last few years I have built up quite a stock of different paints, and with cash being a bit hard to find these days I dont want to buy anymore unless i have to, In the future I want to make a few more models in this colour sceme so I want to get it right now. Maybe I take what i read too seriously, and it is if sometimes it is a matter of life and death!!. On reflection I doubt whether in our hour of need in the battle of Britain they worried too much about what colour the planes were as long as they hit the skys!!
  22. Hi, I have just started an Italerie Short Suderland which i want to paint extra dark sea grey and slate grey, I use mainly Tamiya paints because I am confident with them, so I went on the net and tapped in to google the name of the colour to see what images came up. Well i found at leatst 4 from reliable sources but each one contradicted each other. So now I am left wondering and totaly confused as to which is right and which is wrong. i know that many of you will have your own interpretation, Just like interior green, the xtracrylix and humbrol are 2 completly different shades i personaly think the Humbrol looks better. So i am asking is it just better at the end of the day to go with what you think is right whether it is or not?.
  23. Hi there Tony, Dont get me wrong I am still haveing problems with fine lines,sometimes it splutters , and if its too thin spiders; but i am sure these are problems i would get with any airbrush, and maybe this is just a problem with the tamiya paint that i use a lot. I would realy like to try some of those pysco italian colour scemes, but Im still learning and so until i am confident on geting it right I will continue to cut my teeth on very basic ones. I have been a Carpenter and Joiner for nearly 45 yrs, and sometimes people have watched me saw and plane a piece of wood and ask me how i make look so easy, well the awnser is that ive done so much that im not realy thinking about it. I think that is the secret of good airbrushing, and im sure that if i watched a real artist at work and asked him thats the same awnser that he would give me. I have tried vallejo brush paint and am realy pleased with it, so i must try the air range.
  24. I have only just joined this site after veiwing all the excellent examples of your members work, while looking for hints and tips to improve my airbrushing i came across this post; When i first took up the hobby again 4 years ago, I soon found that i would want an airbrush and so brought a cheap chinese one on ebay,although it did give reasonable results I soon realised its limitations, so after saveing up without doing much research i brought an H and S,evolution only on a hunch that being German it would be well engineered, and I liked the sound of the name!! ; On geting it out of the box I expected a 100% improvement on the other one, and how dissopointed I was!!. I very soon felt just like you, but with money very hard to find I could not afford to replace it, so I just had to soldier on with the thing the best that I could, It is only now after much trial and error there was nothing wrong the airbrush just my technique, I cannot add much to what has already been written only to say that it seems that all the model paints that I have tried have their merits and limitations, and need correct thinning, i know only thin with whatever brand I am useings own thinners , and have learnt never to put thinned paint back into the original container it can lead to contamination, because the 1,5 needle is so fine the slightest speck of dust will block it. If i can give one tip for the top Lidl sell a degreasant for the kitchen in an orange spray container called W5 it as an excellant airbrush cleaner and cheap, it will remove dried paint and i have left my airbrush soaking in it for days in my sonic cleaner, (also from Lidl) and has had no ill efect on the seals and joints. If I were you i would save your money and soldier on with your H and S, mine now fits my hand like a glove, I cannot speak for other brands I have never tried them, with care and attention this tool will last a lifetime. One thing I can say is if I had taken the advise from the first book i read on the subject then I would have brought an Azteck, after reading all the posts on here this morning im glad I didnt.
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