Caerbannog

Hmm.... yes and no - for an M-21 which is more an A-12 than an SR-71 IIRC* Looks way better than my Eagles Talon kit on my shelf of Doom. Maybe its time to finally bin than. *Edit: Speaking of it - maybe a clue to Clear Prop next release?

Brilliant looking Hampden. A masterpiece - especially when you consider the parts you started with.

Resin printed Buck Rogers Thunderfighter in 1:72 scale. Build log here:

Thanks for the kind comments. The Thunderfighter is done: A "repair panel" is now where the crooked decal was. Canopy frames were thinned from the inside and clear sheet was added. Some washes and streaks and a final clear cote 🙂 Thanks for looking.

Most of my decal designs are done in Corel Draw or Illustrator. I do files for each subject - like NASA Huey and for generic decals, like US insignias and such. When I do a print I grab the drawings out of the individual files and arrange them to fit the size of the decal paper. I usually buy decal paper for laser printers and mostly cear sheet. Laser because I ony had bad results with ink jet on decal paper and clear, because they are more versatile IMHO. The only thing to consider is that the dcals will be the more translucent, the lighter the colour is. White colour like the stars on US insignias will be clear. So n a white Huey you will be perfectly fine. But if the subject is any darker colour, you will have to get white where the decal will be. Either by priming white and masking these areas, or by printing just the outline of the decal on another sheet of white paper (never tried this myself). You could also use a plotter to cut white decal film to size - never tried this either. Or you print the outline in a thin light colour on the clear decal sheet, paint the inside of this maked area withe and put this "decal" on first and then the coloured decal on top. Did this - works. Another plus of laser printed decals is you do not need to fix the print with a clear coat. The ink will be waterproof from the laser printer. Hope this helps.

Nice - so I will pass on the Monogram re-re-re-release of Revell 🙂

Correct - McQuarrie did the X-Wing, Colonial Viper and the Thunderfighter. Well - and many more great looking SciFi stuff I added a wash and decided to put the two round decals on, just before I went to bed. Put a good puddle of decal softener on and next morning: The decal on the left moved out of place Now - usually I print some extra decals when I am doing my own ones - but for what ever reason, I have no left overs of this one... I pulled it off with cellutape and will add a new one once I print new decals. Probably no sooner than next year. Maybe I add a "repair panel" in place of the decal. Next I will add the matt coat and some more weathering, remove the thick inner canopy framing and add clear sheet for the windows.

Some progress... Painting the not so detailed interior: But as I will keep the canopy closed, not much will be seen. The custom decals cracked here and there and need touch up with some paint. Gloss coat added for panel wash:

Esci Huey in 1:48 scale with custom made decals. Otherwise out of the box and with lots of differences from the real NASA bird... Who cares... 😉

Well - it is done! Sorry for no further in progress photos but it was just touching up the decals with blue paint, adding some colour here and there, clear coate and small bits. Voila: And so well ahead of the dead line. Never managed this before 😄 Thanks for watching.

There was a very nice resin garage kit of the worm - just do not recall who did it at the moment. The Revell one looks a bit toyish out of the box, which was the reason why I did not buy it back then as a tennager 😉 I found their choice a bit odd - the harvester they planned would have been much more interesting I tink. Hope these new kits will be a decent scale.

Nice they continue with the Schneider racers. Hope the S.4 and Maccis will follow. I build the S.6 for a "Less than a tenner GB" many years ago (Testors kit of course) but still might be interested to do another S.6 🙂

Well I suppose the lower right is "jacking point". The other on top is ending with "... release" - but the first word seems rather short. Does not seem to be "canopy". Looks more like "here" but makes not much sense in front of "release" IMHO. If I get an idea, I will let you know...

great idea!

OK - I'll be first: WRONG SCALE!!!! Should be 1:48 as everybody knows 😉

Just found this thread - excellent built! Thanks for sharing!

I am not sure what impresses me more - the build or the build space. One dirty the other tidy. Guess there is some serious photoshopping going on 😉 Very nice!

I finally decided for the UH-1H decals. First because their print turned out nicer and second because the kit is neither fuly correct for either version 🙂 Decal artwork was done by me and then laser printed on clear decal paper. I had a bad feeling about it: It would have been better to have the blue stripes curved for the curved front of the Huey. The carrier film is a bot stiff and does almost not react at all to setting solution: Well - promiss kept: This will be no show stopper 😉

I suppose nail polish is the correct paint to use on nylons.

A little progress on the Thunderfighter - primer coat applied: The metal mesh is an old ironing board minus the padding and cover. It is a great paint stand, when spaying parts outside as the paint can just pass the mesh and does not whirl around. In my eyes the result is better. So in case you want to replace an old ironing board, maybe you just want to dipose the foam and cloth stuff and keep the rest. In lack of other updates a short time travell in my childhood days: On my very first trip to England (1980?) we went by Hovercraft and at the port they had the usual selection of Duty-Free stuff, magazines, etc and of course toys. You guess it - I got the Corgi Thunderfighter: (photo from "Little Wheels Museum" - more here: https://www.chezbois.com/corgi/modern_corgi/5464.htm) Needless to say I was a very happy Bunny 🙂 and maybe a little pain in the neck (literally - with the help of unguided red missiles) No idea where the Corgi Thunderfighter got lost. I still have the Batmobile and 007 Lotus, but anything else is lost 😞

Yes - but I will print a replacement "spine" the next days and replace the cracked area. Really: It is a good idea to be very pedantic when washing and curing your resin prints. And to be very carefull when printing hollow parts. In the beginning I was trying to safe as much resin as possible and to print as many parts hollow as possible (you can ask your slicer software to print solid parts as hollow to safe on resin). But then you need to make sure no uncured resin is anywhere in your parts. Now I only print parts hollow if their diameter is nowhere less than 5 mm. You need about 1.8 mm wall thickness to be on the safe side (as far as I am concerned) - with 5mm outer diameter there is only a 1.4 mm passage for the resin to get out... So no way if there is not another hole somewhere to "blow" through. However: I keep my prints to cure for several days before I cover them in paint.

Excellent work!

Scale? Hmm - in former years it would be box scale. As of today it is printer scale I would say. In other words I adjusted the scale so the largest part just fit my Elegoo Saturn. The result was a approx. 60 cm long Tantive IV. IIRC I had to downscale the original files by about 80% I still have to fix it. The neck and cockpit are one piece, so I either have to print the entire part (will try to avoid) or just the broken up area. The good thing with prints is: You can print as many replacement parts as you need... These were the best Blockade Runner files available - but I am affraid the shop closed.

Hmmm... interesting but I fear not 100% acurate. The livery was surely not white but aluminum. My understanding is that the "whiskers" are red (rear) and green (front). I can also agree that the frameing on top of the wings etc. seem to be in different colours. Most likely also red and green and maybe even black. But white? Would not even match to the statement that the airframe itself was white... maybe I got someting wrong. I-NAPO framing looks very light here (even lighter than the green on the vertical stabilizers): https://warbirdsnews.com/warbird-restorations/rebuilding-savoia-marchetti-s-55.html Here the whiskers looks like two colours to me: If the rear whisker is red and the front whisker is green, then I would say the framing is maybe green or black, but not red. But then there is this: Whiskers seem to be one colour? Oh dear... Maybe we better wait for them: https://www.corriere.it/cronache/20_febbraio_09/cosi-stanno-ricostruendo-savoia-marchetti-s-55-x-l-aereo-trasvolata-balbo-ebe1af1a-4749-11ea-bec1-6ac729c309c6.shtml

The files look quite nice - were are they from?