Jump to content

Caerbannog

Gold Member
  • Posts

    4,316
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by Caerbannog

  1. Excellent work and nice floor mats idea 🙂 You should sell that Batsignal STL and maybe you upgrade parts.

    I only have the old Aurora 1:32. Bought it at a fortune without box and missing parts many years ago. My plan was to transform itinto a slot car... A year or so later the kit was rereleased and a few years back Scalextric released a very nice slot car ... Murphys law 🙂

    • Haha 1
  2. I just stumple along until someone asks me to stop 😉

    Just finished sticking on some very tiny PE parts to the Aires resin seat:

    A-10 NATO GB 2

    The instructions are very vague and it took me a while and some reference photos to figure out what goes where. I am not overly happy with the PE bits. They are way too tiny for my taste and except for the harness, I would be more happy with a full resin seat.

    • Like 2
  3. 1 hour ago, exdraken said:

    Great story behind this one!

    But this ideally fit the 75 years of NATO topic?

    That was Iraqi Freedom no? Not exactly a NATO operation!

     

    But of course, just my 2cnts 😉

    Sorry but I am not sure if that matters. As far as I understood the GB it is about any NATO subject - no matter if it took part in any operation or war. If I am mistaken I can pull this out of course.

  4. OK. Against better knowledge and against my oath to reduce the amount of shelf queens I through this one in.

     

    A-10 NATO GB 1

     

    For several years my Hobby Boss kit, with Two Bobs decals and a fair bit of aftermarket parts is waiting to be build as the battle damaged Irak raider. Never started this though as I was hoping to find some more photos but did not succeeded. So I suppose I need to add a bit of artistic licence regarding the battle damage. Meanwhile I did some resin printed intake improvement parts:

    So this build will also be a test for these as well 🙂

    Rene

    • Like 4
  5. Funnily I find it quite hard to name a fighter. Bomber is easy: XB-70 If you name it here one might add the A-12 as non-fighter (a bit more beautiful than SR-71 IMHO and while I like the YF-12 the orperational version would have been more nicely looking). Many beautiful racers like MC-72 or Supermarines and Queen of all the DH 88 Comet. Which leads me to: DH Sea Hornet 🥰 But agree with Hawker Hunter, Spitfire (high back MkXIV or PR.19), Mustang, Tigercat, ... To add one to the list: Lockheed XF-90

    • Like 1
  6. So if V3540 was delivered on 2nd of November 1940 and the request to extend the camouflage came on 30th October 1940 ("are to be made effective as soon as possible") then I am pretty sure V3540 would have been delivered with the high demarcation line. I may be wrong but I guess it is quite unlikely that V3540 would have seen a repaint to the later standard in her first year at Kinloss before Amy Johnsons last flight on January 5th 1941?

  7. 21 hours ago, hendie said:

    I have had this happen in the past, but what I noticed about those parts were that the were relatively thick walled and had not been cured properly. After some time (many, many weeks) I noticed that cracks started to appear on some parts. 

    Now I have the cure station I've never encountered the problem again.

    I use an UV lamp for post curing and usually keep the printed parts for several additional days in daylight. Maybe this could cause other problems (like makeing the parts to brittle?) but its been a while now that was blessed with a cracking model 🙂

  8. Well as I understand you can choose only from the two - Junkers or Macchi. Hmm.... I am for Macchi then but would rather like them to add Griffon Spits in 1:48 as Phoenix suggested (and yes - Bearcat and X-15 please). Others may think Eduard would ride the horse to seath but I just feel they do not complete the job 😉 

    So we reached the point where I can whining about Tamiya and the P-47N...

    • Like 1
  9. Regarding "cracking" prints: As said they happen to hollow parts which stil contain uncured resin. Hollow parts still make sense to safe resin and weight as well. But keep the hollowing function of your slicer software to parts which are large enough. You will also need to add holes to the part so that unured resin can escape. I use a syringe to "blow" water (or IPA) trough these holes to get the parts washed internally as well. It can be quite surprising how much resin would have stayed inside if I did not do this. After these precautions my prints have not cracked since.

    Take care with STL files from others - sometimes there are hollow areas hidden. I look closely in my slicer software at the single layers for such spots. If there is one, I use a drill bit and open the print afterwards. There is surely a more elegant method but hey... it works.

     

    That said I have an Elegoo Saturn and use water based resins and I am happy with the results. Speed is not so improtant for me. Looking at my stash I have plenty of time...

    • Like 1
  10. On 02/08/2019 at 19:18, Sturmovik said:

    Revell Aqua 68 is labelled as RAF Dark Green.

     

    On 02/08/2019 at 20:00, Sturmovik said:

    Don't forget to try out Revell 68, which will be widely available in Germany! 

    I have just dug out an older (some years but no more than 10 years old I daresay) Revell 68 tin as I was out of other RAF Dark Green colours. I sprayed it on a Gloster Pioneer and my usual prepared gloss heavy paper chips I keep close to my paint booth for makeing colour chips. It is not fully dried but gives a very good match to the colour chip in my copy of RAF Museum's "British Aviation colors of WW2". Not sure about Revell Aqua but I suppose the colour should be pretty much the same.

    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...