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aerodes

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Everything posted by aerodes

  1. Good morning RJP from sunny(ish) Red Rose county. As for cataracts - UK National Health Service ops for them are a bit of a post code lottery on justifying the op unless you're near to your white stick and guide dog. I'm nigh on 73: use varifocal lenses and have dry AMD, hence the 1:72 scale issue- but still giving life hell. Have toyed with the idea of single vision reading glasses for modelling. As for light - I use an adjustable desk light with a daylight bulb in it. Started using it to give better colour rendition when doing my calligraphy - it's good. Rgds See your interested in WWII aircraft - one reason for choosing the Stirling was that my late father-in-law was ground crew on them 1939 - 45. I've started the Horsa glider to along with the Stirling and hopefully the two will be part of a commemorative display in the Preston barracks of the Queens Lancashire Regiment during the last week of Oct entitled 'D-Day to Berlin'. I'm told that it will be a display of all things related to that specific period of time. Rgds
  2. Thanks for replies. Will try the Kristal Klear tip - can get old window out because I've modelled it with the rear access door open. Hi Dogsbody - I'll try to do better with the pic sizes - I share your eye sight probs - I'm struggling with the fine detail of 1:72 scale - I need some new specs as well. Eye sight suffered after 45+ years in drawing/design offices. Mr. 'Elf an Safety' was usually elsewhere. Rgds
  3. Hi , After many months of 2 forward and 1 back steps the Mk IV is 99% there. If Shorts had taken as long to build an aircraft then we'd still be waiting for the first prototype. Anyway 3 pics attached. Two general shots - my first foray for over 50 yrs into anything other then fast jest, - so a number of issues. I'm disappointed in some of decal applications (silvering on the 'WES' decals) even though I used microsol and microset and took great care to expel any trapped air - at least I thought I had - hey-ho onwards and upwards. Pleased with the D-Day invasion stripes - masked and painted rather than using the decals and the light engine exhaust weathering. Now I need some help please The side windows and top observation dome were covered with masking fluid to mask off. After painting and final varnishing this windows was proving hard to clear - then dam! it pushed loose so any more work and it would disappear into the model. \currently held in place with a coat of klear. I have spare windows but there's no way they would go in without trimming down to the size of the fuselage hole - but then how to hold in place and what adhesive to use? Any tips - anyone solved this problem before? Rgds
  4. Cheers! All tried and tested tips welcomed.
  5. Settled for the levelling thinners- well pleased - thanks for advice. Onwards and upwards. Rgds
  6. Thanks for help. Tried brush painting in some small parts and Tamiya thinners no good - wouldn't touch the paint tp clean brush - had to clean brush with cellulose thinners. Don't want to spray cellulose unless I have to. Thanks - will look at local supply of Gunze.
  7. Hi guys, Painting RAF interior green to WW2 Horsa - can anyone recommend a suitable thinners for the paint?
  8. Hi, Try this link. Kin Bromely Art Supplies - current has the W&N Galeria varnish on sale offer. Shop is in darkest Horwich just off M61 - A6 if your in the area. https://www.artsupplies.co.uk/item-winsor-&-newton-galeria-matt-varnish.htm
  9. Thanks to everyone who replied - it's all go info and helped me through the mire of what's on't tinternent. Just need to make my mind up and 'go-for-it'. Rgds
  10. Hi.Thanks for the info. I've already looked at both your compressor. I particularity like the motor cut-off feature the little-tank compressor. Price was just above the budget limit I'd set. Will look at your shop site for info on p&p and delivery dates - probably PM you. Rgds
  11. Hi. My old compressor has just about given up (leaking air like a punctured tyre). Been scanning the forums and web page for a new one. Arghhh I'm more confused, the more info I read. Can anyone help point me in a right direction, through the jungle of info and reviews. I have a budget of up to £150 - £200 max. I don't do a large amount of painting. The quieter the compressor the better. I have two airbrushes (an Iwata Neo and a Harder & Steinbeck). Do I need a compressor with or without a holding tank given the amount of painting I do? Currently looking at Sparmax?????? Rgds
  12. Cheers MarkH. This looks nice and easy - look forward to emptying the box first! How did you check to see that port and stbd wings had same dihedral angle before letting the second wing set in place? Rgds
  13. Hi all, Well after months of slow work I've come to a key point (thought I'd never get here) - I need to glue the wings on to my Stirling. First question was going to be; do I spray primer first or glue on wings and do the whole job in one go - opted for the latter. Right: so dry fit wings - fit OK(ish) but here's where I need some advice. This is my biggest build to date and I've encountered a new prob because of the length of the wing span and the fact that the main undercarriage is already in place. How do I set and support the wings so that (a) I have the right dihedral and (b) both sides are the same - and stay the same whilst the adhesive is setting? Any advice especially if you've built one of these beasts before? For anyone who is not familiar with the 1:72 model the wing span is 16.5 inches for us imperial guys. Rgds PS thought I'd already posted this and if i have please forgive - not savvi enough on forum posting
  14. Hi all,

    Well after months of slow work I've come to a key point (thought I'd never get here) - I need to glue the wings on to my Stirling. First question was going to be do I spray primer first or glue on wings and do the whole job in one go - opted for the latter.

    Right: so dry build - fit OK(ish) but here's where I need some advice. This is my biggest build to date and I've encountered a new prob because of the length of the wing span and the fact that the main undercarriage is already in place.

    How do I set and support the wings so that (a) I have the right dihedral and (b) both sides are the same - and stay the same whilst the adhesive is setting?

     

    Any advice? For anyone who is not familiar with the 1:72 model the wing span is 16.5 inches for us imperial guys.

    Rgds

  15. Well, started the kit in readiness for a D-Day exhibition, Remembrance week this year - hoping to get around to the Horsa glider as well. Took a lot of digging to find after market kits there are still available - a lot been discontinued. Most of inside to be painted 'interior green' - opted for the Mr. Color 351 because it's supposed to be BS283 rather than an FS std. OK lots of bits now ready for the green paint but came to fuselage halves. Inside full of ejector marks -17 in each half and some cutting through moulded details highlighted with red line - Then there is some horrible sinking on the outside and one of the places where the part joined the sprue is exactly in line with a row of rivets. So smoothing out the sprue mark takes out some of the rivets. Question please - the ejector pin marks (some in blinkin' awkward places to get at) and sink marks are too shallow to fill with body filler. Would filling with layers of paint achieve an acceptable;l finish? Rgds
  16. Just been on 'tinernet looking for info on Harrier RCV's and came across this site and pdf - https://www.mudspike.com/chucks-guides-dcs-av-8b-harrier-ii/ Here's another link straight to the doc if you don't want to go to the page first - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AxKvVeNgc1ddXa_xH9W8tEdAblI_Mc5i/view The pdf is 181 pages and weighs in at just under 40meg so you might want to pick and choose from it. Loads of detailed info - I've copied lots on the cockput layout. Rgds
  17. Thanks for the commenst guys - much appreciated. A.C. - I might have a go at this model again and look at the Alliance Models decals. The kit decals leave a bit to be desired - I posted about my experiences with the kit decals on 6 Feb; here's the link if you're interested. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234934493-revelle-rafale-decals-lessons-learned/ Regards
  18. Hi - just about finished the 1/48 Revell Rafale B. Certainly been a learning curve for first model in too many years to count . I don't think you'd believe jusy how long this has taken to complete in terms of elapsed time. Anyway haven't decided if canopy open or closed so still loose fit for now. Exposure on pics has burned out the weathering a bit - must try harder. Already started next two projects so really would appreciate comments - need to learn. Do you think it's better to use poly adhesive for very small parts or super glue? Oh boy did that refuelling probe cause probs. The location on the model is a bit naff - smaller than a baby pimple. Finished up drilling hole in probe and fuselage then used a short length of wire to locate it whilst the adhesive dried.
  19. Hi -just starting (at long last) the Airfix Strikemaster and using Pavla resin cockpit set but there's no colour chart for the cockpit interior and instrument panel. Have you any suggestions? Rgds aerodes
  20. Hi Chris, Sorry made a slip with my dyslexic fingers in last post - should read Pavla resin cockpit set Rgds
  21. What great looking model. Did you use the Airfix seats or did you get a resin set - if you did which ones. I've just strated fitting the Raval resin cockpit set and would be interested in any tisp you might have. Rgds
  22. Hi folks, Since my last post about the 1/48 Rafale I've made slow progress. I've been putting the decals on the Revelle Rafale and at stages struggling with the little *************'s. One of the reasons is that I've not done this for some time but the Revelle decal plan shown on the last 2 pages of the build sheets and the decals themselves leave a lot to be desired. The decal plan itself is OK in parts but often down right useless - especially for the smaller decals that aren't symetrical and you need to the right orientation. In some areas the decal plan is different form the model itself - some panels not shown on the plan and some panels shown but not on the model. hmmmmmmm. Big lesson learned - more research about the actual aircraft needed before doing the decals. http://blog.naver.com/PostView.nhn?blogId=pwrangshion&logNo=110108175105 http://blog.naver.com/PostList.nhn?blogId=pwrangshion&from=postList&categoryNo=23 The two links habve some great photos. The second one you need to scroll over half way down the page (after the photos of the Neuron UAV) and there is a day by day report on operation to liberate Lybia with stacks of photos of the aircraft involed. The decals themselves - well here goes. The above 5 decals come as a single set on one slide. As you can see they don't fit the moulded features on the model - would have been better if I had cut them up and put them on separately then I might have been able to line up with the orange luminescent lighting strip and the emergency canopy release.But did'nt find this out until I was trying to pace the decal on the model! Obviously both port and starboard have same problem. Managed to get the wing tip launcher decal the right way around after some research on one site but the Revelle decal map is useless for this one Then I got to one of the real fun parts the fin decals for the Tiger meet version - hmmm. The assembly process shows the port and st'bd VOR antennas glued in about mid assembly process - oh boy did I get this one wrong! The decals have a small slot cut into them that matches the size of the slot for glueing on the antenna and this is much smaller than the antenna itself, I didn't realise this until I had the st'bd decal ready to appy and just about off the backing sheet. I had to cut off and piece the decal to get around it. To quote Eric Morecambe -you can see the join. On the port side I englarged the slot before hand which has left me with a small black paint repair job. I've put a black ellipse around the shot of the repair Next - the decal numbering - as you can see from the next shot there are 2 different decals numbered 34 Finally. I mamaged to get a copy of the decal sheet frorm the web and check it against the call up on the decal plan. This confirmed my suspicions - there aren't sufficient numbers of some of the small repeat decals to finish the job - especially if you wanted to do a diarama showing the full suite of stores included in the model kit. Anyway it all adds to the rich tapestry of life and the head scatching has now made my bald patch bigger. But the model progresses - hopefully to a conclusion - soon (ish) -I think.
  23. Good luck - watch with interest - looks great so far. This site has a number of good close-up shots but nothing really of the underside. http://www.primeportal.net/hangar/mike_hughes/strikemaster_mk88_nz6361/
  24. Just getting round to start 1/72 scale Strikemaster. In December ordered Pavla resin cockpit set. The parts came well packed but one of the very small items had broken - probably bounced around inside the bubble pack during transit. As you can see one of the control colum sticks had broken off - they're about 3 mm long and 0.4mm dia - easily damaged. Contacted vendor but he didn't carry any spares and suggested I get in touch with Pavla models direct. Great service - today 2 replacement parts arrived - post free from Pavla. Well pleased
  25. Great - thanks for advice. Will take it on board. I used a dark grey pastel for the weathering and can easily remove a fair amount before it is glossed. Thanks again.
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