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aerodes

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About aerodes

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  1. Thanks guys for replies - as ever great support and help on here. I've time to look into the options you've given me and try some out. Might even try making my own with decal paper - plentyof stuff on youtube I've got photoshop to play about and get the right size & colours. But I'm blummin well not paying the silly prices I've seen on the net for Testors decaal paper! Thanks again - it's time now to put the camo paint on the Brengun Spitfire floatplane.
  2. Hi all. Wasn't sure where to post this one. Just started preping to build an Italeri 1:72 Sunderlaand Mk I. I've got the Warbirds publication and decided to go for aircraft N9025 DQ-Y of 288 Squadron when based at RAF Invergordon. Personal link to this location. OK so even before I set off adivice needed. Obvioulsy no matng decals in Italeri kit but scaling up the size from those provided they would have been 45" for the squadron code (in sea grey) and 8"-9" for aircraft code N9025 in white. Looks like I'm going to have buy decal sheets of individual letters or print my own on decal paper (?????). From Sxcalemates site - Carpena have a set advertised for WW2 bombers 1936-47 either grey or medium sea grey. These however are 48". Difference may be be becasue one size for Bomber Command and other size for Coastal Command???? Only 45" ones come in white. Struggling to find the smaller aircraft code letters at WW 2 standard in white. Lettraset kit M15 is RAF WW 2 but I can't find a scaled letter size referenced. Any hlep would be appreciated. Rgds
  3. Hi, Just about to start my Sunderland Mk i after finishing a Stirling Mk IV. any cahnce you could update on your Sunderland build?

    Rgds

    1. Spookytooth

      Spookytooth

      At the moment she is the hangar awaiting a time when I can get my mojo back with her.

      It`s not a bad kit really, fit for a lot of detailing if you wish.

       

      Good luck sir.

       

      Simon.

    2. aerodes

      aerodes

      Hi Simon. Thanks for the reply. Hope it's soon out of the hangar.

      I'm trawling around for background info which really paid off with the Stirling.

      Just as a bit of background. I built the Horsa glider to go with the Stirling and was fed up on the Stirling with fuselage windows dropping out and having to mask them. So with the Horsa I used Kistal Klear after assembly of the fuse and wings but before painting. When painting and final matt clear top coat completed I cut out the windows and re-did them with the Klear - job done.

       

      Goos luck - JImB

    3. Spookytooth

      Spookytooth

      Right, after a quick think I will say that the ailerons have fine mounting points and the fit is not that great, also the port inner exhaust enters the wing! The kit part looks horrid, you will be better off making the semi-circle it fits into, into a circle and scratch the pipe in.

      Also I would recommend a masking sheet(s) for her, there`s a lot of transparencies to cover LOL.

       

      One thing I was told, that if they brought her ashore, the fuel tanks and mines were removed before beaching (to save weight (she is big)).

       

      Simon. 

  4. Good morning RJP from sunny(ish) Red Rose county. As for cataracts - UK National Health Service ops for them are a bit of a post code lottery on justifying the op unless you're near to your white stick and guide dog. I'm nigh on 73: use varifocal lenses and have dry AMD, hence the 1:72 scale issue- but still giving life hell. Have toyed with the idea of single vision reading glasses for modelling. As for light - I use an adjustable desk light with a daylight bulb in it. Started using it to give better colour rendition when doing my calligraphy - it's good. Rgds See your interested in WWII aircraft - one reason for choosing the Stirling was that my late father-in-law was ground crew on them 1939 - 45. I've started the Horsa glider to along with the Stirling and hopefully the two will be part of a commemorative display in the Preston barracks of the Queens Lancashire Regiment during the last week of Oct entitled 'D-Day to Berlin'. I'm told that it will be a display of all things related to that specific period of time. Rgds
  5. Thanks for replies. Will try the Kristal Klear tip - can get old window out because I've modelled it with the rear access door open. Hi Dogsbody - I'll try to do better with the pic sizes - I share your eye sight probs - I'm struggling with the fine detail of 1:72 scale - I need some new specs as well. Eye sight suffered after 45+ years in drawing/design offices. Mr. 'Elf an Safety' was usually elsewhere. Rgds
  6. Hi , After many months of 2 forward and 1 back steps the Mk IV is 99% there. If Shorts had taken as long to build an aircraft then we'd still be waiting for the first prototype. Anyway 3 pics attached. Two general shots - my first foray for over 50 yrs into anything other then fast jest, - so a number of issues. I'm disappointed in some of decal applications (silvering on the 'WES' decals) even though I used microsol and microset and took great care to expel any trapped air - at least I thought I had - hey-ho onwards and upwards. Pleased with the D-Day invasion stripes - masked and painted rather than using the decals and the light engine exhaust weathering. Now I need some help please The side windows and top observation dome were covered with masking fluid to mask off. After painting and final varnishing this windows was proving hard to clear - then dam! it pushed loose so any more work and it would disappear into the model. \currently held in place with a coat of klear. I have spare windows but there's no way they would go in without trimming down to the size of the fuselage hole - but then how to hold in place and what adhesive to use? Any tips - anyone solved this problem before? Rgds
  7. Cheers! All tried and tested tips welcomed.
  8. Settled for the levelling thinners- well pleased - thanks for advice. Onwards and upwards. Rgds
  9. Thanks for help. Tried brush painting in some small parts and Tamiya thinners no good - wouldn't touch the paint tp clean brush - had to clean brush with cellulose thinners. Don't want to spray cellulose unless I have to. Thanks - will look at local supply of Gunze.
  10. Hi guys, Painting RAF interior green to WW2 Horsa - can anyone recommend a suitable thinners for the paint?
  11. Hi, Try this link. Kin Bromely Art Supplies - current has the W&N Galeria varnish on sale offer. Shop is in darkest Horwich just off M61 - A6 if your in the area. https://www.artsupplies.co.uk/item-winsor-&-newton-galeria-matt-varnish.htm
  12. Thanks to everyone who replied - it's all go info and helped me through the mire of what's on't tinternent. Just need to make my mind up and 'go-for-it'. Rgds
  13. Hi.Thanks for the info. I've already looked at both your compressor. I particularity like the motor cut-off feature the little-tank compressor. Price was just above the budget limit I'd set. Will look at your shop site for info on p&p and delivery dates - probably PM you. Rgds
  14. Hi. My old compressor has just about given up (leaking air like a punctured tyre). Been scanning the forums and web page for a new one. Arghhh I'm more confused, the more info I read. Can anyone help point me in a right direction, through the jungle of info and reviews. I have a budget of up to £150 - £200 max. I don't do a large amount of painting. The quieter the compressor the better. I have two airbrushes (an Iwata Neo and a Harder & Steinbeck). Do I need a compressor with or without a holding tank given the amount of painting I do? Currently looking at Sparmax?????? Rgds
  15. Cheers MarkH. This looks nice and easy - look forward to emptying the box first! How did you check to see that port and stbd wings had same dihedral angle before letting the second wing set in place? Rgds
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