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Gary West

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Posts posted by Gary West

  1. What do you all think to the following kits (all 1/48), and what might be added to them?

    Airfix Jaguar

    Italeri Gripen (C & D)

    Italeri Mirage F.1

    Italeri Tornado

    Italeri Mirage 2000

    I like all of these jets, but haven't had modelling time for them, I just fancy adding them my collection

    Joel

    Jaguar & Tornado - Neomega cockpits + as many Paragon bits as you can afford. For both, bulged wheels, flaps, replacement afterburners are available plus more. The Jag is typical Airfix but can be turned into a real class act with the add ons.

    Mirage F1 - replacement cockpit, but having said that its a bit like the Lightning. The cockpit is so small, personally Id add some of my own detailing instead.

  2. I'm with Edgar here, I've found that Brasso (both the wads and liquid) will fracture clear parts.

    I've never used the wadding on clear parts, but remember you wash the kit down wihin minutes of using it. Not trying to convince anyone, but honestly never had any problems using Brasso/Duraglit wadding.

  3. Chaps and Chapesses

    A while ago I bought some clear decal film with a view to doing some of my own decals. At the time I was going to try and do some 72 Sqn Tiger markings, but mine didn't work. :(

    Does anyone have any tips on what to use to print your pown decals? What type of printer is best and how do you protect them for the water dipping stage? Anyone got any suggestions?

    Roland - this may or may not help? Link

  4. Are we talking liquid polish here or wadding??? I use Brasso wadding and have done for 20 years plus - never had a problem. A tip passed on to me by Mr Taylor I believe. You must of course wash the plastic after polishing, but this effectively removes all small grade scratches.

    Try it Pete, you wont be disappointed and it lasts eons!

  5. Hehe :thumbsup:. Are you ex-RAF yourself Gary, seems so judging by the banter? :D And I seem to recall mention of 33sqn and Puma's sometime back.

    Am interested in joining myself...got a filter interview at the AFCO in a week and a bit, ooh err :closedeyes:

    Certainly am - man & boy :D the RAF refer to the Navy as Fish heads and the RN refered to us as Crabs (right, absolutely no PILE jokes ok). 230 squadron actually not 33, but close.

    Good luck with your interview - please let us know how you get on. :pilot:

  6. Another reason to let harden thoroughly is that if you want to use CA glue to fix the clear parts. If the Kleer hasn't cured properly the clear part will fog.

    Personally, I always use wood glue for canopies. Used sensibly, it does the job well, dries clear, and any excess is easily removed with a moist tissue without the danger of marking, unlike CA. Horses for courses though - (Admin horse emoticon please)

  7. The RAF and Navy have played silly buggers slightly with regards to 801 squadron, from a comment I read in AFM a while back. When the SHARs were retired and it was announced the FAA's squadrons were to fly RAF jets in the transition to the GR7, the Navy wanted to keep the identities of their squadrons intact, what with their Falklands heritage and all that, whilst the RAF didn't want to give away its Harriers completely to the Royal Navy, so despite all the talk of 'jointness' there was still tension between those in the RAF who saw chance to gain monopoly over fast jets, and those in the Navy who'd fight tooth and nail to keep the FAA squadrons alive, knowing full well they might get two new carriers and saw chance to gain control of a brand spanking new fleet of aircraft with it as well if there were still naval squadrons around!

    I read this too - apparently the RAF refused to allow "Royal Navy" titles to be used on the a/c. I find it really hard to accept this, as surely it could go higher and the RAF over ruled if this was the case? Makes more sense to me, that the RAF's objection would be aircraft rotation and taking care of squadron unit badges is relatively easy.

  8. Like that T8 Gary, very sharp - how did you paint it? I've always used Halfords car paints to do a gloss black finish (on my Hawk) since I lack an airbrush and brush painting gloss anything never works too well, but I find the paint always end up too thick.

    I very rarely use anything other than my airbrush but on the T8 because Halfords sprays are so dependable, I chose to spray straight from a can. I chose to go with a matt Black, because matt applies better than gloss, as you've pointed out is thinner, and less likely to fill in any shallow surface detail. Then I applied about 7 coats of Kleer with a nice broad soft brush, so no airbrush required.

    just need to decide who's twin stick to model -

    It has the be No 1 Squadron surely!

  9. Most of my clear parts, are dipped in Klear prior to masking.

    Just a word of caution for anyone that hasn't dipped in Kleer prior to masking. I always dip my clear parts more or less as soon as I start a kit, because you do need to allow the Kleer to dry and harden thorougly before masking. If you do as I did, and mask a few hours after dipping, it can pull off some of the Kleer. I discovered the hard way as usual.

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