Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)


Gold Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1,509 Excellent

1 Follower

About roma847

  • Rank
    Very Obsessed Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Filderstadt, Germany

Recent Profile Visitors

1,376 profile views
  1. Hello everybody, and with that I am back again to the paintwork, which seems to be a tricky chapter, which is why I have to deal a bit closer once again with the Spray(un)ability of my Vallejo paints. That's why I've turned back one year in my construction report once again, s. #1701, especially since I had experimented that time already with the thinning of the colors by adding Vallejo Thinner (71.061). Already that time I had noticed that the Vallejo Model Air paints were not sprayable, contrary to the opinion of my Airbrush Guru Heinz Wagner, what I had tested with his Drop method. According to this, a paint should be sprayable if the diameter of the color point of a drop from a drop height of 30 cm is between 11 mm and 14 mm, but what throughout was not the case. However, due to considerable health problems, he did not respond to my request that time, which is why I had left out the paint job at first. In the meantime I have studied a few articles and videos and come to the conclusion that the opinions regarding the sprayability are multifaceted, sometimes contradicting and quite confusing. In the process I have found among other things also this already mentioned video Thinning and spraying Vallejo Model Color and Model Air, from which I had hoped for some clarification regarding the theme Airbrush from Vallejo Model Air & Model Color. Therein one is also of the opinion that no dilution would be required for Model Air, at best 1-2 drops per cup. In contrast, for the generally thicker Model Color a dilution (1:1) with Vallejo Thinner is recommended, i.e. 10 drops Thinner to 10 drops of paint, which can be mixed inside the cup. In addition, one should occasionally clean the nozzle cap during the airbrush painting with a Q-Tip with Vallejo Cleaner to prevent clogging. In order to reduce the risk of clogging during longer airbrushing, one could also add a drop of Vallejo Drying Retarder, which will delay the drying of the paint a little. For this reason, Retarder is more likely to be used for wet-on-wet techniques with Vallejo Model Color with a normal brush on the pallet, which should also reduce the skin formation on the pallet. Then Vallejo also still offers the medium Flow Improver, by which the flow properties of their paints Model Air and Game Air is improved with just a few drops. This medium also ensures that the paint adheres less to the needle when spraying or that the drying of the paint on the needle is delayed, which is particularly recommended for airbrush guns with a nozzle size < 0,3 mm. So far so good. In order to find out why the Vallejo paints in my test airbrushing of the IT-dummy led to the gun being clogged, it was necessary to test the sprayability of the paints again with the Drop method. And as one can easily see in the following image, the diameter of the color dots were both in the used Model Air (71.077), on the right in the picture, and especially in the Model Color (70.981), on the left in the pic, below the minimum diameter of 11 mm required for sprayability, which is why I need not be surprised about the clogging of the gun. Then I also tested my other Vallejo paints, which has led to similar negative results. Therefore I have to dilute my colors before the next airbrush by adding Vallejo Thinner and a few drops Flow Improver so that the diameter of the color dots is in the range of 11 - 14 mm, which hopefully will make them better sprayable than before.
  2. Hello everybody, after the more or less successful test airbrushing of the IT Dummy I have now removed an old burden. And that was the broken tip of the LO2 Tank that fell off the table a long time ago, that's the Lightning rod at the top of the Nose cone cap. The tip on the Revell-ET of my friend Thomas Emberger, who died in 2017, is approx. 3,5 mm long. But since I remembered a drawing from the George Gassaway collection, I was able to get the exact dimensions from it. Source: georgesrockets.com (George Gassaway) Thereafter the Length is 14,01'', i.e. 2,5 mm (1:144), and the Diameter is 6,89'', and accordingly Ø 1,2 mm (1:144). As one can see, this tip has a cone at the front, whose dimensions L=0, 4 mm, Ø 0,5 mm can be forgotten for a total length of 2,5 mm because it should very hard to get it done. First I've removed the stub on the cap and gradually drilled it out to Ø 1,2 mm. And coincidentally there is a round rod from Evergreen with exactly this diameter that I used. Then I've sanded off a 2,5 mm long tip at a slightly longer piece, and glued it into the cap. And this is what the tentatively attached cap with tip looks like on the LO2 Tank, which is now complete again. But I can't glue the tip in yet because I still need the opening for the priming and painting of the tank, for which it is impaled again on the bamboo stick.
  3. Thanks Mark for your nice compliment, okay, this snapshot looks very promising, but we haven't yet seen the end of the matter, we say in Germany. The entire ET is already still a little bit longer than this IT Dummy, but I'm very confident, that I can do it. Therefore I have to deal with the sprayability of the Vallejo paints even more closely and test some options with Vallejo Thinner und Drying Retarder, because with a failed paint job one can ruin everything. And this risk I definitely want to avoid, because the previous effort was simply too great. Meanwhile I've found this great video Thinning and spraying Vallejo Model Color and Model Air which I have to study, that gives me hope to understand everything a little bit better.
  4. Thanks uilleann, meanwhile I know that I can also implement my initially dreamy idea of the admittedly tricky SOFI Texture fairly realistically, what pushes me further, ever further, ever further ...
  5. Hello everybody, meanwhile I have airbrushed the primed Intertank-Dummy, which has been sanded on one side, in order to assess both the effect of the floured Tape structure and that of the sanding effect of the flour layer, whereby there were problems with the sprayability of the selected Vallejo Model Air 71.077 - Wood, which surprised me. But everything one by one. First a look at my airbrush equipment, this is the Compressor with pressure tank (3 liters) and the high-quality Triplex Spray Gun. First I've sprayed a few tests, on the left with the Vallejo Model Air 71.077, and later also with the Vallejo Model Color 70.981 Orange Brown. The color difference to my former samples is immediately noticeable, in which the same color sample of the Intertank looked much darker. The basis at that time, however, was the somewhat modified color pattern, as one can see on the homepage of the provider, which actually looks a little different. But also the color of the test-drops at the time looked stronger, which is why the sprayed Airbrush color is ultimately decisive for the assessment, which in turn also depends on the thickness or covering power of the layer, which I will have to pay more attention to in the future. Then I've started airbrushing the IT Dummy and was surprised when, despite the filled color cup, suddenly there were no color spray, and the gun was clogged and had to be cleaned completely. Although the IT area shown has not gotten evenly much color, the result for the assessment of the SOFI Texture effect is completely sufficient for now, with which I can be quite satisfied, because it comes very close to my previous ideas. In my opinion, the pattern structure looks quite realistic and is also gently adapted to the scale. This is an image from a distance of approx. 30 cm, on which one can only just see the texture. On this comparison of the macro shots, one can see that the half that has been slightly sanded after priming (top) looks a little more pleasing, which is why I am still considering whether the effort of smoothing is really worth it, but probably already. And here is my photo montage at that time with the now painted tank area, which in my opinion fits the ET-8 original photo pretty well, or what do you mean? Now I've just to take a closer look at the problem of the lack of sprayability of my Vallejo colors and test them once again first.
  6. Hello everybody, after the Flour coating had dried through long enough, I carefully brushed off the excess flour. While the result on this side looks perfect, on the other side there were some strange unevennesses that I didn't like it. There was probably too much spray adhesive on it, or I had pressed the flour on too hard, which is why I've tried to gently flatten these areas with the abrasive sponge, and then to slightly deepen the grooves between the strips again with a needle. Let's see what these places will look like after the priming, maybe I have to sand back everything anyway a littlee bit before painting, which I will still test on the Intertank Dummy. But this looks already better again, and on the Original Tank (ET-8) not all places look the same too. Speaking of the original tank, I should have had a closer look at it beforehand, then I would have noticed that the Nose Cone area at the top, immediately after the 12th Ice Frost Ramp, was applied as Closeout and is therefore smooth. Quelle: forum.nasaspaceflight.com (Jester) Therefore I carefully removed the flour layer there again. Now I will airbrush the primed Intertank-Dummy to be able to assess the effect with (above) and without smoothing of the flour layer (below), after which we're smarter then.
  7. Hello everybody, after the LH2 Tank was floured, it was now the turn of the LO2 Tank and first waited for his demasking, which was done quickly. Then the rear, already floured tank was taped, and the ET impaled onto the bamboo stick for flour coating. And then I went back to the flour cellar, only this time with reversed arrangement of the holding jig, since I am right-handed. Afterwards the warmed spray adhesive can was shaken vigorously again and the LO2 Tank was sprayed all around and dusted abundantly with the rice flour, which was pressed on with the fingers. The excess loose flour was then shaken off by tapping lightly. And so everything should dry properly before the remaining flour can be brushed off. Until then we still have to be patient a little bit.
  8. Thanks Brian, for this I'll look at my color sample tests from the last year once again and choose a suitable color, for the Intertank probably the Vallejo Model Air 71.077 (Wood). Then we'll have a look at, I'm curious myself ...
  9. Thanks uilleann, you're absolutely right, and that's why I'm going to do a test airbrush at my IT Dummy.
  10. Hello eberybody, in the meantime I had wanted to make the priming of the Intertank Dummy, wherefore I had already prepared everything in the next room. But somehow the hint of a friend in our German Raumcon Forum regarding the "furry" appearance of the tape spiral did not wanted go out of my mind ... And then I suddenly got the idea with the fine Tamiya Sanding Sponge Sheet, with which one could perhaps mitigate this effect a little bit if one would gently sand the floured ET before priming and/or afterwards with a fine Sanding sponge ... And that then I tried it out with the Sponge 2000, which I had recently used, while the Sponge 3000 is still up one's sleeve. In order to be able to assess the effect better, I only slightly sanded half of the Dummy (right). After priming, unsanded half, sanded half, upper half sanded - lower half unsanded, unsanded half, sanded half. Probably the differences can only be seen more clearly at higher magnification, therefore here again the direct comparison, upper half sanded - lower half unsanded. It would also be conceivable to slightly sand the LH2/LO2 Tank only after complete priming and then to paint the entire ET by airbrushing. Whoever has the choice has the torment ... Definitive clarity one will only have after painting, but since I will do that with the airbrush that only creates a very thin layer, it will probably not change the final look of the SOFI texture much. I also think that with it I can get even closer to the original ET-8. Source: forum.nasaspaceflight.com (Jester)
  11. Hello everybody on Whit Monday, after the spray adhesive has certainly dried, I've picked up the soft long-haired brush and carefully brushed off the excess flour. This was followed by a gentle Peeling with a pointed tweezer, with which small lints were removed. And this is how the LH2 Tank now looks after the Flour coating. Here is a cut-out at higher magnification. I'm very satisfied with this result, so that the priming can follow now.
  12. And now, based on the hit by Silver Convention - Fly, Robin, Fly (1975) ... Dry, ET, Dry!
  13. Hello friends, now it was finally time and I was able to position the ET in the flour chamber for his countdown. The spray adhesive I had previously placed in a warm water bath and then shaken it vigorously again so that it can be sprayed easily. Then once again a short test grip with rubber glove and next door a few test sprays on a cardboard that were okay and gave green light. Afterwards, the LH2 Tank was sprayed under repeated turns and at the Aft Dome and then a photo was quickly taken. And then the flour dusting came in ... and it was generously applied all around with the sieve and lightly pressed down with the finger, while the ET was turned several times. Then it was enough with the flour dusting and the excess flour could be shaken off by tapping lightly. Then I went into my office and was able to have a close look at the preliminary result, which looks pretty nice so far. Now everything should dry properly before the remaining flour can be brushed off. And then the flour layer can be fixed with a first primer coat. Let's see what the result looks like after brushing.
  14. Hello everybody, in view of the occasion, here is a little side leap to the meanwhile almost unrecognizable Launch Pad 39A, on which in the meantime Elon Musk with his company SpaceX is at home and had planned a historic thunderbolt yesterday. Source: wikipedia.org Certainly, many of you, like me, waited eagerly for the start of the SpaceX Demonstration Mission 2 (SpX-DM2) last night, but due to the unfavorable weather conditions it had to be canceled and rescheduled to Saturday. Here is an image of the crew, Douglas Hurley (left) und Robert Behnken. Source: wikipedia.org Matching to this here is an image of my friend Scott Phillips with the DM-2 Commander Douglas Hurley with one of his legendary Hardwood Shuttle Tribute Models after the last Shuttle Mission STS-135, in which Doug Hurley participated as a pilot of the Atlantis. In the image on the right is Michael D. Leinbach, the then Shuttle Launch Director of NASA, including STS-135. Source: Scott Phillips So far, Scott "Shuttleman" Phillips has created more than 450 such one-of-a-kind handcrafted wooden shuttle models from a wide variety of wood types to reflect and honor the execellence and legacy of the Shuttle Program, and had let many of them signed by the shuttle crews at the time, of which he is very proud.
  15. Thanks Rich for your nice compliment and your confidence. Stay tuned and keep your fingers crossed. BTW, I look forward to your comeback with Launch 14 - Cooper's Rocket.
  • Create New...