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roma847

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  1. Hello everybody, the next step was filing down the lampshades, which had been cut off but still sitting on the toothpicks, to a length of approx. 1,8 mm, as well as the subsequent deburring. Since the small beads for protection and better guidance of the LED wires were glued in with Pattex-CA, I have put a Teflon foil underneath as adhesive protection again in the tried and tested way. The lampshades could only be held in a scissors tweezer to glue them in, and in this position could be carefully dabbed with CA on the inner edge with a acupuncture needle, and then to put it over the upright standing beads, what had to work at the first go, which, with a few exceptions, also succeeded. Then the shades were turned upside down and pressed onto the top with the end of the cutter holder in order to level out any minimal overhang of the beads. With that the preparation for the upcoming airbrushing was almost finished. After I had found my well-stowed needle ledge from the first paint job, only the paint residue on the tips had to be removed, otherwise the needles would not have fit through the beads. And in a small box of course I've kept the ferrules with plastic collars, which were now threaded onto the needles as spacers to prevent the shades from sticking to the Balsa ledge. Since it was already foreseeable at that time that I would have to paint further lampshade series, I had already marked further slots in wise foresight. And since I've prepared twice the number of umbrellas this time, I only needed to expand the needle ledge accordingly and found and used both the pins and ferrules that were used at the time. Now only the shades had to be threaded onto the needles. In order to avoid a later light emission upwards, I brushed the shades with black paint again as I did back then. Although the autofocus of my digicam already had its problems with this macro shot, I didn't want to withhold it from you, especially since you can see a bit more like that, at least I imagine it.
  2. Hello everybody, after longer being busy with different Crawler assemblies now a change of scene, and thus after several earlier attempts back to the lighting of the MLP to finally bring light into the darkness on the Side 1. After I finally had decided on the cabling interface between the Pad and Crawler at the Pedestal 6 next to the FSS tower, I've defined once again the last division of the LED circles more precisely, based on my STS-6 reference photo. Source: retrospaceimages.com (STS-6) And this is exactly how it looks on my MLP. So I've rummaged out the utensils from that time and tried to gradually recapitulate the handling steps, which took some time. At first, however, I proceeded rather naively, held the toothpick with the impaled ferrule in my right hand, held the tip in my left hand with tweezers and then carefully began to separate with a slight advance, which initially led to some losses, Bang - up and away ... To avoid that, I then put a kind of collecting cage under the cutting disc and held the tip with a pair of pliers, which then worked better. Then I've searched my URL-Screenshot directory of my Building-report, which is meanwhile 120 pages long, and came across my Separation technique from the previous year, which had proven itself, because it was much more solid, but unfortunately no longer in my mind ... Back then I had clamped the toothpick with the impaled sleeve in a small vise, held the tip of the sleeve with pliers, and then carefully pushed the vise towards the cutting disc, which worked well. After the separation, the sleeves must then be deburred by carefully sanding. Then a small bead (Ø 1,3 mm x 1 mm) is glued with CA into each of the shades for better guidance of the LED wires, what I'm going to do next. As a lesson from this dilemma, I have meanwhile begun to add matching keywords to my URL-Screenshot directory to create an smart Report-Index, what should need some time, so that I can directly search for it in future research and get to my goal faster. After painting the 20 lampshades required for the Side 1, the LED wires are threaded into them, followed by gluing the LEDs in the shades with Bondic UV adhesive and thus sealed at the same time. Together with the appropriate dimensions I then send them to my friend Arno, who will then professionally solder up the 4 LED circles, which I can then lay and test on the Side 1.
  3. Hello everybody, in keeping with the last images of his 3D models, here is an interesting note from my ARC friend Joe, who said that this somehow reminds him of an AT-AT. Since I'm not a direct Star Wars Fan as an older semester, I first had to find out who/what was meant by that, but which my son was able to explain to me quickly. This is The All Terrain Armored Transporter, which many of you are likely to know ... Source: starwars.com And I have to say, as far as the top part is concerned, the thing actually bears some resemblance to that Crawler Gear Case ... After that I've immediately returned the favor and thanked him with this image for his great work so far, which caused a sensation in the ARC Forums.
  4. Hello everybody, here are some more images of my ARC friend Joe from trying on the 3D models of the Gear case and the Propel motor. Sources: ARC Forums (crackerjazz) And as one can see, both assemblies fit together perfectly. How could it also be otherwise, after all, Mischa Klement, the creator of the ingenious Crawler Paper Kit (1/96) has worked on his project approx. 10 years, which would once again prove that everything takes time, true to the saying: Good things come to those who wait!
  5. Thanks Rich for your nice words. Let's wait and see what Shapeways is thinking about the 3D models ...
  6. Hello everybody, my friend Joe (crackerjazz) was very hardworking and has now completed the 3D Modeling of the Gear case, which I would like to present here in some images. Sources: ARC Forums (crackerjazz) Without exaggeration, his model has become absolutely perfect, which is largely due to the fact that he, like me, with the Truck 3D PDF and the Outlines PDFs by the ingenious LUT designer Mischa Klement (MicroArtwork) were able to fall back on perfect reference material, which was an invaluable advantage. Now we have to see which details we may have to modify so that Shapeways can also print the model.
  7. Hello everybody, I can tell you, this measly Part 23 of the fan unit really has it all. To get the required thickness (2,4 mm) of the rounded part, I first transferred the outline on a Styrene strip (1,4 x 5 mm) and filed it to the final shape, which was quite tedious. The second disk I transferred to a strip (1,0 x 5 mm), which was shortened by the upper side slant, because there I've planned a triangular profile for the slant to the rear. After both disks had been glued and reworked, the triangular profile was glued on with a little overhang, which I then carefully wanted to punch off, but this failed because the part came loose. So I shortened this piece accordingly, but due to its triangular shape it could no longer be gripped with the tweezers for the gluing, which I've managed to do with a tape strip. After the slant has been carefully sanded, I was able to turn to the assembly of the front box, which has now also received the lower frame. After I had marked the position of the box on the front of the rounded part, the box could finally be glued, which was half the battle! The problem with gluing such small parts is always a stable fixation of the parts, without which it would not work. Now the only thing missing was the connection of the fan with the gear case, for which there is a small Platform (Part 25) on which a small Cylinder (Part 24, Ø 1,5 mm) is sitting, which is only connected to the fan, but not to the housing, what I only recognized with the aid of the ingenious Truck 3D PDF. This area is no longer visible after assembly, but it doesn't matter, that's how it should be. Source: MicroArtwork, Mischa Klement (cyana) After trying on the fan, the cylinder could then be glued to the back, followed by another try-on. Then the small platform was glued onto the cylinder, after which the entire fan unit was glued to the housing, with which the gear case was complete. After a successful last try-on, I then glued the Propel motor to its housing platform, with which the work is finally done, whose result completely satisfied me. With a little distance one can hardly guess the effort and sweat that this small assembly has costed ... BTW, my friend Joe (crackerjazz) has also found time again to continue with modeling of the Gear case and has posted another image of his 3D Model which shows that he's on a good track. Source: ARC Forums (crackerjazz) And so it can go on.
  8. Hello everybody, in the meantime I have started building the Fan unit (Parts 21-25), for which, as I said, at first I had a lot of respect, because the whole assembly is quite small and has an idiosyncratic and complicated shape, which is why I pondered for a long time about a workable solution that is still feasible, especially on my small scale (1/160). First I've started with the simpler-looking front box (Part 21) and tried to fold it in the classic way out of paper and glue it (left in the image), but quickly noticed that the tiny angled corners would let hardly be glued cleanly, which is why I discarded this variant. Then I glued the part onto Styrene (0,15 mm) and punched it out. But this Paper/Styrene variant has also proven to be too complicated and unsuitable, since exact edges were even more difficult to fold, and the glued-on paper began to tear and peel off, wherefore I haven't even used the prepared angles for the corners. But famously there isn't just one way of doing it, and that's why I have omitted the sloping corners in the 3rd variant. As already with the Gear case I've then again pierced the corner points of the paper template on Styrene (0,15 mm), traced with a pencil and then carefully punched out the part. Then I carefully folded the main edges and glued in small triangular profiles to support the gluing of the sloping side walls, what has proven itself again. Then the two angle strips could be glued into the front corners with sufficient overhang for handling, for which purpose the box was fixed again with super magnets. For gluing the other angle I had to change the clamping accordingly. Finally, the protruding parts of the angles were carefully cut off with the razor blade and the edges smoothed. Last but not least, I also still glued the inlet grid to the underside, for a better look. Now only the narrow edge strip around the grid is missing (Part 22, red arrows), Source: Micro Artwork, Mischa Klement (cyana) which I will glue later, when this box is connected to the tricky Part 23, which is next in line, because it would only interfere during the final assembly. Source: Micro Artwork, Mischa Klement (cyana) And for this idiosyncratically shaped part, which in addition to the lower rounding (Ø 4 mm) in the upper area is also still twofoldly slanted, I now have to come up with a special solution, because I consider making of the part provided in the paper kit to be hopeless due to its small size. But at least I already have an idea how I can scratch that thing.
  9. Thanks Mark for your nice compliments. As I've said to Rich, the problem is really my scale 1/160, which is actually too small for such crazy things, which is a real challenge for a halfway detailed replica that one has a tough time of it. But now that I've started, and so I somehow want to bring it to an end too, at any price. I just have to come up again with a clever solution, then I can make it.
  10. Thanks Rich, I fully agree with you, but with my small scale, I reach the limits of what is feasible with both paper and styrene ...
  11. Hi Rich, weird, but I feel the same way because this part 23 is small and has a very complicated shape that should be extremely difficult to handle when reassembling, especially on my small scale. Therefore, I want to steer a middle course by trying to fold and glue the front box made of Styrene (0,15 mm) like paper, but initially without the tricky angled corners, which I will then glue in again using my Stripes technique as angles. And the tricky rear rounded part of the blower together I will glue from two pieces of Styrene to get its thickness and fiddle it by hand to the final shape by filing. You have now built it from both Paper (1/96) and Styrene (1/72), can you say what was easier, or let's say less stressful?
  12. Hello friends, but in my euphoria I have now yet overlooked one assembly, namely this Fan unit (Parts 21-25), which looks formidable, but of course it shouldn't be missing. Source: Micro Artwork, Mischa Klement (cyana) Source: NASA And these are the parts required, Source: Micro Artwork, Mischa Klement (cyana) whereby the Part 23 looks a bit bizarre indeed, so that I have to figure out how I can best scratch it.
  13. Hello everybody, and therewith on to the Final Countdown! As one can see again in the following image, the substructure of the platform in the Paper kit is designed as a kind of plug-in connection, which gives the thin paper a certain stability which I've denied myself because Styrene (0,2 mm) is stiff enough and slitting the small parts would be difficult. Likewise, the Cladding (Part 7) should be slotted and the Platform supports (Parts 4/6) should be inserted into these slots and glued, which appeared for me unnecessarily complicated. Source: Micro Artwork, Mischa Klement (cyana) That's why I've modified the supports and cut out the contour of the curve so that I could glue it directly onto the cladding. With the 7 Mini disks (Ø 0,6 mm x 0,2 mm) I want to try to indicate the screws on the small side claddings. After the 4 small plates for the motor feet were glued to the platform plate, this had to be fixed again accordingly for the secure gluing of the supports, with which the platform was completed. Then the platform could be glued to the case cladding. And then came the exciting moment of trying on the Propel motor on the platform, whose drive shaft, to my surprise, fitted perfectly into the socket of the dome-shaped attachment. On this image one can also nicely see the 3 screws on the base of the small cladding. And if I now calmly make me realize the size of this imposing couple once again next to the Euro Cent, then a small feeling of satisfaction and also proud of the result of my work creeps over me.
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