Jump to content

Graham T

Members
  • Posts

    3,211
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Graham T

  1. Last week I was in a local amateur musical production, since when I & about 25-30% of the cast of 30 or so have come down with Covid!  Two years I've managed to dodge it!  Two years!  Anyway happily I retired (early!) in the autumn so at least I'm able to take things easy while I recover.  Which brings me on to the 1/48 Kinetic Harrier & a couple of questions to enable me to make a better job of it than I did their Sea Harrier!  Firstly, I'm building an early 1970 GR1 of 1 squadron.  The instructions give white as the colour for the nose & main gear bays but I'm thinking they should be Light Aircraft Grey?  They also suggest that the intakes right back to the fan are the exterior colours (i.e., Dark Green/Dark Sea Grey) but once again I suspect LAG on so early an example?  The cockpit is called out in Dark Admiralty Grey which sounds right but could it have been black in 1969/70?  Finally the Matra pods; Kinetic have moulded them with protruding rockets which I don't think is right?!  In any event they then tell you to remove the rocket tips by sanding & drilling anyway!  Don't fancy that, think I'll arm mine with bombs!  Answers to these questions or further general advise on the kit gratefully accepted!

  2. 10 hours ago, neilh said:

    one think I found with mine ( and I think discussed in anther thread here) is that the spare navigation lights on the sprue are much larger than the cut outs for them in the FB9 wing tips.  It was suggested in the other thread that the builder should cut a small section from each wing to accommodate the lights, and that the wings are marked on the inside faces to assist with this.  I had already sanded my clear parts to fit the wingtips so probably not accurate in my case.

    When I built mine as an FB5, I felt that the flat wingtips in the kit looked a wee bit TOO narrow, so I attached the FB3 tips & when fully dry, I cut/sanded them to the FB5/9 shape, at the same time cutting a notch for the clear landing light.

    • Like 1
  3. 2 hours ago, Ade H said:

    I was told by someone that the Tamiya retarded thinner gave him slightly better gloss than MLT in a back-to-back. If you happen to need a thinner anyway, it's good value per ml. I rarely use lacquers any longer, but I'm trying the LPs (only with MLT because it's what I have) on some car and bike bodywork and I found that I had to mix it thinner than I expected to match the glossiness of my usual choice of Aqueous with its own thinner. It's taking more coats to build opacity, which means more remedial fluff removal, but I do quite like it -- for a lacquer! I have a few of the metallics as well, but I need to buy a rapid thinner to get the best out of those. They were not very happy with MLT.

    Thanks.  MLT is?….

  4. Picked up some of this to give it a go on my HP Victor refurb.  The label is printed in Japanese.  Does it spray straight from the bottle?  If it needs thinning & for clean up I assume lacquer thinners?  Help on these questions & any other advice gratefully received!

  5. 4 hours ago, KingTiger435 said:

    Good luck! Will be interested in progress.

    also of course Adam Poultney has already found this thread, why am I not surprised:rofl:
    Considering the gloss white lacquer, guessing you are doing the same/similar white victor again?

     

    Levi

    Yep.  I've got another in the stash & may rob the decals from that one although I have ordered an Xtradecal sheet (X72271 but I've heard that some of the details on that sheet are a wee bit spurious!)

    • Like 1
  6. I built this a couple of years ago but have never been entirely satisfied with it.  I painted it in Humbrol satin white rather than gloss as I hate spraying gloss white, & it's never looked good.  With the price of the kit I thought I'd have a bash at a refurbishment, something I've never attempted before.  So after some careful removal of the undercarriage & doors, Blue Steel, the access door, airbrake petals & a couple of other small items, plus some addressing of some poor fit during the original build, it was a couple of hours with fine/very fine wet & dry to remove the decals & obtain a really smooth surface ready for a repaint.  I gave the glazing a really good polish, just hope that it hasn't collected too much crud on the inside from the sanding.  I've ordered new decals, pitot tubes & canopy masks & also a couple of cans of the new Tamiya gloss white lacquer, about which I've heard good things.  Here's hoping!!

     

    FE1B50E9-07B5-41D9-9F92-0FAA068CE73E 780C182D-02E1-4476-8950-C317C799488E

     

    • Like 8
×
×
  • Create New...