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Pascal, a great BRAVO! Ed

Ferrari D50 chassis 010 #22 Fangio/Castellotti pole position and 8th final result 1956 Italian GP:

...and now, finally, the pair of Ferrari completely built Ferrari 801 chassis 010 #6 Musso 4th in the 1957 German GP:

TYRES & WHEELS MFH did a very good job for tyres: they are a mix of turned wheels, p/e parts for the spokes and white metal central axle. Instead of following the steps of the instructions I suggest this way: the p/e spokes in the middle have a big circle or a small one: Take those with the big circle and glue together two by two; then, using the white metal axle (asterisk), end them pushing down: Do the same with the p/e spokes with small circle: Now it is possible to glue the central axle to the spokes. Before to those with a large circle and then to the other: Finally glue the turned wheel on both sides: The tyres too are very well done. The word "ENGLEBERT" is not a decal but it is in relief on the side of the tyre like TAM tyres, and it has to be painted Matt White: Tyres were sanded not too much to avoid to delete the tread and then washed to simulate wear and tear (left in the pic):

EXAHUST They are white metal and coupled 2 by 2. A little work to enlarge their ends: and a different painting from instructions. They suggest Black colour, while I painted a 1:1 mix of Gun Metal-Iron plus a final wash with TAM Weathering Master D and dry Matt Aluminium:

BODYWORK D50 has the whole body by white metal: whereas 801 has both resin and white metal: On the rear part of bodywork all the simulated rivets were changed with real rivets (0.4-0.7-1.0-1.2 mm) and the simulated holes were changed with real holes: On D50 the body did not fix very well at the upper arm of rear suspension, so some sanding work was needed: Moreover, paying attention to the pics of the time I doscovered that the rivets on the sides of D50 disappeared during the last races of the year, so they had to be sanded away: Those rivets were changed with others at the basis of the sides, while other rivets were added on the borders of the cockpit: Finally, on the bodywork of D50 another little change had to be done at the back of the sides and at the end of the exhausts, where the lower part of the chassis went out from bodywork:

Many thanks for your appreciations. Before proceeding a thing to be underlined: on the 801 steering wheels had 3 rays for most of the season, but from Monza onwards it had 4 rays: Another part which could be improved is the seat: resins for 801 and white metal for D50, but the originals were leather covered. I took the skin by an old wallet, reducing it tickness by removing its inside tessue. Then I covered the seats and the headrests: Before somebody say something about the dimensions of the electric wire I used for D50: YES it is a bit large but I used it to cover the mistakes I made glueing the leather... ;-)

Hi Warren, may be I did not explain too well. Both kits have those little tanks, but they are right for 801 only, whereas D50 had two big tanks on the side of the car: they were the mean feature of the car, separated on D50, connected to the body on Ferrari-D50. Different on the two cars was the dashboard: red for D50 aluminium for 801: One part of the kit which could be improved is the steering-wheel. That of the kit i a rounded white metal part with a central p/e, while the real car had a central aluminium part with wood up and down: So I sanded away the lower and upper part of the white metal steering (A), reducing it to a thin circle ( : Then I glued, up and down, some wood pieces, then sanded and rounded. As the real car some 0.4 mm holes were made where I put some 0.4 mm aluminium rivets. Finally I applied the circle with Ferrari logo and I painted wood with a couple of coats of transparent clear: After having prepared the steering colums, I glued the steering wheels in place:

Thanks all, particularly to Kiwidave4 for his explanation. COCKPIT Plate, pedals and tunnel for the tube which runs from engine to gearbox are all p/e parts: here they are mounted but not yet washed. Few words on the tanks on each side of the cockpit. They have some p/e parts to simulate rivets (red arrow)...but I preferred to make holes and put 0.4 mm rivets: 801 had these two tanks (plus another one behind the driver): Whereas D50 had two big tanks on each side of the car, invisible from cockpit; without tanks it remains a great space not present in the real car: so I made two panels with an aluminium sheet:

To finish the front of the cars it's time to fit the radiators (a little different on the two cars): and the engine trumpets with their meshes: Here D50 and 801 together: Finally a back step to finish the rear suspension. Here the whole p/e parts, then glued together: Rear suspension was mounted OOB: the upper and lower arms before and then the rear spring:

FRONT SUSPENSION This is different on the two models. This is that of D50, with the whole p/e parts of the spring, before and after glueing: Now instructions say to fit these parts to the chassis (red arrows): For their right positioning I suggest to use the upper arm to keep them in position: Meanwhile brakes were prepared: they are white metal + p'e parts. All were painted with a 1:1 mix of Gunze Gun Metal and Iron: Finally brakes could be added to the front suspension: This is the front suspension of 801 already finished:

Thanks to Warren for his interest to this building. Go to the front part of the car. These pics of the time show the D50 (Ferrari version) and 801, respectively: as you can see, the engine and its ancillaries are more or less the same: so I'll show you the mounting of an engine, underlineing when a difference. Here the engine block, painted Alclad Matt Aluminium (then washed with Gunze Smoke and dry black oil colour); rivets on the heads are those of the kit: Wiring for spark plugs is into this tube, where holes are virtual: so I made 0.4 mm holes (up in the pic) Then I cut two black wires (two for each side) for the connection to the distributor: meanwhile I prepared the thinner wires for the spark plugs: then I glued them in their position: moreover I cut some little black wires which I glued at the end of the previous wires, towards the engine: Finally, all the wires were connected to the tube shown before: On 801 only there were two other tubes (red arrows), which were Grey and NOT Black as the instructions said:

Hi guys, happy new year to all of you. After a period of my real work with very few time for modeling, in which I opened/closed some box of kit, finally I resolved to make a couple of ancient Ferrari, which I named "Mother & Son" (like an old song of Cat Steven: "Father and Son"): Ferrari D50 and Ferrari 801. After the death of Alberto Ascari in 1955, Lancia decided to retire from competition and sold out D50 to Ferrari: side pontoons disappeared and became part of the bodywork. Thanks to this model, JM Fangio obtained his 4th World Championship in 1956. In 1957 D50 evolved into 801 (8 for the number of cylinders, and 01 for Formula 1): side pontoons completely disappeared and the tanks were divided into three smaller tanks (two on each side of the cockpit and one behind the driver); the power of the engine increased and at the front the suspension was changed with that of 555 Supersqualo. Despite new drivers such as Musso, Collins and Hawthorn no victory was achieved while Fangio, now at the wheels of Maserati, obtained his 5th World Champioship. The kits are 1/20 MFH: K049C for D50 and K236 for 801. For D50 I realized the chassis 010 which obtained pole position and 8th as final result at the 1956 Italian GP, with Fangio/Castellotti #22. For 801 I realized the chassis 010 which obtained the 4th as final result at the 1957 German GP, with Musso #6. Both kits are very well done and they could be mounted OOB...but some changes were done to improve the realism. The steps of mounting are the same for both cars: where they are different, it will be mentioned in the WIP. First step of mounting is the chassis, otherwise it is impossible to go on with the other parts. Even if instructions say to paint the chassis with Gull Grey, I preferred to use Humbrol 165 Medium Sea Grey since it better matches the original colour of the chassis: Instructions now suggest to make gearbox with the axles and the tube of the chassis: but with no reference points it is impossible to achieve a right positioning of these parts: so I preferred to glueint the gearbox only to the chassis, after having enlarged its plaques ( : then axles and tube could be glued in the right way:

First version of finished project: But I was not satisfied to leave the car "opened": so I sanded the inside of the cockpit surrounder and, even not fitting very well (due to the sides of the seat), here the final version of the finished M7A:

ENGINE COVER No problem for this piece (here with 3 rivets for each side added): Pay attention to the difference between practice: and race, where the rear "aerofoil" was sorther and smaller: After painting with ZP, sanding and clear coating: Dzuzfastener were added + p/e parts for the rear aerofoil; the rivets are 0.8 by Hiro. COCKPIT SURROUNDER Like the real car, the windscreen was keep in place by rivets. So I made hole in the same position, making a fitting test: Then the cockpit surrounder was painted with ZP, sanded, decalled and clear coated; moreover dzuzfastener were added: Instructions say to paint windscreen with a mix of 50+50 clear blue+clear green: for me it is too dark. I made some test with different % and finally I resolved to clear green 5 + clear blue 2: I seem that pics show a darker windscreen colour but "live" it matches well the real one. Finally the rear mirrors were put in place. Very well done by Hiro: each mirror has a withe metal piece + p/e for mirror + p/e for the plaque inside the windscreen:

THE NOSECONE This is the Hulme's nosecone with little flaps tested during '68 Belgian GP practice: Bruce did not use fins but 4 little "device" (2 for each side) both in practice and in race: Moreover, on the right side only, there was a "NACA" duct. Therefore, on the nose of the kit, the space for the fins have to be closed: Instead of putty I inserted a very thin plasticard sheet, then sanded: Note the NACA on the right side, well done by Hiro. Then the nose was painted with ZP, sanded, decalled and clear coated: Moreover, dzuzfastener were added and the interior of nosecone painted with semigloss black. Finally, the mesh (painted and washed) was added:

Many thanks to Nick for his nice words. Now it's time to finish the cockpit. This is the Bruce's "office": This is the pieces of the kit for driver seat: Therefore the two parts covering the sides of the cockpit are missing. I started making a mask of the two sides, which were different since on the right there was the gear lever: Over the mask I glued half-rounded plasticard: Then I covered with a black tape: ...but I wasn't satisfied; moreover the piece was very hard to bend. Then I tried with Sinta-gom: ...but oncemore I wasn't fulfilled: both for the holes and for the thickness. Finally the resource was a "natural" product! First I glued together some rounded plasticard pieces, which were then bended to the shape of the cockpit side: Then I took the foil which covers the Yogurt: The foil was cut following the mask of before and then bended on the plasticard: Finally I glued a 0.4 mm lead wire to the borders: Doing the same with the headrest: Meanwhile I cut the "ears" of the seat: and, instead of the "ears" I put some putty which was then sanded: Then I painted with Humbrol 85 Satin Black, for me the best colour to simulate the leather, washing with Gunze H77 Tire Black: Finally I put some 0.7 Hiro Flat Rivets like the real car: Now all the pieces are ready to be placed into the cockpit: May be it is not just the same of the real car but I seem it is better than the Hiro one. The problem will be when I'll have to put the cockpit surround!

TYRES/WHEELS This is Bruce at the 1968 Belgian GP: Hiro captured very well the shape of tyres & wheels. Decals are of the kind to put on the surface and the put a drop of water over them: Then a couple of Alclad matt clear coats: Remember to put decals on both sides of the tyres: Spokes were painted with a mix of Gun Metal + Matt Black, nuts Matt Aluminium, while the chrome part of the wheels were washed with Gunze Grey Smoke very much diluited: The air valves of the kit were white metal pieces, difficult to sand. So I put each valve in the middle of the drill handle (I do the same with all the smallest pieces): Then the tyres were sanded and made dirty (in the same way as I did with the BRM). On the right the un-treated tyre to show the difference: Here the four tyres/wheels mounted on the car:

Many thanks for your compliments. The brakes. This is the real car at the front and at the rear, respectively: As you can see, both front and rear, the calipers had a connection for the balance of fluid and a connection to the bottles of fluid. Hiro made a lot of p/e parts that could be created with the caliper itself: But forgot those connections. These are those for the balance of fluid: and these are those for the connection to the fluid bottles: Here the connections mounted on the rear: The second pic shows also the black painting to simulate the holes of the discs, since they are an unique piece. This is the final result at the rear: These are the connections at the front: This is the final result at the front:

Many thanks Nick ...or Nuck Mounting of the rear anti-roll bar: The red arrows show the attachments that were painted matt aluminium (instructions say black). To complete the rear suspension, the rear arms (up and down) were added: To finish the mounting of the rear of the car, the cooling tubes: The connection of the gear: The washing of the exhausts with TAM weathering master D. Here the left only to show the difference: Here all the exhausts were washed: Finally they were covered with a light coat of Gunze Grey Smoke...but this will be seen in another post. The mesh for the trumpets of the kit are made by brass while those of the real car were metalic, therefore one could paint them or re-make with metalic mesh (Tameo) like me: Here the final result:

Finally, arrived the missing pieces, so I could try to finish this kit. Here the water tank M47 just arrived and after its mounting: It had two connections (red arrows): The clear yellow tube went to the rear "free": The other clear tube arrived from the number 1 which I mentioned in the previous post: In this pic of the real car al 1968 Spa, take a look at the rear axles: This are the axles of the kit: It means that those in my kit (Ver. were wrong: so I asked to Mrs.Hiro if she could send me those of the Ver.C. She was so nice and the different axles arrived yesterday (on the right of the pic): After sanding and polishing them, I made a wash with oil colour: Finally, after a coat with Gunze Grey Smoke, they were mounted:

Here the Hiro's instructions for the water tank (M34) and its connections (first pic) + all the devices which later will became the Lucas unit between the two trumpets lines (second pic), which were placed on a plaque on the roll-over bar until the Belgian GP: Here the pic of the original car at the 1968 Belgian GP where I put some number to make an easy understanding: Over the water tank (M34-instructions) there is a little hole and I wondered why; but looking at the real car I saw that there was a blue connector (1): so it has to be made. Comparing the Lucas devices of the real car with those of the kit, you can see that the last are a little semplified. First step: the piece M128+M91 has to be connected to the distribitor with a black wire. Moreover, there are two little wires which connect the M91 to itself (2). Finally, there is a band with two bolts to keep it in place (3): The pieces M129 and M130 are a little different from the real car (4): so I cut a little piece of the rear of M129 and I made two 0.30 holes; moreover a sanded away the top of M130 where I added another little piece from which started 4 very little black wires + a black wire which keeps in place the M130. Finally, number 5 of the real car doesn't exist in the kit: so I made it from a little piece of white metal + a band to keep it in place. Here the final resutl with the same numbers which I put in the pic of the real car: Some pics of the final result with no number:

Many thanks to AntPhillips & Nuck for their comments. PIPING Not too difficult, but a hard work to understand where the wires go to or come from. Here the Hiro's instructions which aren't wrong but too much over-simplified: I'd like to underline I'm building the B Version - 1968 Spa - Bruce McLaren. So might be that some piping/wiring could be different from the other versions. Here the Bruce's car at 1968 Spa: In this post I treat all the tubes you can see in this pic a part of the "X" tube which will be fitted when will arrive from Hiro the water tank which wasn't into the kit box. The oil circuit was as follows: warm oil from Engine (OUT) to Radiator Left (RL) then from Radiator Right (RR) to the Oil Tank (OT) finally, from OT to the Engine again (IN) (NOT IN THE KIT) The Oil Tank (OT) was connected to the Oil Reservoir Tank (ORT): The connector of tubes 1 and 2 has to be built, since it is "double": so I glued a little one to the biggest connector. Tube "2" went to the front of the engine. Tube "1" went free on the right side of the gearbox (NOT IN THE KIT) Finally, this is an "internal oil circuit" which Hewland introduced at the end of 60s (NOT IN THE KIT):

Before going on with the engine, I finally changed the pedals. First I sanded what is not necessary: Then I re-made the pedals: After having glued the cylinders in place, I made the wirings for the injectors. Here a pic of the time (Bruce at the 1968 Nederland GP): As you can see the yellow wires were covered by black wires, so I did the same after having sanded the yellow wires: Then I added the wires for the spark-plugs: Now the engine is ready to be fitted to the main body. Before I enlarged the holes of the plaques: Then I glued the engine to the body but...surprise: The plaques of both sides were too short and did not arrive to the holes on the chassis where they could be fitted with a rivet. So I re-made the plaques of the right lenght:

THE ENGINE These are the pieces of the engine, which Hiro made with little differencies as usual: I mounted most of the engine OOB, but there are some pieces I'd like to show you since, in my opinion, some were not necessary and other could be done in a different way. For example these pieces... would be done together with the cam-covers (as usual): while the other you can see in this pic will be covered by the cam-cover and nobody could see anymore...so I didn't use them. These are the cylinders and the injectors: I re-made the tube of the injectors with a 0.8 Hobby Design stainless steel tube: Then I enlarged the inside of them: Finally I cut the head (in the middle of the pic); on the left the discarted tube: This is the final result: The new tubes were painted Matt Aluminium, the nuts Semigloss Black, while the rest of the injector Gunmetal. Here is the piece where cylinders will be glued: The right end was done with 3 p/e parts + a spring which I re-made. This is the final result after painting with Gunmetal: